2015 5.7 (NOT) timing issue **Rebuild**

[ShadeslayerTD]

Good afternoon all

I have a 2015 5.7L that used to be a police truck. So it has some hours on it. It was running fine and then it all of a sudden had multiple cylinder misfires and a cam out of sync with crank code. Changed all the plugs and coils and put a new cam position sensor in. Cam code went away but still multi cylinder misfire. Pulled the timing cover after surfing the forums for awhile. When I lined up the timing marks at 12 for the cam and 5:45 for the crank, this is where the chain was.




I pulled off all the timing chain comps, checked the pin on the cam and looked over the parts. It all looked well enough. Put it all back together with the timing marks where they are all supposed to be. Turned it over a dozen times and timing marks never lined up again. This is where they are now.

Is the Phaser shot? or am I missing something all together? Thanks all

 

[Dirty_white_boy]

If you set the timing right before you put the chain on ( #1 piston at tdc and and cam phaser mark a 12 o'clock) that is most important. If you put your chain on right with it set up this way you'll be fine. The marks on the chain will line up again but only after about forty full revolutions roughly. I know this can throw people off. You keep cranking it will eventually line up again.

 

[Dirty_white_boy]

Here is a good watch

Gen3 Hemi timing. Correct way to time a 5.7 6.1 6.2 6.4 Dodge Hemi Engine. Cam install timing

Gen3 5.7 6.1 6.2 6.4 Hemi timing Cam install timing. Correct way to time your engine.

m.youtube.com

 

[ShadeslayerTD]

If you set the timing right before you put the chain on ( #1 piston at tdc and and cam phaser mark a 12 o'clock) that is most important. If you put your chain on right with it set up this way you'll be fine. The marks on the chain will line up again but only after about forty full revolutions roughly. I know this can throw people off. You keep cranking it will eventually line up again.

Well that's good to know. SO then I should be good on timing and didn't need to spend the $300 on the timing kit. Now I'm really wondering what's causing the cylinder misfire.

 

[Ken226]

Well that's good to know. SO then I should be good on timing and didn't need to spend the $300 on the timing kit. Now I'm really wondering what's causing the cylinder misfire.

Pull the valve covers and intake manifold, and inspect the valve springs for any that are broken.

If no, rotate the engine with a socket on the harmonic balancer bolt and watch the valves. Check the range of motion and see if any rocker aren't moving, or aren't moving as far as they should.

Basically, check for broken valve springs and/or a flattened cam lobe.


Take a look at the VVT solenoid, for any metal shavings on the screens. If the "cam out of sync" code was the P0016, I believe that can be caused by a VVT solenoid that is bad, clogged or something. Also, look the VVT solenoid over real well and make sure it isn't some cheap aftermarket junk or counterfeit.

This is from a Ford F150, but if you see this you'll certainly find a flattened cam lobe and wrecked lifter:

 

[Barr2255]

Good afternoon all

I have a 2015 5.7L that used to be a police truck. So it has some hours on it. It was running fine and then it all of a sudden had multiple cylinder misfires and a cam out of sync with crank code. Changed all the plugs and coils and put a new cam position sensor in. Cam code went away but still multi cylinder misfire. Pulled the timing cover after surfing the forums for awhile. When I lined up the timing marks at 12 for the cam and 5:45 for the crank, this is where the chain was.


View attachment 552861

I pulled off all the timing chain comps, checked the pin on the cam and looked over the parts. It all looked well enough. Put it all back together with the timing marks where they are all supposed to be. Turned it over a dozen times and timing marks never lined up again. This is where they are now. View attachment 552862

Is the Phaser shot? or am I missing something all together? Thanks all

More or less the chain marks are irrelevant unless your rebuilding. I’m not serious… but don’t worry about them. Rotate the engine until cylinder one and cylinder six are top dead center. That insures the crank is in the correct orientation. The cam phaser mark at that point should be at 12 o clock. If it’s not then there is an issue. Timing these engines is very simple.

 

[jws123]

If it was a police ttruck that means it idled ALOT you 100% will hae a bad cam and lifters no question about that basically just expect it when you buy a police and or a fleet truck they never shut em off.

 

[Barr2255]

If it was a police ttruck that means it idled ALOT you 100% will hae a bad cam and lifters no question about that basically just expect it when you buy a police and or a fleet truck they never shut em off.

Agreed, if OP already had the phaser off he could pull the cam and check for worn out lobes. If on a serious budget, if only one lobe is damaged and the others are okay then he could get away with only pulling one head and replacing one cassette of lifters and the cam. Not the preferred way but can be done. OP lets us know your thoughts. We’re here to help.

 

[ShadeslayerTD]

This should explain a good bit thus far. I've pulled the valve covers and don't see any broken springs. I am off to the store to get a small pen magnet, the one I have is a little too big to get the rollers out of the head. I'll then pull the cam. I shouldn't have to pull the heads off? Right? Please tell me I'm right? haha

 

[ShadeslayerTD]

 

[Wild one]

View attachment 552980

This should explain a good bit thus far. I've pulled the valve covers and don't see any broken springs. I am off to the store to get a small pen magnet, the one I have is a little too big to get the rollers out of the head. I'll then pull the cam. I shouldn't have to pull the heads off? Right? Please tell me I'm right? haha

You need a new cam and lifters ,so you're pulling the heads anyways,as you can't remove the lifters with the heads on.
Generally Ma Mopar reconmends replacing the engine if the VVT solenoid is full of metal like yours is,but a few guys have got away with just replacing the cam and lifters and flushing out the engine,then doing several real short oil and filter change intervals after it's back together and running

 

[Ken226]

Bummer!

If it were me, I'd pull the engine and either replace it, or rebuild it.

If you rebuild it, strip the block bare and go through it with a fine tooth comb to make sure ever single oil port, hole and galley is completely clear of metal flakes.

 

[ShadeslayerTD]

**edit** Never mind. I have MDS. Not sure I want to go through getting a tune and what not to delete the MDS.

I don't have that much time or money! I wish I could.

Does my engine have MDS or just the VVT? I ask for the lifters.

 

[Wild one]

**edit** Never mind. I have MDS. Not sure I want to go through getting a tune and what not to delete the MDS.

I don't have that much time or money! I wish I could.

Does my engine have MDS or just the VVT? I ask for the lifters.

View attachment 552997

Do not buy those lifters,they have the worst rep for failing right out of the box.

 

[Ken226]

**edit** Never mind. I have MDS. Not sure I want to go through getting a tune and what not to delete the MDS.

I don't have that much time or money! I wish I could.

Does my engine have MDS or just the VVT? I ask for the lifters.

View attachment 552997

I know this isn't what you want to hear, but if doing this the cheapest way possible is your goal, then you should start searching for a salvage yard engine locally.

Aftermarket lifters, cams, etc will cost you doing the job twice. And with OEM parts the 2nd time anyway.

 

[Marshall]

Going cheap can be expensive.
Good luck to you .

 

[ShadeslayerTD]

Going cheap can be expensive.
Good luck to you .

Isn't this the truth. I was thinking about getting this kit. Anyone have some luck with it? https://www.amsracing.net/collectio...pcm-swap-for-2015-ram-5-7l-hemi-truck-engines

 

[Ken226]

That kit would be good to go, IF you use the Mopar lifters and Mopar cam.

But, before you put another cam and lifters in, it's critical that the block be completely and thoroughly flushed of metal particles, or replaced. When metal is present on that vvt solenoid, it means that it made it into the oil galleys.

Read post #9 for an indication of what happens if you leave even a little bit in the oil passages

Lifter issue for the 2nd time after 6 months - DodgeForum.com

4th Gen Ram Tech - Lifter issue for the 2nd time after 6 months - Hey Everyone, So back in September of Last year, I fixed my 2010 1500 that had a lifter issue. Cam was destroyed, lifter on cylinder #7 was seized, but everything in the engine looked fine. So Took apart the entire front end of...

dodgeforum.com

 

[J-13GTP]

The kit you listed doesn’t show either an oil pump or timing set. Honestly I wouldn’t do the MDS delete. It doesn’t fix the common lifter and cam failures these engines have. If your not rebuilding the entire engine just replace the worn out parts with stock replacements. Get a high volume pump for peace of mind and call it a day. Another thing to remember is a used engine could very well have cam/lifter failure. So I would at least check the cam and lifters before installing a used engine.

 

[Ken226]

Kinda a long video, but this is a 6.4 Hemi teardown after a cam failure.

It illustrates pretty well what the concern is when there is metal in the VVT solenoid, when he gets to the main bearings.

2015 Ram 2500 6.4L Hemi Engine Teardown. THIS IS WHY Replacement/Rebuilding Is REQUIRED! (Hemi Tick)

For parts go to www.Importapart.com or email us at [email protected] Use coupon code "Idocars" to save 10% site wide! Welcome to the channel! If this is ...

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