2015 5.7 (NOT) timing issue **Rebuild**

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ShadeslayerTD

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It's crazy to me that even big names like Comp Cams (Holly) can't make a decent lifter. The engine has been around for, what, 15 years. I guess I'll search around for the OEM ones. What do people use if they get a different cam? The Johnson ones?
 

Wild one

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It's crazy to me that even big names like Comp Cams (Holly) can't make a decent lifter. The engine has been around for, what, 15 years. I guess I'll search around for the OEM ones. What do people use if they get a different cam? The Johnson ones?
OEM lifters still have one of the best reps ,the Johnsons have a good rep from the guys that only use their toys for drag racing,but i've yet to hear of anybody putting a 100,000 miles on a set of the Johnsons,so there's not much info in how they last in a daily driver.
Supposedly Comp started making their own in house lifters about a year ago,but their own inhouse lifter still doesn't have a great rep. Before that they were farming them out
 

Yardbird

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Steve White Motors is a stand up Ram dealer. You can trust what they say if you decide to buy OEM from then.

Maybe call and ask about a reduced price for a first time order. They used to sell on Ebay, they may still do. I would check there first.

Their prices on Ebay are online prices through Ebay, and cheaprt than over the counter prices.
 
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ShadeslayerTD

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Thanks everyone, I'll check it all out. I still have a few before I have to get them.

On a separate note, if I decide to go with a different cam. Was looking at the Melling second stage, would I need different valve springs? When I rebuilt the SBC and changed the cam I needed different springs. I can't see anywhere that it says I do and I tried searching on here, without luck.
 

Wild one

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Thanks everyone, I'll check it all out. I still have a few before I have to get them.

On a separate note, if I decide to go with a different cam. Was looking at the Melling second stage, would I need different valve springs? When I rebuilt the SBC and changed the cam I needed different springs. I can't see anywhere that it says I do and I tried searching on here, without luck.
Get ahold of MMX / Matt Fikac at Moes or FRP they specialize in Mopar cams. Stay away from outfits that don't specialize in Mopar cams aka Comp / Melling etc.
Hunt up their phone numbers and actually talk to somebody,this buying off the net is for school children,man up and actually talk to somebody in the know
 
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ShadeslayerTD

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Just going to leave these here for ya'll to enjoy. I'm not sure if they are numbered correctly but I'm tired. Tomorrow we get to see what the crank looks like.
Cam 1_2.jpgCam 3_4.jpgCam 5_6.jpgCam 7_8.jpgLifters 1_3.jpgLifter 5_7.jpgLifters 2_4.jpgLifter 6_8.jpg
 
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ShadeslayerTD

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Crank is out. I don't think it looks bad, the bearings definitely have some marks but nothing too terrible. What do y'all think? 1000006059.jpg1000006060.jpg1000006061.jpg1000006062.jpg1000006063.jpg1000006064.jpg1000006065.jpg1000006066.jpg
 

Wild one

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Crank is out. I don't think it looks bad, the bearings definitely have some marks but nothing too terrible. What do y'all think? View attachment 554074View attachment 554075View attachment 554076View attachment 554077View attachment 554078View attachment 554079View attachment 554080View attachment 554081
I'd send it out for polishing. By the looks of it,it should clean up with just a polish,and not need turning,then slap new bearings in it and call it good for another 100,000+ miles. 2nd pic from the bottom those rod journals definitely need a polish
 
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ShadeslayerTD

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Finally got the stupid MDS solenoids out. Had to get a pair of extra reach needle nose and some pb blaster. These are in the bottom of the solenoid wells. They are strong magnets and not supposed to be that flower bloomed with metal dust, I'm guessing. They don't need to stay when I put the MDS plugs in?

1000006111.jpg
 

Sherman Bird

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Well that's good to know. SO then I should be good on timing and didn't need to spend the $300 on the timing kit. Now I'm really wondering what's causing the cylinder misfire.
Throwing parts at a "P0300" code, for some mysterious reason, is what many folks do. There is SO much diagnosis yet to do in order to figure out the problem, yet, a lot of guys must think that it is as simple as a few parts. I routinely get vehicles in my shop where the owner has had enough of the parts cannon. The 2 most frequent DTC's are P0300 and the 171/174 codes. The most expensive one was last year. The man drove 200 miles from Austin, Tx. to Houston for me to fix it. At the time he brought it in for those codes I mentioned, he had spent north of 4 grand. Bottom line? With a proper diagnostic strategy and following data, the fuel pump was the problem. Although he had replaced it in the preceding 4 grand, it was a factory clone/ counterfeit... bought on line. Yes, you are "good to go" (sic).
 
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