2018 Limited 1500 battery issues.

[corneileous]

Need is a matter of your own perspective and circumstance.

If you go out tomorrow and your truck won't start, will it me a major inconvenience or just a minor one?

If you have a family emergency and need to get somewhere fast, will you be able to grab the keys to a 2nd vehicle? Or will you have to spend time jump starting the truck?

The cost/benefit analysis for your own personal financial situation is best made by you, yourself, since you have the most relevant information.



My battery is an AGM from O'reilly's too and from the speed it rotates my engine while starting, is getting pretty weak. Purchased in Feb 2020, so given my location is a pretty good testament to the accuracy of the map above.

I feel like you kind of took that a little bit out of context. I certainly wasn’t trying to come up with an excuse not to buy a new battery, I was just more or less pointing out that it was kind of strange being that I had to jumpstart my truck yesterday afternoon and being that I only made one trip afterwards, came home, parked it the rest of the day and left it untouched- that this morning, it was very cold and it started right up. I was really thinking I was gonna have to jumpstart it this morning, but I didn’t.

 

[corneileous]

left side of your steering wheel has control buttons with arrows on it

using those arrows, in one sequence, you can bring up how much amperage your vehicle is putting out, as you drive.

I would think that if you watch that output & it is above 13 volts or amps, which ever it displays, & your battery drains down, it would have to be the battery that is bad, no matter what the auto parts store reads , ??

So, I just got in my truck to go to work today and I looked through the EVIC display screens and I didn’t see anywhere where it showed a digital read out of what my current charge voltage is so where is it at?

All I see is the big digital speedometer, the screen set up screen, the stored messages screen, the audio screen, trip A and trip B screens and the fuel economy screen and when you go to the vehicle info screen, all that shows is the tire pressure, the current state of my air suspension, transmission temp, oil temperature, oil life meter, engine hours and the gauge summary which only shows a digital readout of coolant temp, trans temp oil, temperature, and oil pressure.

 

[RamDiver]

Even regardless of what some manufacturers might include? I’m assuming you’re talking about battery manufacturers or are you talking about car manufacturers?


With all due respect, I can kinda understand that logic when it comes to a consumer, but even if a battery manufacturer that sells an AGM battery? I would sure like to hope they know their product and how they can be used safely…lol.

You do know how businesses function and make money, right?

There's a wee catchphrase known as 'What the market will bear'.

I can drive to upper-state NY this afternoon and visit Costco or many other retail outlets and find the latest and greatest technology in personal computers. And, it's not just computer equipment.

I did this very thing about 5 years ago. We in Canada were still seeing mechanical hard drives while in the US was all SSDs.

If I go to my local Costco, the computers are mostly what was seen in the USA last year.
The average Canadian consumer tolerates this BS but many have no clue.

It's known as, 'what the market will bear'.
Do you think the automotive manufacturing industry would ignore this opportunity?

True, but that’s hardly the same thing. In my humble little opinion, the only reason why that was is because some car manufacturers on certain brands were just slower to update to the newer technology but there’s a lot more to it when it comes to car batteries, I would think. Maybe I’m wrong.

For instance, we in the US & Canada have a very high vehicle theft rate yet the manufacturer-supplied security equipment included is very sparse and marginal in its functionality.

Cross the pond over to the UK and Europe, their theft rate is considerably lower but guess what?

Many of the same manufacturers we have here in North America include very advanced security systems with the vehicles sold in Europe. Fancy programmable devices that allow the end user to install personal PIN codes or configure and process of button pressings like some expensive after-market devices here.

Do you think that these same manufacturers are just a bit slow to update and include these same security features here in North America?

I’m not really trying to argue with you but put yourself in my shoes. I’ve got people like you telling me it’s OK and then I’ve read where other people say it’s not OK, that it could be a bad idea so again, put yourself in my shoes.

I get no royalties from new battery sales, I'm only here to slow down that ever-threatening senility from taking hold of my brain as I age.

I always put myself in the shoes of others while making recommendations and always look for the fastest, cheapest, and most reliable solutions.

My bias is heavily towards perfection and providing the best possible advice. My background is in Telecom and digital electronics, there isn't much emotion attached to physics or electronics.

I’ll probably get one of those testers someday because I’d like to have one but you know, being that my current battery only had a three year warranty and being that this is happening to it not even two months past it’s three year warranty, I’m probably just gonna buy a new battery anyways.

Replacing anything without proper diagnostics is using a parts canon approach.

I wouldn't replace anything without testing, regardless of the probability or because 25 others had success with the same action.

This is the only way in my mind but, your $ are your business.
Kind of the polar opposite from where you were commenting, put yourself in my shoes.

Now you're volunteering to spend $ without analysis. Interesting...

.

 

[Ken226]

So, I just got in my truck to go to work today and I looked through the EVIC display screens and I didn’t see anywhere where it showed a digital read out of what my current charge voltage is so where is it at?

All I see is the big digital speedometer, the screen set up screen, the stored messages screen, the audio screen, trip A and trip B screens and the fuel economy screen and when you go to the vehicle info screen, all that shows is the tire pressure, the current state of my air suspension, transmission temp, oil temperature, oil life meter, engine hours and the gauge summary which only shows a digital readout of coolant temp, trans temp oil, temperature, and oil pressure.

I think the EVIC on the diesel equipped trucks have this screen, but I don't think i've never seen it on a Hemi equipped truck.

You can use a multimeter across your battery terminals while the engine is running, or you can monitor the realtime voltage output using live data from AlfaOBD or a Bidirectional scanner.

 

[corneileous]

I think the EVIC on the diesel equipped trucks have this screen, but I don't think i've never seen it on a Hemi equipped truck.

You can use a multimeter across your battery terminals while the engine is running, or you can monitor the realtime voltage output using live data from AlfaOBD or a Bidirectional scanner.

Yeah, I just thought about that, I can use my little OBD 2 scanner while I drive to see what it’s charging at when I drive but two different times, the charging system’s putting out over 14 volts. Not sure what it’s putting out as I drive.

 

[corneileous]

You do know how businesses function and make money, right?

There's a wee catchphrase known as 'What the market will bear'.

I can drive to upper-state NY this afternoon and visit Costco or many other retail outlets and find the latest and greatest technology in personal computers. And, it's not just computer equipment.

I did this very thing about 5 years ago. We in Canada were still seeing mechanical hard drives while in the US was all SSDs.

If I go to my local Costco, the computers are mostly what was seen in the USA last year.
The average Canadian consumer tolerates this BS but many have no clue.

It's known as, 'what the market will bear'.
Do you think the automotive manufacturing industry would ignore this opportunity?




For instance, we in the US & Canada have a very high vehicle theft rate yet the manufacturer-supplied security equipment included is very sparse and marginal in its functionality.

Cross the pond over to the UK and Europe, their theft rate is considerably lower but guess what?

Many of the same manufacturers we have here in North America include very advanced security systems with the vehicles sold in Europe. Fancy programmable devices that allow the end user to install personal PIN codes or configure and process of button pressings like some expensive after-market devices here.

Do you think that these same manufacturers are just a bit slow to update and include these same security features here in North America?




I get no royalties from new battery sales, I'm only here to slow down that ever-threatening senility from taking hold of my brain as I age.

I always put myself in the shoes of others while making recommendations and always look for the fastest, cheapest, and most reliable solutions.

My bias is heavily towards perfection and providing the best possible advice. My background is in Telecom and digital electronics, there isn't much emotion attached to physics or electronics.




Replacing anything without proper diagnostics is using a parts canon approach.

I wouldn't replace anything without testing, regardless of the probability or because 25 others had success with the same action.

This is the only way in my mind but, your $ are your business.
Kind of the polar opposite from where you were commenting, put yourself in my shoes.

Now you're volunteering to spend $ without analysis. Interesting...

.

I generally don’t have that approach, throwing a bunch of parts at something hoping that one will stick, but my closest harbor freight is almost an hour away and if my battery’s life expectancy is only about three years and if that’s how long the warranty period is for, in this particular case, why worry about testing the battery? And again, I was merely only stating that it was kind of strange that after all that’s happened, my truck fired up this morning without issue even though there’s already been two times within two weeks under very strange occurrences that I had to use my jump starter to start my truck.

But then again, as I write this, would I really be having the same problem if I had an older truck that did not have that battery sensor and all that extra stuff that an older truck would not have? It’s just like I was stating in my opening post when I all of a sudden out of the blue had to replace my factory battery without having any prior problems at all and for how long it took just to get my truck jumpstarted from another vehicle. If that would’ve been my old truck that happened too, I feel real confident in saying that if it was the one having to be jumpstarted, it would not have taken near as long to jumpstart it, but then again, according to what O’Reillys told me, that factory battery was toast, so I don’t know. This is the part I was talking about when I said, put yourself in my shoes because I’m being told to test it first before I deem it bad, I’m told to just go ahead and change it and I’m also being told that an AGM battery will work just fine on my truck when I’m also being told that unless my truck came with an AGM battery that I could be adding more problems.

 

[Ken226]

kind of strange that after all that’s happened

It isn't strange.



You said in your first post that, Quote: "I had been gone all week".

That is how weak battery's die. When they sit, cold, without having been charged by a running alternator all week, they get weaker and weaker.


Then later you drove it, and the alternator charged it. It started the next day, because it had just been charged by the alternator, the previous day.

That all makes perfect sense if i've read everything correctly.


The next time you leave it sitting for a few days, you'll be jump starting it again. The more time goes on, the shorter that period of time will get.

 

[corneileous]

It isn't strange.



You said in your first post that, Quote: "I had been gone all week".

That is how weak battery's die. When they sit, cold, without having been charged by a running alternator all week, they get weaker and weaker.


Then later you drove it, and the alternator charged it. It started the next day, because it had just been charged by the alternator, the previous day.

That all makes perfect sense.

That was in reference to when I still had the factory battery in this truck but, when I bought that O’Reilly‘s battery, I was still going out of town a lot and leaving my truck parked for a whole week at a time at my yard while I was gone but see, within the last almost couple years, I haven’t been doing that and have been going home every night so my truck really doesn’t sit that much.

Again, when I started having problems with this battery, this was a long time after treating my truck that way and like I’ve already said several times before, had it not been for what I did two weeks ago and what I did yesterday, I probably wouldn’t of had to jumpstart my truck. That’s what I’m saying is a little odd that even this morning, it started right up like there was no problem.

 

[Wild one]

So how long have you been using that AGM in your Ram? I’m not so sure I wanna use one now being that I’ve been doing some reading that says I shouldn’t use one unless my vehicle came with one.

I've had the same big ole Group 31 AGM in my truck since 2017,and it was still starting the truck perfectly fine and passing a toaster test load test when i sold the truck a bit ago.I never touched the charging system in my 14 ,to use an AGM battery,and the group 31 is quite a bit more battery then the little factory H7 battery is.
This is the battery that's been in my truck for 8 years.I do use a Noco charger to keep it topped up when the truck is parked for the winter.I also have 2 master disconnect switches,the bumper mounted one shuts the truck down when it's running to be NHRA legal,the one on the battery box kills everything,if the trucks not running,but won't shut the truck down if it's running,should slow up any thief,lol

General PDP Template

www.canadiantire.ca

General PDP Template

www.canadiantire.ca

 

[HEMIMANN]

I crawled down the wormhole deeper than I wanted to and found manufacturers don't tell us $hit anymore.

AGM requires - not desires - a different charge regime than flooded cell. AGM doesn't charge well below 14.7 VDC, but will cook above 15 VDC. Flooded charges @ 14.4 VDC, and can go much higher before cooking.

If the vehicle voltage regulator is dumb and can't tell what battery it's charging, or if it's smart but needs a software change, you risk never fully charging your AGM and getting stranded. I experienced this when I tossed an Odyssey H7 in my truck. It started getting low after less than a week of sitting without using the truck. And no, I don't leave the FOB near the truck. But the PCM pinger is always on, along with some other stuff in sleep mode, draining the battery.

I don't know if the flooded drains as fast, but the point is why spend extra on an AGM if you have to charge the damned things anyway due to all the electronics?

 

[Wild one]

I crawled down the wormhole deeper than I wanted to and found manufacturers don't tell us $hit anymore.

AGM requires - not desires - a different charge regime than flooded cell. AGM doesn't charge well below 14.7 VDC, but will cook above 15 VDC. Flooded charges @ 14.4 VDC, and can go much higher before cooking.

If the vehicle voltage regulator is dumb and can't tell what battery it's charging, or if it's smart but needs a software change, you risk never fully charging your AGM and getting stranded. I experienced this when I tossed an Odyssey H7 in my truck. It started getting low after less than a week of sitting without using the truck. And no, I don't leave the FOB near the truck. But the PCM pinger is always on, along with some other stuff in sleep mode, draining the battery.

I don't know if the flooded drains as fast, but the point is why spend extra on an AGM if you have to charge the damned things anyway due to all the electronics?

Isn't the purpose of the IBS sensor to keep either an AGM or flooded wet cell properly charged.I was under the impression it was added in 2013 so that it allowed both styles of battery,but maybe i'm misunderstanding it's purpose

 

[corneileous]

I crawled down the wormhole deeper than I wanted to and found manufacturers don't tell us $hit anymore.

AGM requires - not desires - a different charge regime than flooded cell. AGM doesn't charge well below 14.7 VDC, but will cook above 15 VDC. Flooded charges @ 14.4 VDC, and can go much higher before cooking.

If the vehicle voltage regulator is dumb and can't tell what battery it's charging, or if it's smart but needs a software change, you risk never fully charging your AGM and getting stranded. I experienced this when I tossed an Odyssey H7 in my truck. It started getting low after less than a week of sitting without using the truck. And no, I don't leave the FOB near the truck. But the PCM pinger is always on, along with some other stuff in sleep mode, draining the battery.

I don't know if the flooded drains as fast, but the point is why spend extra on an AGM if you have to charge the damned things anyway due to all the electronics?

So then, how are people claiming they can use these style of batteries in vehicles that never came with them and supposedly not have any problems? I’m not at all arguing with you because I purely don’t know, I’m just simply asking the question and I’m kind of like what wild ones said being that these trucks have that buy batteries sensor on them, I haven’t yet thought about that, but being that he brought it up, that would make sense to me.

 

[Ken226]

So then, how are people claiming they can use these style of batteries in vehicles that never came with them and supposedly not have any problems? I’m not at all arguing with you because I purely don’t know, I’m just simply asking the question and I’m kind of like what wild ones said being that these trucks have that buy batteries sensor on them, I haven’t yet thought about that, but being that he brought it up, that would make sense to me.

That's what was in my 2013 back in Feb 2020 when I replaced it, so that's what I replaced it with.

 

[turkeybird56]

Isn't the purpose of the IBS sensor to keep either an AGM or flooded wet cell properly charged.I was under the impression it was added in 2013 so that it allowed both styles of battery,but maybe i'm misunderstanding it's purpose

AS I understand it

 

[turkeybird56]

So, I just got in my truck to go to work today and I looked through the EVIC display screens and I didn’t see anywhere where it showed a digital read out of what my current charge voltage is so where is it at?

All I see is the big digital speedometer, the screen set up screen, the stored messages screen, the audio screen, trip A and trip B screens and the fuel economy screen and when you go to the vehicle info screen, all that shows is the tire pressure, the current state of my air suspension, transmission temp, oil temperature, oil life meter, engine hours and the gauge summary which only shows a digital readout of coolant temp, trans temp oil, temperature, and oil pressure.

OK, Here U go: On yer Limited you have THE 7" Premium EVIC Screen. Here is the screens you should see: Start at Big MPH Screen. Hit Left side steering wheel (SW) controls down (1), then you will see whatever screen was previously viewed. Scroll left/right till you see Gauge Summary displayed. Now you go (1) to the Left and you should see: Battery Voltage. I do not have the order exact as I had to shrink the pics size to a viewable segment on my other PC, as I do not have a viable program on this new PC I am on now: But as you go right/left you will see the screens depicted below after you go down (1) from MPH display.

ADDED: Just FYI: When you first get in truck and start and look at Trans Temp: You will see it will be almost the same as the outdoor temp displayed in your Temp on your UCONNECT screen (I just do not know how far down it defaults to display to, ie., how far down temp it will show till hits default).







Out of 2018 Manual: Since Limited, but still Gen 4, I would think it would have battery info displayed-equipped: Pics above from my 2019 5th Gen:

 

[HEMIMANN]

So then, how are people claiming they can use these style of batteries in vehicles that never came with them and supposedly not have any problems? I’m not at all arguing with you because I purely don’t know, I’m just simply asking the question and I’m kind of like what wild ones said being that these trucks have that buy batteries sensor on them, I haven’t yet thought about that, but being that he brought it up, that would make sense to me.

What's your definition of "any problems"?

I just mentioned what I considered a non advantage for me.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Isn't the purpose of the IBS sensor to keep either an AGM or flooded wet cell properly charged.I was under the impression it was added in 2013 so that it allowed both styles of battery,but maybe i'm misunderstanding it's purpose

Sure, if there is one, but this is the 1st I'd seen evidence of one. No one associated with the vehicle could or would tell me.

 

[corneileous]

OK, Here U go: On yer Limited you have THE 7" Premium EVIC Screen. Here is the screens you should see: Start at Big MPH Screen. Hit Left side steering wheel (SW) controls down (1), then you will see whatever screen was previously viewed. Scroll left/right till you see Gauge Summary displayed. Now you go (1) to the Left and you should see: Battery Voltage. I do not have the order exact as I had to shrink the pics size to a viewable segment on my other PC, as I do not have a viable program on this new PC I am on now: But as you go right/left you will see the screens depicted below after you go down (1) from MPH display.



View attachment 558986View attachment 558987View attachment 558988View attachment 558989View attachment 558990View attachment 558991View attachment 558992View attachment 558993View attachment 558995View attachment 558996

I guess that’s a new body style thing or like that other guy was saying, something that only the diesel trucks have but, I went through my screens this morning before I went to work and I don’t have anything on there that tells me what the charge voltage is using actual numbers. Sounds like the only way I’m gonna be able to do that is to hook my laptop up using Alpha OBD while I drive or just plug in my little bitty OBD 2 scanner and see what it is that way.

 

[corneileous]

What's your definition of "any problems"?

I just mentioned what I considered a non advantage for me.

I’ve been reading all over the place, not just here where people claim to use these AGM batteries in a car that did not come with this type of battery that say they’re not having any problems. Or in other words, their car doesn’t know any difference from the AGM battery to the Regular ole, cheaper battery the car came with or what they’ve used all these years.

That’s what I meant about people saying they haven’t had any problems.

 

[Wild one]

Sure, if there is one, but this is the 1st I'd seen evidence of one. No one associated with the vehicle could or would tell me.

Take a look at your negative battery post Brian,or better yet get us a picture of it,if it has a weird looking connector,that'll be the IBS /intelligent battery sensor ,and as far as i know it was added in 13 to the majority of Chryco vehicles.
If you have something that looks similiar to this on the negative battery post,you have the IBS sensor

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