2019 Ram 1500 battery voltage 12.7V...failed state inspection

[howster1]

Hi,
Got a state inspection in MA yesterday and failed due to battery. Battery is 3 yrs old with a voltage of 12.7V. What's the pass mark voltage level?
Also I came out one morning 3 months ago to a dead battery. No lights or electric were on overnight to drain battery. Wondering if bigger issue at play? Jump started battery and it returned to only half on the dashboard battery level indicator over time despite getting 75 miles a day of driving (2hrs of commute time). I was expecting it to charge right up to at least 80-90%
Thanks

 

[PoMansRam]

Is the check engine light on or some type of code?
Assuming that 12.7V is with the engine idling, I'm surprised you don't have more problems. Any aftermarket electronics installed?

 

[HemiLonestar]

Should be very 13 to 14 volts when running/charging.

Is the check engine light on or some type of code?
Assuming that 12.7V is with the engine idling, I'm surprised you don't have more problems. Any aftermarket electronics installed?

If it's holding at 12.7 volts then stuff will continue to run unless it gets overloaded. I've found out the hard way that right about 11 volts is when modern electronic vehicles tell you to get bent.

 

[crash68]

Check the Intelligent Battery Senor, make sure it's tight and well seated on the negative battery terminal. The IBS sends information to determine how much and when to charge the battery. Possibly try removing the negative battery terminal/IBS as it's supposed to recalibrate itself when powered up. It might be worth replacing the IBS before jumping to replacing the alternator.

 

[howster1]

Hi,
12.7V is the voltmeter reading when battery is removed from truck. 14.45V is reading when battery is hooked up with engine running. Inspection diagnosis software indicated to technician that battery check failed.
Thanks

 

[howster1]

Is the check engine light on or some type of code?
Assuming that 12.7V is with the engine idling, I'm surprised you don't have more problems. Any aftermarket electronics installed?

No engine light. 14.45V when connected with engine running. No after market stuff other than a phone charger cable in usb. Thanks

 

[howster1]

Should be very 13 to 14 volts when running/charging.

If it's holding at 12.7 volts then stuff will continue to run unless it gets overloaded. I've found out the hard way that right about 11 volts is when modern electronic vehicles tell you to get bent.

Hi, engine running voltage is 14.45V. Thanks

 

[howster1]

Check the Intelligent Battery Senor, make sure it's tight and well seated on the negative battery terminal. The IBS sends information to determine how much and when to charge the battery. Possibly try removing the negative battery terminal/IBS as it's supposed to recalibrate itself when powered up. It might be worth replacing the IBS before jumping to replacing the alternator.

Thanks. I took off both terminal clamps and reseated them. If alternator issue I'll mention the IBS to mechanic.

 

[crash68]

12.7V is the voltmeter reading when battery is removed from truck. 14.45V is reading when battery is hooked up with engine running. Inspection diagnosis software indicated to technician that battery check failed.

I think they're trying to sell you a battery, there is nothing wrong with those voltage readings while running and static.

I took off both terminal clamps and reseated them. If alternator issue I'll mention the IBS to mechanic.

I posted that think the 12.7V was while the truck was running.
Is this an eTorque motor?

 

[howster1]

No. 5.7 Hemi Gasoline

 

[OC455]

14.45 volts running is where it should be. 12.7 volts sitting OFF....is this a certified inspection shop??? Sounds like BS too me. Find another shop.....nothing wrong with your truck.

 

[metalchewy]

Does this shop sell batteries by chance???

Inspection shops where I grew up were commonly known for making you do more for an approval. One full service gas station would make you pay for a headlight alignment and adjustment. The tire shop would say your alignment is out. Make you pay for that to get a pass. Brake shop would ay your brake pedal was soft and make you pay for a brake line flush.l, etc.

Before the state removed state inspections there were numerous lawsuits and investigations into these shady practices.

Now there are unsafe vehicles driving everywhere and it is the highway patroll issuing fixit tickets on most pull overs.

 

[howster1]

Hi Guys,
Replaced my battery 70 days ago and brought truck for state inspection 5 days later and it failed as system wasn't ready. A month later and 1500 miles + of varied driving and speeds it still fails state inspection as system states it is not ready.
It's getting ridiculous that the drive cycles haven't been achieved at this stage to pass the test.
I've done lots of city, suburb and highway driving in the 10mph to 70mpg range with my daily commute.
Any ideas what the fix is? Crappy programmed onboard computer maybe?
Thanks

 

[howster1]

After the technician told me last month it was the battery it now turns out the fail was due to drive cycles not being ready for testing.. A month later and 1500 miles of varied speed driving the system still isn't ready for testing. Failed again today.

 

[metalchewy]

Do you have an OBD2 code reader to identify the actual DTCs that aren't ready?

I've Never heard of DTCs not ready after 1500 miles.

 

[MADDOG]

You may have a latent code that wasn't cleared and isnt' lighting up the CEL. Try resetting the PCM by disconnecting the negative battery cable for at least 30 minutes.

That should clear any codes that may be lingering.

 

[Jimmy07]

You may have a latent code that wasn't cleared and isnt' lighting up the CEL. Try resetting the PCM by disconnecting the negative battery cable for at least 30 minutes.

That should clear any codes that may be lingering.

This will actually have an adverse effect. It’s not necessarily due to a code that he’s failing, but because one or more of the readiness monitors haven’t passed yet (the threshold for how many monitors need to be passed varies by state). If you disconnect the battery to reset the PCM, all of the readiness monitors will reset to not ready, and he’ll have to start the drive cycle process all over again.
But, there definitely might be a permanent fault stored that is hanging up one of the readiness checks. If there’s not an actual issue, these permanent faults will clear on their own after a certain amount of successful drive cycles (usually 3). Otherwise, it’ll remain until whatever is causing the fault is corrected.

 

[turkeybird56]

No. 5.7 Hemi Gasoline

TOTAL BS. 12.7 Volts resting is right on. 14.4 to 14.5 running is well within specs. Like CRASH said, someone trying to sell a battery. My 4 year old and change battery in my truck is starting to go. My resting volts are down to 12.2, should be 12.6/7, but for now I can live with the 12.2, but no doubt be replacing battery soon. All IMHO.

 

[howster1]

So mechanic reset the computer and said come back in a few days after putting in some mileage. He did say it's very rare that the truck still fails readiness checks after 1500 miles. Will report back in coming days. So much for technology alleviating problems

 

[GTyankee]

Which of the 7 Readiness Tests didn't pass ?

I sure hope that your mechanic didn't just clear the codes without checking first