3rd brake light leaking

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jerbo1978

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Hi everyone
Have an issue with the headliner getting wet.
2012 ram 1500.
When I removed the brake light,I noticed that the brake light is curved...Quite a bit actually.
Straight edge from corner to corner on the bottom and there is a good 3/16 gap.
Are they made this way or is it warped ?
I'm thinking that it isn't sealing on the bottom like it should. I think the bottom edge of the lens is supposed to push in tight against the rear window rubber..
Any answers would be appreciated
Thanks
 

Grams

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That brake light has a history from earlier Rams of leaking gaskets. It’s best to re-seal it with caulk or your favorite “pookie’ (butyl tape, etc.)

Be aware that water may also be standing inside that rear wall below the rear window. Check the carpet and area.
 
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mdc1990zr1

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Hi everyone
Have an issue with the headliner getting wet.
2012 ram 1500.
When I removed the brake light,I noticed that the brake light is curved...Quite a bit actually.
Straight edge from corner to corner on the bottom and there is a good 3/16 gap.
Are they made this way or is it warped ?
I'm thinking that it isn't sealing on the bottom like it should. I think the bottom edge of the lens is supposed to push in tight against the rear window rubber..
Any answers would be appreciated
Thanks
I had bought a new Mopar third brake light because I had water on the floor under the carpet. When I took my light off, I noticed mine was warped too. Somewhere on this forum I stated this. Someone replied that the original lightbulbs run too hot and warp the plastic cover and to replace with LED bulbs. I did this and my replacement light has stayed true. There is also some sort of better gasket that was sold by some Detroit company, I forget which one that is supposed to seal better. I just used the gasket that came with the replacement light and I have been good, probably 5 or 6 years now.
 

RedcardRam

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It took 3 brake lights that dodge installed(under warranty)and mine was still leaking...I finally had to fix myself. There is a tsb about this that the dealerships don't follow.
Apply a small thin film of silicone on the outside edge of the foam gasket prior to installing.
 
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jerbo1978

jerbo1978

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I had bought a new Mopar third brake light because I had water on the floor under the carpet. When I took my light off, I noticed mine was warped too. Somewhere on this forum I stated this. Someone replied that the original lightbulbs run too hot and warp the plastic cover and to replace with LED bulbs. I did this and my replacement light has stayed true. There is also some sort of better gasket that was sold by some Detroit company, I forget which one that is supposed to seal better. I just used the gasket that came with the replacement light and I have been good, probably 5 or 6 years now.
Thank you..I saw an aftermarket one online for around $20 bucks..you think those are a good replacement?
 

Badger 13

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Go with the "easy fix" that Burla said. I did this a few years and it works great.
 

Grams

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IF considering a complete replacement (aftermarket) …remember that some trim levels have 3rd brake lights which include sensors/cameras and may not work with those.
 

RedcardRam

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Thank you..I saw an aftermarket one online for around $20 bucks..you think those are a good replacement?
I would just get a new gasket andl double them up. Apply a thin film of silicone and you should be good as long as the window frame isn't cracked...also a problem on the sliders
 

mdc1990zr1

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Thank you..I saw an aftermarket one online for around $20 bucks..you think those are a good replacement?
I usually choose OEM. You will usually notice an upgraded part number on the newer unit. This sometimes corresponds to a redesigned part that has corrected an issue
 

Daw14

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I did exactly what Burla has suggested above , 9 years ago . 9 years without having to touch it again.
 

RedcardRam

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Thank you..I saw an aftermarket one online for around $20 bucks..you think those are a good replacement?
That's what I got the 2 pack and placed both together. Scrapped off the old wet one. Then thin silicone on outside edge.
Worked perfectly!!
 

TJP440

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I just did this on my 2014 and found the "easy fix" material was a bit too wide/ thick. When I first installed it, I watched as I was EVENLY tightening the screws side to side. It was clearly apparent the housing was tweaking in the middle. I removed it, trimmed to outer edge off the weather strip and the assembly went in with a lot less force/ pressure on the housing itself. I verified it was sealing using a slender thin piece of paper doing a pull test in the middle as I tightened.
The housing warps due to not being strong enough to withstand the pressure of the gasket with only 2 outside screws. If it were metal and adequate thickness, no problem. But Plastic? IMO there should have been screws in the middle.
The problem with plastic is it is not stable, especially when exposed to sunlight, heat etc.
~ 40 years ago one of my college instructors stated Plastic will replace metal soon. I responded, not in our lifetimes. This is a perfect example of why.:favorites13:
 
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mdc1990zr1

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I just did this on my 2014 and found the "easy fix" material was a bit too wide/ thick. When I first installed it, I watched as I was EVENLY tightening the screws side to side. It was clearly apparent the housing was tweaking in the middle. I removed it, trimmed to outer edge off the weather strip and the assembly went in with a lot less force/ pressure on the housing itself. I verified it was sealing using a slender thin piece of paper doing a pull test in the middle as I tightened.
The housing warps due to not being strong enough to withstand the pressure of the gasket with only 2 outside screws. If it were metal and adequate thickness, no problem. But Plastic? IMO there should have been screws in the middle.
The problem with plastic is it is not stable, especially when exposed to sunlight, heat etc.
~ 40 years ago one of my college instructors stated Plastic will replace metal soon. I responded, not in our lifetimes. This is a perfect example of why.:favorites13:
I agree with you. In my previous posts I noted that some other manufacturers use four screws to hold the third brake light on. That would definitely keep the lens from “bowing “ in the middle
 

aux576

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Go to your local home center and get a roll of marine grade weather strip 5/16 thick by 3/4 wide with an adhesive back, remove the light and replace the blown/shattered bulb clean all the old gasket off, put the weather strip on the lens with the seam to the side (NOT the top or bottom) Ideally the seam needs to be as small as possible, you'll have to press a little hard to get the screws to start, once started sock the screws down evenly and that's it, no messy silicone or RTV and it leaves the light easily serviceable
 

TJP440

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Go to your local home center and get a roll of marine grade weather strip 5/16 thick by 3/4 wide with an adhesive back, remove the light and replace the blown/shattered bulb clean all the old gasket off, put the weather strip on the lens with the seam to the side (NOT the top or bottom) Ideally the seam needs to be as small as possible, you'll have to press a little hard to get the screws to start, once started sock the screws down evenly and that's it, no messy silicone or RTV and it leaves the light easily serviceable
I think you meant 3/8 wide ? The previously recommended W/S that I used was 19/32 wide and 5/16 thick. I found it really put a lot of stress on the housing. see post # 13
:cheers:
 

Burla

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The marine rubber is so easy on and off, it wouldn't be a bad idea to do it every ten years. Let's be honest to why this happens, it happens because the OEM seal that will likely last forever, is thin and flat and not held tight as you can see it was just crimped in one spot, probably on original install the light crushed it. The OEM seal looked fine when I took it off my leaking light, it is just a badly engineered product. The marine rubber seal is properly engineered but yes fits tight. But it is adhesive on one side with 4 channels for protection, all 4 have to leak before seal fails, you would have better off watching grass grow then waiting for the seal to fail. Just one potential fix I haven't looked at others because it worked, still leak free whatever year it is now versus when I did the original one. I will probably do it again this summer, just to see what's up.

did you all have a crimp like mine right under sample mdf?

30308759195_4d31ec6262_z-jpg.jpg
 

bjayscanlon

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I have a roll of the auto/marine weather strip ready when needed. Since it will be raining tomorrow, I will find out soon if my 2023 leaks.
 

RonABQ

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2015 1500 - after trying the Detroit gasket (unsuccessfully) I went with Dorman’s whole new replacement assembly. Its gasket is thicker than OEM and sealed like a champ in the corners. Upgraded to LED bulbs in prep for tapping into the cargo light circuit to power aftermarket LED bed lights. (The new bed lights turn on/off with the cargo light dash switch and automatically turnoff when the cargo lights timeout). The Detroit gasket was thinner out-of-the-package than OEM, a nightmare to drop onto the housing and it stretched as you put it on the lamp assembly. There’s no repositioning once it touches the lamp assembly. I’ve had the Dorman installed since July 2023 no issues.
 

NashTT

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Did the fix Burla is showing. Ordered the stripping from Amazon and 15 minutes later I was finished. No leaks. I did slightly tighten the screws two months later for shrinkage, Less than 1/4 turn, but probably not necessary.
 
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