5w20 or 5w30

[Burla]

Machine lube's marque take on this issue.

Motor Oils - Fuel Economy vs. Wear

 

[pacofortacos]

5w-30 doesn't affect MDS very often if at all, however it does affect the VVT on my 16 on the first cold start.
So, I can't run even a partial crankcase of 5w-30. 5w-20 seems a bit thin when towing @ 70 mph to Florida in heat of July and August. 0w-30 mixed with 5w-20 works perfect for my uses

Side note, dealers just in the past couple of years started using 5w-20 BLEND on their oil changes, prior to that it was conventional 5w-20.
However, I wouldn't go 10k miles on conventional if you plan on keeping the truck for the long haul.

 

[ChevySlayer69]

5w-30 doesn't affect MDS very often if at all, however it does affect the VVT on my 16 on the first cold start.
So, I can't run even a partial crankcase of 5w-30. 5w-20 seems a bit thin when towing @ 70 mph to Florida in heat of July and August. 0w-30 mixed with 5w-20 works perfect for my uses

Side note, dealers just in the past couple of years started using 5w-20 BLEND on their oil changes, prior to that it was conventional 5w-20.
However, I wouldn't go 10k miles on conventional if you plan on keeping the truck for the long haul.

How is vvt affected on cold start?

 

[pacofortacos]

On startup, the VVT does a cam sweep to test the circuit - at least to best of my knowledge.
So with the heavier oil, I get a weird buck/backfire type thing going on in the first second after starting.
Using a slightly lighter oil, stopped it from happening and it is repeatable so I know it is the oil causing the issue.
Now it is possible that on my truck, the motor may be at the far end of one of the tolerances as far as the cam timing is concerned. I haven't really ever heard anyone else mention the buck, but my truck sits for weeks at a time so when I do a cold start, it is truly a cold start.

MDS isn't in play or active on startup.

I can't think of anything else that it could possibly be and it only does it once and only for about a second or so, after it is done the truck idles perfectly. This all happens in the first 1-3 seconds on startup.

 

[2bikemike]

As several folks have said, full synthetic is the only way to go if you care about the truck and best engine performance and life. Forget you ever knew conventional oil exists.this is a rule you should start for any combustion engine you have. Synthetic doesn't jell is cold weather and protects better as engine gets hot as synthetic oil is drawn to hot surfaces while conventional repels more. This means the oil helps draw heat off and takes it out to be cooled before returning inside the engine. Just saying. My 2019 came with synthetic oil in it from factory I'm told at dealer.

 

[BaysideTank]

I'm using 5W20 full synthetic. Love the synthetic oil!

Yep Synthetic is the way to go. I have found that even Wal-Mart synthetic oil is good. I usually add about a 2/3 quart of Marvelous Mystery Oil, and then top of with Wal-Mart synthetic. The engine loves it. Quiet, peppy, and cool running. I found this out years ago when I bought a used Dodge Ramcharger with a 318 V8. It ran a little rough, and a little loud. Ran a can of engine flush, and drained. I put in the MMO and synthetic in it. Got on the highway and ran it at 70 for about 5 minutes. I could actually hear the engine settle in to a smooth and quiet run. Voila! I do that to this day on my 18 Dodge 1500, 14 Fiat 500L, and 18 VW Tiguan.

 

[Jtblackram]

Id use the 5w20 if i were you at least until im out of warranty, then its fair game to use other stuff. If a dealer wants to bust your balls they could not honor the warranty if you dont use the proper oil

 

[turkeybird56]

Oil threads never die Well for me I run 100% synthetic and what the manufacture specs call for ! I live up in Maine a couple hrs over the border from Canada so sometimes gets real cold :O , I made my switch from conventional oil to full synthetic in the 90's in mt F150 w/a 302! On super cold mornings it would turn over slowly because of the thicker oil from the cold ! :O When I switched to 100 synthetic it turned over like it was summer, so I was hooked lol What one is better ??? BUT what matters most IMO in just change the oil when called for ! For me I think full synthetic is better in the long run from all I have read ! but who knows :O

FULL Synthetic always. FULL in my Motorcycle also. Now lawn mower, riding mower, just straight HD 30, LOL.... 5W20 winter, now U can either stay with it in summer or if real hot/hard working in summer U could go to 5W30. Since mine does lil hard work, tho stupid hot here, 5W20 works for me. ALL IMHO.....

ADDED: Oil change intervals regardless critical. ALSO, in winter, try to always get to OP temps for a while, not halfway, too much condensation than...Just IMHO..... But man my harley was bad for that, my Honda, not so much...

 

[7thday]

I've found it to be true in motorcycles that the synthetic doesn't form carbon deposits around the piston rings like conventional will not sure it would be the same for the Hemi.

 

[turkeybird56]

I've found it to be true in motorcycles that the synthetic doesn't form carbon deposits around the piston rings like conventional will not sure it would be the same for the Hemi.

I have a 06 Wing Trike, which of course has the 1833 "V6" motor on it. That thang gets stupid hot, gotta do all I can do to insure longevity and op temps, especially in TX. No way I would run dino in it...

Hemi same thing. We get over 100 degrees for a week if more at a time. Dino oil just not last well, but all IMHO...............

 

[Mopower71]

Kurek, my POV, your question is fair. The assumption or suggestion that the manufacture has the best interest of the vehicle and the customer in mind is flawed. The manufactures often make a recommendation or set specs that have nothing to do with what is best for the vehicle. Today they are driven by political decisions and socialist rules. CAFE standards, warranty rules, lemon laws etc. The days of the engineers know best and they design and spec the vehicle to last longer, are behind us. They spec the thinnest oil they can get by with. Reduce drag on rotating parts. They spec 80lbs air pressure in the rear tires of 2500 trucks. Less tread resistance. Horrible ride. They let, out of spec parts get into assembly. It is a economic gamble for them. The dealer will fix those that complain. Most will make it to trade in before they fail. MDS gets them CAFE standards as 4 cylinders drag the other 4 cylinders through the firing sequence. Ford's engineering is even better. Engine shuts off at stop light. High speed starter starts it back up when you depress the gas. How does that effect a 5.0 truck engine when it is 115* outside running on low temp thin oil. Got their CAFE rating. Fitz

This is true Ford loosened their 302 up in the 90's so much, so they could meet cafe , that they had a tsb out that said burning 1 qt of oil every 1000 miles was normal.
Mopar has a tsb for their 2012-2019 vehicles that states 1qt every 2000 miles is normal.
I can't stand that . new vehicle that burns oil.
What does this do to the cats?

 

[Rado]

FULL Synthetic always. FULL in my Motorcycle also. Now lawn mower, riding mower, just straight HD 30, LOL.... 5W20 winter, now U can either stay with it in summer or if real hot/hard working in summer U could go to 5W30. Since mine does lil hard work, tho stupid hot here, 5W20 works for me. ALL IMHO.....

ADDED: Oil change intervals regardless critical. ALSO, in winter, try to always get to OP temps for a while, not halfway, too much condensation than...Just IMHO..... But man my harley was bad for that, my Honda, not so much...

I also ran Synthetic in my bikes as well. Mobile 1 MX4T because of the wet clutch ! Added it to my lawn mower and will use it in the generator when I use up the regular oil.. My buddy;s HD he went full synthetic for everything and ran better and drive train quieter !

 

[JS4024]

DO NOT use 5w-30. Bearing clearances are way too tight on that motor. Let the other guy destroy their engines because they “know” better. Use a quality 5w-20 synthetic and you will have no issues at all.....

 

[Fitz-0518]

^^^FCA/Mopar/dealer now recommend/offer 5-30 in the hotter SW climates. Both are acceptable for warranty compliance. But I agree that in the colder climates Canada NE etc, 5-20.

 

[Burla]

DO NOT use 5w-30. Bearing clearances are way too tight on that motor. Let the other guy destroy their engines because they “know” better. Use a quality 5w-20 synthetic and you will have no issues at all.....

Understand that viscosity is just a measurement related to temperature. So if what you say is true, when 5w20 is cold it can be 100 times thicker than 5w30 at operating temp, not hyperbole but actually 100 times thicker. 5w30 operates at 12 viscosity, but oil is always moving, so when 5w20 is cold it can easily be viscosity 1200 or higher, much higher. So how can 5w20 move through bearings if it is that thick? The answer is those bearing tolerances aren't as tight as you believe. Fca doesn't even say that, they say 20 weight is needed for mds, which has been proven to be a lie as well.

But one fact is, there has been widespread issues with hemi's and lubrication, and most of those trucks were using 5w20. Could those failures been prevented with heavier oil? Dunno, but maybe. I bet every single person that shelled out money on a failed Cam wished they at least tried some of the oils this forum has experimented with. Then, you at least know you tried, and then if the truck died, oh well you did all you could. 5w20 is government agenda oil, that's it that's all. When FCA got to choose an oil because HD's are out of governmental control, they choose a 40 weight oil full of additives.

 

[Octane]

Understand that viscosity is just a measurement related to temperature. So if what you say is true, when 5w20 is cold it can be 100 times thicker than 5w30 at operating temp, not hyperbole but actually 100 times thicker. 5w30 operates at 12 viscosity, but oil is always moving, so when 5w20 is cold it can easily be viscosity 1200 or higher, much higher. So how can 5w20 move through bearings if it is that thick? The answer is those bearing tolerances aren't as tight as you believe. Fca doesn't even say that, they say 20 weight is needed for mds, which has been proven to be a lie as well.

But one fact is, there has been widespread issues with hemi's and lubrication, and most of those trucks were using 5w20. Could those failures been prevented with heavier oil? Dunno, but maybe. I bet every single person that shelled out money on a failed Cam wished they at least tried some of the oils this forum has experimented with. Then, you at least know you tried, and then if the truck died, oh well you did all you could. 5w20 is government agenda oil, that's it that's all. When FCA got to choose an oil because HD's are out of governmental control, they choose a 40 weight oil full of additives.

As a matter of fact many domestic cars use oils other than 5w20 overseas and the manufacturers are okay with it because 5w20 is not avail. in many places.I smell an agenda...

 

[crackerjack1957]

DO NOT use 5w-30. Bearing clearances are way too tight on that motor. Let the other guy destroy their engines because they “know” better. Use a quality 5w-20 synthetic and you will have no issues at all.....

Nothing to do with bearing clearances..........running 5w-30 here turning 6500rpm @ WOT with 77k on the clock.
5w-20 is for gas mileage, colder climates & VVT & MDS friendly.

 

[rsdata]

Anybody here use Motorkote hyper-lube additive? Popular with truckers.

www.motorkote.com

I have been using it in all my engines for at least 10 years... I am a believer.

 

[ChevySlayer69]

The idea that 5w30 is bad for the hemi is a joke. FWIW, this morning I cold started my truck at 10 degrees F with 5w30 conventional PYB in the crankcase with no drama whatsoever. Cranked the same speed and started identical to a regular morning with no ticks or knocks.

 

[sac neal]

add a can of moly lub with each oil change if you are using 100% synthetic makes a difference friction is the heat problem and moly solves that problem