87 or 89 octane

[2012RAM1500RT]

I was wrong, page 469 of my manual states problems occurring from using more than E-15 affects warranty, sorry my bad lol!

The picture you posted recommending regular unleaded is from a dealer, not FCA.

My manual states on page 469 the following:
5.7L Engine 89

"this engine is designed to meet emissions regulations and provide satisfactory fuel economy and performance when using high-quality unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 87 to 89 as specified by the (R+M)/2 method. The use of 89 octane "plus" gasoline is recommended for optimum performance and fuel economy"

The only time the word "recommended" is used regarding gasoline states 89 with a little box around it, that's what FCA recommends, says you can use octane between 87 and 89 but clearly states they recommend 89

So for that dealership to print a form that says "regular unleaded is recommended" is false advertising and wrong. We know gas price will scare some folks from buying a truck in general, now add the fact you should be running plus grade gas and they run off a few more prospective buyers.

I find it funny some folks will spend all the money on high end oil and filters above what is recommended by the manufacturer, change it more frequently than recommended and then swing into the cheapest gas station they can find.

That's like joining the gym, quit drinking and smoking but eating at McDonalds...........

My manual says the same thing, recommend 89 octane. I just tried 87 since my tuner was for 87 or 93 and I use 89 when I go on trips trying to get the best fuel mileage but I can't feel any difference by the seat of the pants otherwise. I don't disagree with using 89.

 

[corneileous]

I find it funny some folks will spend all the money on high end oil and filters above what is recommended by the manufacturer, change it more frequently than recommended and then swing into the cheapest gas station they can find.

That's like joining the gym, quit drinking and smoking but eating at McDonalds...........

Apparently either you don’t get it or haven’t read much through the forums because the majority purpose for the high end oil, filter, and more frequent oil changes is for the health of the motor since these engines are prone to cam and lifter failures due to an ongoing faulty design, not mileage.


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[corneileous]

My manual says the same thing, recommend 89 octane. I just tried 87 since my tuner was for 87 or 93 and I use 89 when I go on trips trying to get the best fuel mileage but I can't feel any difference by the seat of the pants otherwise. I don't disagree with using 89.

I can’t really either, I just give it what’s recommended.


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[HEMIMANN]

I can’t really either, I just give it what’s recommended.


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Yup - I want all the spark timing advance and torque I can get when towing contractor trailers in the steep driftless hills, but also just better efficiency and better engine health.

 

[dragstrip69]

Apparently either you don’t get it or haven’t read much through the forums because the majority purpose for the high end oil, filter, and more frequent oil changes is for the health of the motor since these engines are prone to cam and lifter failures due to an ongoing faulty design, not mileage.


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I wasn't meaning with just a hemi that you may want to do more than called for, I understand why some here use extra caution and pay particular attention to the Hemi's known failure point. There are others that exceed recommendations for reasons other than the lifters or cam issues as well. I had no clue they had this issue when I got it but I already planned to run the best oils and filters as I do in all my trucks. So in my mind the hemi tick isn't relevant unless I get it down the road and I'll know I did everything I could to prevent it including the fuel.

Just like my tundra I changed it at 5k vs 10k and will do the same thing on this Ram, when the oil life monitor hits 50% and or 5k miles which ever comes first I'll change it. I hope to hit the 5 k before the 50% and somewhat clean oil comes out.

This Ram has had 2 oil changes in 6000 miles, dealer changed it at 5k when I got it (demo) and I switched it over to PUP, as recommended 500 miles later.

Regardless of any historical failures in any of my vehicles I have always been aggressive with my oil change intervals and the use of high quality lubricates, filters and fuels is important to me. I don't stop at good oil, I believe the fuel is just as important part of the equation.

I feel the quality of fuel you use indeed helps the engine just like good quality oil does. High quality "plus" fuel is more than 2 octane points, it has additional cleaners and additives just like the good oils we use, that help the internal health of the engine as well, all worth the extra cost.

The point was, we will exceed factory recommendations in some areas and then not even use the recommended fuel. I'm concerned with the longevity and performance of my truck, not just one know failure point, so I'll use the recommended or better level of lubricants, filters and fuel.

 

[Octane]

I'm old school,I use at least 89.I dont run the 87 in my lawn equipment...or ethanol in the equip. either.In event of an apocalypse I run what is available.I change my oil when I deem necessary,not when a geek computer tells me too.

 

[corneileous]

I wasn't meaning with just a hemi that you may want to do more than called for, I understand why some here use extra caution and pay particular attention to the Hemi's known failure point. There are others that exceed recommendations for reasons other than the lifters or cam issues as well. I had no clue they had this issue when I got it but I already planned to run the best oils and filters as I do in all my trucks. So in my mind the hemi tick isn't relevant unless I get it down the road and I'll know I did everything I could to prevent it including the fuel.

Just like my tundra I changed it at 5k vs 10k and will do the same thing on this Ram, when the oil life monitor hits 50% and or 5k miles which ever comes first I'll change it. I hope to hit the 5 k before the 50% and somewhat clean oil comes out.

This Ram has had 2 oil changes in 6000 miles, dealer changed it at 5k when I got it (demo) and I switched it over to PUP, as recommended 500 miles later.

Regardless of any historical failures in any of my vehicles I have always been aggressive with my oil change intervals and the use of high quality lubricates, filters and fuels is important to me. I don't stop at good oil, I believe the fuel is just as important part of the equation.

I feel the quality of fuel you use indeed helps the engine just like good quality oil does. High quality "plus" fuel is more than 2 octane points, it has additional cleaners and additives just like the good oils we use, that help the internal health of the engine as well, all worth the extra cost.

The point was, we will exceed factory recommendations in some areas and then not even use the recommended fuel. I'm concerned with the longevity and performance of my truck, not just one know failure point, so I'll use the recommended or better level of lubricants, filters and fuel.

My bad, man, I read your post wrong.


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[dragstrip69]

My bad, man, I read your post wrong.


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LOL! easy to do, sometimes our typed words get misconstrued.

I'll try to be more easily understood in my future posts, but sometimes what I'm trying to say gets interpreted differently regardless. HAHA.............

peace out

 

[SOL-man]

The octane rating of gasoline concerns how much pressure (compression) the gasoline will take before detonation. It really does not mean that 89 contains more power than 87. High performance engines use higher compression so therefore they require the higher octane so they don't pre-detonate (knock). In extreme cases, using low octane in a high compression engine could cause it to grenade the block when the rod separates. Your engine will tell you if it wants a higher octane by knocking on acceleration. You should have more concern about WHERE you buy your gasoline. The low-budget gas dealers use gasoline without detergents and over time a gunk builds up in your heads. I took my Corvette in to have a valve job and my mechanic immediately chided me for buying cheap gas when he pulled the heads and saw the gunk. Look up "Top Tier Gasoline" for brands that use additives to prevent that gunk.

 

[Daw14]

Nothing except 93 octane.

 

[runamuck]

87 for me for many many years..no problems I use 89 if towing my trailer in high heat. ECM will adjust for stuff like that. I use midgrade only in my two Harleys and they run fine.

 

[dtru1222]

So many "I use 87 and have no problems" posts...

Yes, you will not have problems as these engines are designed to run on that octane. The way they make this happen is by timing reduction aka less power.

What everyone is missing out on is that the difference in price going from 87 to 89 is mitigated or irrelevant as you will more than likely get higher MPG's with the 89.

I have done the hand calculations and found that even on 93 octane these engines pull timing due to detonation. When switching from 89 to 93 the MPG increase over 2 tanks proved that the extra cost at the pump meant nothing.

So continue with your 87 and get 100k+ miles out of your vehicle with less power/MPG. The engineers built the engine to do so, however you are missing out on free power under a false idea that you are saving money.

 

[2012RAM1500RT]

So many "I use 87 and have no problems" posts...

Yes, you will not have problems as these engines are designed to run on that octane. The way they make this happen is by timing reduction aka less power.

What everyone is missing out on is that the difference in price going from 87 to 89 is mitigated or irrelevant as you will more than likely get higher MPG's with the 89.

I have done the hand calculations and found that even on 93 octane these engines pull timing due to detonation. When switching from 89 to 93 the MPG increase over 2 tanks proved that the extra cost at the pump meant nothing.

So continue with your 87 and get 100k+ miles out of your vehicle with less power/MPG. The engineers built the engine to do so, however you are missing out on free power under a false idea that you are saving money.

I'm not disagreeing with you at all. When the difference in prices from 87, 89, and 93 octane went in 10 cent increments you couldn't pay me to use anything but 93 regardless, but since the fuel companies decided to change it to 30 to 35 cent increments I can't make it work out anymore for me. I have a tune for 87 octane but I run 89 octane a lot since that's what they call for. My 25 gallon tank will cost $7.50 more per tank using 89 versus 87 and $15.00 more per tank using 93 versus 87 and if I could get enough MPG difference to come close to making it work out I would. When I go to the track to run I do run the higher octane hoping to make my engine perform it's best. I say use whatever makes us happy as long as it doesn't hurt it mechanically.

 

[corneileous]

What I don’t understand is how so many of you guys who say you run 93 like it really does help to spend that extra money on that octane fuel when that’s outside the 87/89 requirement for stock tuning. You folks that run 93, is your computer tuned to run on that or are you just assuming you’re getting any kind of a benefit out of that high of octane fuel?


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[runamuck]

I have never run the 93 in mine but I have used midgrade a few times and have not noticed much difference in mileage. I didnt buy it based on gas mileage except that I liked the Tundras for towing capability and passed on one of those because of the terrible gas mileage they get. I bought mine mostly for towing our travel trailer and I get 20 or sometimes more on the highway when not towing and that is plenty fine for me.

 

[seabrook]

i only run 93 because gas is cheap

 

[tidefan1967]

i only run 93 because gas is cheap

$3 plus a gallon is cheap? .99 cents a gallon is cheap. Gas hasn't been cheap since the late 90's, very early 2000's and it's guaranteed to go a lot higher in the next few years..................

 

[seabrook]

$3 plus a gallon is cheap? .99 cents a gallon is cheap. Gas hasn't been cheap since the late 90's, very early 2000's and it's guaranteed to go a lot higher in the next few years..................

ok sorry its cheap to me

 

[dtru1222]

What I don’t understand is how so many of you guys who say you run 93 like it really does help to spend that extra money on that octane fuel when that’s outside the 87/89 requirement for stock tuning. You folks that run 93, is your computer tuned to run on that or are you just assuming you’re getting any kind of a benefit out of that high of octane fuel?


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I use the Diablosport Trinity to log ST/LT knock. Like I said, even on 93 I was getting knock which reduces timing/power.

This isnt just one vehicle either... It was my 09 5.7 1500, my 2012 5.7 1500, my 2013 5.7 Challenger, my GF's 13 v6 Charger, her v6 Jeep and now my 20 1500 5.7. Every single one of those got high ST or LT knock on 93 octane. I live in Texas so the heat has something to do with it but I have a 180 therm on my Challenger and it was still happening. I installed catch cans on all of them and instantly saw a reduction in knock.

The fact is, you will not know if your engine is reducing timing due to knock as its not always audible. You have to either log it or do the octane test with a few tanks to see if your MPG increases as your octane increases. Thats a clear sign that the lower grade is causing timing reduction.

 

[ramffml]

I use the Diablosport Trinity to log ST/LT knock. Like I said, even on 93 I was getting knock which reduces timing/power.

This isnt just one vehicle either... It was my 09 5.7 1500, my 2012 5.7 1500, my 2013 5.7 Challenger, my GF's 13 v6 Charger, her v6 Jeep and now my 20 1500 5.7. Every single one of those got high ST or LT knock on 93 octane. I live in Texas so the heat has something to do with it but I have a 180 therm on my Challenger and it was still happening. I installed catch cans on all of them and instantly saw a reduction in knock.

The fact is, you will not know if your engine is reducing timing due to knock as its not always audible. You have to either log it or do the octane test with a few tanks to see if your MPG increases as your octane increases. Thats a clear sign that the lower grade is causing timing reduction.

With the catch can, was the audible knocking reduced? Like did you hear a difference after adding CC or did you have to look at the logs to see it? Thinking about adding CC myself because I'm tired of the pinging under load, even with 89/91.