Accidentally drilled into wiring cluster

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DodgeLady

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I fixed that for ya DL. :cool:

Step 1: Disconnect the battery negative post ASAP, wherever it is now.
Step 2: Rescue the truck from the dealer.
Step 3: Move it to a garage or covered area where you can work on it out of the weather.
Step 4: Post some pics of your wire cluster.

.
Thank you!!
 

markabby

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man, that's gotta hurt...drilling thru a bunch of wires. I didn't see any pictures of what you did yet, but, maybe you just cut thru a couple if them? If it's in a wrapped harness, the guys are right, it's an easy repair.

post some pics when you get a chance!
 

JW2 Innovations

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I bought a Jeep Grand Cherokee that had a recent 5.7 hemi swap but would only drive in limp mode years ago. Ended up being the wiring harness got clipped when they did the swap that goes to the automatic transmission up on top of bell housing. Anyways....I found what gauge each damaged wire was from service manual (ended up being two different sizes) and one by one soldered and heat shrunk each wire and then wrapped up the affected area once all were fixed - not using electrical tape! Never had a problem with it for years afterwards. I'm sure there are many more on this forum that have done similar, whether it be just one wire of several. Not a hard fix.

You can do it easily once you gather your tools/supplies together and figure out the best angle to approach the damaged area - meaning physically yourself as sometimes that's the hardest part depending on the location. Myself I didn't worry about color matching the damaged wiring as it gets covered by the heat shrink anyways for the affected area - as I said I focused on the correct gauge of wire for each damaged wire for the repair.

Lot's of good info/recommendations here. Hone up your soldering skills on the bench if needed and get at it. You can do this.
 

Bighorn_Brown

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Been reading through “a few” of the posts with recommendations to repair. Some good ideas out there. And yes, the wires that have damaged insulation can absolutely be repaired. Did it all the time on helicopters (OH-58D Kiowa, CH-47F Chinook, AH-64A & -D Apache, AH-1F Cobra, and UH-60A & -L & -M… you get the point).

If it’s a number of wires that have been compromised I’d stagger the splices… that way you don’t have 10-15 splices stacked one on top of the other. Also, as recommended earlier I’d definitely use something other than a mechanical splice.

While they do work good, I’d be more inclined to use something that not only includes solder for a more stable connection, but something that gives you environmental protection as well.

Back to my comment about “staggering the repair”… this may cause you to use more splices which will result in the signal carrying more resistance as it attempts to cross over the multiple repairs/ splices in the wire run. “Could” potentially cause issues.

So, maybe limit your repair to the area; just cut out the damaged insulation, and make the splice there.

Also, if the damage is limited to the insulation with “very little” wire strand damage (1-3’ish wire strands), and you’re feeling groggy you might try this…

Using a multimeter in the continuity setting find the wire that’s damaged at the harness end. Once located, de-pin it from the harness and single it out of the wire bundle to the point of damage. At this point you want to run a piece of heat shrink over it. With a heat gun, hit it back and forth a few times until the heat shrink completely shrinks. You’ll do this for each damaged wire.

Another option, is using F4 tape. It’s a stretchable elastic wire tape we use on wire harnesses to protect them from chaffing against aircraft surfaces. You can use it to wrap any exposed areas to prevent grounding.

F4 tape, unlike regular black electrical tape, does not use adhesive to bond. As you know, heat will cause the adhesive to fail over time. Instead, heat makes F4 tape’s bond even better. The more it’s exposed to heat the more its bonds.

One downside to using F4 tape in a single wire repair is the complexity of getting the tape to stay in one place while making an attempt to wrap it around. What I would suggest in that scenario is cutting small strips (approximately 1/2 to 1 inch in size) and wrap one around each area of concern. You center the wire in the cut piece and fold the sides so they equally meet up. Once all your wires have been prepped in this fashion you can much more easily completely wrap all the wires with the F4 tape.

Make sure to bring the wrap above/ below the repaired areas appropriately 1/2 to 1 inch. Not only are you wires protected from each other, and any bare metal in the vehicle, but are also environmentally protected.

Good luck. Hopefully, you find a fix that works for you. Let us know what you end up with.
 
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Rebelwithacause

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UPDATE: My truck was hauled to a local shop last Tuesday. By Friday the truck was ready. A technician removed the inner fender to access the damaged area, and repaired each of the damaged wires. It was discovered a couple shorts ran through the BCM board and fried the circuit paths. He ran solder along the damaged paths and repaired it. The owner stated that he looked at ordering a replacement, but that involved several weeks of back order. It cost me just north of 3 grand, which is what I guessed ahead of time.
 

Adamcr68

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UPDATE: My truck was hauled to a local shop last Tuesday. By Friday the truck was ready. A technician removed the inner fender to access the damaged area, and repaired each of the damaged wires. It was discovered a couple shorts ran through the BCM board and fried the circuit paths. He ran solder along the damaged paths and repaired it. The owner stated that he looked at ordering a replacement, but that involved several weeks of back order. It cost me just north of 3 grand, which is what I guessed ahead of time.
A costly lesson for sure, I have had many so definitely can emphasize, appreciate you updating your post.
Glad you’re back on the road, hopefully the repair will last.
 

DodgeLady

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I’m so glad you found a good shop to fix it. It was expensive but it is tedious work and it sounds like they saved you quite a bit by repairing the traces! Congrats on the success! Thanks for posting the update. I think a few of us here were wanting to stop by and fix it ourselves!
 
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Rebelwithacause

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Been reading through “a few” of the posts with recommendations to repair. Some good ideas out there. And yes, the wires that have damaged insulation can absolutely be repaired. Did it all the time on helicopters (OH-58D Kiowa, CH-47F Chinook, AH-64A & -D Apache, AH-1F Cobra, and UH-60A & -L & -M… you get the point).

If it’s a number of wires that have been compromised I’d stagger the splices… that way you don’t have 10-15 splices stacked one on top of the other. Also, as recommended earlier I’d definitely use something other than a mechanical splice.

While they do work good, I’d be more inclined to use something that not only includes solder for a more stable connection, but something that gives you environmental protection as well.

Back to my comment about “staggering the repair”… this may cause you to use more splices which will result in the signal carrying more resistance as it attempts to cross over the multiple repairs/ splices in the wire run. “Could” potentially cause issues.

So, maybe limit your repair to the area; just cut out the damaged insulation, and make the splice there.

Also, if the damage is limited to the insulation with “very little” wire strand damage (1-3’ish wire strands), and you’re feeling groggy you might try this…

Using a multimeter in the continuity setting find the wire that’s damaged at the harness end. Once located, de-pin it from the harness and single it out of the wire bundle to the point of damage. At this point you want to run a piece of heat shrink over it. With a heat gun, hit it back and forth a few times until the heat shrink completely shrinks. You’ll do this for each damaged wire.

Another option, is using F4 tape. It’s a stretchable elastic wire tape we use on wire harnesses to protect them from chaffing against aircraft surfaces. You can use it to wrap any exposed areas to prevent grounding.

F4 tape, unlike regular black electrical tape, does not use adhesive to bond. As you know, heat will cause the adhesive to fail over time. Instead, heat makes F4 tape’s bond even better. The more it’s exposed to heat the more its bonds.

One downside to using F4 tape in a single wire repair is the complexity of getting the tape to stay in one place while making an attempt to wrap it around. What I would suggest in that scenario is cutting small strips (approximately 1/2 to 1 inch in size) and wrap one around each area of concern. You center the wire in the cut piece and fold the sides so they equally meet up. Once all your wires have been prepped in this fashion you can much more easily completely wrap all the wires with the F4 tape.

Make sure to bring the wrap above/ below the repaired areas appropriately 1/2 to 1 inch. Not only are you wires protected from each other, and any bare metal in the vehicle, but are also environmentally protected.

Good luck. Hopefully, you find a fix that works for you. Let us know what you end up with.
I appreciate the detailed response. It looks like you have a similar experience with a coworker of mine. He was stationed in Alaska for a time.

Although expensive, I'm glad I decided on using a professional to enact the repairs. I wouldn't have the wherewithall to troubleshoot to the BCM board. Moving on, I will remember your tips, especially regarding F4 tape. I'm sure I'll encounter need for splicing wiring again (but not on the truck).
 
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Rebelwithacause

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I’m so glad you found a good shop to fix it. It was expensive but it is tedious work and it sounds like they saved you quite a bit by repairing the traces! Congrats on the success! Thanks for posting the update. I think a few of us here were wanting to stop by and fix it ourselves!
Thank you, too!
 
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Rebelwithacause

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I’m so glad you found a good shop to fix it. It was expensive but it is tedious work and it sounds like they saved you quite a bit by repairing the traces! Congrats on the success! Thanks for posting the update. I think a few of us here were wanting to stop by and fix it ourselves!
Thank you very much!
 
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Rebelwithacause

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Thanks for the update, this kind of stuff takes time to do right and can't be rushed.
Getting at stuff under the hood on these new ones is a pita. I now see why bodies are lifted on some of these trucks, especially the diesels.
Thank you. It was a PITA indeed!
 
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Rebelwithacause

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I bought a Jeep Grand Cherokee that had a recent 5.7 hemi swap but would only drive in limp mode years ago. Ended up being the wiring harness got clipped when they did the swap that goes to the automatic transmission up on top of bell housing. Anyways....I found what gauge each damaged wire was from service manual (ended up being two different sizes) and one by one soldered and heat shrunk each wire and then wrapped up the affected area once all were fixed - not using electrical tape! Never had a problem with it for years afterwards. I'm sure there are many more on this forum that have done similar, whether it be just one wire of several. Not a hard fix.

You can do it easily once you gather your tools/supplies together and figure out the best angle to approach the damaged area - meaning physically yourself as sometimes that's the hardest part depending on the location. Myself I didn't worry about color matching the damaged wiring as it gets covered by the heat shrink anyways for the affected area - as I said I focused on the correct gauge of wire for each damaged wire for the repair.

Lot's of good info/recommendations here. Hone up your soldering skills on the bench if needed and get at it. You can do this.
Thanks a bunch! In this case I'm lighter in the pocket, but relieved I turned in over to someone better suited to remedy that mess.
 

Bighorn_Brown

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That’s great news. Yeah… this around I vowed not to touch/ modify anything. Though I did add brighter headlight bulbs. That’s it!!! ‍♂️
 

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