Adding power outlet to bed

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pjram

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I want to ad a 12 volt power outlet to my bed for a plug in cooler. I bought a kit from a local auto parts store and it’s too short to reach the battery. Before I go back for more wire and craw under the truck I was wondering if there is someplace simple in the back to tap into. I only want power while I’m driving. Thanks in advance.
 

dwhutch

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I want to ad a 12 volt power outlet to my bed for a plug in cooler. I bought a kit from a local auto parts store and it’s too short to reach the battery. Before I go back for more wire and craw under the truck I was wondering if there is someplace simple in the back to tap into. I only want power while I’m driving. Thanks in advance.
Do you have a trailer plug in the bumper?

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Villalobos

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I have been wondering about this also, getting a power supply from the flat trailer plug, which I may never use, as my TT uses the 7 round plug. Perhaps a 4 way flat to 12v socket or maybe even something more substantial, such as to an inverter then a 110. If any of that makes sense, lol.
 

Villalobos

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Here’s something cool, just googled 7 pin to 12v cigarette lighter, then I guess you could plug in an inverter and maybe run a few things. But for your cooler I think this would be the way to go?

6C07F54D-0989-4274-AAA7-9CAA27ED082B.jpeg
 
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pjram

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Here’s something cool, just googled 7 pin to 12v cigarette lighter, then I guess you could plug in an inverter and maybe run a few things. But for your cooler I think this would be the way to go?

View attachment 226723

I need the 7 pin for my trailer. My intention is to keep my food cold in transit while towing my TT. I’m not inclined to use my TT fridge while towing so the cooler works. I’d like to keep it out of the passenger cab, thus the bed outlet. Maybe I can find a four pin adapter.
 

crash68

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I need the 7 pin for my trailer. My intention is to keep my food cold in transit while towing my TT. I’m not inclined to use my TT fridge while towing so the cooler works. I’d like to keep it out of the passenger cab, thus the bed outlet. Maybe I can find a four pin adapter.

Buy a gooseneck/fifth wheel 7 pin plug kit for the bed of the truck. It parallels the connection on the bumper to the bed so both connections work.

https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Curt/C56070.html
 
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pjram

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The more I think about it I realize I need constant power while driving. I probably need to go to the engine compartment. Any recommendations on a fuse to tap into?
 

2DirtyKids

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dwhutch

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You can go this route and pull from the constant power from the harness. This way you aren't cutting into any original wiring. I used this for my LED taillight bar. The trailer plug is also pretty high AMP I believe.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0009FJ38Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_DNQPFb2VZ41W6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
e0d0a5b8c3e4d40728fbaa0b6786165d.jpg

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I don't think that will get him the constant 12v he needs, just lights on the 4 pin

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Edit: I just reread that, I guess you meant he could splice into this instead of the factory harness.
 
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dwhutch

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Buy a gooseneck/fifth wheel 7 pin plug kit for the bed of the truck. It parallels the connection on the bumper to the bed so both connections work.

https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Curt/C56070.html
I was thinking about splicing into the constant 12v on the 7 pin trailer connector and going to a cigarette lighter socket in the bed, but I'm cheap. This looks like a good no splice option if he doesn't mind spending the money.

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2DirtyKids

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I don't think that will get him the constant 12v he needs, just lights on the 4 pin

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No, splice into the 7 pin part of the harness. The flat connector is just a bonus.

1 oclock position = 12 volt hot lead

3 oclock position = right turn/brake light

5 oclock position = brake controller output

7 oclock position = ground

9 oclock position = left turn/brake light

11 oclock position = tail and running lights

Center = reverse lights

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pjram

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No, splice into the 7 pin part of the harness. The flat connector is just a bonus.

1 oclock position = 12 volt hot lead

3 oclock position = right turn/brake light

5 oclock position = brake controller output

7 oclock position = ground

9 oclock position = left turn/brake light

11 oclock position = tail and running lights

Center = reverse lights

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Thanks everyone. I think I hav a handle on it.
 

dwhutch

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No, splice into the 7 pin part of the harness. The flat connector is just a bonus.

1 oclock position = 12 volt hot lead

3 oclock position = right turn/brake light

5 oclock position = brake controller output

7 oclock position = ground

9 oclock position = left turn/brake light

11 oclock position = tail and running lights

Center = reverse lights

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Yea, I realized what you meant after I reread your post, I went back and edited mine.

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Villalobos

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Let us know what you end up with, might be a good DIY, if there isn’t one in the forum already
 

Vipertrucker

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I plan to add a 750 watt inverter I bought at Harbor Freight using light duty jumper cables to run all the way from the battery along the frame. Already have the wiring path figured out along the frame. The inverter provides two 110V outlets and quick-connect terminals if you want to disable the current for any reason.
 

Rado

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I plan to add a 750 watt inverter I bought at Harbor Freight using light duty jumper cables to run all the way from the battery along the frame. Already have the wiring path figured out along the frame. The inverter provides two 110V outlets and quick-connect terminals if you want to disable the current for any reason.
Please update us as well ! Pictures are a plus and you both will win a cookie :) I also want to add a power outlet to the bed, as well as another one in the cab
 

Moparfanatic21

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I plan on adding a converter behind the rear seat and using an extension cord (cutting off the one end) plugged into the converter ran through a grommet to the bed and adding 2 110 weatherproof outlets.
 
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