AlfaOBD

[gthoms334456]

Hi, still unable to change odometer reading, I'm in Canada and have a 2019 Classic with a premium cluster from a 2015, tried everything, keeps saying procedure failed, using my Samsung phone

 

[vitola1971]

hello, I'm wondering if anyone has the same problem I do. I bought alfaobd and obdlink mx+, I managed to set low beams to HID (have 35w HID's that I havent installed yet) I also set fog lamps to led and bought the morimoto 4banger kit for 2015 ram "plug and play", after installing the left one wont turn on and shows a fault (open circuit/short) but no bulb out notification, if I remove left and plug in a hologen it flashes like 4 times then goes out and the right led fog light now stays off showing the same code. . I will clear faults and plug back in the hologen bulbs to reconfirm they work. Anyone have trouble with a 2015 ram? mines limited with projector lamps.

thank you

 

[CanRebel]

Clear engine light OR find out why it's on.
So driving down the highway and RED electric warning came on and peddle was messing up.
I pulled over and turned OFF Peddle Commander, and checked the message. Something about Throttle (something) Needs servicing.
So came home and plugged in OBD and only warning I had was some weird light bulb out of something, so I CLEARED it thinking if it's a bulb it will come back on.
No additional warnings but engine light still stays on when starting the truck.
I have no drove it around yet since clearing the warnings but I'm wondering what all happened or where I can get more info?
If engine light DOESN'T go out in time, how do I use ALPHAOBD to find why it's on??? It would give me a code right?

I had a problem like that 2-3 weeks ago.

I wasn't driving. I started my truck, and as I was about to take off. It come up and truck went limp.

Unplugged PC, cleared the codes. Worked fine. Put PC back in. Never had issue before.
I'm not sure, but I think there was mobile software update. Not sure if that was related or not.

 

[vitola1971]

hello, I'm wondering if anyone has the same problem I do. I bought alfaobd and obdlink mx+, I managed to set low beams to HID (have 35w HID's that I havent installed yet) I also set fog lamps to led and bought the morimoto 4banger kit for 2015 ram "plug and play", after installing the left one wont turn on and shows a fault (open circuit/short) but no bulb out notification, if I remove left and plug in a hologen it flashes like 4 times then goes out and the right led fog light now stays off showing the same code. . I will clear faults and plug back in the hologen bulbs to reconfirm they work. Anyone have trouble with a 2015 ram? mines limited with projector lamps.

thank you

Turned out in the end to be a disconnected solder joint in the light itself I re-soldered it and its working fine now. I currently have BCM set to "LED fog lights present" no. The Morimoto 4Banger fog lights supposedly can plug right in so I'm going to run them as is and see if any faults pop up, also installed the HID 35w low beams. Wow, I can see

 

[icemanch]

I need a bit of help. All forums point to this thread as the best place to go. If there's a better place let me know.

I have a 07 Durango/Aspen that I swapped a Eagle Hemi into. I got the donor PCM from an 09 Ram 1500. Everything works except it has an error code for the Autostick circuit being high and the transmission won't shift into low gear. I've double checked and the BCM says AutoStick not set. Is there a setting the in the PCM I need to change too?

 

[rtodd1979]

newbie to AlphaOBD here. connected everything via android and obd mx+, trying to save current configuration but when i select upload faults and status logs it says that nothing exists? its a 2012 ram 2500 6.7. any help is appreciated, the truck is deleted and tuned with EFI live is that matters. all im really trying to do is get my TPMS working again. it was working then had my mechanic correct tire size when i had transmission rebuilt, now the TPMS just shows 0 on all four tires and the EVIC says maximum tire pressure and the light load tire pressure no longer works?

 

[Dean2]

newbie to AlphaOBD here. connected everything via android and obd mx+, trying to save current configuration but when i select upload faults and status logs it says that nothing exists? its a 2012 ram 2500 6.7. any help is appreciated, the truck is deleted and tuned with EFI live is that matters. all im really trying to do is get my TPMS working again. it was working then had my mechanic correct tire size when i had transmission rebuilt, now the TPMS just shows 0 on all four tires and the EVIC says maximum tire pressure and the light load tire pressure no longer works?

First you have to populate the report.

I already posted this in this very thread and it is posted quite a few other places. This info is one page back. The instructions that come with ALPHOBD also contain this info.

AlfaOBD

Got thinking about the TPMS limits. Before I changed them alpha said they were set at 65 rear and 60 front. I know from playing with tire pressure that I posted in another thread, that the low tire warning did not go off until tires were 20% below those. I am going to check how low I have to go...

www.ramforum.com

 

[Digitus78]

I thought my last save uploaded to google but it didnt. I was playing around with the light settings ....you know becuase i could lol. Well everything still works ok except when my rear doors are open my emergency lights stay on until they are closed. Im sure its just a courtesy feature but its annoying now. Everytime those doors open blink blink blink blink and people ask if i need help. Anyone know the settings to stop that?

 

[ThunderMug95]

I had a problem like that 2-3 weeks ago.

I wasn't driving. I started my truck, and as I was about to take off. It come up and truck went limp.

Unplugged PC, cleared the codes. Worked fine. Put PC back in. Never had issue before.
I'm not sure, but I think there was mobile software update. Not sure if that was related or not.

Same here. Happened once when I passed a State Trooper keying his radio mic. Truck went limp. Pulled over turn engine off, i carry a code reader and cleared it, cycled the PC and was good.

 

[rtodd1979]

First you have to populate the report.

I already posted this in this very thread and it is posted quite a few other places. This info is one page back. The instructions that come with ALPHOBD also contain this info.

AlfaOBD

Got thinking about the TPMS limits. Before I changed them alpha said they were set at 65 rear and 60 front. I know from playing with tire pressure that I posted in another thread, that the low tire warning did not go off until tires were 20% below those. I am going to check how low I have to go...

www.ramforum.com

I got that and i can view the status logs, however when i select tools and then select view status logs i get the error message stating the files aren't available. i took screenshots of all the logs but still can't upload them or email them.

 

[BoSox18]

*never mine figured it out.

 

[ffx2018]

I'm gonna program a set of keyfobs this weekend for the first time. I've got the mx+, security harness, and fobs, ill call for the pin code today.

I'm confused about the security harness. Does it stay plugged in forever? or just during the programming process.

 

[Dean2]

I'm gonna program a set of keyfobs this weekend for the first time. I've got the mx+, security harness, and fobs, ill call for the pin code today.

I'm confused about the security harness. Does it stay plugged in forever? or just during the programming process.

Depends on the cable. Mine, there are two pigtails that go into the Canbus and then a connector to the OBD port and another OBD connector to put the MX+ on. By diconnecting the one that goes to the factory OBD port I have effectively removed any impediment to the dealer using the OBD port. That was why I picked the Kaodtech cable versus the other versions that pug into the actual security module behind the radio. The ones that plug in behind the radio have to be removed if you want the dealer to have access to the OBD port and they are a lot more work to put in and take out.

Left is block 1, right is block 2
Plug the leads of the security module bypass into the CAN blocks.
RAM 1500
Lead with Green Connector
Plug into Block [2]
Lead with White Connector
Plug into Block [1] RAM 2500+
Lead Labeled White/Green
Plug into White/Green Block [2]
Lead Labeled Black/Green
Plug into Black/Green Block [1]
Note: If you are having difficulties accessing the CAN connectors, it is possible to remove the headlamp switch to gain better access to the connectors
5. Locate the OBD-II Connector [3].
Temporary Install
Plug the female end of the bypass harness into the factory OBD-II Connector. The bypass in now ready to use.

 

[ffx2018]

Depends on the cable. Mine, there are two pigtails that go into the Canbus and then a connector to the OBD port and another OBD connector to put the MX+ on. By diconnecting the one that goes to the factory OBD port I have effectively removed any impediment to the dealer using the OBD port. That was why I picked the Kaodtech cable versus the other versions that pug into the actual security module behind the radio. The ones that plug in behind the radio have to be removed if you want the dealer to have access to the OBD port and they are a lot more work to put in and take out.

Let me rephrase the question. I will need to install the security bypass to add a key fob. Once that fob has been programmed, I should be able to remove the bypass cable, and the fob will continue to function, correct?

That seems like the obvious scenario, which is confusing for me because I've heard other posts talk about leaving the cable in permanently. It just occurred to me now that the reason those guys might want to leave the cable in permanently is because they are altering their ECU on the fly and will continue to make changes; whereas guys like me who just want to add a fob to the body computer do so one time...

 

[Atcer2018]

Let me rephrase the question. I will need to install the security bypass to add a key fob. Once that fob has been programmed, I should be able to remove the bypass cable, and the fob will continue to function, correct?

That seems like the obvious scenario, which is confusing for me because I've heard other posts talk about leaving the cable in permanently. It just occurred to me now that the reason those guys might want to leave the cable in permanently is because they are altering their ECU on the fly and will continue to make changes; whereas guys like me who just want to add a fob to the body computer do so one time...

After you program the fobs they can be used with the bypass cable removed OR if you choose, leave it connected. Once programmed they will work either way. Dean2 was commenting on the value of the kaod cable which can be left connected without interfering with any diy, dealer or repair shop diagnostics. I use the kaod cable which I leave permanently connected in my 2018. I’ve been to the dealer twice for warranty work and they have never even mentioned the bypass cable. But as for your question, you can leave it connected or remove it as it won’t change the use of programmed fobs.

 

[G-Ride990]

After you program the fobs they can be used with the bypass cable removed OR if you choose, leave it connected. Once programmed they will work either way. Dean2 was commenting on the value of the kaod cable which can be left connected without interfering with any diy, dealer or repair shop diagnostics. I use the kaod cable which I leave permanently connected in my 2018. I’ve been to the dealer twice for warranty work and they have never even mentioned the bypass cable. But as for your question, you can leave it connected or remove it as it won’t change the use of programmed fobs.

I don't need one for my truck but I have installed a few in my buddies trucks that do. They have left them installed for years without any issues. I'd just leave it if it were me.

 

[ffx2018]

I cant find the thing to plug the thing into. My underdash computer doesn't look like the other ones I've seen.

This is by the driver left knee.



And what I was hoping to plug in

 

[ffx2018]

I see Koadtech has a different looking bypass harness. If someone can confirm I'm supposed to have that one I'll order it and return the above red one.

Security Module Bypass | KaodTech

If you have a 2018+ RAM and would like to perform diagnostics or make changes to the modules of your truck using tools like AlfaOBD or AutoEngenuity, this bypass is for you.Does this allow access to all modules?It has been tested connecting to the BCM and RFH. Since it bypasses the security...

www.kaodtech.com

 

[Dean2]

I see Koadtech has a different looking bypass harness. If someone can confirm I'm supposed to have that one I'll order it and return the above red one.

Security Module Bypass | KaodTech

If you have a 2018+ RAM and would like to perform diagnostics or make changes to the modules of your truck using tools like AlfaOBD or AutoEngenuity, this bypass is for you.Does this allow access to all modules?It has been tested connecting to the BCM and RFH. Since it bypasses the security...

www.kaodtech.com

I have the Kaodtech in my 2021 Ram 2500 6.4 gas. It works perfectly and does not have to be removed, just unplug it from the OBD port if you want the dealer to do something. I have no idea what harness is in the first picture you posted, but it looks like the kind that attaches behind the radio.

 

[Heathen-19]

I cant find the thing to plug the thing into. My underdash computer doesn't look like the other ones I've seen.

This is by the driver left knee.

View attachment 523221

And what I was hoping to plug in


View attachment 523222

This looks like the same cable I have installed from Z Automotive. It’s a SGW Extension Cable. It is not a security bi-pass cable.
I have the Kaodtech bi-pass cable and it plugs into blocks near the steering column on my 1500

Edit: after checking my records the red end cable is a by-pass cable that didn’t work for me and I used the Kaodtech because of it not working. Sorry for the confusion.