Anyone try Modifystreet headlights?

[wvmountaineer]

Thanks, thats what I was looking for. I know Alfa at least HELPS in regards to lighting, but if it fixes the "issues" then even better.

I guess I just assume everyone has AlfaOBD by now and no one needs anti flicker, CAN adapters or resistors anymore

Not true, even setting to led fogs in alfa, I still had to use the resistors for both lights to work. Without the resistors, only one light was full bright, the drivers side was way dim(and yes the connections were checked). Hooked the resistors back up, and both lights worked properly. These were morimoto verticals BTW.

 

[rotwiler]

I did a quick video of what it looks like at night, not great video. This is with the H7 bulbs that they come with, not hid.

 

[chrisbh17]

Those DRLs look pretty powerful!

 

[1500ram12]

Not true, even setting to led fogs in alfa, I still had to use the resistors for both lights to work. Without the resistors, only one light was full bright, the drivers side was way dim(and yes the connections were checked). Hooked the resistors back up, and both lights worked properly. These were morimoto verticals BTW.

I'm running some cheap Amazon led pods without any issues as fogs and all I did was set fogs to led


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[rotwiler]

Those DRLs look pretty powerful!

Ya, plenty bright for me.

 

[Jimmy07]

Anyone know, if i buy a anti flicker module and find one that can match up to this wire harness, will I be ok using it outside the lights in line, since I will only possibly get low beams, would the antiflicker mess with the halogen in high beams. Also does anyone know what this connector is. Like is it a 9008 or? I seen some pre wired with connectors, would be nice to just plug in.

View attachment 159994 pre wired ones I seen that look about right.

View attachment 159995

@rotwiler, can you explain to us what’s going on with this connector (red arrow), and this hole (circled in blue)?

I can’t remember exactly how the factory quad headlights are arranged with the two connectors. I’m guessing that you remove the factory parking light bulb from the base, plug the connector that the red arrow is pointing to into the base, clock the base into the hole that is circled in blue, and plug the truck harness connector into the bulb base connector, correct? I just want to make sure, since now I have projectors, I don’t have that bulb base anymore, and I need to know what to order for my conversion harness.

 

[1500ram12]

@rotwiler, can you explain to us what’s going on with this connector (red arrow), and this hole (circled in blue)?

I can’t remember exactly how the factory quad headlights are arranged with the two connectors. I’m guessing that you remove the factory parking light bulb from the base, plug the connector that the red arrow is pointing to into the base, clock the base into the hole that is circled in blue, and plug the truck harness connector into the bulb base connector, correct? I just want to make sure, since now I have projectors, I don’t have that bulb base anymore, and I need to know what to order for my conversion harness.

Quad factory set up has two connectors that are similar. H13 looking. One for parking/turn and one for lows/highs. It looks like the one actual connector on these headlights is for park/turn and the one in question is for the headlights and drl's. But I have no idea how those connect to the truck unless there is something on the drl harness that comes with the headlights

From what I understand the hole is for use if you have factory enabled drl's. I'm guessing there is a connection on that harness the goes into the headlights and connects to the drl.


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[Jimmy07]

Quad factory set up has two connectors that are similar. H13 looking. One for parking/turn and one for lows/highs. It looks like the one actual connector on these headlights is for park/turn and the one in question is for the headlights and drl's. But I have no idea how those connect to the truck unless there is something on the drl harness that comes with the headlights

From what I understand the hole is for use if you have factory enabled drl's. I'm guessing there is a connection on that harness the goes into the headlights and connects to the drl.


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I’m kinda thinking (hoping) it’s the opposite. Since I can’t find my original quad truck harness, I’m just going off of faint memory- one of the connector harness length is shorter than the other, and, if I remember, the shorter length connector is the one for lows/highs. The parking light bulb for the quads is a 3157 (both park and turn). That hole that I have circled in blue *kinda* looks like it’s keyed for a 3157 bulb socket. I can’t remember, but can you confirm for me if the entire parking light bulb socket can be removed directly from the back of the quad headlight housing? If so, that will confirm what I’m thinking that the parking light bulb gets removed from the socket, and that connector that I have the red arrow pointing to gets plugged into the bulb socket. Then, the connector that the yellow arrow is pointing to gets plugged into the high beam/low beam truck connector.


It sucks trying to figure this out for harness parts without having neither the quad headlights or the new headlights in hand!

 

[1500ram12]

I’m kinda thinking (hoping) it’s the opposite. Since I can’t find my original quad truck harness, I’m just going off of faint memory- one of the connector harness length is shorter than the other, and, if I remember, the shorter length connector is the one for lows/highs. The parking light bulb for the quads is a 3157 (both park and turn). That hole that I have circled in blue *kinda* looks like it’s keyed for a 3157 bulb socket. I can’t remember, but can you confirm for me if the entire parking light bulb socket can be removed directly from the back of the quad headlight housing? If so, that will confirm what I’m thinking that the parking light bulb gets removed from the socket, and that connector that I have the red arrow pointing to gets plugged into the bulb socket. Then, the connector that the yellow arrow is pointing to gets plugged into the high beam/low beam truck connector.


It sucks trying to figure this out for harness parts without having neither the quad headlights or the new headlights in hand!

The harness(closest to the outside of truck) is the park/turn and the other is the low/high. (Can't remember off hand which is longer) Yes the bulb socket for the park/turn can be unplugged from the harness and removed from the headlight housing, it's a 3157.

Definitely. Mine will be here Friday. If I have time tomorrow I will pull a headlight out and take some pics of the connectors. The h13 pig tail I ordered is at my parents house (I have everything sent there) and won't be able to get it until Monday unless they are coming into town tomorrow. I have the quad connectors used for the projector adapters so I would be able to confirm if they fit


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[Jimmy07]

Yes the bulb socket for the park/turn can be unplugged from the harness and removed from the headlight housing, it's a 3157.
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Sounds good. I’ll have to order a pair of 3157 socket pigtails since I don’t have the quads to take them out of.

 

[Jimmy07]

It sucks how they did that with the turn/park light connector socket. They should’ve just had the actual connector that gets plugged into the truck connector coming out of the housing just like the other one. The way they have it, you have to rob a part off of the quad housings, so now, if you go to sell the quads, they will be incomplete.

 

[1500ram12]

It sucks how they did that with the turn/park light connector socket. They should’ve just had the actual connector that gets plugged into the truck connector coming out of the housing just like the other one. The way they have it, you have to rob a part off of the quad housings, so now, if you go to sell the quads, they will be incomplete.

That's what happened to me on my 2015. Bought tyc projectors and Sold my quads. Then when I traded it in I bought a cheap pair of eBay lights to put back after selling the projectors. I had to have the dealer order the sockets.


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[rotwiler]

Think that black wire in photo is one that plugs into your socket for turn signal(where bulb used to be) , then screws into hole like the normal turn signal bulb on the lights. Only a red wire was coming out of the back as far as I can remember.

 

[rotwiler]

New sockets are $12-25 on ebay, just doing a quick look.

 

[Famous_Hemi]

I love the way they look but I’m having a hard time getting the right turn signal to keep working. They work about 50% of the time. When I get the light out message, I check to see if they’re working because I know the canbus system is “sensitive” and they don’t work sometimes. I might be trying a resistor to see if that helps.

 

[chrisbh17]

Is that with their HID kit?

Any pics of the wiring?

 

[Famous_Hemi]

Is that with their HID kit?

Any pics of the wiring?

I bought the HID kit but wanted to check out how the halogen bulbs looked before I cut into the dust cap. I don’t have any pics of the wiring yet but since I’ll be taking it apart again once I get the resistors, I’ll be sure to get a pic or two.

 

[Jimmy07]

Any pics of the wiring?

Alright, here they are, caps off and all-

There’s 2” clearance from the low beam bulb base to back of cover, and 3” clearance for the high beam. There’s no way that ANY hid ballast will fit inside.

Pretty simple- blue circled connector gets plugged into the high/low/ground truck connector. Red circled connector gets plugged into the parking bulb socket (which gets removed from the quad housing and installed into the hole on these lights). Red wire is for DRLs, and since I had the projector harness, I plugged it into the dedicated DRL wire. I ordered mine straight from alpharex and these did NOT come with the DRL harness. Not that I care, as I wasn’t gonna use it anyway, but I’m pretty sure it’s just a regular relay- battery positive, ground, and trigger (whatever you want to use that will be hot when you want the DRLs on). From what others have posted about the turn signals and from what I just tested, these things need resistors for the parking lights and turn signals. When the lights are not on, the turn signals have a hard time keeping rhythm, and eventually they’ll give up and throw the turn signal out warning (probably because of the PWM). Next key cycle, they’ll be fine again, then it’ll start all over. When the lights are on and you hit the turn signal, because the white parking light drops out for the signal, the truck throws a parking light out error. This was all corrected by using the alfa to enable LED turns and parking lights, but for those that don’t have the alfa, plan on using resistors. For those that currently have projectors and want these, making the harness is simple and cheap, and no resistors will be needed because projector trucks are already set up for led turns and parking lights. I’ll make a how to post with a drawing and part numbers for the harness in a bit.

I’ll be opening these up this weekend to do some painting and turn signal switchbacks, so for those that are wondering, it looks like the same type of sealant as factory projectors, and it’s got the same channels and clips.

One other thing I noticed, the low beam shutter is fixed, so it doesn’t drop when the high beams are on.

 

[1500ram12]

Alright, here they are, caps off and all-

There’s 2” clearance from the low beam bulb base to back of cover, and 3” clearance for the high beam. There’s no way that ANY hid ballast will fit inside.

Pretty simple- blue circled connector gets plugged into the high/low/ground truck connector. Red circled connector gets plugged into the parking bulb socket (which gets removed from the quad housing and installed into the hole on these lights). Red wire is for DRLs, and since I had the projector harness, I plugged it into the dedicated DRL wire. I ordered mine straight from alpharex and these did NOT come with the DRL harness. Not that I care, as I wasn’t gonna use it anyway, but I’m pretty sure it’s just a regular relay- battery positive, ground, and trigger (whatever you want to use that will be hot when you want the DRLs on). From what others have posted about the turn signals and from what I just tested, these things need resistors for the parking lights and turn signals. When the lights are not on, the turn signals have a hard time keeping rhythm, and eventually they’ll give up and throw the turn signal out warning (probably because of the PWM). Next key cycle, they’ll be fine again, then it’ll start all over. When the lights are on and you hit the turn signal, because the white parking light drops out for the signal, the truck throws a parking light out error. This was all corrected by using the alfa to enable LED turns and parking lights, but for those that don’t have the alfa, plan on using resistors. For those that currently have projectors and want these, making the harness is simple and cheap, and no resistors will be needed because projector trucks are already set up for led turns and parking lights. I’ll make a how to post with a drawing and part numbers for the harness in a bit.

I’ll be opening these up this weekend to do some painting and turn signal switchbacks, so for those that are wondering, it looks like the same type of sealant as factory projectors, and it’s got the same channels and clips.

One other thing I noticed, the low beam shutter is fixed, so it doesn’t drop when the high beams are on.

Good to know. I'm definitely interested in seeing what they used for the led turn signal board if it's going to be a match to what's currently in the oem projectors now or if it's completely different. Mine won't be here until Friday and don't know when I'll have a chance to mess with them. Definitely want to know just how hard they will be to open up.

Did you get the drl to function in your test? I plan adding the drl wiring to my truck soon (should have the rest of the pins later this week) and would like to adapt it to work with these lights

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[chrisbh17]

Alright, here they are, caps off and all-

There’s 2” clearance from the low beam bulb base to back of cover, and 3” clearance for the high beam. There’s no way that ANY hid ballast will fit inside.

Pretty simple- blue circled connector gets plugged into the high/low/ground truck connector. Red circled connector gets plugged into the parking bulb socket (which gets removed from the quad housing and installed into the hole on these lights). Red wire is for DRLs, and since I had the projector harness, I plugged it into the dedicated DRL wire. I ordered mine straight from alpharex and these did NOT come with the DRL harness. Not that I care, as I wasn’t gonna use it anyway, but I’m pretty sure it’s just a regular relay- battery positive, ground, and trigger (whatever you want to use that will be hot when you want the DRLs on). From what others have posted about the turn signals and from what I just tested, these things need resistors for the parking lights and turn signals. When the lights are not on, the turn signals have a hard time keeping rhythm, and eventually they’ll give up and throw the turn signal out warning (probably because of the PWM). Next key cycle, they’ll be fine again, then it’ll start all over. When the lights are on and you hit the turn signal, because the white parking light drops out for the signal, the truck throws a parking light out error. This was all corrected by using the alfa to enable LED turns and parking lights, but for those that don’t have the alfa, plan on using resistors. For those that currently have projectors and want these, making the harness is simple and cheap, and no resistors will be needed because projector trucks are already set up for led turns and parking lights. I’ll make a how to post with a drawing and part numbers for the harness in a bit.

I’ll be opening these up this weekend to do some painting and turn signal switchbacks, so for those that are wondering, it looks like the same type of sealant as factory projectors, and it’s got the same channels and clips.

One other thing I noticed, the low beam shutter is fixed, so it doesn’t drop when the high beams are on.

Are you going to add an HiD kit or led bulbs?

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