Boost a Pump install, which is the Fuel Pump Power wire?

[James OBrien]

Hey folks. Trying to install a boost a pump on my 2018, Ram 1500 Sport. I can't find a wiring diagram for this truck anywhere, I even have the expensive service manual and it doesn't have wiring diagrams. Anyone know which wire coming into the fuse box is the fuel pump positive? I will pop off the fuse box and try to figure out which pin on the relay it is, was hoping someone knew.

 

[James OBrien]

View attachment 181803 View attachment 181804 View attachment 181805 View attachment 181806 View attachment 181803 View attachment 181804 View attachment 181805 View attachment 181806 Nevermind, figured it out on my own. Found a forum posting on a hellcat forum, looks like it uses the same 'Power Distribution Center' (PDC) fusebox as the Ram, at least the part where you get power to the fuel pump.

For those that decide to do this on their own, here's what I did.

The Kenne Bell Boost a Pump comes standard from a couple of sites online ready/retrofitted with some sort of micro-fuse setup where it takes the fuse and creates a convenient plug in adapter. I elected to get a generic splice kit, don't really trust going in the top through the fuse box. On this forum: https://www.hellcat.org/threads/boost-a-pump-wiring.18853/

Found a drawing from a BAP install that matches our trucks, I think 14 and up.

Took the PDC out of its plastic box housing and removed the cover, and was able to pretty easily remove the connector with all wires that plugs into the back, really similar to how you disconnect the PCM cable connector. It also happens to hook up right behind the fuse bank that has fuse 70, the fuel pump motor fuse.

The wire is a 'DB/OR', or Dark Blue with Orange stripe. Cut it and spliced in the BAP. There's a really convenient ground located on the fender right at the top of the PDC, so just tapped in there for the ground. Fired right up. Once my supercharger is in I'll hook up the BAP 3# pressure switch.

There's so much room under the PDC in the box that I just located the BAP module in there. Will keep an eye on it for any excess heat.

Good news is the fuel pump wire was stouter than I thought it would be, appears to be a 14 gauge. The BAP power in and power out cables are 12, did a heavy duty splice/solder job and used heat shrink to bundle it all up.

Pics:

 

[tones2SS]

Just curious, why are you running a BAP?
Are you running a power adder?

 

[ScLeCo]

What part number BAP did you use? And yeah, why?

 

[James OBrien]

I picked up a pretty cheap KB BAP, part number #KB-89069. It's designed with a quick connect to work with a mustang, so had to cut off the connector but it was $30 bucks cheaper on the site so worth it. Bought it from LMR.com.

I've got a torqstorm supercharger ready to install, just waiting on Jay to get back into his shop and get the base tune for it ready. He had recommended a DW400 fuel pump, which I tried installing and modding the stock fuel pump basket, but the way things are setup with the stock basket you end up having to cut out things like the built in pressure regulator, and my truck ran poorly. Rather than continue messing with it, seems like the stock pump is basically able to provide the fuel pressure/flow I need and seeing how so many kits use this BAP, thought it'd be a bit easier to manage. I'm only going to run 6 pounds with my stock pistons. I have the MAP sensor and injectors also ready to go that Jay recommended, and the intercooler is mounted/ready to go also.

 

[Wild one]

I picked up a pretty cheap KB BAP, part number #KB-89069. It's designed with a quick connect to work with a mustang, so had to cut off the connector but it was $30 bucks cheaper on the site so worth it. Bought it from LMR.com.

I've got a torqstorm supercharger ready to install, just waiting on Jay to get back into his shop and get the base tune for it ready. He had recommended a DW400 fuel pump, which I tried installing and modding the stock fuel pump basket, but the way things are setup with the stock basket you end up having to cut out things like the built in pressure regulator, and my truck ran poorly. Rather than continue messing with it, seems like the stock pump is basically able to provide the fuel pressure/flow I need and seeing how so many kits use this BAP, thought it'd be a bit easier to manage. I'm only going to run 6 pounds with my stock pistons. I have the MAP sensor and injectors also ready to go that Jay recommended, and the intercooler is mounted/ready to go also.

Curious on how the Torqstorm pans out.Keep us updated on the install and your thoughts on the power output James.

 

[ScLeCo]

Yeah I bought a new basket to hack up so if it doesn't work out I'll still have my stock one I can put back in. I cannot find a good write up anywhere on modifying the stock basket for an aftermarket pump. I know people are doing it but I cannot find directions on how.

 

[Wild one]

Yeah I bought a new basket to hack up so if it doesn't work out I'll still have my stock one I can put back in. I cannot find a good write up anywhere on modifying the stock basket for an aftermarket pump. I know people are doing it but I cannot find directions on how.

Check out Kurtis's build thread,i know somewhere in it,he has pic's of modifying his basket to get dual pumps into it.

https://www.ramforum.com/threads/charonblk07s-build-thread.39221/

 

[tones2SS]

I've never heard of this brand of supercharger. Kinda reminds me of a Procharger.
How much power and torque does it guarantee with a tune?

 

[Tach_tech]

If you’re only running 6lbs the BAP isn’t really necessary. The stock pump is more than adequate at that level, unless you’re going e85. I’m running about 8lbs on my whipple kit and the stock pump has no issues providing the pressure/volume.

 

[James OBrien]

I really thought hard about leaving it alone and had read in a lot of places that with only 6-8 pounds of boost the stock pump could handle it. What got me a bit more paranoid was when I installed my wide-band gauge and could see the effects of WOT and fuel delivery, couldn't imagine running it up to 6,500 RPM and having a fuel pump not have enough oomph to protect the engine, especially with bigger injectors. I've been working with Jay Greene pretty much and deferred to his judgement on adding a bigger pump, when that didn't work out like I'd hoped I ended up just doing the BAP for extra insurance.

It is pretty similar to the pro-charger from what I can see, although from what I've read it kicks in a little lower. I have a buddy who installed on on his mustang and it is a pretty straightforward setup that gave him roughly 150 more HP, but he also ran it at 10. I don't expect that much, I'd be happy with another 90-100. Until I do some drop in pistons and rods next year I won't push it too hard and just hope to not blow my motor up until then!

With the intercooler, BAP, intercooler tubing, gauges, MAP, injectors and other misc pieces I'm probably all in for $4,500, and the Torqstorm comes with a decent warranty.

 

[MaxSteel2013]

I really thought hard about leaving it alone and had read in a lot of places that with only 6-8 pounds of boost the stock pump could handle it. What got me a bit more paranoid was when I installed my wide-band gauge and could see the effects of WOT and fuel delivery, couldn't imagine running it up to 6,500 RPM and having a fuel pump not have enough oomph to protect the engine, especially with bigger injectors. I've been working with Jay Greene pretty much and deferred to his judgement on adding a bigger pump, when that didn't work out like I'd hoped I ended up just doing the BAP for extra insurance.

It is pretty similar to the pro-charger from what I can see, although from what I've read it kicks in a little lower. I have a buddy who installed on on his mustang and it is a pretty straightforward setup that gave him roughly 150 more HP, but he also ran it at 10. I don't expect that much, I'd be happy with another 90-100. Until I do some drop in pistons and rods next year I won't push it too hard and just hope to not blow my motor up until then!

With the intercooler, BAP, intercooler tubing, gauges, MAP, injectors and other misc pieces I'm probably all in for $4,500, and the Torqstorm comes with a decent warranty.

How's this working out? The Torqstorm and the BAP

 

[James OBrien]

Thanks for asking! I bought a commuter car and haven't driven much lately so I've only put about 10,000 miles on the setup and so far so good. No fuel issues and the Torqstorm seems to have 'broken in'? if that's a thing, at least it sounds great, and I need to swap out the rear tires! One annoying thing about the torqstorm is that you have to change the oil in it every 10k, so I'm due, which means you have to pull the power head. The automatic tensioner setup is the only weak link/PITA to get just right, I had to shim it out one or two washers to get it perfectly aligned so I didn't throw belts. I'm waiting to get my new shop put up, corona has kept that project on hold, when I do I've got all the parts in to lower it a few inches and put beefier rear control arms and sway bars on, looking forward to seeing how it drives after that.

 

[Wild one]

Thanks for asking! I bought a commuter car and haven't driven much lately so I've only put about 10,000 miles on the setup and so far so good. No fuel issues and the Torqstorm seems to have 'broken in'? if that's a thing, at least it sounds great, and I need to swap out the rear tires! One annoying thing about the torqstorm is that you have to change the oil in it every 10k, so I'm due, which means you have to pull the power head. The automatic tensioner setup is the only weak link/PITA to get just right, I had to shim it out one or two washers to get it perfectly aligned so I didn't throw belts. I'm waiting to get my new shop put up, corona has kept that project on hold, when I do I've got all the parts in to lower it a few inches and put beefier rear control arms and sway bars on, looking forward to seeing how it drives after that.

If you're going to lower it,spring for the relocation brackets to.They bring the rear geometery back into spec. When lowered with stock brackets you basically point the instant center into the ground about 4 ft in front of the rear tires,and ideally you want the instant center to intersect somewhere around the middle of the truck,to generate body separation and help plant the tires.The Core arms are only a band-aid fix for wheel hop,they won't address the high speed sway issue you might encounter on a lowered regular cab shortbox.

 

[James OBrien]

Good suggestion, I'm confused on where/what brackets to buy because the ones everyone liked stopped being sold. What do you recommend?

 

[Wild one]

Good suggestion, I'm confused on where/what brackets to buy because the ones everyone liked stopped being sold. What do you recommend?

About all that's left are the Inez brackets,Illicit as far as I know is shut down now. Go for the "cut" versions,they are better then the "no cut" versions,even if you're only going down a couple inches on the rear.The no cut versions have issues

 

[James OBrien]

Gotcha, thanks! The rear end on the standard cab/shortbed is pretty squirrely, makes sense I guess with the unusual wheelbase setup. Hoping the stiffer arms and slight lowering will help.

 

[milkyway43]

Anyone done this on a 2011? Having some issues finding the correct wires to tag into. Had planned to use this thread as my guide and realized it said 14+

Thanks.

 

[MurderHemi]

This thread was very helpful. Finished my BAP install today.

 

[James OBrien]

Cool, glad it worked out! The BAP is still going strong for me, just finished buttoning up a 382 stroker in mine with the supercharger and am dialing in the tune with Jay currently. At WOT on a conservative tune it's still maxing out rich at 10 on the wideband, not sure what the injector pulse width is but the pump is delivering enough fuel... Must be over 500-550 RWHP at this point.