Brace yourselves....

[BigSloth]

Can you explain that a little more? When I'm at the track I got to shift into 4th just before the traps.

You're fine if you're NA. It's when you start pumping more torque through the trans that this becomes a problem.

He can explain it better I'm sure, but basically it has to do with power flow through the trans. I'm not sure how to explain it without drawing a picture

 

[BigSloth]

Alright. Got the wideband **** welded in, and the sensor installed and the gauge wired up. Just waiting on the gauge pod to show up to complete the install. I had to have the **** added after the cat, there was just no way to put it before without being too close to the heads and we couldn't get the welding gun in there. I spoke with a friend who has built many ford lightnings and still has 2, and he said that he has put his wideband on after the cat on before because of ford's design and it's still accurate enough.

Got the holes drilled for the bottle bracket, picked up some Teflon paste and a bunch of rubber grommets and wire loom to start the install of the nitrous. Now that I know that I can hide the bottle under the backseat, I'm toying with hiding the solenoids and lines. I think there is just enough room to hide them under the factory engine cover.

 

[Hdmlnium1]

Alright. Got the wideband **** welded in, and the sensor installed and the gauge wired up. Just waiting on the gauge pod to show up to complete the install. I had to have the **** added after the cat, there was just no way to put it before without being too close to the heads and we couldn't get the welding gun in there. I spoke with a friend who has built many ford lightnings and still has 2, and he said that he has put his wideband on after the cat on before because of ford's design and it's still accurate enough.

Got the holes drilled for the bottle bracket, picked up some Teflon paste and a bunch of rubber grommets and wire loom to start the install of the nitrous. Now that I know that I can hide the bottle under the backseat, I'm toying with hiding the solenoids and lines. I think there is just enough room to hide them under the factory engine cover.

Yes you can hide your solenoids and fuel/nitrous lines under the ram engine cover.
I am running a nozzle through a S&B CAI tube in the back about 1.5" higher than the cover.
What I did was use black electrical tape up tight to the intake tube and wrapped the whole nozzle all the way to where the lines connect to it. Then took some black wire loom and ran that from tight to the intake tube to about 6" past where the lines connect. Wrap the beginning middle and end with a little bit of black electrical tape.
Now to the fun part I had to put a slice in the engine cover about a inch or so wide to where the lines would fit under the cover with it still pushing into the two grommets. This took a little bit of time, measure, cut, test, measure, cut , test. Lol
When I finally got the cover to snap down in place with the lines no having pressure on them I filed the slices edges to make it look as factory as I could. Someone not really knowing what to look for would think it's another factory sensor wrapped in loom.
Hey, it works for me, I used the fuel rail adapter from my mustang and that worked great.
Only really things you could notice is the extra relay, two fusible links, and the NOS window switch, tips switch.
As long as you don't have the system armed when going through tech you don't even notice that. If it's armed they will spot it in a second though as it is a digital led read out.
Really, all and all it was pretty easy to hide it all. Mounted the solenoids front side of the fuel rail crossover. Covered it up, now looks N/A.
Bill

 

[BigSloth]

Progress. Bottle mounted, nice clean install. Feed line ran, completely hidden. Nitrous solenoid mounted, nice and out of the way under the engine cover.

 

[BigSloth]

Fits under the seat nice and doesn't touch

 

[BigSloth]

Solenoid mounted on fuel rail. The other one will follow suit on the other side. Ignore the feed line hastily strapped to the harness. I have a bunch of wire loom that I'm gonna wrap the line in then tape it to look like a harness. Right now it exits the cab under the seat next to the bottle, straight into the frame rail. It will be loomed to look like a harness. Then it exits the frame near the RF upper control arm mount, and enters loom and follows the EGI harness on top of the engine. Everything hides under cover

 

[Hemi450hp]

Looks great so far.

 

[BigSloth]

Thanks. I'm happy with the quality of the kit so far, except for one thing. The hardware. It's disappointing, actually. All the electrical connectors are the cheapest flimsy crap, none are weatherproof, and the brackets for the solenoids and WOT switch don't actually line up with any of the holes on the solenoids, had to extensively modify them to work. It's like the brackets are cut and drilled for larger solenoids? Because the giant hole in the center is nearly the diameter of these solenoids.

Other than that, the actual components appear top notch, good service and shipping from Matt as usual, and the kit is priced well enough that you can buy weatherproof solder sleeves and a nicer switch to use instead of what's supplied.

 

[Hemi450hp]

The X series is their economy kit, and does come with smaller solenoids than what they use in their plate kits. I'll have to double check the solenoid brackets though because I have installed the X series kit before, and there were correct mounting holes drilled last time I installed one. I will check tomorrow to see if they possibly put the wrong brackets in the kit. Those are cheap, and easy to replace, so if they messed up, I'll make sure we get a new set out for you.

 

[BigSloth]

I'll take a picture today to show what I mean. There's like 9 holes drilled in each one, but you can't actually get 2 of them to line up because they're all too far apart.

 

[BigSloth]

There are only 2 sets of holes that are even remotely close enough to mount these solenoids, both are the smallest holes. In this pic, I've lined up one hole and as you can see the other is too far away to line up.

In this one, it's too close together.

To remedy this, I actually used a small washer around one screw and just threaded it into the very large center hole, right up against the edge, and the washer pinches it enough to hold it.

 

[BigSloth]

Are NGK 3381 plugs an acceptable sub for denso 3381?

 

[Hdmlnium1]

Are NGK 3381 plugs an acceptable sub for denso 3381?

Not really sure, I went with the Denso 3381's .
Bill

 

[HammerHead]

I can't believe the hardwhere is so bad with that kit. The little things make a good product.

 

[BigSloth]

I honestly think they just put the wrong brackets in this kit. Matt said he was gonna look into it

 

[BigSloth]

Thanks to Matt for the answer via PM. For others wondering, no the NGK won't work. Need to use either the denso 3381 or the Brisk ER14S from Nitrous Outlet but they're expensive.

I was able to finally track down a set of denso 3381 today from car quest. Oreilly, advance, vato zone, all were claiming they either couldn't get them or they would take a week. Car quest had 16 in stock for 3.12 a plug.

 

[BigSloth]

From others running nitrous, I know for track purposes you need to swap to the colder plugs at the track. But let's say you find yourself needing to make just one little pull out on the street, would it hurt anything on the factory plugs?

 

[Hdmlnium1]

From others running nitrous, I know for track purposes you need to swap to the colder plugs at the track. But let's say you find yourself needing to make just one little pull out on the street, would it hurt anything on the factory plugs?

From what I have read if you install the Denso 3381's you DO NOT need to switch them out for a regular tune. You can leave them in and be able to switch just your tune from your nitrous file to your street file. Now if you install the Brisk plugs then YOU DO need to switch plugs back and forth for nitrous and na tunes.
The Denso plugs will be maxed out at your 150 shot, so if you decide to run more than 150 shot you would need to go to the better and much more expensive Brisk plugs.
I hope this helps..
Bill

 

[BigSloth]

Link ti what you read that said that? Because running a plug that's 3 steps colder on the street just sounds like a good way to foul out 65 bucks worth of spark plugs.

 

[charonblk07]

I wouldn't recommend running a big shot on stock plugs at any time, they hold a LOT of heat and the entire point of running the colder plugs is to prevent pre-ignition and dieseling. You will cook a set of stock plugs and have a crap load of detonation/knock running stock plugs on a big shot, guess how I know?

If you want to do a road trial just set up a 75 shot and you won't need to change plugs. Don't run the 3381s on the street unless you're running a higher compression or you will foul them in a hurry, mine still foul fairly quickly even with the blower heating everything up when daily driving.