Broken valve springs 2018 5.7 with only 75K??

[Wild one]

Mike watch both of these video's by Uncle Tony to.You watch all 3 video's and you'll understand why the high volumn oil pumps don't really do much for offsetting the fatal lifter issues the Gen 3 hemi's have.You're best bet is to up the idle rpm to 750+ and don't let the engine idle anymore then needed and as you've expounded for years adopt a good oil strategy

Gen 3 Hemi Camshaft Failure Mystery Explained!

Once we started digging into the Gen 3's mysterious cam and lifter issues we discovered a series of major design flaws within the construction of the block. ...

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A Closer Look At The Mopar Gen 3 Hemi And It's Often Fatal Flaw

Our first video concerning Mopar's Gen 3 Hemi's notorious camshaft and lifter failure phenomenon caused a lot of discussion and controversy. It has nothing ...

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[BlownGP]

So I guess I should have asked this in my first post.

Why did my valve spring break to begin with?
I've read about it in the facebook group but most have way more miles then me.

 

[Wild one]

Ok,
Same for the valve springs, valve and whatever else? all Mopar right?

Right now, the shop doesnt really seem like they want to mess with the cam.
So it's fix one side or do both sides.

Yes use OEM parts,you go down the rabbit hole of adding a hi-po cam/Ma Mopars high lift valve springs and tuning etc,and there's a good chance you'll have more issues down the road.Any cam that adds lift and duration,also puts more wear and tear on the valvetrain.
Throw in the fact you'll need long tube headers to get any real gains from an aftermarket hi-po cam,and do you really want to go down that rabbit hole on a daily driver truck

 

[Wild one]

So I guess I should have asked this in my first post.

Why did my valve spring break to begin with?
I've read about it in the facebook group but most have way more miles then me.

Valve springs are a wearable item,not only milege gets them,but also age.You only broke 1 spring and odds are you just got a dud spring,they are mass produced parts and every once inawhile a dud escapes and makes it into an engine

 

[Wild one]

No, you are right. I'm already looking at a 3-4K bill if not more. I just hate for half the motor be torn down and not upgrade anything but I guess I need to put my "modification" side away for now. lol.

I do already have a bypass cable btw.

Are you sure you have the right bypass cable,this is the one you need to read and write a tune to the 18+ trucks,it's not like an AlfaOBD cable,it's totally differant.

Dodge 2018+ Smart Access Cable – HP Tuners

View HP Tuners' Dodge Smart Access Cable, required for tuning all supported 2018+ Dodge / Jeep / RAM / Chrysler vehicles. Enables read, write, and special functions.

www.hptuners.com

 

[Burla]

So I guess I should have asked this in my first post.

Why did my valve spring break to begin with?
I've read about it in the facebook group but most have way more miles then me.

They work very hard, I know many people disagree with lifespan posts, but it is what it is. You in the south, I would expect the upper end as you hear a lot more issues in cold regions.

The lifespan of a valve spring in a car engine varies, but generally, they can last for a significant number of miles under normal driving conditions. A well-crafted valve spring, under normal driving conditions, should last for thousands of hours of engine operation. Expect to replace them between 100,000 to 150,000 kilometers (60,000 to 90,000 miles).

 

[BlownGP]

Are you sure you have the right bypass cable,this is the one you need to read and write a tune to the 18+ trucks,it's not like an AlfaOBD cable,it's totally differant.

Dodge 2018+ Smart Access Cable – HP Tuners

View HP Tuners' Dodge Smart Access Cable, required for tuning all supported 2018+ Dodge / Jeep / RAM / Chrysler vehicles. Enables read, write, and special functions.

www.hptuners.com

No you are right. I don't have that one.

Thanks for all help and insight guys. Makes me feel a little better. lol

 

[DILLIGAF]

Factory vs Real spring

Sound like upgrade time

 

[QwikKota]

Ya'll are trying to state the lifters don't get any oil when MDS is deactivated? Why would they design an engine that way? All you have to do to disable it is to put the transmission in 8th gear. Most people lock out 7th/8th gear when towing. No oil to the lifters that way? I don't see how that would be part of the design.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

Ya'll are trying to state the lifters don't get any oil when MDS is deactivated? Why would they design an engine that way? All you have to do to disable it is to put the transmission in 8th gear. Most people lock out 7th/8th gear when towing. No oil to the lifters that way? I don't see how that would be part of the design.

I too was of this mindset, until I dug deeper into our database and learned about all the nuances of how our 5.7 HEMI operates on every level.

The best recipe we can provide our engines is to utilize a top tier synthetic oil and filter strategy and OCI's that are not too long in duration (if one drives a lot on an annual basis).

 

[CanuckRam1313]

Ok,
Same for the valve springs, valve and whatever else? all Mopar right?

Right now, the shop doesnt really seem like they want to mess with the cam.
So it's fix one side or do both sides with MDS stuff.

My opinion on this is if you're going to set yourself up for longevity and dependability, do the whole job in its entirety.

This would consist of new OEM springs and lifters on both sides, and a new OEM cam, too.

I would not want to be in a situation where I did 60 to 70 % of the job and left out critical parts along the way. At the very least have the cam removed and thoroughly inspected. But, if you're going there, just replace the dang thing altogether and be done with it.

The other part of this equation (IMPO) would be to also have both the timing set and the oil pump replaced at this time as well.

Again, predictive and proactive approaches in these circumstances can net a better overall result. Plus, the shop is then "Fully Responsible" for the entire job, and should something occur down the road, they can't say you didn't do the cam, timing set and/or oil pump.

It is a very easy escape plan for any shop to deflect and defend on the premise that one only did a portion of a job and didn't address the other corresponding items in this chain of events that could/would result in potential failures down the road.

This is just my opinion though.

However, if a shop is also not competent in doing engine work that also consists of a cam replacement on a modern 5.7 HEMI engine and is attempting to stray from that, then you may want to look for a full service engine shop that can do the entire job, and warranty their work as well.

I hope it all gets sorted for you though and that you get the right end result that nets a continued great ownership/driving experience for you.

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

I like the way you think, Do the job right or not at all, can't afford to do it twice!!

 

[QwikKota]

I too was of this mindset, until I dug deeper into our database and learned about all the nuances of how our 5.7 HEMI operates on every level.

The best recipe we can provide our engines is to utilize a top tier synthetic oil and filter strategy and OCI's that are not too long in duration (if one drives a lot on an annual basis).

I have been driving my Ram with MDS disabled for many years and it hasn't crapped out yet.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

I have been driving my Ram with MDS disabled for many years and it hasn't crapped out yet.

So was I

It's a roll of the dice.

 

[QwikKota]

So was I

It's a roll of the dice.

Looking at some videos and images online, the oil is still fed through the pushrods to the top of the lifter no matter what the MDS is doing.

 

[Wild one]

Looking at some videos and images online, the oil is still fed through the pushrods to the top of the lifter no matter what the MDS is doing.

Yes the lifter plunger itself is getting oil,it's the lifter body that isn't,and it's the little bit of oil that gets past the lifter body,that hopefully is the oil that makes it to the lifter roller.I'm sure by now you've watched Re-Ignited's video on the mds system,if not it's worth watching. Burla has posted a link to it in this thread already in post 19. Well worth spending the 16 minutes to watch it completely.

 

[BlownGP]

My opinion on this is if you're going to set yourself up for longevity and dependability, do the whole job in its entirety.

This would consist of new OEM springs and lifters on both sides, and a new OEM cam, too.

I would not want to be in a situation where I did 60 to 70 % of the job and left out critical parts along the way. At the very least have the cam removed and thoroughly inspected. But, if you're going there, just replace the dang thing altogether and be done with it.

The other part of this equation (IMPO) would be to also have both the timing set and the oil pump replaced at this time as well.

Again, predictive and proactive approaches in these circumstances can net a better overall result. Plus, the shop is then "Fully Responsible" for the entire job, and should something occur down the road, they can't say you didn't do the cam, timing set and/or oil pump.

It is a very easy escape plan for any shop to deflect and defend on the premise that one only did a portion of a job and didn't address the other corresponding items in this chain of events that could/would result in potential failures down the road.

This is just my opinion though.

However, if a shop is also not competent in doing engine work that also consists of a cam replacement on a modern 5.7 HEMI engine and is attempting to stray from that, then you may want to look for a full service engine shop that can do the entire job, and warranty their work as well.

I hope it all gets sorted for you though and that you get the right end result that nets a continued great ownership/driving experience for you.

That's some great info. Thanks for all the info.

I might have a different shop do the work. It's a guy I know of but never met in person at least I don't think. lol
But we have a lot of mutual friends in the car world and he has a good rep working on vehicles for over 20 years. He's also worked on Hemis, LS, etc.
And has done cam swaps in them, hell even motor swaps too. So he made me feel more comfortable about the situation.

Like you said the shop It's at now seems like they just want to replace parts and go. I understand there is a lot of things to check for. clearances, tolerances etc.
I'm afraid there might be damage to the piston and/or piston bore too(more than likely) and they will just ask for more money. lol
Again never had work done at this shop, so don't want to be hard on them but I didn't feel like they would do a good job.

 

[BlownGP]

Yes the lifter plunger itself is getting oil,it's the lifter body that isn't,and it's the little bit of oil that gets past the lifter body,that hopefully is the oil that makes it to the lifter roller.I'm sure by now you've watched Re-Ignited's video on the mds system,if not it's worth watching. Burla has posted a link to it in this thread already in post 19. Well worth spending the 16 minutes to watch it completely.

So pretty much mds and non mds lifters don't get enough oil flow.
Oil flow is the problem?

 

[Burla]

Factory vs Real spring

Sound like upgrade time


View attachment 564622

Most of the time I like oem stuff for replacement, but in case of valve springs looking at something better seams like the play imo. As long as they have same spring rate as OEM.

 

[Wild one]

So pretty much mds and non mds lifters don't get enough oil flow.
Oil flow is the problem?

Not really,it's lack of crankshaft splash making it onto the cam lobes.When they redesigned the block in 09 for VVT,they moved the cam farther away from the crank and stuck the VVT tunnel under the cam,both contribute to less oil off the crank making it onto the lobes and lifter roller. The cam lobes and lifter roller are hung out in the open,if you pull the pan off,you can look up from the bottom of the engine and see the cam lobes.There is "No" pressurized oil fed to the lobes and the lifter roller,so you can hang the biggest oil pump you want on the end of the crank,and it still isn;t going to put more oil onto the lobes or the lifter roller.
Watch this video,and the 2 video's in post #21,and you'll know more about the crappy oiling system the hemi has,then most guys. This video by Powell Machining is very informative,and Uncle Tony's 2 videos in post #21 are also worth watching.

We look into the Hemi lifter failures and the dreaded Hemi tick

We unpack the lifter oiling issue that plague the late Hemi.Powellmachineinc.comIf you want to support us financially https://cash.app/$PowellMachine

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