Broken valve springs 2018 5.7 with only 75K??

[Wild one]

Most of the time I like oem stuff for replacement, but in case of valve springs looking at something better seams like the play imo. As long as they have same spring rate as OEM.

Ma Mopars 0.625 lift hi-po springs are a very good spring,and will handle a fairly big cam,and upwards of 7,000 rpm with no issues,and will live for along time.
I've been spinning them to 6600 rpm for going on 10 years and 700 nitrous fueled dragstrip passes,and they never once had issues with valve float,and i'm not exactly easy on parts,lol

 

[Burla]

Ma Mopars 0.625 lift hi-po springs are a very good spring,and will handle a fairly big cam,and upwards of 7,000 rpm with no issues,and will live for along time.
I've been spinning them to 6600 rpm for going on 10 years and 700 nitrous fueled dragstrip passes,and they never once had issues with valve float,and i'm not exactly easy on parts,lol

Since that is Mopar, is that off a higher performance hemi like the hellcat or something?

Needed a shim?

​

Installed Height 1.975” Requires a .015” Shim on stock 5.7. OEM installed height is 1.990”​

 

[Wild one]

These are the ones i had,they require a shim for the 6.4's,but not the 5.7's.I think SDC has that backasswards as the 6.4's are the ones that usually need the shim

P5160074 - Genuine Mopar Performance Valve Springs

MoparPartsGiant.com offers the wholesale price for genuine Mopar Accessories, P5160074. Performance Valve Springs for $221.48. All parts are backed by the Mopar's warranty.

www.moparpartsgiant.com

Product Specifications​

Performance Valve Springs - GEN III HEMI® (5.7L/6.4L) : Made from the same high-strength material as the valve springs found in the Dodge Viper, the Mopar® Performance Valve Spring was designed for high lift camshaft profiles (up to 0.625 lift) such as the Mopar® Performance 5.7L Cam (part number P5160018). This spring will work with the factory seats, retainers, and locks and require no shims or machining of the cylinder head (Shims required for 6.4L application).

 

[Mr300]

Sorry you are going through the broken valve spring. I've been there.
#5 exhaust.
I Replaced the valve spring and truck started and ran like new.
With the broken valve spring The engine always started and always ran. It just ran rough and not really drivable.

That leads to my question.

Can someone explain why BlownGP's truck had
"No lights or nothing on the dash. Wouldn't start back."

My broken valve spring never had any other symptom other than running rough.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

That's some great info. Thanks for all the info.

I might have a different shop do the work. It's a guy I know of but never met in person at least I don't think. lol
But we have a lot of mutual friends in the car world and he has a good rep working on vehicles for over 20 years. He's also worked on Hemis, LS, etc.
And has done cam swaps in them, hell even motor swaps too. So he made me feel more comfortable about the situation.

Like you said the shop It's at now seems like they just want to replace parts and go. I understand there is a lot of things to check for. clearances, tolerances etc.
I'm afraid there might be damage to the piston and/or piston bore too(more than likely) and they will just ask for more money. lol
Again never had work done at this shop, so don't want to be hard on them but I didn't feel like they would do a good job.

Perhaps pull the plugs and do a bore scope check first.
You'll know quickly if there are any piston / bore issues

As all here would say to you, if your gut isn't feeling like this is the shop to work with; Trust Your Gut Instincts, Period!

Pull your truck from the shop right away, do the scope checks and if all is okay, dig in for a cam, lifter, spring job that also includes the timing set and oil pump

 

[QwikKota]

Not really,it's lack of crankshaft splash making it onto the cam lobes.When they redesigned the block in 09 for VVT,they moved the cam farther away from the crank and stuck the VVT tunnel under the cam,both contribute to less oil off the crank making it onto the lobes and lifter roller. The cam lobes and lifter roller are hung out in the open,if you pull the pan off,you can look up from the bottom of the engine and see the cam lobes.There is "No" pressurized oil fed to the lobes and the lifter roller,so you can hang the biggest oil pump you want on the end of the crank,and it still isn;t going to put more oil onto the lobes or the lifter roller.
Watch this video,and the 2 video's in post #21,and you'll know more about the crappy oiling system the hemi has,then most guys. This video by Powell Machining is very informative,and Uncle Tony's 2 videos in post #21 are also worth watching.

We look into the Hemi lifter failures and the dreaded Hemi tick

We unpack the lifter oiling issue that plague the late Hemi.Powellmachineinc.comIf you want to support us financially https://cash.app/$PowellMachine

www.youtube.com

So where does the oil go after it enters the top of the lifter? Is it just a dead end to pressurize the lifter? I can't find a cutaway picture of a non-MDS lifter.

 

[Wild one]

So where does the oil go after it enters the top of the lifter? Is it just a dead end to pressurize the lifter? I can't find a cutaway picture of a non-MDS lifter.

Yup,how do you think it pumps up the piston inside the lifter body.The lifter is pressurized and doesn't allow any real leakage to speak of,otherwise the piston inside the lifter body would never overcome the pressure from the valve springs

 

[Yardbird]

As stated above, trust your gut on the shop. I usually do all my own work on all engines, including big over the road diesel truck engines.

I was in a situation where I needed a complete O/H of a big diesel engine I didn't have a place, time, or equipment to do. I didn't feel right inside about the shop, even though they had lots of experience with that particular engine.

My gut was right. Nothing but problems from the time I picked the truck up. If I had the place and equipment they had, I could have done it myself much better. The engine didn't make it 50 miles before I was sitting beside the interstate.

After that repair, I was back in the shop after the first trip, with a complete teardown and half axx fix that time.

Multiple more trips to the shop after that to have them fix what they messed up until I finally sold the truck, hoping and thinking the truck was finally fixed.

Nope.....The new owner got appx 30 days out of it before the whole engine crapped the bed.

He knew the score going in, and took a chance by buying the truck as/is at a good price. We both lost on that truck.

 

[QwikKota]

Yup,how do you think it pumps up the piston inside the lifter body.The lifter is pressurized and doesn't allow any real leakage to speak of,otherwise the piston inside the lifter body would never overcome the pressure from the valve springs

Jeez. I was hoping there was a weep hole or something at the bottom side that let oil go onto the roller/cam.

 

[Wild one]

Jeez. I was hoping there was a weep hole or something at the bottom side that let oil go onto the roller/cam.

Nope,lol. Johnson lifters have axle oiling,but to run them you need the hellcat or melling pump,as they create an internal oil leak that drops pressure. I don't know of anybody who's actually using them in a daily driver and has put a 100,000 miles on a set,the only guys running the Johnsons are guys who are running a fairly radical combination,and the engine gets refreshed every year or 2

 

[QwikKota]

Nope,lol. Johnson lifters have axle oiling,but to run them you need the hellcat or melling pump,as they create an internal oil leak that drops pressure. I don't know of anybody who's actually using them in a daily driver and has put a 100,000 miles on a set,the only guys running the Johnsons are guys who are running a fairly radical combination,and the engine gets refreshed every year or 2

I'm not messing with mine since I have the MaxCare warranty but disappointing to hear. Even if you let MDS do it's thing, that is only have the lifters getting more oil. Maybe I am wrong on that. I am not a big fan of MDS in the city which is primarily where I drive, unfortunately.

 

[Wild one]

I'm not messing with mine since I have the MaxCare warranty but disappointing to hear. Even if you let MDS do it's thing, that is only have the lifters getting more oil. Maybe I am wrong on that. I am not a big fan of MDS in the city which is primarily where I drive, unfortunately.

Drive it like you're 18 again,then it won't go into mds mode,and there's enough oil being flung around the inside of the crankcase to keep the lifters and cam lubed,lol. Babying a Hemi is about the worst thing you can do to it,keep the rpms up,and it'll live for along time,

 

[QwikKota]

Drive it like you're 18 again,then it won't go into mds mode,and there's enough oil being flung around the inside of the crankcase to keep the lifters and cam lubed,lol. Babying a Hemi is about the worst thing you can do to it,keep the rpms up,and it'll live for along time,

I don't baby it but gas and tires aren't free, hah.

 

[Wild one]

I don't baby it but gas and tires aren't free, hah.

One of the best ways to drive a hemi,is use the buttons and manually shift it,that way you don't have to floor it,but you can run it up to roughly 2800/3,000 rpm,then upshift it,instead of letting the truck make the short shifts they're famous for if your just driving it easy

 

[BlownGP]

Not really,it's lack of crankshaft splash making it onto the cam lobes.When they redesigned the block in 09 for VVT,they moved the cam farther away from the crank and stuck the VVT tunnel under the cam,both contribute to less oil off the crank making it onto the lobes and lifter roller. The cam lobes and lifter roller are hung out in the open,if you pull the pan off,you can look up from the bottom of the engine and see the cam lobes.There is "No" pressurized oil fed to the lobes and the lifter roller,so you can hang the biggest oil pump you want on the end of the crank,and it still isn;t going to put more oil onto the lobes or the lifter roller.
Watch this video,and the 2 video's in post #21,and you'll know more about the crappy oiling system the hemi has,then most guys. This video by Powell Machining is very informative,and Uncle Tony's 2 videos in post #21 are also worth watching.

We look into the Hemi lifter failures and the dreaded Hemi tick

We unpack the lifter oiling issue that plague the late Hemi.Powellmachineinc.comIf you want to support us financially https://cash.app/$PowellMachine

www.youtube.com

Thanks for the info.

I stopped by the shop where it's at. I got to talked the owner some more, he's a cool guy there's no doubt "HE" knows about motors.
He's been drag racing for over 40 years, actually is a Mustang guy. lol
But he called before saying it's going to over $5500 to pull both heads and change out the lifters, the broken valve. Doesn't even include new springs are anything.
I told him that's just too much. I feel like he's way over charging me for labor.

So he has the new valve spring in. So he's going to put it back together and he said I could drive it. It's just going to have a light miss at idle.
I'm waiting to hear back from the other performance guy shop. To see what his quote is going to be.

or drive that B***** to carmax and sell it. hahaah

 

[BlownGP]

As stated above, trust your gut on the shop. I usually do all my own work on all engines, including big over the road diesel truck engines.

I was in a situation where I needed a complete O/H of a big diesel engine I didn't have a place, time, or equipment to do. I didn't feel right inside about the shop, even though they had lots of experience with that particular engine.

My gut was right. Nothing but problems from the time I picked the truck up. If I had the place and equipment they had, I could have done it myself much better. The engine didn't make it 50 miles before I was sitting beside the interstate.

After that repair, I was back in the shop after the first trip, with a complete teardown and half axx fix that time.

Multiple more trips to the shop after that to have them fix what they messed up until I finally sold the truck, hoping and thinking the truck was finally fixed.

Nope.....The new owner got appx 30 days out of it before the whole engine crapped the bed.

He knew the score going in, and took a chance by buying the truck as/is at a good price. We both lost on that truck.

That's exactly where I am at now.

I feel like I am going to be on edge after it's fixed thinking something is going to break.
I wish it was cheaper to pull the one head off, change the valve and roll it.

Then sell it and get something, even though I love this truck. You won't find many in this color

 

[Wild one]

That's exactly where I am at now.

I feel like I am going to be on edge after it's fixed thinking something is going to break.
I wish it was cheaper to pull the one head off, change the valve and roll it.

Then sell it and get something, even though I love this truck. You won't find many in this color

View attachment 564763

Trucks in nice enough shape to throw an engine in. You should be able to pick up a low milege 5.7 and throw it in for the $5500 he was going to charge you to fix it

 

[Dusty]

Nice looking truck!!

Unless one can be sure of the where the used engine came from and how many miles, I would avoid one.

Yes, it's more expensive, but I'd consider a new reman block from Mopar. Keeping the current engine architecture has two distinct benefits: no turbo and no direct injection. Modern engine designs can present enough problems, maintaining a normally asperated engine design can limit them.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 129640 miles.

 

[QwikKota]

One of the best ways to drive a hemi,is use the buttons and manually shift it,that way you don't have to floor it,but you can run it up to roughly 2800/3,000 rpm,then upshift it,instead of letting the truck make the short shifts they're famous for if your just driving it easy

Pedal commander and Edge Pulsar (15hp mode) make it drivable. When I take that crap off to take it to the dealer I hate the truck. Love it when it's all back on.

 

[Burla]

Crate engine and the right shop, you get a 36 Mon warranty or more, just saying. What would you replace it with?

Then you could get a non MDS engine with MDS never in it.