Bubbles coming from side of radiator

[shon914]

Was changing my headlight bulbs and noticed a leak from the driver side radiator area under the hood. Brownish liquid with not much odor. No issues (yet) with overheating. Then with the engine running, I spotted some small bubbles coming from the side of the radiator. I recorded a video of it but can't figure out how to post it here so here's a photo for now.



Has anyone dealt with something like this before? What's the best course of action to address this? Thanks.

 

[Wild one]

Was changing my headlight bulbs and noticed a leak from the driver side radiator area under the hood. Brownish liquid with not much odor. No issues (yet) with overheating. Then with the engine running, I spotted some small bubbles coming from the side of the radiator. I recorded a video of it but can't figure out how to post it here so here's a photo for now.

View attachment 562325

Has anyone dealt with something like this before? What's the best course of action to address this? Thanks.

New rad,a few guys on here have had good success with the aftermarket aluminium radiators

 

[shon914]

Would you say the radiator is a DIY project? Do I need to deal with removing refrigerant or just a coolant flush?

 

[EdGs]

LIsten to @Wild one.

Don't wait, it will bite you in the a$$, and when you least expect it, too.

Mine had a bigger leak than that, but could have been there a good bit before it was an issue.


This pic is with a pressure tester on the radiator, set to 15psi, it's leaking in exactly the same spot as yours. You might be low on coolant.

Mine overheated 8 hours before a road trip, that could've been bad if it waited a couple hours to happen.

If it overheats on you, and you don't catch it quick, could warp the heads or worse.

Good luck.

 

[Ken226]

Would you say the radiator is a DIY project?

Depends on you. For some guys, machining and manufacturing every single part of a radial aviation engine is a DIY project. For others, topping off the washer fluid of their car leads to complete destruction of the entire engine.

But, yea, it's not that hard.

Watch a few YouTube videos, then decide if it's within your capabilities.

 

[shon914]

Yea, I just watched a few and I think I can handle it. But one video mentioned removing the refrigerant at a local shop. Is that necessary?

 

[shon914]

Also, for the time being while I order parts, etc, is it fine to just top off with coolant as it continues to leak?

 

[EdGs]

You dont need to remove the refrigerant, and you don't need to remove the mechanical fan.

I would, however, remove the grille and completely remove the coolant reservoir, so it can be completely emptied and cleaned. I found casting sand in mine.

Casting sand in Ram 5.7 Hemi engines

Currently in the middle of changing a cracked radiator in my 2015 Ram 1500 5.7L 196k miles. Was original radiator, original thermostat, still have original water pump. In the course of draining the coolant etc., I emptied my coolant reservoir. The fluid was very dark. I will admit that when...

www.ramforum.com

Reinstalling the rad without removing the fan clutch is a little nerve-wracking. At least, for me it was. Just pay attention and be careful.

 

[Marshall]

if just running around town, Guess you could get away with it, check every time you use it , and don't mix off brand or water. These trucks need the proper antifreeze.

 

[Ken226]

Yea, I just watched a few and I think I can handle it. But one video mentioned removing the refrigerant at a local shop. Is that necessary?

No, you don't have to drain the AC. It's a cost/labor thing. It's easier if the AC is drained, but you pay for the labor savings, in cash, to the shop that drained and will refill the AC.

Also, for the time being while I order parts, etc, is it fine to just top off with coolant as it continues to leak?

Noone here can possibly predict whether or not the radiator will last another 100,000 miles as-is, or if it will pop when you just happen to be in heavy traffic on a freeway with no shoulder, and can't possibly pull over safely, until AFTER the engine has melted.

That is you decision, and so are the consequences. Failure is a certainty, but when, depends on a too many variables to accurately predict. I'd bet it happens pretty soon though.

It's a 200$ radiator vs a 5000$ engine. I know for sure which route I'd take

 

[Marshall]

been a few yrs since I pulled a rad, but last time I did it with the fan on , I cut a sheet of cardboard and taped it to the inside of the rad, so the fan would not rub on it as lowered down.

 

[shon914]

No, you don't have to drain the AC. It's a cost/labor thing. It's easier if the AC is drained, but you pay for the labor savings, in cash, to the shop that drained and will refill the AC.




Noone here can possibly predict whether or not the radiator will last another 100,000 miles as-is, or if it will pop when you just happen to be in heavy traffic on a freeway with no shoulder, and can't possibly pull over safely, until AFTER the engine has melted.

That is you decision, and so are the consequences. Failure is a certainty, but when, depends on a too many variables to accurately predict. I'd bet it happens pretty soon though.

It's a 200$ radiator vs a 5000$ engine. I know for sure which route I'd take

Yea, I agree with you. Definitely not a long term thing. Just for a few days until I get my hands on a new radiator. Thanks guys for the advice!

 

[EdGs]

Thread 'Overheat, HELP!' https://www.ramforum.com/threads/overheat-help.214815/

 

[CanuckRam1313]

You dont need to remove the refrigerant, and you don't need to remove the mechanical fan.

I would, however, remove the grille and completely remove the coolant reservoir, so it can be completely emptied and cleaned. I found casting sand in mine.

Casting sand in Ram 5.7 Hemi engines

Currently in the middle of changing a cracked radiator in my 2015 Ram 1500 5.7L 196k miles. Was original radiator, original thermostat, still have original water pump. In the course of draining the coolant etc., I emptied my coolant reservoir. The fluid was very dark. I will admit that when...

www.ramforum.com

Reinstalling the rad without removing the fan clutch is a little nerve-wracking. At least, for me it was. Just pay attention and be careful.

^^^ THIS!!!!!!!!

 

[shon914]

You dont need to remove the refrigerant, and you don't need to remove the mechanical fan.

I would, however, remove the grille and completely remove the coolant reservoir, so it can be completely emptied and cleaned. I found casting sand in mine.

Casting sand in Ram 5.7 Hemi engines

Currently in the middle of changing a cracked radiator in my 2015 Ram 1500 5.7L 196k miles. Was original radiator, original thermostat, still have original water pump. In the course of draining the coolant etc., I emptied my coolant reservoir. The fluid was very dark. I will admit that when...

www.ramforum.com

Reinstalling the rad without removing the fan clutch is a little nerve-wracking. At least, for me it was. Just pay attention and be careful.

If I'm understanding you correctly, you were able to do this by sliding the radiator in/out between the A/C condenser and the fan assembly?

 

[crash68]

I recorded a video of it but can't figure out how to post it here so here's a photo for now.

To post a video on this forum, you need to have the video hosted on a video sharing site like YouTube then post the link to that video in your post.

 

[EdGs]

If I'm understanding you correctly, you were able to do this by sliding the radiator in/out between the A/C condenser and the fan assembly?

You can remove the shroud and electric fan out the top, provided you remove the trim attached to the top of the radiator, and remove the lower part of the shroud and unhook the chrstmas tree fasteners from the lower rad assembly.

Removing the grille makes it easy to remove the reservoir and unbolt the condenser from the radiator. The condenser has to be moved toward the passsenger side to detach it from the radiator. You have to unbolt the AGS as well.

I had to unbolt one tab bracket from the condenser. The condenser has transmission and refrigerant lines attached to it-do not unbolt those. You can move it enough to detach it from the rad, just be careful.

Radiator removes out the top and goes in from the top. A stepstool or short ladder is your friend.

 

[Wild one]

If I'm understanding you correctly, you were able to do this by sliding the radiator in/out between the A/C condenser and the fan assembly?

Put your evic on temps/pressures so you can monitor the engine temp closely,don't use the dash gauge,it's not exactly accurate for keeping an eye on the engines temp,if it starts to go above 225,look for a place you can pull off quickly and shut it down before it gets to hot and does engine damage.

 

[Wild one]

Where abouts are you located,if you're where you don't have to worry about temps being below 32F at night,you could get away with temporily topping it up with distilled water till you replace the rad,and it wouldn't hurt to keep a couple jugs of either water or antifreeze in the truck in the interm to refill it on the side of the road if it does run low on coolant.

 

[shon914]

Where abouts are you located,if you're where you don't have to worry about temps being below 32F at night,you could get away with temporily topping it up with distilled water till you replace the rad,and it wouldn't hurt to keep a couple jugs of either water or antifreeze in the truck in the interm to refill it on the side of the road if it does run low on coolant.

I'm in the Philly area. Temps are warming up now. Looks like staying above 32F in the evenings from now on.

Is this the right part number?

55056858AE​

https://store.mopar.com/oem-parts/mopar-engine-cooling-radiator-55056858ae?c=Zz1jb29saW5nJnM9cmFkaWF0b3ItYW5kLXJlbGF0ZWQtcGFydHMtY2hhcmdlLWFpci1jb29sZXImbD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT1yYW0mbz0xNTAwJnk9MjAxNyZ0PWJpZy1ob3JuJmU9NS03bC12OC1nYXM%3D

On "sale" for $441 at the dealership near me.