Check your intake manifold bolts

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HEMIMANN

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It's 2025, time for the annual intake manifold screw torque checkup.

This is what, the 3rd or 4th year of this for me, and they STILL take a quarter turn to 108 in-lb spec tight. (M8 socket)

WTF - is this an infinitely thick rubber grommet? The 1st time I tightened, I went all the way with removing the screws, cleaning the threads, and applying high temp loctite. Didn't matter a bit - following year, another quarter turn.
 

Hagar1

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This hasn't been talked about for awhile,but check your intake manifold bolts.They call for 108 in-lbs or roughly 9 ft-lbs of torque,and they should be checked at least yearly,as they do loosen up. I've been doing mine at least twice a year on all 3 of of my hemi equipped vehicles.They should be checked and torqued when the engine is cold.I just use my calibrated hand and a 1/4" drive rachet / 6" extension and 5/16's socket and just give them a twist by hand,but if you don't trust your hand,an inch lb torque wrench should be used.There's 10 of them on 5.7's and 6.4's. I've done them enough,i know the torque sequence ,but if you don't know the sequence it's easy enough to look up
Also check the intake gasket / seal I found 6 out of the 8 were damaged enough to leak.
 
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Wild one

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Is that a one piece part or a seal per each screw, or ???
They're individual neoprene style gaskets/o-rings on each port Brian. The most common damage is when guys have the manifold off,and don't lube the head surface and o-ring,and then slide the manifold around to get it in place. The o-rings don't like being slid on a dry surface
 

Hagar1

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They're individual neoprene style gaskets/o-rings on each port Brian. The most common damage is when guys have the manifold off,and don't lube the head surface and o-ring,and then slide the manifold around to get it in place. The o-rings don't like being slid on a dry surface
These were leaking at the spot where the little "notch" is on the manifold. Interesting failure to say the least. I kept them around because people didn't believe that it could happen.
 

HEMIMANN

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They're individual neoprene style gaskets/o-rings on each port Brian. The most common damage is when guys have the manifold off,and don't lube the head surface and o-ring,and then slide the manifold around to get it in place. The o-rings don't like being slid on a dry surface

Ah - man, what an expensive seal system instead of a flat plane gasket.

I've never had the manifold off - haven't needed to go clean out the EGR. Yet. lol I need to get on with the PCV breather, I'm still dinking with the bike right now. crickey
 

Highway

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All my intake bolts were at least 1/2 turn loose, would that throw a

P219B code ?​

 

jmc921

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Wow. Another issue I didn’t know about. It’s obviously significant since the thread is still quite active after 2 years. I have 98,000 on my 2014 and have never checked this but will, as soon as it cools off a bit.

Thanks for the heads up.
 

jmc921

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Also, I just found a video showing the torquing of the intake manifold bolts. It’s for a guy replacing the manifold on a car (probably a Charger) but around the 8:05 mark it shows the tightening sequence.


Sorry if this has already been posted.
 
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Wild one

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Also, I just found a video showing the torquing of the intake manifold bolts. It’s for a guy replacing the manifold on a car (probably a Charger) but around the 8:05 mark it shows the tightening sequence.


Sorry if this has already been posted.
Post #9 shows the torque sequence.

1752686203114.png
 

EdGs

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They're individual neoprene style gaskets/o-rings on each port Brian. The most common damage is when guys have the manifold off,and don't lube the head surface and o-ring,and then slide the manifold around to get it in place. The o-rings don't like being slid on a dry surface
Interesting tidbit, Rick. I never thought about having to slide the intake around to get it positioned.

Any special lube to use on the head surface, or just a little oil?
 
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Wild one

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Interesting tidbit, Rick. I never thought about having to slide the intake around to get it positioned.

Any special lube to use on the head surface, or just a little oil?
I use either WD40 or engine oil,both work good Ed.Even spit will work,but i can't spit enough to cover all 8 O-rings,lol. I usually lube both the head surface and the o-ring surface,as that lets the manifold slide around a bit,with out hurting the o-rings,like when you're trying to reinstall the brake booster hose
 

Sherman Bird

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Interesting tidbit, Rick. I never thought about having to slide the intake around to get it positioned.

Any special lube to use on the head surface, or just a little oil?
GM says that 30W motor oil is to be used, and I have for many years. I also will use petroleum jelly at times. It works too.
 
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