Coil Packs and spark plug issue.

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MOPAR78

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The photos are cylinder #2. # 7 showing bad misfire as well. The coil springs were shot (looked melted) and the coil boots looked like something oozed down on the plugs. Any idea what is causing this?

The plugs are what came with the block and were factory set to .028 on the gaps. I've researched that the factory coils are equal or better than aftermarkets. Your thoughts.

I have coil packs off my original 5.7, but they have 362,000+ miles on them.

I have a new set of brisk Silver Racing plugs ER14S.

The 105MM TB is on the way and I want to replace all plugs and coils before it's re-tuned.

Thanks in advance for your input!

Coils And Plugs 4.jpgCoils And Plugs 3.jpgCoils And Plugs 2.jpgCoils And Plugs 1.jpg
 

Wild one

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The photos are cylinder #2. # 7 showing bad misfire as well. The coil springs were shot (looked melted) and the coil boots looked like something oozed down on the plugs. Any idea what is causing this?

The plugs are what came with the block and were factory set to .028 on the gaps. I've researched that the factory coils are equal or better than aftermarkets. Your thoughts.

I have coil packs off my original 5.7, but they have 362,000+ miles on them.

I have a new set of brisk Silver Racing plugs ER14S.

The 105MM TB is on the way and I want to replace all plugs and coils before it's re-tuned.

Thanks in advance for your input!

View attachment 560751View attachment 560752View attachment 560753View attachment 560754
 
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MOPAR78

MOPAR78

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Thanks Wild one! As usual, great information! Coils are shot, thinking about getting these.

 

Wild one

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Thanks Wild one! As usual, great information! Coils are shot, thinking about getting these.

Go onto a couple of the hi-po car pages and ask about Stevens coils.I've never ran them so i'm not gonna comment,but you might want to research them on the car pages where the guys are making well north of 900 rwhp ;)
Don't discredit the OEM coils,they still have one of the best reps.
Are you sure your coils are shot,you can clean them,and rebuild them with new boots and springs,that do away with the resistor
 
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MOPAR78

MOPAR78

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Uppert photo: Top coil (resistor type) was one of three throwing excessive misfires. Lower coil is off the original 5.7, it had no resistor. Lower photo: damaged coil. I'm betting the spring was not making good contact with the plug thus causing arching which will cause excessive heating. That's what probably caused coil failure, IMO.


Coils 2.jpgCoils1.jpg
 

mdc1990zr1

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Uppert photo: Top coil (resistor type) was one of three throwing excessive misfires. Lower coil is off the original 5.7, it had no resistor. Lower photo: damaged coil. I'm betting the spring was not making good contact with the plug thus causing arching which will cause excessive heating. That's what probably caused coil failure, IMO.


View attachment 560795View attachment 560796
With the know reliability of the NGK plugs, I wouldn't put a Bosch in there. And that would eliminate the spark plug question.
 

Wild one

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Uppert photo: Top coil (resistor type) was one of three throwing excessive misfires. Lower coil is off the original 5.7, it had no resistor. Lower photo: damaged coil. I'm betting the spring was not making good contact with the plug thus causing arching which will cause excessive heating. That's what probably caused coil failure, IMO.


View attachment 560795View attachment 560796
Compare the part numbers off the coils Roland,if your 5.7 coils are 56029129AF,they'll work on your 6.2.I'd also dump the resistors in the good coils,clean them up and use the longer springs. Ever thought of switching out to a copper plug instead of irridiums,copper plugs are still the most efficient plugs,and they're easier on the coils,only downside is you should change them about every 30,000 to 35,000 miles
 
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MOPAR78

MOPAR78

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I had no idea there were resistor and non resistor coils for this set up. Does this effect the plug type and tuning information?
 

crash68

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Ever thought of switching out to a copper plug instead of irridiums,copper plugs are still the most efficient plugs,
..but spark plugs are the cause of poor fuel economy, just get rid of them and add a turbo... LOL :cool:
 

Wild one

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I had no idea there were resistor and non resistor coils for this set up. Does this effect the plug type and tuning information?
The coils on your 6.2 will probably have the resistors. If you can't see a screw head when you pull the boots off,it's because the resistors are sitting on top of the screw head.From what i've gathered they started using the resistors on the 16's,before that they didn't use them. I'd pull the resistors on the good coils,swap in your longer springs,and i'd seriously consider going to a copper plug.It shouldn't hurt your tune .
If it was me i'd clean up the longer springs and stretch them out about a 1/2", pull the resistors out and clean up the screw heads under the resistors,and slap it together with something like a Brisk racing plug
 

JHoward

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These are 1 step colder,and will work good in your 6.2.


From the seller: "This plug is for the GEN3 HEMI that use a crushed sleeve spark plug fitment(not a tapered seat)". I'm not sure what that means.

Also the seller stats that this plug can be used on a naturally aspirated GEN3 HEMI ...
 

Wild one

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From the seller: "This plug is for the GEN3 HEMI that use a crushed sleeve spark plug fitment(not a tapered seat)". I'm not sure what that means.

Also the seller stats that this plug can be used on a naturally aspirated GEN3 HEMI ...
The 6.4's in the cars use a tapered seat plug,that means there's no crush washer.
The truck 6.4's /5.7's and Hellcat 6.2's use a plug with a crush washer.
This is a tapered seat plug,that is for a 6.4 car.
These are what i ran in the 1320
1739749415090.png
 

Wild one

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From the seller: "This plug is for the GEN3 HEMI that use a crushed sleeve spark plug fitment(not a tapered seat)". I'm not sure what that means.

Also the seller stats that this plug can be used on a naturally aspirated GEN3 HEMI ...
I ran Denso 3381's in the truck,and they worked great.I used to change plugs on the truck every season,so i have several sets of low milege 3381's on hand,that i've cleaned up,regapped them to 0.042" and repurposed them for my stock 300 with a 5.7 .I ran them at 0.032" in the truck,but the 300 is stock,so i run a wider gap on it

 

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Tominator223

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Bad ground usually fries coils. I’ve always ran OE plugs in my gen3 truck. I get about 70k miles out of em. & my stock coils lasted about 350k miles. IMO if you want the best performance out of an engine you index the plugs using a crush washer. Used to do this on my ZX11. Basically it lets you point the plug gap at valve for the best combustion possible . It can be done if the plug had one already or not. Never really did it with a stock engine but definitely on a built engine. Now I’m curious if anyone on ut has done plug indexing on a stock engine to see if there is any change to hp.
 

Wild one

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Bad ground usually fries coils. I’ve always ran OE plugs in my gen3 truck. I get about 70k miles out of em. & my stock coils lasted about 350k miles. IMO if you want the best performance out of an engine you index the plugs using a crush washer. Used to do this on my ZX11. Basically it lets you point the plug gap at valve for the best combustion possible . It can be done if the plug had one already or not. Never really did it with a stock engine but definitely on a built engine. Now I’m curious if anyone on ut has done plug indexing on a stock engine to see if there is any change to hp.
Plug indexing has been done on the hemi,and the guys making north of 1,000 hp don't see any gain,so you're not going to gain anything on a stock engine,if it doesn't show a gain on something making a 1,000+. Indexing 16 plugs that are several inches below the valve cover,with a few of them pretty hard to get an eye on,is gonna make for an entertaining day,lol
 
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