Coolant?

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crackerjack1957

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^^^
Yeah if you do it yourself you can get all of the old coolant out.......pay someone else to do and more than likely they will not get it all

4. Flushing the System
To flush the cooling system refill the radiator with plain water. Then start the engine and allow it to run until it is at operating temperature while keeping the radiator or reservoir full. Once the engine is warm and the thermostat has opened shut the engine off and repeat the draining process motioned earlier in this guide. Perform this operation as many times as needed until the system is clean. If your car has a non pressurized external coolant reservoir you are going to want to remove it and clean it out separately so any old coolant does not contaminate the new coolant in the system.

 

GTyankee

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I will tell you what a huge Boat Sales & Repair company on a Fresh water lake named Lake of the Ozarks in Missouri does
They do get ICE & Snow almost every year

Because there are so many Brands & Types of Anti Freeze
When the Brand New boats arrive, they take the boats that use antifreeze into the maintenance shed,
They then run the engine & then drain the antifreeze
They flush the coolant system 2 or 3 times with water, it may be Distilled Water.
Then they pour in a 50/50 mix of Green Antifreeze
Then they put stickers telling what they have in the coolant system & the Maintenance Log also gets marked.

They say that Green AntiFreeze is cheaper & more readily available world wide

I don't know if a complete service is done at the beginning of every season or if it is done every 2nd season when it comes to boats

Maybe they completely drain the coolant system at the end of the boating season
 

Burla

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I would run fast from getting any work done there.
 

HEMIMANN

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Geez, aren't any of you guys old with arthritis and other bodily damage?
 

HEMIMANN

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I think there is a section for old geezers........LoL
Yeah, I'm in that Forum. If nothing else, I talk my kids into doing some of this for me. Changing coolant on my tractor is fairly easy, so I do that myself.

But the RV engine d*a*m*n near killed me last year, had to get a kid to finish it. And this despite being room to work in the engine bay - they had stuff with near impossible tool access - like block drain plugs sealed over with other equipment in front of them, hard to reach hose clamps, etc. etc.
 

knightjp

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My isue with the chart is we don't use dex cool, but a dex clone without the seal killing thing dex has.

car.com%2flibrary%2fcoolant_application_chart_2015.jpg
@Burla Are you saying that Dex-Cool breaks seals?
Looking up the chart you posted and various other charts online, my truck is a 2014 and so it would have come with OAT. According to the manual, FCA recommends OAT.
The main dealer here will definitely use only Mopar stuff. Whether it is Dex-Cool like the chart says, I don't know..
I know this is completely out, but if my brother's 2004 Durango uses HOAT, if he uses Dex-Cool, the same as my truck, would that be an issue for his vehicle?
Also Why do you prefer using HOAT on your vehicle? If you do, what is the brand you use?

If I want to use a different brand to Mopar, the trouble is that most coolant cans in parts stores here, don't really say OAT or HOAT. The staff here in parts stores only know red vs green.. That is it. So if it doesn't say on the can, I am at a loss of deciding. Maybe there are other indicators that will tell me the specs of the coolant?
 
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crackerjack1957

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Well if you're not going to flush which you should because they recommend every 8 years regardless.
Below is what comes from the factory.......what it's been topped off with over the years who knows.
If it was me I would flush multiple times on the 2004 until no sign of left over coolant & put the same as the 2014.......don't forget to dump & clean reservoir.
Flush the 2014 once.

2014 gets Mopar# 68163849AB (OAT)


2004 gets Mopar# 68051212AC (HOAT)
 
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Burla

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@Burla Are you saying that Dex-Cool breaks seals?
Looking up the chart you posted and various other charts online, my truck is a 2014 and so it would have come with OAT. According to the manual, FCA recommends OAT.
The main dealer here will definitely use only Mopar stuff. Whether it is Dex-Cool like the chart says, I don't know..
I know this is completely out, but if my brother's 2004 Durango uses HOAT, if he uses Dex-Cool, the same as my truck, would that be an issue for his vehicle?
Also Why do you prefer using HOAT on your vehicle? If you do, what is the brand you use?

If I want to use a different brand to Mopar, the trouble is that most coolant cans in parts stores here, don't really say OAT or HOAT. The staff here in parts stores only know red vs green.. That is it. So if it doesn't say on the can, I am at a loss of deciding. Maybe there are other indicators that will tell me the specs of the coolant?
HOAT is an upgrade from IAT, but populates metal faster then oat. Now, fca must know more then me, because we have NOT had any long term issues with oat so far, so likley it was dex paranoia still residing in me. As for brand, I'd stick with whatever mopar coolant is for that application, or look into peak global life. For unknown to me reason dex left the chemical that eats seals and plasctic in the formula, they just took anything like that out of GM cooling systems, so I'm not sure why anyone w/o a GM cooling system use dex. I cant solve that problem, I don't know about red or green, that doesn't sound good anyway you look at it. If you can't get mopar, look into peak global life. This is why, it is oat and doesnt have 2-eh -

  • Features a patented non 2-EH formula that is borate-free and silicate-free
It almost sounds perfect, universal coolant.
 

knightjp

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For unknown to me reason dex left the chemical that eats seals and plasctic in the formula, they just took anything like that out of GM cooling systems, so I'm not sure why anyone w/o a GM cooling system use dex.
Would this chemical do the same for our engines as well? This has me skeptical about using any Dex-cool coolant in my vehicle. It certainly seems according to the chart you posted, Chrysler is using Dex-Cool. Even the Havoline website is using the same to describe the coolant for Chrysler engines from 2012 onwards. But if that is going to cause me issues in the long run, then I would rather not use it.
I would get Mopar and that would be my preferred choice, however the dealer and parts shops charge quite a bit for it over the other stuff; just because it is Mopar and I'm not quite sure that the price is worth it.
Over here we have a brand called AC Delco.. which is pretty much one of the go to brands when dealing with American vehicles. AC Delco seems to cater to pretty much every American vehicle. I would assume that it is OAT or maybe even IAT. AC Delco has a Dex-Cool coolant as well.


HOAT is an upgrade from IAT, but populates metal faster then oat.
What does that mean? What made Chrysler and the other American manufacturers switch from HOAT to OAT?

What do you use?
 

Treburkulosis

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Burla is correct 12 and older are Hoat. I did my coolant around 136k. Use mopar dont use anything else. It will not work. I searched and searched and even called my parts guy that I trust at my preferred dealership. You can get it on Amazon or from Summit if you want to save a few bucks. I went through amazon and it was here in 1-2 days.
 

Burla

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Chrysler most certainly does not use dex cool, they use a dex clone, without said chemical. GM transformed their cooling systems to accept that, but fca changed the formula instead of the cooling system.

One reason, people don't want to service their coolant, so oat is the longest lasting coolant 10 years. My truck takes HOAT, so I gladly use HOAT, and if I felt motivated zerex has a perfect replacement for hoat, i'm not sure they do for Chrysler OAT. Their dex is true dex I believe, which is no good in anything but GM regardless what someone says. Oat puts a shield over the metal, like a film, but it takes a while to do so, whereas other coolants protect the metal right away.

I already said, I would use Mopar hoat if it came that way, or mopar oat if it came that way. Future intervals should be shorter imo because it is near impossible to get all of the coolant out. If I didn't have access to mopar, I get to use zerex g05 of whatever the clone of hoat is, but I don't know what oat is a dex clone with the additive, I just havent researched that, maybe it exists. I'm saying the peak global life is oat but with no offensive chemicals that varying brands have, like dex or the asians. Global Life is like a base oil with no additives, so my point is it sounds safe. I'd go to that on a shorter interval, like 3 years if it were me and I could not get fca oat. If I couldn't get either mopar oat or peak global life, then I would look for an oat coolant that didn't have the previously posted chemical or the stuff the asian coolants have. I forget one of the asians would not work, and one might work, I forget sorry man.

Try and get the right mopar coolant, go to dealer, have someone ship it, whatever. I'd use sewer water before dex cool.
 

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Like @Burla says - coolant is cheap, esp. since we only have to change every 5+ years. I just go with the Mopar OAT and call it a day. It's the labor that's expensive.
 

knightjp

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What I would like to do is find a coolant that I could use for both the 2004 Durango and the 2014 Ram. I know both vehicles use the 5.7 HEMI V8 and I've pretty much standardized them both on Redline 5W30 engine oil. This makes it easy for my mechanic to flushes and stuff; rather than huge expenses at the main dealer.

If it was me I would flush multiple times on the 2004 until no sign of left over coolant & put the same as the 2014.......don't forget to dump & clean reservoir.
@crackerjack1957 I guess that is a good idea. The 2004 Durango is due for a coolant flush soon and I know that if I take it to the dealer, they will probably use the Mopar OAT even though it says to use HOAT.

2014 gets Mopar# 68051212AC (HOAT)
I thought it gets OAT. Interestingly enough, I was checking on whether this HOAT would be good for the 2004 Durango and the site said NO..
 

Burla

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In 2004 it would either be IAT or HOAT, and I'm pretty sure all fca vehicles were HOAT for your brothers vehicle.
 

knightjp

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In 2004 it would either be IAT or HOAT, and I'm pretty sure all fca vehicles were HOAT for your brothers vehicle.
@Burla That is certainly true. However as I said before, knowing our local dealer, if I take 2004 Durango to them, they will basically just flush the system and put in the current OAT that they have in stock; because they really don't care.
I'm thinking if that is what will happen anyway, whether I should just get my mechanic to do that and save a ton of money on labor. Then the only biggest expense would be the Mopar coolant - even if they want to charge us triple the price of any other standard OAT or IAT.
 

crackerjack1957

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What I would like to do is find a coolant that I could use for both the 2004 Durango and the 2014 Ram. I know both vehicles use the 5.7 HEMI V8 and I've pretty much standardized them both on Redline 5W30 engine oil. This makes it easy for my mechanic to flushes and stuff; rather than huge expenses at the main dealer.


@crackerjack1957 I guess that is a good idea. The 2004 Durango is due for a coolant flush soon and I know that if I take it to the dealer, they will probably use the Mopar OAT even though it says to use HOAT.


I thought it gets OAT. Interestingly enough, I was checking on whether this HOAT would be good for the 2004 Durango and the site said NO..
Had 2004 & 2014 in the wrong place..........I corrected
 
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