Did Redline Oil work against your Hemi Tick?

Did redline kill your hemi tick?


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HEMIMANN

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If mine started ticking I would go straight to Redline 5W30 or 0W30 depending on if your truck sits outside in the winter.

IMO 5W20 Oil is garbage for a Hemi and part of the problem.

Why wait for damage to be audible?
 

mradDiction

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So I went to mopac and got the redline oil and Royal purple filter will change the oil on the weekend. Here is the before video it’s kind of loud with the fan it’s 30 degrees here today and smoky from forest fires. The dripping in the video is condensation from the A/C and not oil just FYI. The ticking quieted a bit today, not sure if the Lucas Synthetic Oil stabilizer is starting to do it’s thing but you can still make out the tick in the video.

 
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Burla

Burla

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Yeah, glad you took some of that from underneath, this is what I tell everyone. Sounds like lifter tap to me for sure, not terribly bad one, but it is there. Thanks for taking that video, good example there. The engine sounds fine, the cadence good, you have a minor underlying tap, I'd say more of sticky lifters then true hemi tick, but my guess is you issue will soon be over. When you change your oil make sure level is good, we all use 7.5 quarts with the 20-820 filter, and bring up rpm's to like 3k for a good couple/few minutes. Don't use make up oil, if you only bought 7 quarts, buy another one, sorry I forgot to mention.
 

mradDiction

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Yeah, glad you took some of that from underneath, this is what I tell everyone. Sounds like lifter tap to me for sure, not terribly bad one, but it is there. Thanks for taking that video, good example there. The engine sounds fine, the cadence good, you have a minor underlying tap, I'd say more of sticky lifters then true hemi tick, but my guess is you issue will soon be over. When you change your oil make sure level is good, we all use 7.5 quarts with the 20-820 filter, and bring up rpm's to like 3k for a good couple/few minutes. Don't use make up oil, if you only bought 7 quarts, buy another one, sorry I forgot to mention.
Shoot I only bought 7. Oh well I can go back
 

jwhitebird

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So I have a 2012 Ram 1500 sport crew cab with a 5.7 hemi. I have replaced 2 sets of manifold bolts, one as recently as last Sept/2020. My motor has recently started ticking and I’ve had 3 mechanics tell me it’s internal. I’ve been obsessing about this for a couple weeks, the motor runs so smooth on the road and highway it’s hard to believe it’s a lifter problem eating my cam. I’ve run synthetic in this thing for as long as I e had it 5w20. I ran into money struggles during covid last year and let my oil changes go longer than I normally would do it’s probably my fault this is happening. I just put 1 quart of Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer in my motor to try to quiet it but so far no luck. My local mechanic did my oil change 2 weeks ago but he used an oil called Motosel synthetic 5w20 that I’ve never heard of and a really cheap oil filter, it’s label says “certified” across it so it’s some no one name brand he charged me 100 for this change. I can order redline 5w30 from Amazon here in Calgary Canada and wix dp oil filters there too or a Napa one. I’ve peice the came and lifter job out up here but it will cost 5-6000 dollars to fix it. How serious is this problem and how long will this motor last managing this tick with oil? Thanks in advance for your help. By the way I don’t usually use this mechanic for my oil, I was trying to save cash but for almost the entire time I had the truck I took it to the dealer which ran penzoil 5w20, even jiffy lube ran that for synthetic yet this is still happening to me. I can’t afford a 14,000 new motor for this thing, even the cam and lifter job at 6k will break me. I’m a single income dad supporting my spouse and daughter and am by no means a rich man. I was hoping this truck would last the 350-400k so I didn’t have to keep soaking money into vehicles but this truck is becoming a money pit. There ar wax counts of people doing changes every 3-5k miles and still losing the cam. 112k miles and I have a cyl 3 misfire, lifter ate my cam. There are some that have lost it in only 5000 brand new miles
 

2012RAM1500RT

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I have absolutely no tick or noise of any kind in my engine. I run PUP 5W20 in it and I run the **** out of it when I drive it. I have 137,000ish miles on it but I am all about preventive maintenance so I replaced my oil with Redline 5W20 and while I don't expect it could run any quieter than it already does after reading about all this I feel like it could help prevent any future issues. What could it hurt to try?
 
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Burla

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I have absolutely no tick or noise of any kind in my engine. I run PUP 5W20 in it and I run the **** out of it when I drive it. I have 137,000ish miles on it but I am all about preventive maintenance so I replaced my oil with Redline 5W20 and while I don't expect it could run any quieter than it already does after reading about all this I feel like it could help prevent any future issues. What could it hurt to try?
Redline is good oil for a hemi, but if it were me and I had a hemi with 137k miles and no tick, I would keep doing what I was doing, maybe think about 5w30 and/or lubegard biotech which is poor man's redline.
 

2012RAM1500RT

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Redline is good oil for a hemi, but if it were me and I had a hemi with 137k miles and no tick, I would keep doing what I was doing, maybe think about 5w30 and/or lubegard biotech which is poor man's redline.
Just hoping if it will stop a tick it may prevent a tick.
 
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Burla

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It can do both of those, but as a fact ram forum numbers have shown redline has less success with ticks when the truck has over 70k miles. If it aint broke don't fix it, but if it ticks redline is worth a shot.
 

HEMIMANN

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Because not every Hemi has the tick and mine is very quiet. I have run high quality synthetic since I dumped the OEM oil at a couple of thousand miles and I don't run 5W20.

And the way you prevent damage that can range from $4,600 (if caught in time) to complete engine replacement ($9,500) is preventive - using RL from the start. The viscosity isn't the issue - that's only for wear. The issue is oil starvation of the lifter, for which 5W-20 flows better than 5W-30. It's the additives that matter here, as well as base oil capability to stick to metal - RL having polyol ester, unlike all others, is the only base oil that clings to metal.
 
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Burla

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It's a fact some oil filters contribute to tick, as my truck ticked on one filter when I changed to RP with no oil change, tick disappeared. Part of the equation.
 
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Burla

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But I still think it is ep additives that is the difference, maybe the esters help some for sure.
 

HEMIMANN

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It's a fact some oil filters contribute to tick, as my truck ticked on one filter when I changed to RP with no oil change, tick disappeared. Part of the equation.

Does that not lead to difference in oil flow rate?
 

mradDiction

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Yeah, glad you took some of that from underneath, this is what I tell everyone. Sounds like lifter tap to me for sure, not terribly bad one, but it is there. Thanks for taking that video, good example there. The engine sounds fine, the cadence good, you have a minor underlying tap, I'd say more of sticky lifters then true hemi tick, but my guess is you issue will soon be over. When you change your oil make sure level is good, we all use 7.5 quarts with the 20-820 filter, and bring up rpm's to like 3k for a good couple/few minutes. Don't use make up oil, if you only bought 7 quarts, buy another one, sorry I forgot to mention.
Hey Burla the manual says 7 quarts or 6.6 litres. The RP filter doesn’t look bigger that the OE filter. Is the extra oil just to push the lifter a bit further or? Why would I need the extra half quart?
 
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Burla

Burla

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You don't need persay, but if you followed the hemi tick cases 7.5 quarts kills some ticks that 7 quarts doesn't. We had many guys just add a 1/2 quart extra and alleviate some ticks. If you use 7, I would keep on eye on it.
 

ramffml

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It's a fact some oil filters contribute to tick, as my truck ticked on one filter when I changed to RP with no oil change, tick disappeared. Part of the equation.

Did it tick on the old filter just at startup (< 30 seconds), or was it constant tick? If it was just the first 30 seconds then it could have been a bad anti-drain back valve.
 
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Burla

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Constant warm idle tick like the engine was being choked from oil. I would mention the brand, however they have sense upgraded it, so I will leave it alone.

If you zoom it you can see why, the rp on the left had a bunch of holes but the other filter on the right did not, prevented good flow, and it showed up as tick.

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