Do I have a lifter going out? YES, I DO!!!!!!

[brad byron]

Which engine..???

 

[Greif]

Anyone have a link to redline thread? Did a search but there are hundreds of threads with redline in
Thanks

 

[CMV157]

Get a UOA. That will tell the tale.

 

[EdGs]

Which engine..???

5.7

 

[ski161]

2015 SLT QC 8SPD 2WD

201250 miles

Started her up yesterday, heard some intermittent tapping, louder on driver side.

Louder at startup than at full hot. Manifold shields tight. My hearing sucks, I cannot hear it inside the cab, at least, not yet

I'm afraid it might be my time for a cam/lifters.

Here's my first video, cold start. Pardon my fingers in the way,

2015 Ram 1500 Bad Lifter? YES, cylinder 5

Cold startup of my 2015 Ram 1500, it's making an intermittent tap, tap, tap. Turns out, #5 intake lifter needles worn/gone. 201,250 miles.

youtu.be

Thoughts?

More video shortly, stay tuned.

I have about the same mileage on mine and thought the same thing until I checked the back to bolts on the exhaust manifold and found them to be broken. After repairing them the hemi tick went away

 

[macrolinux]

I've had to replace broken exhaust manifold bolts on passenger side twice in the last 10 years on my 2010 Ram 5.7L. It sounds just like lifters ticking. Just an FYI. Mine also has the hemi lifter tick at cold start that goes away about 25 to 30 seconds after you start it. It's had that for about 10 years. It started right after the warranty had expired. Lol . It runs fine and has no codes. I bought the truck new over 15 years ago. I just now hit a 100k miles on it.

 

[Lastgoodshyguy]

Will really bad exhaust manifolds keep ticking? Took valve covers off and all seam to have equal movement

 

[EdGs]

I've had to replace broken exhaust manifold bolts on passenger side twice in the last 10 years on my 2010 Ram 5.7L. It sounds just like lifters ticking. Just an FYI. Mine also has the hemi lifter tick at cold start that goes away about 25 to 30 seconds after you start it. It's had that for about 10 years. It started right after the warranty had expired. Lol . It runs fine and has no codes. I bought the truck new over 15 years ago. I just now hit a 100k miles on it.

Already been there, done that with exhaust manifold bolts, about 100k miles ago (mine were the upper rear bolt on both sides, too).

Belt sand your manifolds flat, and you will never have to do them again.

Tick is very light, and intermittent, but steady. See my vids from earlier. Sounds nothing like the exhaust leak I had.

Heat shields tight. At 201,250 miles now.

 

[EdGs]

Will really bad exhaust manifolds keep ticking? Took valve covers off and all seam to have equal movement

If the exhaust manifolds warp enough, sometimes the tick does not go away. Exhaust tick is different than lifter tick, though

 

[Ken226]

If the exhaust manifolds warp enough, sometimes the tick does not go away. Exhaust tick is different than lifter tick, though

Once you get to the reassembly stage, if your the kinda guy who doesn't mind paying for convenience, and/or collecting tools that ya may never need again, this thing is the cat's meow for installing and torquing the cam bolt.

I'd loan ya mine if you was closer, but it would nearly cost as must for 2 way shipping as the thing costs.

Besides, the forum makes money if ya buy one via the link.

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[EdGs]

@Ken226, That's a neat tool.

Can you still get the chain over the sprockets with the cam phaser bolted on? I didnt think there would be enough slack to install it.

You could come down to SW FL on vacation, and give me a hand with my repair

 

[Ken226]

@Ken226, That's a neat tool.

Can you still get the chain over the sprockets with the cam phaser bolted on? I didnt think there would be enough slack to install it.

You could come down to SW FL on vacation, and give me a hand with my repair

Yea. Getting the chain on is easy on a Hemi. The tensioner takes up alot of slack. The tensioner when not-installed, leaves enough slack to maneuver the chain over the crank and phase sprockets.

Not like the old small block chevy with no tensioner whatsoever. I always put the chain over both sprockets and slipped them into place together, as if one piece, which wouldn't have left room for a tool like this.

If you've read the many, many posts by folks doing this repair then no doubt you seen the same guys posting about the struggle of holding the cam still while torquing down that bolt.


But yea, as much as I like Florida, it's a bit of a haul. I'm not sure my ass could handle that many hours sitting in a truck seat.

I don't think there are many points in the US that are further apart. Excluding Alaska and Hawaii.

 

[EdGs]

But yea, as much as I like Florida, it's a bit of a haul. I'm not sure my ass could handle that many hours sitting in a truck seat.

I don't think there are many points in the US that are further apart. Excluding Alaska and Hawaii.

View attachment 566657

Well, you could fly. Hell, I'd fly you in if I could afford it.

You got the destination as Tampa, I'm about 2-1/2 hours south of there, almost directly west of Lake Okeechobee, probably 20 minutes by air.

RSW is about 20 minutes from my house.

Thanks for the link to the gear holder tool.

I need a harmonic balancer puller, you got any ideas on a inexpensive suitable one?

 

[Ken226]

Well, you could fly. Hell, I'd fly you in if I could afford it.

You got the destination as Tampa, I'm about 2-1/2 hours south of there, almost directly west of Lake Okeechobee, probably 20 minutes by air.

RSW is about 20 minutes from my house.

Thanks for the link to the gear holder tool.

I need a harmonic balancer puller, you got any ideas on a inexpensive suitable one?

I like the 3 claw stye that's made for this type balancer. Like this 13450 puller

2013 5.7 hemi harmonic balancer puller tool

5.7 hemi harmonic puller #13450 by Schley Makes pulling off that pulley a breeze.

youtu.be

The Schley is kinda pricey, but there are knockoffs that could probably work for a 1 off job.

Schley Tools – 13450A 3-Jaw Harmonic Balancer Puller HEMI Engines https://a.co/d/1FDlejq

Do your own due-diligence on the knockoffs. I've used some that broke on the first use.

This looks like it could work... Maybe
Harmonic Balancer Damper Pulley Remove Extractor Kit Compatible with Ford, GM, Chrysler, Cadillac, Chevy Trucks, Mitsubishi, Upgraded Version 3 Jaw Puller https://a.co/d/47wObeY

 

[LONEWOLF64465]

pull intake and valve covers , check screen as mentioned before if metal appears replace engine , don't waist your time and money with cam/lifters

 

[Wild one]

Found them @EdGs

 

[EdGs]

You type faster then me.....lol

 

[Wild one]

You type faster then me.....lol

Very doubtful,i'm a 1 finger typer,

 

[JHoward]

That your tackling it this early instead of continuing to drive it is probably why repair will be a viable option.

Pull the intake and valve covers. While checking the parts I mentioned above, look at the VVT solenoid and check for metal in the screen.

After you've done those things and the guesses are resolved into certainties, you can start planning your course of action.

Absolutely good advice.

 

[JHoward]

Good idea on the compression test.

I am due for an 8 speed service, and I want a PPE pan and @caulk04's bypass as well. That will have to be after.

I have no misfire codes atm, and I might not be able to see any noticeable difference in valve travel if it is early enough.

If valve travel appears normal, then it will have to be torn down to inspect the lifters/cam, especially if no metal is on the oil control valve.

Oil strategy is fine, but if there is a problem brewing, I don't want to run it to the point of misfire, then bearing damage chances increase.

Yes, to all parts you reference, plus new OCV and MDS solenoids, IMO.

The cam and crank bearings are concerning if needing changed.

Thank you all so much for your input. Keep the suggestions coming.

I have the PPE pan/OEM gasket and seven quarts MOPAR 8/9 Speed tranny oil(all brand new and never used)Ill give you ... I'm not going to be using ..
pm me if your interested.