Do I have a lifter going out? YES, I DO!!!!!!

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EdGs

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That's not much metal,if the cams going out,it looks like you caught it early enough to be safe stuffing a new one in,and doing a couple oil changes afterwards
That's what I was praying for. The repair still sucks, but it could suck ALOT worse, for sure.

I'm so glad I stopped driving it, I did drive it a couple days to work and back, maybe 150 miles, tops.

Super glad I heard that noise when I started it with the door open. Absolutely could not hear it with door closed.
 

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That's what I was praying for. The repair still sucks, but it could suck ALOT worse, for sure.

I'm so glad I stopped driving it, I did drive it a couple days to work and back, maybe 150 miles, tops.

Super glad I heard that noise when I started it with the door open. Absolutely could not hear it with door closed.
You could use the money saved to budget for some new tires... ;)
 
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Question:

Head bolt loosening, middle first, or ends first to break them all loose??
 

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Question:

Head bolt loosening, middle first, or ends first to break them all loose??
Most guys don't worry about it,but if want,just reverse the tightening sequence Ed.Are you replacing the head bolts / cam bolt and crank bolt,techinically they should all be replaced with new bolts
 
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EdGs

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Most guys don't worry about it,but if want,just reverse the tightening sequence Ed.Are you replacing the head bolts / cam bolt and crank bolt,techinically they should all be replaced with new bolts
Yes, replacing head, crank, and cam bolts.

Factory bolts are expensive, but there's nothing cheap about this repair anyway.

She's gonna get a new cam, lifters, mds and oil control valves, springs, factory head gaskets, etc. And factory timing components.
 
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EdGs

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Driver side valve cover pulled.
20250525_123313.jpg
As far as I can tell, none of the pushrods are loose, the ones I can get my fingers on I can spin them. No play on the rockers between the pushrods and valve springs.

What is this connector bolted to the rear of the driver side head? Ground?
20250525_123342.jpg
 

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Yes, replacing head, crank, and cam bolts.

Factory bolts are expensive, but there's nothing cheap about this repair anyway.

She's gonna get a new cam, lifters, mds and oil control valves, springs, factory head gaskets, etc. And factory timing components.

I've never done this level of automotive work but this sounds like my go-to method for other things were very involved.

If I'm going to spend a lot of money and time on a project, and I don't want to do it twice, I want to clean everything and replace everything.

I'm with you Ed, I would NOT want to do this twice on the same motor.
 
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EdGs

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And I'm leaning toward the Hellcat oil pump with a swap of my stock relief spring. The Hellcat pump is also about $30 cheaper, too.

I'm not convinced it will help with the lifter roller oiling after watching Uncle Tony's video (thanks, Rick), but if it gives me some more pressure and volume at idle, and does not hurt, why not?
 
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EdGs

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You could use the money saved to budget for some new tires... ;)
I dont know why that picture turned out like that, it made the tire look bald. I still have some life in these(Nitto DuraGrapplers Highway Tread), but they weren't the ones I wanted. Their durability sucks, IMO.

20250520_181119(1).jpg
 
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Wild one

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Vacuum deployed.

Looks like my heads are coming off anyway.

@Wild one, vacuum got it, seemed like a piece of plastic bag. Thank you for spotting it.

I'm gonna try to take copious pictures of this experience, hoping it helps someone else down the line. Thank you all so much, keep the tips and comments coming, please!
That was @Ken226 who spotted it Ed,i'd missed it,until he pointed it out,so you gotta thank him,not me,lol.
Get some pics of the head ports after you get them all cleaned up,so guys can see the differance after cleaning.
 

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Driver side valve cover pulled.
View attachment 567055
As far as I can tell, none of the pushrods are loose, the ones I can get my fingers on I can spin them. No play on the rockers between the pushrods and valve springs.

What is this connector bolted to the rear of the driver side head? Ground?
View attachment 567056
Yup,and don't forget to reconnect it,like alot of guys do,if it's in rough shape,i'd even consider replacing it,as it's kind of important.
 

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Yes, replacing head, crank, and cam bolts.

Factory bolts are expensive, but there's nothing cheap about this repair anyway.

She's gonna get a new cam, lifters, mds and oil control valves, springs, factory head gaskets, etc. And factory timing components.
Curious why you're not doing a mild cam upgrade? Is it just a money thing with the extra cost of tuning?
 
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EdGs

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Partly, yes. I'm having to borrow against my house due to debt and then this happens.

So, stock is fine. Hopefully I can get another 100k+, then I can think about a fun toy build.

Just want dependable, and she has been great to me
 

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Partly, yes. I'm having to borrow against my house due to debt and then this happens.

So, stock is fine. Hopefully I can get another 100k+, then I can think about a fun toy build.

Just want dependable, and she has been great to me
Understandable...debt is a ******! Hoping you get her back on the road and running like a top!
 
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EdGs

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Ok, I'm probably gonna have lots more questions during this teardown and repair.

Should I just post questions adding to this thread, or post as new threads and add the links into this thread??

I was already planning to update the problems found into the first post of this thread and modify the title, so that users can read what the issue/solution was and then decide to keep going through the multi-page thread for the progression. Kind of to condense the content.

Thoughts??
 
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Ken226

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I was already planning to update the problems found into the first post of this thread and modify the title, so that users can read what the issue/solution was and then decide to keep goung through the multi-page thread for the progression. Kind of to condense the content.

Thoughts??

I like this idea.
 

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