Do I have a lifter going out? YES, I DO!!!!!!

[Ken226]

Does anyone have the torque values for the timing chain tensioner and guide bolts?

As near as I can tell the 9.8 bolts have a maximum tightening torque of 9.82 ft-lbs. (117 in-lbs.) The 10 9 bolts have a max of 12.5 ft-lbs. (150 in-lbs.).

I'm thinking I should be good at 9 - 9.5 ft-lbs. (108 - 114 in-lbs.). Thoughts?
View attachment 572222
The difference between the originals (aside from head height) is they have an unthreaded part under the head where the cone washer sits.
View attachment 572223
I can transfer the cone washer to the new bolts, might have to open up the ID of the washer a little.

Do you think I will be ok, or am I better off with OE bolts here?

They are not expensive, 2 OE bolts probably cost a little more than the pack of 6 Dorman bolts I bought.

By all rights, it should be ok, but once I close it up, I am comitted (and I just might be committed by the time I get done.....lol)

From my factory service manual:

 

[EdGs]

From my factory service manual:

View attachment 572226

Thank you, Ken.

I found it at almost the same time. Only 8 ft-lbs


It even says tighten the camshaft bolt to 72 ft-lbs.

I tightened mine to 90 ft-lbs.

 

[Wild one]

Thank you, Ken.

I found it at almost the same time. Only 8 ft-lbs
View attachment 572227

It even says tighten the camshaft bolt to 72 ft-lbs.
View attachment 572228
I tightened mine to 90 ft-lbs.

90 is the proper torque on the phazor Ed. There's a pile of differant torque specs listed on differant bulletins,sometimes you gotta guess and use common sense when figuring out what's the proper torque,it also doesn't hurt to look up the actual bolt torque specs when you run into a bulletin telling you a suspect bolt torque,aka a 6 mm bolt with a 21 ft-lb spec. Other then head bolts and cam bolts i just tighten them by hand,as i trust my feel more then i trust alot of bolt torque specs

 

[EdGs]

90 is the proper torque on the phazor Ed. There's a pile of differant torque specs listed on differant bulletins,sometimes you gotta guess and use common sense when figuring out what's the proper torque,it also doesn't hurt to look up the actual bolt torque specs when you run into a bulletin telling you a suspect bolt torque,aka a 6 mm bolt with a 21 ft-lb spec. Other then head bolts and cam bolts i just tighten them by hand,as i trust my feel more then i trust alot of bolt torque specs

Yeah, I read that on a few other threads and it makes perfect sense due to the bolt size/grade.

I hear you on the small bolts with feel, I wanted to make sure I had the right stuff on the internals, I worked too long to fornicate something up now.

 

[EdGs]

There's an auto shop across the street from my work, I had them order 2 of the bolts 6509174AA, they'll be delivered tomorrow from my local dealer. About $8 for 2 bolts including a few dollars for delivery.

Not bad, and I feel better knowing that OE parts are there.

 

[EdGs]

Well folks, my cam and lifter repair saga gets better and better.

Several posts back, it was suggested I replace my rockers due to wear on valve stem tips.

I showed the worn valve that I aready changed out to the mechanic at the shop by my work and told him it has been suggested to change the rocker assembly (ies).

He was in agreement (I kinda knew he would be. Common sense, high mileage, and wear).

Plus, checking the valve heights with a straightedge, I found the exhaust valve on cylinder 3 was a little short too (only.003 on this one, the intake valve I already changed was short .017).

I asked the mechanic since the 2 valves had wear (and naturally the rockers, too), should I think about the other valves. He just gave me the look with a nod and said, "It would be best."

SH*T, Suck me sideways.

One of those deals where you know the answer in the back of your mind, but you try to talk yourself out of it.

So, I presented the idea(s) to the BOSS (you all know who I mean.....lol), and the additional CO$T. I then got my A$$ summarily chewed out how I should've just bought the new engine and paid someone to do it because I was taking too long getting it done, yada-yada-yada.

I tried explaining that even buying an engine and having someone change it still costs a good bit more than what I've already spent.

You all know how that went........

So, I decided on new rockers, and first remove and check the length on all valves, just to see whats what, and replace some or all).

On top of all this, I realized that in my excitement to get the cam installed, I forgot to pull the front pipe plugs to run a brush into the lifter galleys.

I have not put the lifters in yet, debating what I can do about those galleys. I don't want to pull the cam phaser (although it would only cost a new cam bolt, and some backtracking).

Sorry for the long-winded post, suggestions welcomed. Thank you all for bearing with me.

 

[Ken226]

I don't want to pull the cam phaser (although it would only cost a new cam bolt, and some backtracking).

Sorry for the long-winded post, suggestions welcomed. Thank you all for bearing with me.

9$ vs ruined main, rod and cam bearings

 

[EdGs]

I think I also have to pull the MDS solenoids, too???

 

[Ken226]

I think I also have to pull the MDS solenoids, too???

I'm not sure what all should be pulled, but they aren't hard to remove. You still have the heads off and the intake off, so easy access right?

You caught yours alot earlier than some guys, and many of them just did a cam swap with no flushing, cleaning or anything and i it worked out fine. But, i hate leaving anything to chance or luck.

Do you have a bore scope? A quick look inside the oil passages might be worth some peace of mind.

 

[EdGs]

No borescope.

I will have to look closer at those galleys. If I have to, I will pull the MDS solenoids if need be.

As far as luck, I can't pick a lottery ticket to save my life......lol

RockAuto is out of stock on the Mopar rocker assemblies.

Am tempted to buy the Melling valves, but scared at the same time, they are 1/3 the price of OE.

I got my a$$ chewed out by the boss, I am ready to say Fukk it, button it up, and take my chances, so tired of catching hell.

 

[EdGs]

Question #642:

Recommendations on fuel injector o-rings?

Ma Mopar is smoking some good sh*t!!!!

 

[Ken226]

These are the options that pop up when I search on AutoZone.





According to FelPro, this is the size:

 

[Ken226]

Also, did a search for the FelPro part# ES70599 from AutoZone, on google, and got this from Amazon. Shows for a F150, but as long as they are the same size and part#.

Amazon.com

The ones on Amazon show "Ram" under compatibility:

 

[EdGs]

Thank you @Ken226. Opted for the FelPro. Got 4 sets to cover 2 for each injector. I could swear the original rings appeared to be two different sizes, but won't be surprised if not. Might just be the way they fit.

Sent a message to AllMoparParts for a quote 24 hours ago, but no response, so RockAuto got the order. Another $1157 gone.

All 4 rockers, 7 intake valves, 8 exhaust valves, new cam bolt, exhaust gaskets, and the injector o-rings.

Just watch.

Next it'll be the water pump. Or hoses. Ed luck in play.....lol.

 

[Wild one]

You're gonna be proud Ed,finally got around to taking some pic's of the heads today,lol.
We're stalled for now waiting on headers,so we didn't get the heads cleaned up till today.
Just so you know,i was mumbling under my breath " That Damn Ed,he's making me do more work then i normally do,trying to keep up to him"

 

[EdGs]

You're gonna be proud Ed,finally got around to taking some pic's of the heads today,lol.
We're stalled for now waiting on headers,so we didn't get the heads cleaned up till today.
Just so you know,i was mumbling under my breath " That Damn Ed,he's making me do more work then i normally do,trying to keep up to him"

Yeah, but my trucks been down for a few months....lol

So, you're leaps and bounds ahead of me, Rick.

Say a prayer that I get mine back together properly. Once I install the new valves, have to make sure they don't leak.

Hopefully, will clean injectors tomorrow.

 

[Wild one]

Yeah, but my trucks been down for a few months....lol

So, you're leaps and bounds ahead of me, Rick.

Say a prayer that I get mine back together properly. Once I install the new valves, have to make sure they don't leak.

Hopefully, will clean injectors tomorrow.

Give the new valves a hand lap job,and you'll be good to go Ed.
Having to wait on headers is throwing a monkey wrench into this job,as he wants to hit the last Street Legals of the season,and they're at the end of this month,so i'm hoping the headers show up sooner then later,other wise i'll be in a bind getting it back together in time for his tuner to do a couple revisions before it goes to the track.

 

[EdGs]

Give the new valves a hand lap job,and you'll be good to go Ed.
Having to wait on headers is throwing a monkey wrench into this job,as he wants to hit the last Street Legals of the season,and they're at the end of this month,so i'm hoping the headers show up sooner then later,other wise i'll be in a bind getting it back together in time for his tuner to do a couple revisions before it goes to the track.

On the one intake valve I already replaced, I just put the valve in and with the head sitting on a paper towel, held upward pressure gripping the stem, sprayed some brakleen in the intake port, the lifted the head up a little by the stem.

No stain on the paper towel. Released pressure on the stem, and the fluid ran out onto the paper towel.

I am so nervous about putting it together right.

 

[Wild one]

On the one intake valve I already replaced, I just put the valve in and with the head sitting on a paper towel, held upward pressure gripping the stem, sprayed some brakleen in the intake port, the lifted the head up a little by the stem.

No stain on the paper towel. Released pressure on the stem, and the fluid ran out onto the paper towel.

I am so nervous about putting it together right.

It's usually a good idea to lap in a new valve,especially if it's going onto a used seat Ed. A few minutes with some lapping compound is all it takes ,and i think it's worth your time to do.

 

[EdGs]

It's usually a good idea to lap in a new valve,especially if it's going onto a used seat Ed. A few minutes with some lapping compound is all it takes ,and i think it's worth your time to do.

I was wondering about that.

I have several different lapping compounds:

Permatex in a small tube
Clover 220 grit silicon carbide grease type.
Clover 400 grit silicon carbide grease type
Some Clover dry that you mix with a little oil, it breaks down finer as you use it.

Is one more suited than the others?