Do I have a lifter going out? YES, I DO!!!!!!

[Wild one]

Good to know, Rick. Thank you.

Do you use just a 1/4" dot on the threads near the end of the bolt, or go all the way around on 2 or 3 threads? Let it dry first as well?

I had heard before about using a very small bit of oil on head bolts, but that was a different engine, too.

BTW, my lifters are still soaking (2 weeks +) in WalMart Supertech 5w-30......lol

Usually just a little dot,it'll usually run around the threads on it's own. I'd run the head bolts in with just a finger smear of oil on the threads,and go easy with that finger smear,as the holes are blind,and you don't want oil dripping off the threads and hydraulicing the bolt. Make sure you hand rotate the engine with at least 1 plug out of each cylinder several times before hitting the starter,that'll let the lifters bleed down so nothing crashes into each other when you hit the starter. I was talking to my dealer tech buddy,and he now says Chrysler reconmends installing the lifters with out soaking,me i still prefer a soak,and several hand rotations before trying to start it

 

[EdGs]

When I first opened the lifter packages, I bled the check valves off like I saw in one of the videos I watched (from MMX I believe). The guy in the vid said if not bled, they can cause a valve to stay open.

It was for non-mds lifters, not sure if it matters

In this video, Byron covers how (and why) to bleed down OEM HEMI Lifters.

Shop MMX: https://modernmusclextreme.com

youtu.be

I will do that again before I install them.

 

[Wild one]

When I first opened the lifter packages, I bled the check valves off like I saw in one of the videos I watched (from MMX I believe). The guy in the vid said if not bled, they can cause a valve to stay open.

It was for non-mds lifters, not sure if it matters

In this video, Byron covers how (and why) to bleed down OEM HEMI Lifters.

Shop MMX: https://modernmusclextreme.com

youtu.be

I will do that again before I install them.

Good idea,but still rotate the engine by hand several times,as that'll back bleed them into the pushrods.The oil pump won't fill the system when you're hand rotating it,and the springs will push the pushrods into the lifters,which will put some oil into the pushrods.Plus if anything is binding you'll feel it with-out bending anything like a pushrod or valve,and can fix it before hitting the starter

 

[EdGs]

How many rev's before the timing marks line up again?

 

[EdGs]

Just was checking out my last part of my order.

Ordered 1 OE cam bolt, got sent this:



Guess I now have 4 tries to get it right....

 

[Wild one]

How many rev's before the timing marks line up again?

Probably 90 or more,lol

 

[Wild one]

Just was checking out my last part of my order.

Ordered 1 OE cam bolt, got sent this:
View attachment 572698
View attachment 572697

Guess I now have 4 tries to get it right....

That's a score if you had any use for them,but i'm not sure what other application you could use 3 of them on,lol
I'd take one or 2 off your hands if you were closer

 

[EdGs]

Probably 90 or more,lol

I will find out when I get back working on her, and count the crank/cam sprocket teeth.

Will be another useless tidbit of info for my brain.......lol

 

[Ken226]

I will find out when I get back working on her, and count the crank/cam sprocket teeth.

Will be another useless tidbit of info for my brain.......lol

Cam/crank timing is always 1:2 ratio. Specifically the 5.7 Hemi has 23/46 teeth, so the sprocket marks will align every other revolution.

The marked chain links however are not evenly spaced, having more space on one side than the other due, with 2 additional links on the tensioner side.

There are 78 total links (including the inner links). But, the marked links aren't evenly spaced. 38 between marked links on once side, and 40 links between marks on the tensioner side.

So, for the timing chain marked links to come back into correct alignment with the sprocket marks, the cam phaser sprocket will have to had rotated 39 times, and the crank sprocket 78x.

That's how many revolutions it takes before the crank/cam ratio, and 38 links between marks all become whole-number divisible.

I could be wrong though. It's early, i'm only on my first cup of coffee, and just counted the teeth/links on a google image search while plugging the ratios into Desmos online graphing calculator.

 

[EdGs]

I never though about the chain being longer on one side. My brain was saying "2 rotations crank, 1 rotation cam".

I would have seen it eventually when looking at my old chain and sprockets.

Good to see I'm not the only one that wanted to figure it out.....lol. Thank you, @Ken226.

 

[Wild one]

I never though about the chain being longer on one side. My brain was saying "2 rotations crank, 1 rotation cam".

I would have seen it eventually when looking at my old chain and sprockets.

Good to see I'm not the only one that wanted to figure it out.....lol. Thank you, @Ken226.

I've never actually figured it out like @Ken226 has,but 78 crank revolutions sounds about right.
I also owe him for doing the actual calculations.
Thanks Ken

 

[EdGs]

Question about valve lapping: I did cylinder 1 new valves, and noticed the finish on the mating surfaces of the valve and seat went from shiny to dull grey. Even, but dull.

Am I correct to (assume...lol) this is normal?

If I clean the valve and seat, oil and install the valve, I can spray brakleen in the port on top of the valves, and just by hand pressure on the stem, it does not leak past the seat, until I relieve pressure on the stem.

Want to make sure I'm ok before I screw up all 16 valves....lol.

Thank you all for putting up with this long, winding thread.

 

[Wild one]

Question about valve lapping: I did cylinder 1 new valves, and noticed the finish on the mating surfaces of the valve and seat went from shiny to dull grey. Even, but dull.

Am I correct to (assume...lol) this is normal?

If I clean the valve and seat, oil and install the valve, I can spray brakleen in the port on top of the valves, and just by hand pressure on the stem, it does not leak past the seat, until I relieve pressure on the stem.

Want to make sure I'm ok before I screw up all 16 valves....lol.

Thank you all for putting up with this long, winding thread.

That's pretty normal Ed,most valve lapping compounds leave a dull finish.

 

[EdGs]

"That's pretty normal Ed,most valve lapping compounds leave a dull finish."

Thanks, Rick.

Kinda thought so, but wanted to be sure.

Seat:

New vs. new lapped:

 

[EdGs]

I tried to find how much torque on the screw cap for the relief spring on the oil pump, but all I found was a "Do not disassemble the relief spring or relief valve of the oil pump, or it must be replaced." warning.

There appeared to have been some sort of sealer on the threads of the spring cap, so I put a dab of blue threadlocker on it, and torqued it to 20, 30, 35, then 40 ft-lbs.

Hope it's tight enough, since it takes a 10mm hex key and it's close to a 5/8 thread.

 

[Wild one]

I tried to find how much torque on the screw cap for the relief spring on the oil pump, but all I found was a "Do not disassemble the relief spring or relief valve of the oil pump, or it must be replaced." warning.

There appeared to have been some sort of sealer on the threads of the spring cap, so I put a dab of blue threadlocker on it, and torqued it to 20, 30, 35, then 40 ft-lbs.

Hope it's tight enough, since it takes a 10mm hex key and it's close to a 5/8 thread.

I'd think at 40 you'll be okay,i've seen 35 for the relief spring bolt,but i didn't put much stock in it,as the bolt is big enough to handle alot more then 35 lb-ft,i know i'd feel better with it at 40 lb-ft

 

[EdGs]

I'd think at 40 you'll be okay,i've seen 35 for the relief spring bolt,but i didn't put much stock in it,as the bolt is big enough to handle alot more then 35 lb-ft,i know i'd feel better with it at 40 lb-ft

When I broke it loose, it was on the bench, and it took a little ummph. Now l, tightening to 40, I almost couldn't get the wrench to click, so I'm hoping it was more pressure than loosening.

I can always give it a nudge once the pumps bolted in, perhaps?

 

[Wild one]

When I broke it loose, it was on the bench, and it took a little ummph. Now l, tightening to 40, I alnost couldn't get the wrench to click, so I'm hoping it was more pressure than loosening.

I can always give it a nudge once the pumps bolted in, perhaps?

I wouldn't be reefing on it after it's installed Ed,lol. At 40 with loctite i think it's plenty tight

 

[EdGs]

Gonna stop for today, got valves for 1, 3, 5, and 7 lapped. Will carry on tomorrow.

Here's how scatterbrained I am: i was rounding up old parts that I have removed and am replacing. I had taken the old timing chain off and put it somewhere, but I'll be damned if I csn find it in this 28 x 48 shop.

I could swear I hung it on something, but now I think a leprechaun must've run off with it.....lol. Getting close to needing that rubber room.......

 

[Wild one]

Gonna stop for today, got valves for 1, 3, 5, and 7 lapped. Will carry on tomorrow.

Here's how scatterbrained I am: i was rounding up old parts that I have removed and am replacing. I had taken the old timing chain off and put it somewhere, but I'll be damned if I csn find it in this 28 x 48 shop.

I could swear I hung it on something, but now I think a leprechaun must've run off with it.....lol. Getting close to needing that rubber room.......

Don't feel bad,i needed a couple little mini cat 02 sensors spacers,a week ago,i knew i had some,but i couldn't find them,so i ordered a couple more,well cleaning up today after doing some welding for a buddy,i found them,sitting right out in plain sight,and not only that i have 8 of the damn things. Somedays i swear i'm blind in 1 eye and can't see out the other eye,