Do I have a lifter going out? YES, I DO!!!!!!

[EdGs]

Mine idles at about 500-550rpm and about 32psi when at operating temp. If I shift into neutral, it goes up to about 600 as well. So, that all sounds pretty normal.

Except that obviously, your oil pressure is higher at idle.

When I got my truck, it did the same thing about 1.5 seconds after a full stop in drive, 500 -525 RPM and 36-38 psi. After putting on the tune and adjusting to 700 - 725 RPM idle. it steps down to 675-700 after a second now with a little over 40 psi hot. At highway speed and hot, oil pressure is normally 58-59 psi.

Engine internals (cam, lifters, oil pump and such) are all original as far as I know. Just a 91 octane tune w/ some minor changes, low restriction exhaust and a CAI.

Good to know I'm not the only one whose truck does this. Just something I've noticed for a good while.

@Wild one, I bought that very 2-pack of MAF/TB cleaner.

Gotta give the girl a good detailing, too. She is a bit grimy after 6 months of sitting, and Mr. Greasy-hands working on her......lol.

 

[EdGs]

Had to run to the store earlier, and my coolant temp climbed to 224° then went down.

Ed luck says it's gonna be water pump, E-fan, or clutch fan, or any combination of the 3.

Outside chance of air pocket or faulty Motorad 192° tstat.

Not complaing, btw, all 3 are original to the truck.

 

[Ken226]

Had to run to the store earlier, and my coolant temp climbed to 224° then went down.

Ed luck says it's gonna be water pump, E-fan, or clutch fan, or any combination of the 3.

Outside chance of air pocket or faulty Motorad 192° tstat.

Not complaing, btw, all 3 are original to the truck.

It could be, or not. Depends.

Did you happen to be driving a little more aggresive than usual, while the engine is below normal operating temp? I can make my truck do that pretty easily just by driving it a certain way.


There is a bit of hysteresis in the cooling system, in that the cylinders and combustion chambers are conducting heat into the coolant long before the thermostat opens. If your under more load, or driving more aggressively, you can get alot more heat into the coolant before the thermostat starts opening. It takes a minute or two to open.

If you happen to start putting alot of heat into the engine by driving it more aggressively, under higher load while the coolant temp is still low enough that the thermostat is closed, then you'll get more heat into the coolant quicker and see a more rapid rise in temp before the thermostat opens and lets the radiator start cooling things down.


Basically, you'll see the same asymptotic sinusoidal pattern of the temp chasing the open/close cycle of the thermostat, except with taller peaks and deeper troughs at the start, then they'll go back to normal, closing in on the thermostats temp threshold.




Not saying you were driving more aggressively with the engine still below the thermostats opening temp, but that's usually when I see the my coolant temp cycling abnormally above the thermostats design temp, then just as rapidly dropping back down when the thermostat opens.


All that said, you just finished a major engine surgery so you'll certainly be hyper-vigilant for awhile, noticing every little thing. I do the same thing.

 

[EdGs]

It could be, or not. Depends.

Did you happen to be driving a little more aggresive than usual, while the engine is below normal operating temp? I can make my truck do that pretty easily just by driving it a certain way........
..... Not saying you were driving more aggressively with the engine still below the thermostats opening temp, but that's usually when I see the my coolant temp cycling abnormally above the thermostats design temp, then just as rapidly dropping back down when the thermostat opens.


All that said, you just finished a major engine surgery so you'll certainly be hyper-vigilant for awhile, noticing every little thing. I do the same thing.

Who, me?

Actually, I kinda was. I had to leave work to run some food to my sick kid about 3 hours after getting here. I ran to the store about a mile away, spent 20 min. in the store then ran across the street from the store to deliver it.

Had to run back to the store, so I had to make a right, and go down a bit, and make a u-turn My foot miggght have slipped a bit on the skinny pedal.... Once, or twice.....lol

I'm super-focused on every noise and feel, too.

 

[Grams]

Anytime you drive your truck….then bring it to a stop and let it idle…. the coolant temp will increase for a short period as the engine is “heat-soaked” and cooling air is reduced thru the radiator.
After a few minutes it should stabilize again.

Also, remember that in such example, should you park it “down-wind”….the further reduction of cooling air (despite the cooling fans’ efforts)… cooling-thru the radiator is reduced…and a “tail-wind” will bring air from beneath and behind the vehicle… taking hot engine and exhaust manifold & system forward toward the radiatior…further reducing any available cooling.
Until the coolant has circulated for awhile the indications may be higher than expected.
This is all normal… as-is lower oil pressure when a hot engine is idled. Any oil press above 20 psi or so is sufficient to prevent extraordinary bearing wear. The biggest worry of long-period-idling is lack of piston-cooling due to loss of “splash” and “crankshaft-sling” no-longer providing cooling to the piston undersides and reduced “sling” to the lower cyl-walls.

 

[EdGs]

It might just be that I wasn't paying as close attention to coolant temps, but I seem to remember when my truck was younger, I never saw temps over 203°.

 

[Wild one]

It might just be that I wasn't paying as close attention to coolant temps, but I seem to remember when my truck was younger, I never saw temps over 203°.

Should never get anywhere near 224 with a 192 t-stat. Keep an eye on it,as the chances of getting a good thermostat these days are very low.Did you test it in a pot of water before installing it Ed.
Motorad t-stats have a horrible rep these days

 

[EdGs]

Should never get anywhere near 224 with a 192 t-stat. Keep an eye on it,as the chances of getting a good thermostat these days are very low.Did you test it in a pot of water before installing it Ed.
Motorad t-stats have a horrible rep these days

Yes, tested on stove, it began opening in the mid-190's seemed full open by 205°, and closed again in the mid-190's.

I have my original 203° that I took the guts out of.....lol

 

[Wild one]

Yes, tested on stove, it began opening in the mid-190's seemed full open by 205°, and closed again in the mid-190's.

I have my original 203° that I took the guts out of.....lolView attachment 575529

If it acts up again,i'd go back to the gutted original,it's not like it gets cold in Florida

 

[EdGs]

If it acts up again,i'd go back to the gutted original,it's not like it gets cold in Florida

It was 39° yesterday morning, and 44° this morning. It's 72° as I write this.

 

[Yardbird]

At least your temp doesn't look like mine did while driving in a small town last week. It also went from 194 to 228 in less than 4 minutes when I had to take a detour up a very steep and crooked road the day before.

It will run 194-196 all day long until a steep climb at low speed or in town. At 228 it will start cooling down some.

How any company can think fast rise and fall of temps don't hurt an engine. Stupid people.

 

[EdGs]

The 220°+ temps worry me. Not too far from the 240° "Ding!", "You've won a blown head gasket, with extras".

I an a chronic worrier, too. That does not help.

 

[Wild one]

It was 39° yesterday morning, and 44° this morning. It's 72° as I write this.

44 is about our high for today,so you're not getting any sympathy from me Ed
Its at least calm today,so i'll crawl up on my roof in a bit and clean my evestroughs again,then they're good for this year,

 

[EdGs]

If it acts up again,i'd go back to the gutted original,it's not like it gets cold in Florida

Isn't that basically just a restrictor plate, then?

I'd actually like to have constant circulation anyway, then I know it can never stick closed.

44 is about our high for today,so you're not getting any sympathy from me Ed
Its at least calm today,so i'll crawl up on my roof in a bit and clean my evestroughs again,then they're good for this year,

Come on down to SW FL, Rick. Supoosed to have sun and highs around 80 this weekend.

 

[Wild one]

About this time of year Florida starts to sound like a good place to be
I used to love winters up here when i was a kid,but now i have a bad hate on for it
You might get a thermostat rational code,but alot of guys report after clearing it a couple times with a cheap code reader it never comes back.
If that thermostat gives you issues,i wouldn't think twice about doing a thermostat delete Ed.
I'd send you one,but i think shipping would cost more then what 797 sells their whole kit for.

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[EdGs]

Wonder if I should just make one. We have a machine shop at my work, and plenty of 6061 aluminum. As far as gaskets go I have 2 old thermostats, or could buy new ones.

 

[Grams]

As an “old timer” meckanick” … I do not subscribe to the removal of the thermostat for several reasons.

Thermostats provide a useful and necessary service…. They allow a cold engine to warm up to design operating temperatures quickly…and then hold that engine within a scheduled temperature-range…. A Range for which the lubricants and machinery tolerances and peripheral systems are designed to operate.

The removal of the thermostat is well-known to be contrary to good engine operations…hence this 797 and similar products which claim to operate it with sufficient coolant-flow-restrictions to allow the coolant dwell-time sufficient to absorb the heat and carry it away.
The other side of that coin is to provide a flow-rate that allows the radiator system time to remove that heat from the coolant before it recirculates.

A thermostat (properly-working) does regulate that coolant-flow within a narrow temperature operating range. A dumb restrictor plate cannot compensate for the varying engine demands, outputs, and associated heat-variations.

I believe the Best response to a dysfunctional thermostat …is to replace it with a Good One.

The wild temp excursions witnessed should First be Confirmed not to be an “indicator” problem….before other solutions are sought. IMO

YMMV

 

[Wild one]

As an “old timer” meckanick” … I do not subscribe to the removal of the thermostat for several reasons.

Thermostats provide a useful and necessary service…. They allow a cold engine to warm up to design operating temperatures quickly…and then hold that engine within a scheduled temperature-range…. A Range for which the lubricants and machinery tolerances and peripheral systems are designed to operate.

The removal of the thermostat is well-known to be contrary to good engine operations…hence this 797 and similar products which claim to operate it with sufficient coolant-flow-restrictions to allow the coolant dwell-time sufficient to absorb the heat and carry it away.
The other side of that coin is to provide a flow-rate that allows the radiator system time to remove that heat from the coolant before it recirculates.

A thermostat (properly-working) does regulate that coolant-flow within a narrow temperature operating range. A dumb restrictor plate cannot compensate for the varying engine demands, outputs, and associated heat-variations.

I believe the Best response to a dysfunctional thermostat …is to replace it with a Good One.

The wild temp excursions witnessed should First be Confirmed not to be an “indicator” problem….before other solutions are sought. IMO

YMMV

Only downside to your theory is finding that "good" thermostat,these days you have a better chance of winning the lottery.
Back in the days of bi-metal thermostats you could buy one and it'd last for basically the life time of the vehicle,these days the pellet thermostats are basically garbage in my opinion,as they have more issues then the old bi-metal thermostats ever had
I don't really agree with all you've said here,as there's lots of us running thermostat deletes here in Alberta,and there isn't a hell'va lot of differance in warm-up times. The majority of guys running a thermostat delete notice alot more stable temperatures,and that includes cars north of a 1,000 rwhp.I run one of the local guys deletes in my 300 in the summer,and also had one in my wifes 6.4 Challenger,both hardly ever vary off 180/185 when moving and might creep to 195 stopped in traffic
I think i'd rather have a thermostat delete,then a thermostat that's stuck closed and takes out the heads when it overheats.
For less then 20 bucks you should try one out during the summer,be a good chance to also service your 15's cooling system at the same time.
Once you try one out,then you can speak from real world experience,instead of just theory

 

[Wild one]

Wonder if I should just make one. We have a machine shop at my work, and plenty of 6061 aluminum. As far as gaskets go I have 2 old thermostats, or could buy new ones.

There's not much to making one,my buddy up here is making them and selling singles for $5.00 Canuck

 

[Grams]

Only downside to your theory is finding that "good" thermostat,these days you have a better chance of winning the lottery.
Back in the days of bi-metal thermostats you could buy one and it'd last for basically the life time of the vehicle,these days the pellet thermostats are basically garbage in my opinion,as they have more issues then the old bi-metal thermostats ever had
I don't really agree with all you've said here,as there's lots of us running thermostat deletes here in Alberta,and there isn't a hell'va lot of differance in warm-up times. The majority of guys running a thermostat delete notice alot more stable temperatures,and that includes cars north of a 1,000 rwhp.I run one of the local guys deletes in my 300 in the summer,and also had one in my wifes 6.4 Challenger,both hardly ever vary off 180/185 when moving and might creep to 195 stopped in traffic
I think i'd rather have a thermostat delete,then a thermostat that's stuck closed and takes out the heads when it overheats.
For less then 20 bucks you should try one out during the summer,be a good chance to also service your 15's cooling system at the same time.
Once you try one out,then you can speak from real world experience,instead of just theory

Maybe we could collaborate …and create a thermostat housing with a Manual By-Pass…. or Bluetooth By-Pass…. or perhaps create a secondary routing / by-pass that automatically opened at 210F or such….and market that!