Do I have a lifter going out? YES, I DO!!!!!!

[JHoward]

Friends call him dub, nice guy sticking around after he lost his ram. This place sure beats a lot of other sites with good folks.

Thanks, Mike ... I gotta hang around, a RAM may just come back my way and I'll be able to "fit right back in" ...

 

[EdGs]

Us folks down here in the southern US(Louisiana)feel like were going to freeze to death at those cold temps in the 30's ... however, where I reside is a different type of cold compared to where Ed is ... we have this thing called humidity, even in winter!, that makes a "bone cold chill" different from what most of you folks experience ... well, maybe?

Being from SW FL, I am all too familiar with humidity. I am out of my element here in NC.

Flying out tomorrow AM, layover in Chicago.....lol.

 

[Wild one]

Us folks down here in the southern US(Louisiana)feel like were going to freeze to death at those cold temps in the 30's ... however, where I reside is a different type of cold compared to where Ed is ... we have this thing called humidity, even in winter!, that makes a "bone cold chill" different from what most of you folks experience ... well, maybe?

I'd take your "bone cold chill " any day in the winter,at least things still start at 20F and above,they don't start worth a crap at -40F Then after they do start,it takes 5 miles before the tires are round again and quit thumping

 

[EdGs]

I'd take your "bone cold chill " any day in the winter,at least things still start at 20F and above,they don't start worth a crap at -40F Then after they do start,it takes 5 miles before the tires are round again and quit thumping

I like snow and everything, but screw that!

 

[EdGs]

I like snow and everything, but screw that!

Went from this in Chicago

To this:


Sunshine Skyway Bridge across Tampa Bay:

 

[crackerjack1957]

Fly north to go south......even the birds no better so they can't be called birdbrain....LoL

 

[Smogman]

If that were my truck, redline 5w30 and a RP 20-820 would be going in.

Saw this video. Very interesting on testing different oils

Is Amsoil Really the Best? We Put It To The Test!

Amsoil Signature Series - is it the best motor oil? To find out, we put it to the test versus 7 other synthetic oils - both foreign and domestic, boutique an...

youtu.be

 

[Burla]

Saw this video. Very interesting on testing different oils

Is Amsoil Really the Best? We Put It To The Test!

Amsoil Signature Series - is it the best motor oil? To find out, we put it to the test versus 7 other synthetic oils - both foreign and domestic, boutique an...

youtu.be

That test was designed to show flaws in high performance oils, not so much to show how different applications can benefit. see synthetic oil thread for more info been talked about lately, and lake spoke the truth but if you just read the tests you miss the point. Different applications have different needs. Thanks

 

[Smogman]

That test was designed to show flaws in high performance oils, not so much to show how different applications can benefit. see synthetic oil thread for more info been talked about lately, and lake spoke the truth but if you just read the tests you miss the point. Different applications have different needs. Thanks

Exactly, I totally agree. Just good info to have.

 

[Ken226]

When I hook up my code reader, I get a permanent code for the P0201. If I reset it, the code is still there.
View attachment 575340
Does it take some drive cycles to erase It?

Hey Ed, I thought you'd get a kick out of this. When I saw those codes I remembered this thread.

You'll probably recognize the codes. The part relevant to you is at about the 16 minute mark.

I'd imagine it would be even harder if someone else did it, then brought it to you to figure out.

2015 Ram 2500 6.4 HEMI – Engine Replaced… Now It Misfires & The Battery Light Is On! $11K Problem?!

A customer brought in this 2015 Ram 2500 with the 6.4L HEMI after another shop installed a replacement engine. When the job was finished, the truck had a sev...

youtu.be

Except, this guy drove it awhile like that so the injector driver mosfets in the PCM got fried. They failed in a state closed to ground. Luckily Ed's only ran for a few minutes before he caught it.

Solid State relays, PNP semiconductors, mosfets all like to fail in a closed circuit state. A couple years ago a SSR in my CeraKote oven died. The thing ran for days before I caught it, @ 900* drawing 5500 watts of power and ran up a gnarly electric bill.

 

[EdGs]

Still amazed that I didn't fry anything in mine. Like he said in the video, usually at the first key cycle, it's too late.

Oh yeah, all those little solid-state devices love to fail in the 'on' state. At my work, we had a solder machine that used a mechanical contactor as the heater driver, controlled by a PID circuit as well (no clue why). At the 'set' temp, all you'd hear was "thunk, thunk" when it was maintaning temperature.

Until one day about 6 months after we got it when the ouput contactor decided to weld itself closed, and the solder in the pot turned this nice shade of bluish purple black at 1000° +.

Needless to say, changes were made.

Even though this was a different type of closed circuit fail, I've had many solid-state relays, triacs, etc fail 'on'. Usually takes a hard short on the output to do it, but some are super-sensitive.

 

[Ken226]

Still amazed that I didn't fry anything in mine. Like he said in the video, usually at the first key cycle, it's too late.

Oh yeah, all those little solid-state devices love to fail in the 'on' state. At my work, we had a solder machine that used a mechanical contactor as the heater driver, controlled by a PID circuit as well (no clue why). At the 'set' temp, all you'd hear was "thunk, thunk" when it was maintaning temperature.

Until one day about 6 months after we got it when the ouput contactor decided to weld itself closed, and the solder in the pot turned this nice shade of bluish purple black at 1000° +.

Needless to say, changes were made.

Even though this was a different type of closed circuit fail, I've had many solid-state relays, triacs, etc fail 'on'. Usually takes a hard short on the output to do it, but some are super-sensitive.

Two years ago my curing oven did that.

I hadn't been in the shop in about a week, when I opened the door it smelled like a foundry.

The curing oven door was warped and I could see a orange glow coming from inside it.

It uses a SSR controlled by a PID to maintain a set temp, and the SSR was failed. 5500 watts.

MY best guess based on the electric bill was that it had run for about 4 days.

It now also has a 50 amp contactor on the heating element circuit. The on switch now closes that contactor before the PID send power to the heating element.

 

[turkeybird56]

I'd take your "bone cold chill " any day in the winter,at least things still start at 20F and above,they don't start worth a crap at -40F Then after they do start,it takes 5 miles before the tires are round again and quit thumping

Fred Flinstone tires huh, hee hee. You kinda get the opposite here.

 

[EdGs]

Two years ago my curing oven did that.

I hadn't been in the shop in about a week, when I opened the door it smelled like a foundry.

The curing oven door was warped and I could see a orange glow coming from inside it.

It uses a SSR controlled by a PID to maintain a set temp, and the SSR was failed. 5500 watts.

MY best guess based on the electric bill was that it had run for about 4 days.

It now also has a 50 amp contactor on the heating element. The on switch now closes the contactor before the PID can boot up.

Yep, bet your electric company loved you. Our pot was 3000 watts and cooking. But, it didn't go for days like yours did. That, is scary.

You've probably already done this, but wire that contactor coil through the alarm relay of the controller, and if it's a single N.O. contact, set it to operate in reverse and set the alarm to 25°, etc. over setpoint.

That way it will close and allow the SSR to control the output, and if the SSR fails on, it will disconnect the contactor if it hits the alarm temp and reset when in range.

You may also be able to latch the alarm relay if you want, to avoid constantly cycling when overtemp trips.

 

[Ken226]

Yep, bet your electric company loved you. Our pot was 3000 watts and cooking. But, it didn't go for days like yours did. That, is scary.

You've probably already done this, but wire that contactor coil through the alarm relay of the controller, and if it's a single N.O. contact, set it to operate in reverse and set the alarm to 25°, etc. over setpoint.

That way it will close and allow the SSR to control the output, and if the SSR fails on, it will disconnect the contactor if it hits the alarm temp and reset when in range.

You may also be able to latch the alarm relay if you want, to avoid constantly cycling when overtemp trips.

It's already set up something like that, but a little different. The PID controller has an alarm relay on it's timer, but not one for temp.

The pid controller has an alarm output, but it is controlled by the built-in timer rather than by a temp. Everything that goes in that oven, goes in for a specified time, usually 2.5 hours.

The contactor is wired to the alarm relay, so when the time is up, the contactor opens and the 2nd most annoying alarm sound in the world is broadcast. 2nd only to the door open chime in 2015+ Ford F150s.

I guess, technically, the way it is wired now, the SSR could still fail and cause an overheat condition. But, it could only do it while the oven is switched-on, so some knows that it is running, and only for a max of 2.5 hours.

Whereas when the SSR **** the bed 2 years ago, it somehow did so when it was off and noone knew it was running. And it stayed on for several days.

 

[EdGs]

Now, the fail from an off state to dead short with no input is very scary. I don't believe I've ever heard of that happening. There must've been a huge power surge to break over that junction from the 'off' state. Wow.

 

[Ken226]

Now, the fail from an off state to dead short with no input is very scary. I don't believe I've ever heard of that happening. There must've been a huge power surge to break over that junction from the 'off' state. Wow.

My best guess based on probabilities and common modes of failure is that it failed while in use, and just wasn't noticed.

Whether it was me or someone else, my guess is that the part was removed, the switch clicked off and headed out the door with not thought to the possibility that a solid state relay had failed.

At the same time I wired in the contactor, i replaced the 30 amp SSR with one rated for 60 amps, and mounted it to a fan/heatsink combo. That seems like it would help lower the risk. It's been 2 years since, without a hiccup.

 

[EdGs]

My best guess based on probabilities and common modes of failure is that it failed while in use, and just wasn't noticed.

Whether it was me or someone else, my guess is that the part was removed, the switch clicked off and headed out the door with not thought to the possibility that a solid state relay had failed.

At the same time I wired in the contactor, i replaced the 30 amp SSR with one rated for 60 amps, and mounted it to a fan/heatsink combo. That seems like it would help lower the risk. It's been 2 years since, without a hiccup.

I did similar at my work. We had SSR's that were rated close to the load current, and when the heaters (mineral insulated band heaters, like for a plastic extruder) would fail (usually short-to-case), they would take the SSR with it. I went from 25A SSR's to 50A ones, and had way less relay failures (knock on wood.....lol).

 

[EdGs]

Update:

Well, sort of.

Some of you might recall that after my cam and lifter job, I could not get my back windows nor my center rear window to work.

I haven't really had a lot of time to dig into it, and it hasn't been a huge problem, so I pretty much have been just dealing with it.

Fast forward to yesterday. My nephew gave me a small utility trailer that needs a little bit of TLC work, and he had a set of wireless magnetic tail/turn signal lights. You plug in the transmitter to your trailer connector and away you go. The right hand taillight did not work. So we started checking fuses.

When we open my fuse box, he said, "Oh, you've got a relay laying here." Sure as sh*t. So, I look around and find the K6 RUN/ACC #1 spot where it looks like it goes and I plug it in.

Didn't think anything of it.

Get up this morning to go to work, and as i'm driving down my street, I hear like an air wobble, which happens either if you got a tire out of balance or you put the back windows down while you're going down the road. At least that's the way my truck does.

So instinctively, I hit the rear window up control, and I hear the window close, like, it's down maybe a half an inch.

WTF !!!???!!!

Anyway, my back windows and my rear sliding window now work......NO EFFING WAY!

I had to have unplugged it when I was working on my cam and lifters, but I have no idea why, and I don't remember doing it. I did unplug the fuse for the fuel pump so I could burn out the rest of the fuel before I tore her down.

Anyway, all is good in the world.

Sucks to get old.

P.S. The old girl is running well, and I try to exercise the horses whenever I can.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Update:

Well, sort of.

Some of you might recall that after my cam and lifter job, I could not get my back windows nor my center rear window to work.

I haven't really had a lot of time to dig into it, and it hasn't been a huge problem, so I pretty much have been just dealing with it.

Fast forward to yesterday. My nephew gave me a small utility trailer that needs a little bit of TLC work, and he had a set of wireless magnetic tail/turn signal lights. You plug in the transmitter to your trailer connector and away you go. The right hand taillight did not work. So we started checking fuses.

When we open my fuse box, he said, "Oh, you've got a relay laying here." Sure as sh*t. So, I look around and find the K6 RUN/ACC #1 spot where it looks like it goes and I plug it in.

Didn't think anything of it.

Get up this morning to go to work, and as i'm driving down my street, I hear like an air wobble, which happens either if you got a tire out of balance or you put the back windows down while you're going down the road. At least that's the way my truck does.

So instinctively, I hit the rear window up control, and I hear the window close, like, it's down maybe a half an inch.

WTF !!!???!!!

Anyway, my back windows and my rear sliding window now work......NO EFFING WAY!

I had to have unplugged it when I was working on my cam and lifters, but I have no idea why, and I don't remember doing it. I did unplug the fuse for the fuel pump so I could burn out the rest of the fuel before I tore her down.

Anyway all is good in the world.

Sucks to get old.

P.S. The old girl is running well, and I try to exercise the horses whenever I can.

Welcome to older age! Where CRS is a thing!