Driveline suspension issue

[Clebreton]

Not sure if I’m posting in the right spot will give the most details that I can

I have a 2010 dodge ram 1500 5.7 hemi
280,000km just bought it a few days ago for cheap

After driving it for a full day it has started to show a nasty shake/vibration or more like wheel hop from the back

It only does it when I am stopped at a red light, when the light goes green and I take my food off the gas and give it a light amount off gas it feels like the tires aren’t getting traction. If I give it to much gas the tires bounce and the entire truck shakes violently. It does it in 4x4 as well
I have replace the tires 2x and had them balanced to make sure it wasn’t that

I have done to 3 shops to get a diagnostics

First one said it was the differential needed a fluid change so I did that myself (with proper fluid) and said that the differential is shot

Second shop said it’s the drive shaft but the first shop said drive shaft is fine

third shop said rear drivers side calliper is sticking causing it to wheel hop until the piston releases. They also checked all my suspension that the other shops didn’t
Rear control arm bushings are shot and track bar bushing are shot, say bar bushings front and back are shot drivers side cv axle needs to be replace and front tire rod ends both sides

Would a sticking calliper cause wheel hop is my main question. I ordered all the suspension parts but have not gone ahead with the callipers in the rear yet

 

[Atcer2018]

Not sure if I’m posting in the right spot will give the most details that I can

I have a 2010 dodge ram 1500 5.7 hemi
280,000km just bought it a few days ago for cheap

After driving it for a full day it has started to show a nasty shake/vibration or more like wheel hop from the back

It only does it when I am stopped at a red light, when the light goes green and I take my food off the gas and give it a light amount off gas it feels like the tires aren’t getting traction. If I give it to much gas the tires bounce and the entire truck shakes violently. It does it in 4x4 as well
I have replace the tires 2x and had them balanced to make sure it wasn’t that

I have done to 3 shops to get a diagnostics

First one said it was the differential needed a fluid change so I did that myself (with proper fluid) and said that the differential is shot

Second shop said it’s the drive shaft but the first shop said drive shaft is fine

third shop said rear drivers side calliper is sticking causing it to wheel hop until the piston releases. They also checked all my suspension that the other shops didn’t
Rear control arm bushings are shot and track bar bushing are shot, say bar bushings front and back are shot drivers side cv axle needs to be replace and front tire rod ends both sides

Would a sticking calliper cause wheel hop is my main question. I ordered all the suspension parts but have not gone ahead with the callipers in the rear yet

Can’t say for sure if it’s the sticky caliper but if the caliper is sticking it will need to be rebuilt or replaced anyway. A badly sticking caliper can cause a vibration in a car, no experience with a truck but it sounds reasonable.

 

[mdc1990zr1]

Not sure if I’m posting in the right spot will give the most details that I can

I have a 2010 dodge ram 1500 5.7 hemi
280,000km just bought it a few days ago for cheap

After driving it for a full day it has started to show a nasty shake/vibration or more like wheel hop from the back

It only does it when I am stopped at a red light, when the light goes green and I take my food off the gas and give it a light amount off gas it feels like the tires aren’t getting traction. If I give it to much gas the tires bounce and the entire truck shakes violently. It does it in 4x4 as well
I have replace the tires 2x and had them balanced to make sure it wasn’t that

I have done to 3 shops to get a diagnostics

First one said it was the differential needed a fluid change so I did that myself (with proper fluid) and said that the differential is shot

Second shop said it’s the drive shaft but the first shop said drive shaft is fine

third shop said rear drivers side calliper is sticking causing it to wheel hop until the piston releases. They also checked all my suspension that the other shops didn’t
Rear control arm bushings are shot and track bar bushing are shot, say bar bushings front and back are shot drivers side cv axle needs to be replace and front tire rod ends both sides

Would a sticking calliper cause wheel hop is my main question. I ordered all the suspension parts but have not gone ahead with the callipers in the rear yet

I had drum brakes do that to me on a previous Chevy. Wheel would momentarily lock up and skip. Check your parking brake shoes. They are known to separate from the backing plate. This will cause your symptoms

 

[crash68]

If I give it to much gas the tires bounce and the entire truck shakes violently.

Try turning the Traction Control off.
Also check if the truck has Hill Start Assist, turn that off too(your truck may not have this option as I think it may be for '13 and newer trucks).

 

[Clebreton]

Try turning the Traction Control off.
Also check if the truck has Hill Start Assist, turn that off too(your truck may not have this option as I think it may be for '13 and newer trucks).

Still does it in traction control and I don’t have the hill start assist

Another think it doesn’t doing it if I’m rolling so only after applying brakes at a complete stop

 

[Clebreton]

I had drum brakes do that to me on a previous Chevy. Wheel would momentarily lock up and skip. Check your parking brake shoes. They are known to separate from the backing plate. This will cause your symptoms

That could be it my park break cable is hanging down

 

[Clebreton]

So got the truck up on stands. Don’t think it’s the callipers or park break. Tires move freely

I imitated the the symptoms
Seams like it’s coming from
Drive shaft, transfer case or transmission

 

[Wild one]

So got the truck up on stands. Don’t think it’s the callipers or park break. Tires move freely

I imitated the the symptoms
Seams like it’s coming from
Drive shaft, transfer case or transmission

Being an Edmonton truck with close to 300,000 clics on it,i wouldn't be surprised if it needed u-joints in the rear driveshaft or front cv axles

 

[DILLIGAF]

Pull you rear driveshaft and go for a drive in 4wd

Pull your front driveshafts and go for a drive.

Pull the front diff / CVs / driveshaft out and go for a drive

 

[Clebreton]

Being an Edmonton truck with close to 300,000 clics on it,i wouldn't be surprised if it needed u-joints in the rear driveshaft or front cv axles

Right?! I just picked up U-joints for it and the cv axles are in good shape I believe they were done with the lower control arms
Upper on other had there is some play in the bushings.

 

[Clebreton]

Pull you rear driveshaft and go for a drive in 4wd

Pull your front driveshafts and go for a drive.

Pull the front diff / CVs / driveshaft out and go for a drive

This will help determine where it’s coming from?

 

[Clebreton]

Ok so finally got my code reader to work with my truck ‍

I’m getting some transmission fault codes
P0731 Gear 1 Incorrect Ratio
P0732 Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio

Maybe shift solenoid or dirty filter/ tans fluid ?

Could this be causing the wheel hop

Notice that when I’m at a light it feels like drag then the tires feel like they are hopping. If kind of pump the gas it will stop but doesn’t all the time

 

[Clebreton]

Pull you rear driveshaft and go for a drive in 4wd

Pull your front driveshafts and go for a drive.

Pull the front diff / CVs / driveshaft out and go for a drive

Got around to getting the rear drive shaft on took it for a drive in 4x4 still did it

Took the front drive shaft off and it started to rain before I could get the could get at the cvs
I did notice there is a decent amount of play in the transfer case support bushings

 

[Clebreton]

Pull you rear driveshaft and go for a drive in 4wd

Pull your front driveshafts and go for a drive.

Pull the front diff / CVs / driveshaft out and go for a drive

Ok so I did all this on top I replaced
Upper control/ ball joints arms both sides
Lower ball joints both side and tie rods sway bar bushing and links

It still does it. Could this be the transmission? Transmission mounts?
I am lost on what it is

 

[Uncle Damo]

I had something similar and diagnosed with a GoPro. See this thread and video.

Thread '8HP70 Trans shudder, getting worse, no codes, how to diagnose ?' https://www.ramforum.com/threads/8hp70-trans-shudder-getting-worse-no-codes-how-to-diagnose.173007/

 

[Clebreton]

I had something similar and diagnosed with a GoPro. See this thread and video.

Thread '8HP70 Trans shudder, getting worse, no codes, how to diagnose ?' https://www.ramforum.com/threads/8hp70-trans-shudder-getting-worse-no-codes-how-to-diagnose.173007/

im now starting to think it’s my engine mounts ‍ they are completely shot and would make sense to when the slightest amount of loud it does this

 

[Ralph Mauro]

Right?! I just picked up U-joints for it and the cv axles are in good shape I believe they were done with the lower control arms
Upper on other had there is some play in the bushings.

M

 

[Ralph Mauro]

If it shakes that bad and the problem is in the rear brakes one of the rear wheels should be hotter than a firecracker after a drive. Assuming it has to do with parking shoes or calipers hanging up

 

[Clebreton]

If it shakes that bad and the problem is in the rear brakes one of the rear wheels should be hotter than a firecracker after a drive. Assuming it has to do with parking shoes or calipers hanging up

Replace rear parking shoes and calipers rotors and pads today bled the breaks and still does it.

 

[Marshall]

After you do motor mounts, have you tried stopping (if it works) with just the park brake and not the reg. brakes, would cut out using the calibers, What about when you back up, Any different?
Sounds like brake lock up to me.
If you have it up on jack stands, and it's safe, run the rear axel and hit the brakes, then turn off the truck and see if you can turn the wheel or not by hand. You could also check parking brake the same way to see if they release or bind up
Would work way better on a lift, you could watch all the wheels and drive shaft.

I had a 2010 , great truck , till a chev idiot in Saskatoon run into me and insurance wrote it off.