Economical Upgrade to Stock 6 Speaker System: 2018 Big Horn UConnect 8.4

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PowrRam

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I lease vehicles so I don't go gonzo on modding the sound system.

My previous truck was a 2015 Big Horn with the Alpine 9 speaker system with subwoofer. I replaced the corner dash tweeters with Polk's DB351's and disconnected the center dash speaker. That was an easy and noticeable difference in sound quality. My typical settings for the UConnect equalizer was:
Bass: +2
Midrange: flat
Treble: +1

My new 2018 Big Horn has the stock 6 speaker system with the 8.4 UConnect. Wow, what a step down in sound quality. Not that the Alpine was the greatest sounding system, but the difference is noticeable between the Alpine 9 speaker and the stock 6 speaker system. I found by playing songs from my USB stick whose sound quality was well-remembered by me, I could compare to the stock system. Sadly, the bass response is woeful in the stock 6 speaker system. I don't need bass to rattle my windows and knock out my fillings but I do want to feel it and know that it is there.

Here's my equalizer settings for the stock system:
Bass: +8 (only goes up to 8)
Midrange: +1
Treble: +3

With Bass set at max, it sounds a bit muffled and distorted. I had to mentally search for the bass notes that were easily heard with the Alpine in my old truck. I started shopping for subwoofers. I've settled on either the Kicker Hideaway or the Cerwin Vega VPAS10. These are self-contained powered subwoofer boxes that fit under the seat or behind the back seat. Perfect for a leased vehicle because they are (relatively) inexpensive and I can easily remove it and transfer it to another vehicle.

First thing I did was put the Polk's from my previous truck in the dash of my new truck. Instant improvement in clarity and high end response. I'm still missing the bass, though. Equalizer settings now:
Bass: +8
Midrange: +1
Treble: +1

I decided to replace the front door 6X9 speakers with something else. The problem here is the depth of most aftermarket 6X9 speakers are too deep to mount in the front doors. The alternative is a 6 1/2". After much searching I found a set of Pioneer 6X9's that would drop right into the front doors without any modifications. They were highly reviewed on Amazon and amazingly inexpensive. I figured if I didn't like them I could put them in the rear doors and get 6 1/2" for the fronts.

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TSA6...=1529421912&sr=1-1&keywords=pioneer+TS-A6966R

Yes, Amazon and Crutchfield will tell you this speaker does not fit the Ram 1500, but trust me, they drop right into place, easy-peasy. (You do need Metra wiring adapters 72-6514)

Here's a pic of the Pioneer and the stock speaker. I should have taken a shot showing the height of each speaker. The Pioneer is about 3/8" taller than the stock one:

Speakers-Front-Door-6X9.jpg

Here's the Pioneer speaker being weighed. BTW, the stock speaker weighed 17.6 ounces. The majority of the weight difference is in the magnet.

Speakers-Front-Door-6X9-Pio.jpg

Once installed I started playing with the balance and fader controls. I've got to tell you, those rear door 6X9 speakers are terrible. Sounds like they are submerged in vegetable oil inside a plastic container. Muddy, indistinct, muffled. Yuck!

The Pioneers really livened up the sound of the system and brought clarity. They also brought some bass. Tight, good sounding bass. On some songs it's almost good enough to not want a subwoofer. Almost. Here's my settings on the equalizer now:
Bass: +6, (sometimes +7)
Midrange: Flat
Treble: -1 (sometimes -2)

On a scale of 1 to 10, I'd say the stock system was a 4. I'd say the changes I made brought it up to a 7. Really, the stock system should sound like mine from the factory without needing to change out speakers. It's not that expensive. I bought the Polk's three years ago for $45. I got the Pioneers a week ago for $38. So, $83 bucks and about an hour and a half of work (hey, I'm slow). If anyone is hesitant to take off your front door panels and replace the speakers, it's really easy. The only tricky part is getting the plastic screws out because they are somewhat delicate and require a torx driver. Here's an excellent video that I referenced:



Even though I gained a lot of clean bass with the Pioneers, I think I'm going to get the powered subwoofer.
 
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MajMike

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if you like the Pioneers so much I would do them in the back too, although a 2 way would be plenty. I'm going to go with 6.5's myself, swapping over for the rear, looking for moderate $ components for the front and dash. Have sub and amp looking for box to fit.
 

droopie85gt

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So, by your comments, I guess these would fit in the back too? DO you think these would be overkill and just get a 2 way for the back doors. I too am looking to get a powered sub because I have the same feelings on my new 2017 with the same 8.4 Uconnect. I had a Rockville 8" in my Avalanche and it was perfect. I think I'll order another one, 2 sets of these 6x9's and install them while my wife is out of town in a few weeks, so I don't have to listen to her ask why I am taking my brand new truck apart!!!
 
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PowrRam

PowrRam

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So, by your comments, I guess these would fit in the back too?

Yes, these would easily fit in the back. In fact, there is more depth space in the rear doors.

DO you think these would be overkill and just get a 2 way for the back doors.

At $38 a pair I don't think they would be "overkill". According to the spec sheet the frequency response goes down to 28 Hz but it rolls off sharply at 60 Hz. Still, 60 Hz is really good for a car speaker.

I too am looking to get a powered sub because I have the same feelings on my new 2017 with the same 8.4 Uconnect. I had a Rockville 8" in my Avalanche and it was perfect.

You had the Rockville 8" powered sub? That one was on my watch list too.

Rockville USS8 8" 600w Slim Under-Seat Active Powered Car/Truck Subwoofer Sub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTGYZFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oqXkBb9VD3DDB


I think I'll order another one, 2 sets of these 6x9's and install them while my wife is out of town in a few weeks, so I don't have to listen to her ask why I am taking my brand new truck apart!!!

Sounds like a plan!

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BiGMERF

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I just replace my whole stock 6 speakers with all kickers. 6.5’s in the doors with 3.5 tweets. Also have a kicker 10. Didn’t want 2.
Hooking up an alpine power block to the doors on Friday when my new head unit goes in. Upping my the measly 10-12 watts rms I was getting to 70 rms
Should be a healthy difference in sound


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dearchristopher

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oddly enough i like the 6 speaker bass response. i did dynamat the doors and backwall, though. I am considering grabbing these pioneers if they're decent, that price is great
 

droopie85gt

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Yes, these would easily fit in the back. In fact, there is more depth space in the rear doors.

Rockville 8" powered sub? That one was on my watch list too.

Rockville USS8 8" 600w Slim Under-Seat Active Powered Car/Truck Subwoofer Sub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTGYZFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oqXkBb9VD3DDB


Yeah, I had that exact one. I got the first one for $75 I think so I thought if it sucked, I would just toss it. It was more than enough. Didn't bounce the truck off the ground, but provided a really good bass thump for the size.


I pulled the trigger last night. 2 sets of the Pioneers, a set of the wiring adapters and the Rockville 8" sub. In a couple of weeks, I'll let you know how it turns out. I think I will mount the sub behind the back seat, so I may do the fold down seat mod while I am at it.
 

GIJoe2010

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What is the Metra adapter part number for our trucks for the door speakers?

What is the Metra adapter part number for our trucks for the dash tweeter/speakers?

I found 72-6514 for the doors but have found mixed reviews and info on the dash adapters.
 
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PowrRam

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Yeah, I had that exact one. I got the first one for $75 I think so I thought if it sucked, I would just toss it. It was more than enough. Didn't bounce the truck off the ground, but provided a really good bass thump for the size.


I pulled the trigger last night. 2 sets of the Pioneers, a set of the wiring adapters and the Rockville 8" sub. In a couple of weeks, I'll let you know how it turns out. I think I will mount the sub behind the back seat, so I may do the fold down seat mod while I am at it.

I was considering doing the back seat mod and going behind there with the powered sub, but then I discovered there is room underneath the passenger front seat if the tire jack is removed. I figure I'd put the tire jack in the cubby hole under the rear passenger seat. I made a cardboard box the exact size as the Kicker Hideaway and tried to fit it under the passenger seat. It barely fits. Moving the seat back and forth scratched up the cardboard which got me thinking about the Cerwin Vega VPAS10. It's not as tall of a box, almost 1/2" shorter, and it's a 10" speaker. I see the Rockville is 1/4" shorter than the Kicker. And less expensive, by half.

You were happy with the Rockville?

Please post back with news of your mods.
 
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GIJoe2010

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Thanks a bunch. I've had some speakers (from a member here) sitting in my garage for a hot minute and I think I may have lost the adapters when I was cleaning/rearranging things a few weekends ago.
 
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PowrRam

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Yeah, I had that exact one. I got the first one for $75 I think

Well, I see two of these Rockville units on Amazon. This one seems to be an older model since it has reviews that go back to 2015:

https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RW...019Z3RFGY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8


This one appears to be an updated model since most of the reviews are from 2018:

https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-US...06XTGYZFM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8


Now that you can see both of these side-by-side, which one did you have?
 

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Please keep us updated.


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droopie85gt

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Well, I see two of these Rockville units on Amazon. This one seems to be an older model since it has reviews that go back to 2015:

https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RW...019Z3RFGY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8


This one appears to be an updated model since most of the reviews are from 2018:

https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-US...06XTGYZFM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8


Now that you can see both of these side-by-side, which one did you have?


I had the one in the first link with the smooth grill. Which is the one I ordered again (I had to double check). I had good luck with it...other than the fact that I mounted the remote bass gain knob with one screw on the dash knee bolster next to the brake release. Not really next to it, but that's what my wife said when she drove the Avalanche and broke the gain knob housing off the one screw mount thinking it was the e-brake release.

:emotions122:

About the only complaint I ever had with the Rockville was that the gain knob has a power LED on it. Bright blue and SUPER bright. I put same tape over it. I'll create a thread and document my install. Hopefully around 4th of July.
 
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PowrRam

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I had the one in the first link with the smooth grill. Which is the one I ordered again (I had to double check). I had good luck with it...

So you had the RW8CA. I found the owner's manuals for these two subwoofers. Here's the differences I can see:

RW8CA: size 12.4" X 11" X 2.7"; sensitivity: 100 dB @ 1w; Bass Boost: 0 - 18dB @ 45Hz; Frequency Response: 20Hz - 150Hz; total harmonic distortion: <0.4%

USS8: size 13.0" X 9.9" X 2.9"; sensitivity: 90 dB @ 1w; Bass Boost: 0 - 12dB @ 45Hz; Frequency Response: 15Hz - 125Hz; total harmonic distortion: <0.15%

Based on these specs, it looks like the RW8CA will play a bit louder, have a bit more bass boost, but will have more distortion. The USS8 will maybe get a little lower bass notes and have less distortion.


About the only complaint I ever had with the Rockville was that the gain knob has a power LED on it. Bright blue and SUPER bright. I put same tape over it.

Looks like the new model, the USS8 does not have the obnoxious light on the bass control knob.

Rockville-RW8CA-Bass-knob1.jpg


Rockville-USS8-Bass-Knob1.jpg



I'll create a thread and document my install. Hopefully around 4th of July.

Please do. I'll post back to this thread with my progress. Since my vehicle is a lease, I might have Best Buy's Geek Squad do the install for me. I went into my Best Buy today and they will do it for $99.

I see that you can buy these units direct from Rockville with a full installation kit including wiring for $6 more. I also see it on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RW..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=57E8654HSMRW4VVCF5DE


https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-USS8-Under-Seat-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B06XYYHP7M/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1529623777&sr=1-2-fkmr0&keywords=Rockville+USS8+8"+600w+Slim+Under-Seat+Active+Powered+Car/Truck+Subwoofer+Sub+with+wiring+kit

However, if you're going to hook up the amp using high level inputs by tapping into existing speaker wires (as I am) it appears the only thing you need to buy is heavy gauge power wire (8 gauge), fuse box and fuse (manual says 20 amp), some sort of heavy gauge connector to go to the positive terminal of the battery, a ground wire (again 8 gauge) and a heavy duty connector to go to ground. Either subwoofer already comes with the wires for high level input and the wire for the bass control knob.
 
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droopie85gt

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I plan on finding and tapping into one of the rear speakers for the high levels. I probably will put it rear drivers side since the battery is on drivers side....shorter wiring.
 
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PowrRam

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I plan on finding and tapping into one of the rear speakers for the high levels. I probably will put it rear drivers side since the battery is on drivers side....shorter wiring.
Since my plan is to put the subwoofer under the passenger seat I was planning on tapping into the rear passenger speaker. The power cord would run under the carpet to the driver's side and under the door sill molding through the firewall to the battery.


However, I'm wondering if tapping into only one speaker is enough? The included high level input wiring harness uses four wires--R+, R-, L+, and L-. Also, it's possible when songs are mixed in the studio the bass track varies from right and left channel. This leads me to think both rear speakers should be hooked up.

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Ok, question about replacement components for the front and crossovers. The stock system has crossovers built in for the dash tweeters and front door speakers, right? So do I need to install the crossovers which come with a set of components or can I just install the speakers on the current setup?
 

droopie85gt

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Since my plan is to put the subwoofer under the passenger seat I was planning on tapping into the rear passenger speaker. The power cord would run under the carpet to the driver's side and under the door sill molding through the firewall to the battery.


However, I'm wondering if tapping into only one speaker is enough? The included high level input wiring harness uses four wires--R+, R-, L+, and L-. Also, it's possible when songs are mixed in the studio the bass track varies from right and left channel. This leads me to think both rear speakers should be hooked up.

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I was trying to remember how I hooked up to my Avalanche. It had the bose system with a teeeny sub under the center console. My Ram has more base response right now! I remember I tapped into the sub speaker leads, so I only used one set of high level inputs.

I guess I need to do some research to see if it makes a huge difference whether you use one or two of the high level inputs.
 
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