Exhaust Manifolds | Warped

[MartyZ]

How is everyone removing their driver's side manifolds on 4WDs? Everything is loose and ready to come out, but I cannot figure out how to remove the dipstick tube. Any advice would be appreciated.

Vice Grips will assist. It should just be pressed in the tube with a rubber washer for a seal. It's Probably seized up from grime. Hit it with some lubricant and try to twist it a bit.

 

[racerx909]

Do you just cut the bracket that is bolted into the block? Its not possible to back the bolt out all the way without moving the motor mount.

 

[MartyZ]

Do you just cut the bracket that is bolted into the block? Its not possible to back the bolt out all the way without moving the motor mount.

Can you back it out enough to make the hole in the bracket a notch instead? That way you can slide it off and on with the bolt partially in the hole.
I think I read somewhere that someone used a jack to lift their motor up for more clearance. Is that something that could help you?

 

[EdGs]

I took a small pair of curved jaw vise-grips and LIGHTLY clamped them just above where the dipstick tube enters the block. Tapped them upward, and popped the tube right out. I did have to move the top of the dipstick tube around the A/C lines. Did not have to bend it either.

That was after I screwed around for an hour (or more) trying to pull it by hand. It would spin a bit, but not come out.

Believe me, I dicked around trying to remove the loose manifold for at least an hour, and could not get it oriented, because of the refrigerant lines.

Once I popped the tube out, the manifold came out super easy. Moved it forward, tipped it up at an angle, and she came out through the bottom. Did not have to undo the steering knuckle either.

I have a 2wd, so YMMV

For installation, just tapped the vise-grips downward to seat the tube until the clamp bracket lined up.

 

[EdGs]

Manifold loose, dipstick tube in the way:


Tube out, Yay!!

 

[Hemi395]

I'm going to be removing shorties and going back to manifolds as soon as I get the manifolds/ hardware in, is this some of the fun times I have in store? I had a shop quote me $400 to do the swap, thinking it might be worth it lol

 

[EdGs]

I'm going to be removing shorties and going back to manifolds as soon as I get the manifolds/ hardware in, is this some of the fun times I have in store? I had a shop quote me $400 to do the swap, thinking it might be worth it lol

Now that I've done it once, I feel that I could do it alot quicker if I had to do it again.

I worked on mine all night on a saturday. Finished at 7 am sunday morning. I am not fast, and I also did front and rear brake pads and an oil change, too.

If you trust that shop, sure, why not?

 

[AkNoad2]

I'm going to be removing shorties and going back to manifolds as soon as I get the manifolds/ hardware in, is this some of the fun times I have in store? I had a shop quote me $400 to do the swap, thinking it might be worth it lol

At that price, I’d have them do it that way you don’t have to mess with it and you know that it will be done correctly (not saying you wouldn’t do it correctly) plus it will save you time to do something else while waiting for you truck.

I got the gaskets and my truck goes in the shop on Wednesday, I hope my doesn’t run any more than $400 but we’ll see.


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[DCD5907]

as far as removing the dip stick tube (sorry I didn't take any pics as I was pressed for time) I just completed arh long tube install this past Friday. I removed the 4 motor mount bolts from the mount to the block and the 2 bolts that hold the mount to the Transmission. I jacked up the engine and trans till I got enough clearance to get a ratcheting wrench into the space and removed the bolt. needless to say that tab on the dip stick tube and bolt did not go back in with the new headers. during this I also removed the shifter cable bracket from one of the trans to motor mount bolts as the shifter cable had to be relocated with the header install.

 

[FlyingRAM]

About 2/3's of our company's fleet of 4.8 and 5.3's have had the manifolds resurfaced and the bolts replaced at well under a 100,000 miles.The shop we take them to,jerks the manifolds off and sends them out to be re-surfaced /flattened and they never give any issues after that.

Does the 4.7 V8 have the same manifold problem? I have a light tic on cold starts on a 2012 4.7 liter with 80k.

 

[MartyZ]

Does the 4.7 V8 have the same manifold problem? I have a light tic on cold starts on a 2012 4.7 liter with 80k.

Not sure, my 2010 Durango 4.7 with 88k always made a very light tick on Cold starts. I always associated it to the oil pump but I may have been wrong. I didnt sound like an exhaust leak. Had it for 3 years and nothing catastrophic happened. Sold it with 147k on it.

 

[Wild one]

Does the 4.7 V8 have the same manifold problem? I have a light tic on cold starts on a 2012 4.7 liter with 80k.

I never kept my 4.7 long enough to have any issues with it,so i couldn't tell you.

 

[Daw14]

I had an 04 with 75,000 miles when I got rid of it ,it was still quiet for the most part.

 

[tfeni52355]

Just picked up the truck after having both exhaust manifolds replaced and the broken studs on the passenger side fixed. 74000 miles on truck. Approximate total for job $1200. Great shop that I found close to home to work on my truck. He does all the exhaust manifold work for the shops in the area. I didn't want to take it in again in a few thousand miles for the driver side so I had them do both.

Also had the driveshaft pulled, u joints inspected and splines on the transmission coupling greased heavily to alleviate the "clunking" in start/stop traffic that is annoying. There's a YouTube video on this. Had it in the FCA for this annoying issue three times. Of course FCA said it was normal. Anyway, no clunk/clunk now!

 

[kidmandudebro]

Just picked up the truck after having both exhaust manifolds replaced and the broken studs on the passenger side fixed. 74000 miles on truck. Approximate total for job $1200. Great shop that I found close to home to work on my truck. He does all the exhaust manifold work for the shops in the area. I didn't want to take it in again in a few thousand miles for the driver side so I had them do both.

Also had the driveshaft pulled, u joints inspected and splines on the transmission coupling greased heavily to alleviate the "clunking" in start/stop traffic that is annoying. There's a YouTube video on this. Had it in the FCA for this annoying issue three times. Of course FCA said it was normal. Anyway, no clunk/clunk now!

View attachment 250796

Holy sheep **** that was expensive. I would have had them install headers too.

 

[Hemi395]

I just put new OEM manifolds on my truck about 2 months ago and the parts alone were over $500...

 

[mdc1990zr1]

I bought a pair of used and "seasoned" OEM manifolds of e-bay and had them machined flat. Just picked them up yesterday. The machine shop said that they were high in the middle and that they would have "rocked" on the heads. I have 36k on the truck and will do them soon, hopefully before the bolts break on their own. With all the useful information and supposed success of others on the forum, I will also be putting on the Remflex gaskets. I don't have the time to do my own analysis of this problem, but will lean toward the success of others and duplicate the most successful fix.
The manifolds were probably from someone with broken bolts who put headers on and these became expendable. Had the original owner or I had put these on with new gaskets and bolts, it surely would have failed again.

 

[BlownGP]

Also had the driveshaft pulled, u joints inspected and splines on the transmission coupling greased heavily to alleviate the "clunking" in start/stop traffic that is annoying. There's a YouTube video on this. Had it in the FCA for this annoying issue three times. Of course FCA said it was normal. Anyway, no clunk/clunk now!

So, that's what the issue is?
I've had my driveshaft replaced and it fixed it for a few months and now the bumping, clunking is back

 

[tfeni52355]

So, that's what the issue is?
I've had my driveshaft replaced and it fixed it for a few months and now the bumping, clunking is back

Yup it's back. Short term fix and then clunking again.

 

[tfeni52355]

Holy sheep **** that was expensive. I would have had them install headers too.

Real work in a real shop costs real money. 2 year warranty and one throat to choke. I'm 66 yrs old and the thought of laying on the ground all weekend just doesn't excite me anymore. But to each his own as they say....