Exhaust Manifolds | Warped

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Nick@GotExhaust

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Appreciate it, I work at a dealership so I planned on buying the parts and having service install them. Just was looking at shorty bbks for headers.
JBA's are the cheapest option I would recommend. AFE and kooks are the preferred options for shorties.

Unless of course you want to step up to long tubes then American Racing Headers or Stainless Works are the best options.

Anyone interested in Headers, please feel free to contact me for a quote.
 

Jh0212

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Also joining the warped pass. side manifold club with an '18 5.7 at 80k miles (although, I heard it back in winter... so, lop 10k and at least 7 mos off that).
Given the price that the dealer offered up (granted, the kid who was doing so was hand-writing his math on the sheet, carrying digits (seemingly incorrectly?) etc...),I think I'm looking to go the route of the independent mechanic. I have no idea how badly warped the manifold is, so I'm unsure if the planing method is applicable (yes, blaspheme me for not catching sooner). I priced everything out from one of the mopar sites based on the parts list he was doing said math on, so figured I'd ask for any non-dealer referrals, south of Chicago (try planing, first, then coin toss between new replacement (1 side), or just go with shortys and be done with it?).
Thanks!
 

EdGs

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If you are staying stock, machining the stock manifold flat is the way to go, you should have no trouble after that because the manifold has been heat cycled.

Passenger side is the easier to repair also.

Do you know how many studs are broken, and if they are broken under the head of the stud or flush with the cylinder head?
 
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Burn2k12Ram

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Also joining the warped pass. side manifold club with an '18 5.7 at 80k miles (although, I heard it back in winter... so, lop 10k and at least 7 mos off that).
Given the price that the dealer offered up (granted, the kid who was doing so was hand-writing his math on the sheet, carrying digits (seemingly incorrectly?) etc...),I think I'm looking to go the route of the independent mechanic. I have no idea how badly warped the manifold is, so I'm unsure if the planing method is applicable (yes, blaspheme me for not catching sooner). I priced everything out from one of the mopar sites based on the parts list he was doing said math on, so figured I'd ask for any non-dealer referrals, south of Chicago (try planing, first, then coin toss between new replacement (1 side), or just go with shortys and be done with it?).
Thanks!
Obviously varies but should not be more than $400 for install granted you provide the headers(both). Get a price up front if possible in case those broken bolts turn out to be more of a PITA to get out than normal lol. You can actually do yourself many write-ups on doing such. If this happens to me I will opt for shorties instead of fixing the stock manifolds/bolts. That is just me though.
 
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El_Dude

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$1,076.06
Have the receipt in my email. I bought them from Unique Auto Depot.
Part# 35101110

I ordered them on 1/20/2021 but didn’t install till that spring or summer.
 

PT-4

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You might want to do some research on the BBK shorties,they don't have a great rep on the trucks,JBA's are generally considered to be better then the BBK's,as the BBK's are famous for cracking at the welds
Do you have a part number for the JBA headers that fit the 5.7 Hemi?
 

PT-4

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If you elect to go the milled manifold route, is the heat shield a separate part that needs to be ordered? Mine is broken.
 

Wild one

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If you elect to go the milled manifold route, is the heat shield a separate part that needs to be ordered? Mine is broken.
It's a seperate part.Sometimes you can get away with using a bigger washer if it's just the bolt holes broke out.I think alot of guys even run with-out the shields,if they're broke ,the majority of headers don't reuse the shields.

 

El_Dude

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I tried to put the shield on my Kooks but there was hardly any room to work so left them off. It was a pain in the butt, regarldesss. Also, the dipstick tube is a pain in the ass. I have bend mine also to route ok without touching the header.
 

MartyZ

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The shorties pose different clearance issues than the Long Tubes. The are wider so the dipstick ends up in the way. The long tubes also come close to the dipstick but didn't require any bending. I had to remove it to install the headers but it went back on ok. I did not re-use my shield either. Look into Remflex Gaskets regardless of what route you go. Best gaskets out there.
 

Highway

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I had 2 bolts broke on each side and went back with JBA shorties and as stated above i used remflex gaskets. For the bolts i welded a flat washer to the broken stud (broke flush)and the welded a nut to the washer and they came right out.
 

MartyZ

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I had 2 bolts broke on each side and went back with JBA shorties and as stated above i used remflex gaskets. For the bolts i welded a flat washer to the broken stud (broke flush)and the welded a nut to the washer and they came right out.
I used the exact same extraction method. Super easy and almost no risk if you mess up the weld.
2 of my welds failed and twisted off the broken stud when I tried to remove them, I increased the weld temperature a tad and tried again with a new washer and nut. Stuck perfect and came out with ease.

(What I'm trying to say is if you are on the fence, don't be afraid of the welding solution for removal, even with no experience and a lot of anxiety I was able to do mine with no issues.)

Fact 1: The heat from the weld assists in the removal too, the same way you torch a stuck nut / bolt.

Fact 2: If you disconnect your negative cable from your battery, and ensure your welder ground clamp is on the same surface of metal you are about to perform a weld on, you are safe to weld and wont risk frying your electrical system.

Fact 3: Welding a washer / nut / both to the broken stud will NOT weld the stud into the block.
The block is aluminum, weld will not stick to aluminum unless you are using aluminum welding equipment (TIG, etc.)

Fact 4: Missing where you are aiming and welding in an undesired location will not necessarily result in any damage, If you take your time and are patient with it you will not have as many issues as you thought before doing it.

And Fact 5: ramforum is here to help. With everyone else who has run into these problems or done research on the same topic, you can get out of almost any issue on your own.

With a Ram Family like this, who needs mechanics?
 

PT-4

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Will Remflex gaskets work with machined OEM exhaust manifolds? Or are OEM gaskets recommended?
 

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