Gear installation

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Jtouch81

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So I am currently trying my hand at swapping my 3.55 gears out to 4.10 gears. I’m currently putting everything back together and trying to get the gear pattern and pinion gear correct.

My current pattern is the drive side is on the heel and my coast side is on the toe. I’ve taken out shims and added shims with no luck. I’ve used the old factory shim as well as added all the shims that came in the install kit and am still on the heel and toe. Not sure if I should purchase extra shims or am I doing something wrong?


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stevenP

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Wow, I used wrench on a lot of things. Taking apart transmissions and rear diff was my limit. If you set up a rear end wrong, it will self destruct. I paid some guy who did it for a living to set up mine when I switched years ago on my race car. Cost me like $100, for his labor and he had all the shims etc. for the job already.
 

Fast69Mopar

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So I am currently trying my hand at swapping my 3.55 gears out to 4.10 gears. I’m currently putting everything back together and trying to get the gear pattern and pinion gear correct.

My current pattern is the drive side is on the heel and my coast side is on the toe. I’ve taken out shims and added shims with no luck. I’ve used the old factory shim as well as added all the shims that came in the install kit and am still on the heel and toe. Not sure if I should purchase extra shims or am I doing something wrong?


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Do you have any pics of your gear pattern? If you can post some pics I can help guide you.
 

Pull Ya

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You have bit'n off a lot to chew--IMHO
Jay
 
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Jtouch81

Jtouch81

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So I do have all the tools to do the installation as well as a press, dial indicator, everything that is needed except a pinion depth indicator which that’s not something you have to have.

Above you can see my drive side is on the heel and the coast is on the toe. That is with backlash set at 7 and I currently am using setup bearings as well as the old crush sleeve and old pinion nut. Currently that is with the factory shim.


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superjoe83

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Try to go deeper with the pinion, that will move the drive side toward the toe and the coast will move towards the heel
 
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Jtouch81

Jtouch81

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I did have a .018 shim in with the original factory shim and it seemed to move it toward the heel a little more.. thank you for the quick reply!


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superjoe83

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Also, when checking the pattern, put a load on the pinion flange, and rotate the ring gear with a wrench on a ring gear bolt to get some leverage. When I used to set up my toyota third members I found I got a clearer pattern in the grease with it loaded some, I just used a rag to grab the pinion flange while I rotated the ring gear.
 
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Jtouch81

Jtouch81

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Yeah it was very tough to get a clear pattern.. I read if you add a little bit of gear oil to the paint it will help as well but I haven't tried that yet. Going to add 2 - .050 shims tonight to see if it moves it any.
 
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Jtouch81

Jtouch81

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This is with .050 and .054 added... looks worse with extra shims
bb283a47def1f2842d50aee1735ba640.jpg646961bd2fede9a13e0ec72e79513662.jpg


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rvance

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Wow, I used wrench on a lot of things. Taking apart transmissions and rear diff was my limit. If you set up a rear end wrong, it will self destruct. I paid some guy who did it for a living to set up mine when I switched years ago on my race car. Cost me like $100, for his labor and he had all the shims etc. for the job already.

I have rebuilt a couple of auto trans in my Roadrunner, but the gears are something I paid a professional to do. Almost impossible for a home mechanic to get them right.
Note that I rebuilt every other part of a car at one time or another, from complete engines to AC systems. But NOT gears.
 

DarthMegaHD

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Following because I want to find out what oil and how many quarts you end up using
 
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Jtouch81

Jtouch81

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Following because I want to find out what oil and how many quarts you end up using

221e00991861cdf19e65fca9c32ff2d5.jpg

Purchased 6 of those since I’ll be draining it out after the first 500 miles.. I’ll keep you updated once I get to that point



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DarthMegaHD

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So what's the science behind going with the 75w140 over the recommended 75w90?
 
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