Gearing Change

[Jimmy Wilkinson]

I am going to be towing a 10k trailer from MD to TX late next year with a 2016 RAM 1500, 3" lift and 35" tires. I am thinking about changing the gear ratio to either 4.11 or 4.56, currently 3.92. Thoughts? Thank you!

 

[jr27236]

you won't get anything really from 4.11s so I'd go right to 4.56 but you'd need to change the front diff also if it's 4wd

 

[jr27236]

If your just towing this trailer one time though save the money and just pull it

 

[White six four]

Unless you're looking for a reason to regear your truck I'd just buy a set of oem sized tires. Make the trip and sell them.

 

[DILLIGAF]

If your just towing this trailer one time though save the money and just pull it

This x 100

Spend that money on a custom tune instead That has way better benefits.

 

[Dean2]

Re-Gearing is a total waste of time and money. Outside of first starting out, you get nothing from the lower gears; it isn't like the old days with 3 speed transmissions. Turn on tow haul, and use your gear limiter switch to run higher rpm when needed, exactly the same effect.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Re-Gearing is a total waste of time and money.

Yeah ok... lol... Says the guy that runs a winch outside his bumper... lol...

 

[Dean2]

Yeah ok... lol... Says the guy that runs a winch outside his bumper... lol...

I should have been clearer, in the use case he was proposing I think it is a waste of money. IF I was building a rock crawler or heavy duty off road rig with very large tires, then re-gearing might make perfect sense. I know you use your pickup REALLY hard, I don't. Mine is a gravel road and dirt trail machine, for the really bad country, I switch to a quad or a Jeep.

 

[crash68]

(looks around, the payload police must be hiding around here somewhere).

A 10K lbs trailer behind a stock 1500 is a stretch in itself let alone jacked up with oversized tires. A gear change is the least of your concerns.
As mentioned the stock 265/70/17 will be a major step in the right direction. A WDH rated for the load, probably rear air bags and multiple trips across a CAT scale to get the load distribution correct will make the pull about as safe as it will get. If there's an aftermarket exhaust consider either earplugs or a factory muffler for the trip also because that Hemi is going to be singing the high rpm notes.

 

[Dean2]

 

[Jimmy Wilkinson]

Thank ya'll for all the feedback. I think I will just get the OEM sized tires and do the haul. I will probably be making the trip down and back twice as I am getting ready to retire and leave MD for home, (TX). All the best to you guys in the new year!

Jimmy

 

[tron67j]

The "payload police", which really are just persons who want to help members learn what the numbers mean, provide an invaluable alternative thought process to those that say "go for it". There is evidence that 2500s are sometimes limited with some numbers due to federal regulations, but it is what it is. However, 1500s are not in the same boat and are not designed to operate like a HD.

OP could be running up and down the mountains of 70, overloaded by hundreds in payload and thousands in GCWR. Not an advisable trip with that truck. At best whole system is under designed for travel on flat surfaces, this will be scary. Truck will labor to get up those mountains and mechanical issues should be expected. And downhill with more weight pushing behind a lighter truck, just not fun.

Or starting out with travel on 81 where trucks seem to outnumber cars and fly like the wind.
The better option is either downgrade the trailer or upgrade the truck. There are few knowns in this story, many assumptions and a couple trips to TX at 2500 miles, give or take a few hundred, is a great reason to get the right tool for the job.

 

[Dean2]

The "payload police", which really are just persons who want to help members learn what the numbers mean, provide an invaluable alternative thought process to those that say "go for it". There is evidence that 2500s are sometimes limited with some numbers due to federal regulations, but it is what it is. However, 1500s are not in the same boat and are not designed to operate like a HD.

OP could be running up and down the mountains of 70, overloaded by hundreds in payload and thousands in GCWR. Not an advisable trip with that truck. At best whole system is under designed for travel on flat surfaces, this will be scary. Truck will labor to get up those mountains and mechanical issues should be expected. And downhill with more weight pushing behind a lighter truck, just not fun.

Or starting out with travel on 81 where trucks seem to outnumber cars and fly like the wind.
The better option is either downgrade the trailer or upgrade the truck. There are few knowns in this story, many assumptions and a couple trips to TX at 2500 miles, give or take a few hundred, is a great reason to get the right tool for the job.

At least take a look through the haul numbers. The OP IS NOT proposing to do anythjng that is not within his trucks publised capabilites let alone your characterization of what he is proposing to do.

Happy New Years everyone.

 

[tron67j]

At least take a look through the haul numbers. The OP IS NOT proposing to do anythjng that is not within his trucks publised capabilites let alone your characterization of what he is proposing to do.

Happy New Years everyone.

As I said, a lot of assumptions here and almost no data. The chart is of dubious value since we don't know what OP has added to the truck beyond tire and lift and we don't know what options were on the truck which might subtract from the chart max.

I see the haul number but without a CAT receipt of OP's fully loaded trailer and fully loaded truck ready to tow and the VIN towing data and door jamb data, my best analysis is that the stated trailer weight of 10k is within a few tens of the best-case scenario chart value and that is not allowing any wiggle room for all the unknowns. And a generalization that is more often true than not, 1500s will run out of payload capacity long before they run out of trailer towing maximum weight.

So, yes, if we just use the chart, OP is proposing to utilize the truck beyond the chart's capacities (capabilities as you stated) because in the chart the maximum PC for any 5.7 3.92 is approximately 1,700 pounds. 15% average tongue weight of 1,500 pounds leaves 200 pounds for OP, any family members including 4 legged ones, hitch, gear in truck and bed, and any options already added like steps, bed cover, etc.

 

[GTyankee]

Tire height change can also be the same as a gear ratio change, just not as radical.

I don't see any real mountainous roads by traveling the 81, 40, 30, 20

 

[tron67j]

If OP is west of Hagerstown or wants to stay away from the crazy of 81 (it often has wrecks that close the highway) 70 is the preferred starting route. But doesn't matter really, OP is most likely at least at max but probably over recommended weights. That is a long trip back and forth at least twice running that way. Ultimately, their decision but it is important to consider all that goes into their specific trip and which we don't have any idea about. From the very little posted, math is not working out.

 

[pacofortacos]

I 70 has a couple of decent size hills to go over and has to deal with the PA turnpike for a bit, but once into Ohio it would be clear sailing as far as hills.
He doesn't have to fill the trailer to max weight of course.

I would go with stock 20's vs. the 17's if given a choice - but he doesn't state which size is on there now.

I would definitely weigh it though, some of the overweight fines can get expensive.

 

[crash68]

I would go with stock 20's vs. the 17's if given a choice - but he doesn't state which size is on there now.

First post, he has 35" tires. As for the factory tire size the 20s are 4.5% larger, since he's downsizing for towing purposes why give that up. An inexpensive set of factory 17" rims w/tires could be swapped on for the trip and then return to custom rims w/35s for daily driving.

 

[pacofortacos]

First post, he has 35" tires. As for the factory tire size the 20s are 4.5% larger, since he's downsizing for towing purposes why give that up. An inexpensive set of factory 17" rims w/tires could be swapped on for the trip and then return to custom rims w/35s for daily driving.

Are 17's any cheaper than 20's, I haven't noticed a big difference here but it could be a regional thing.

275/55/20 is the same diameter as the 265/70/17 - the 275/55/20 is a stock size in newer models - and they will handle much nicer on the road than the 17's.

I guess it would depend on what's available to him though.

 

[crash68]

Are 17's any cheaper than 20's, I haven't noticed a big difference here but it could be a regional thing.

275/55/20 is the same diameter as the 265/70/17 - the 275/55/20 is a stock size in newer models - and they will handle much nicer on the road than the 17's.

Don't alter the statement parameters after the fact, you didn't specify an alternative size. The factory Gen4 tire sizes were mentioned and most likely what the OP would assume you were talking about.
In general the lower the profile of a tire the more they cost, the smaller rims are more probably abundant at salvage yards.
The OP is towing a trailer, not headed to the track. With lower profile tires things like potholes, and debris in the road become a hazard for rim damage even more so when loaded heavy.