H13 connector replacement

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cableguy_hd

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Swapping out bulbs and or headlight assemblies over the years I've managed to break the locking tabs on both sides of the headlight connectors. Will a generic for an auto store work? Also found some butt splices with the solder inside. They any good? I have them taped together but the LB on pass side is out. Drivers side the HB goes out. Need to repair soon. Thanks
 

south7west

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Yeah just grab a new connector from your local auto store. Easy fix, cut the old connector and splice in the new one using butt connectors with built in head shrink. Should be a simple 15 minute job ;)
 

HM_SanDiego

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You can order the factory connectors for about $10.00 each, shipped - I ordered a connector for the same reason (broken lock tab) - just need to figure out de-pinning the old plug.

I would NEVER splice into factory wiring, unless there was simply no other alternative, and certainly would never use butt splices.....

I found the connector part number by searching this forum - if you want or need it and can’t find gimme a shout.
 

south7west

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You can order the factory connectors for about $10.00 each, shipped - I ordered a connector for the same reason (broken lock tab) - just need to figure out de-pinning the old plug.

I would NEVER splice into factory wiring, unless there was simply no other alternative, and certainly would never use butt splices.....

I found the connector part number by searching this forum - if you want or need it and can’t find gimme a shout.

Mind explaining why you wouldn't splice in new wires? I can't think of any other option to install a new connector unless you pull the old wires from the broken connector and then try to shove them in the new one. Splicing in new wires to the preexisting two that were already there shouldn't hurt anything as long as it was done right, and it's kinda hard to mess up splicing wires when there are only 3 wires. You mentioned never using butt connectors either, which some people prefer to solder in the two wires and then heat shrink the two, which is another perfectly good option, just a bit more time consuming.
 

HM_SanDiego

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Unless you are well versed in using environmental sealed splices, such as that used in aircraft wiring, I personally just do not trust or believe in splicing wires, unless there is no other reasonable option. I have an aviation maintenance background - do it once, and do it right.

Splicing wiring is actually more work then it would be to simply get a replacement connector, de-pin the broken connector, and re-pin the new connector, and it would avoid adding potential failure points.

Splicing wiring, with butt type or non environmentally sealed splices can and will introduce failure points, including points very susceptible to corrosion, and I personally do not want to do that. I live in So Cal., where we really don’t have weather related issues, but imagine the potential someplace in the rust belt or with significant weather.

To me, it just isn’t worth it.

Now, if you feel splicing is the right option for you, do it right the first time. Good luck
 

south7west

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Makes sense. Thanks for the explanation, hopefully OP has enough information to make up their mind :)
 

Jimmy07

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Swapping out bulbs and or headlight assemblies over the years I've managed to break the locking tabs on both sides of the headlight connectors. Will a generic for an auto store work? Also found some butt splices with the solder inside. They any good? I have them taped together but the LB on pass side is out. Drivers side the HB goes out. Need to repair soon. Thanks
Here’s the high/low beam connector on the truck harness that plugs into the headlight- https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKmtcsBT8Jq5JfI3MJHVq7EU=

Here’s the mating high/low beam connector on the headlight- https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...GAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKmtcsBT8Jq5JoL8%2BubWFtL8=
 
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cableguy_hd

cableguy_hd

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