Header install - Questions

[bigred90gt]

So, after determining the tick I was hearing was from a broken manifold bolt and not the infamous hemi tick, I decided to go ahead and get a set of shorty headers as opposed to trying to mess around with having the OEM manifolds reworked. If I'm going to go as far as taking them out, I might as well put in something better. I've watched every video and read everything I can find, and seems pretty straight forward. The only concern I have is with the dipstick mounting point. Stock, from what I can tell from the videos, it mounts to the stud where the heat shield mounts. That stud is going away with the headers and will be replaced by the header bolts. Am I correct to assume that I can just mount it in a similar fashion using the header bolts through the dipstick mounting tab? If not, would using the OEM stud in that location be feasible? With regards to the OEM stud, my concern is if the header flange is thinner than the OEM manifold flange, the stud will be too long and bottom out before it tightens to the head. I could always cut it I suppose, but would prefer to just use the hardware that comes with the headers. So, what did everyone do that installed shorty headers to replace your manifolds?

 

[DILLIGAF]

I just bent mine out of the way.

 

[bigred90gt]

Where did you mount the support tab that was on the manifold bolt/stud?

 

[savage_46]

For mine, I cut down a factory bolt/stud & put on the front of the header

 

[bigred90gt]

For mine, I cut down a factory bolt/stud & put on the front of the header

I was thinking that might be the easiest route.

unfortunately, it looks like I have time to really think about it. My headers showed up today, and they sent me the headers for an 03-08 ram instead of an 09-18 ram. Now I have to try to return them, get a refund, and reorder them since it was through Amazon. Normally with prime, I get my refunds within an hour of dropping items off, but for some reason, this one is saying 5-7 business days for the refund to process, then I’d have to order again and wait, since the correct headers are not showing up available on prime.

 

[Ramm5.7]

I was thinking that might be the easiest route.

unfortunately, it looks like I have time to really think about it. My headers showed up today, and they sent me the headers for an 03-08 ram instead of an 09-18 ram. Now I have to try to return them, get a refund, and reorder them since it was through Amazon. Normally with prime, I get my refunds within an hour of dropping items off, but for some reason, this one is saying 5-7 business days for the refund to process, then I’d have to order again and wait, since the correct headers are not showing up available on prime.

Which shorties did you go with??

 

[Wild one]

Lokar builds a flexible dipstick ,ED5015-24 if i remember right is the part number for their 24" long version.ED5015 only gets you a 15" long version,which is to short. I have a custom 31" long Lokar on my truck.Just throwing it out there ,as you should be able to tweak the stock one enough to work.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Where did you mount the support tab that was on the manifold bolt/stud?

Look at the picture, You can see were I bent the factory tab and mounted it behind the UCA.

 

[bigred90gt]

Which shorties did you go with??

After a bunch of research, I went with JBA. I had every intention of going with BBK, but apparently the ports on the BBK are round and smaller than the ports on the heads.

Aside from the hassle and the additional time I’m going to have to wait, it worked out. I bought the correct ones direct from JBA, and after registering my email I got a 10% off coupon. Ended up paying $577 out the door, vs $730 I’m getting back for the wrong ones.

 

[bigred90gt]

Look at the picture, You can see were I bent the factory tab and mounted it behind the UCA.

I missed that earlier. I’ll take a look into that.

 

[bigred90gt]

disregard. It was something else.

 

[bigred90gt]

The box with the (hopefully) correct headers should be here shortly (it’s in the next neighborhood over). I pulled the truck in the garage, took the wheels and well liners off earlier, and sprayed the manifold to y pipe bolts with PB blaster to get ready. I’m sure people will think I’m nuts for starting gnat at 7:00 in the evening, but if I don’t do it tonight (while my wife is at work), it won’t be till Valentine’s weekend when she is at work again. We don’t get to see each other much anymore with her working nights, so I try not to spend the days she’s off doing other **** like working on the truck. Since she’s off this weekend, I don’t want to be in the garage.

 

[bigred90gt]

Well, I think I had the best possible outcome as far as broken bolts. It was broken flush with the manifold flange, so plenty was sticking out. I actually was able to unscrew it with my fingers.

All I can say is that was a nightmare. It is impossible to actually torque most of the bolts, and nearly impossible to even get a wrench on them. The bolt heads are 3/8”, so the wrench is tiny and you can’t get any kind of torque on it. I fought a couple of them rather hard and got them as tight as I could (used a bigger wrench as a makeshift breaker bar), but I’m not sure if I got them torqued all the way given the limited space.

on the drivers side, anyone thinking of doing this, take your starter out. It makes access to the bottom bolts so much easier. I just hope I was able to get everything tight enough. When I cranked it, there was a tick for about 1/2 second. The tick from the broken bolt lasted 10-15 seconds. It went away so fast I couldn’t tell where it came from. I’ll try remote starting it in the morning and see if I can get an idea where it is. I damn sure don’t want to have to mess with any of that again, but I also don’t want anything leaking.

I started about 7:30, and took a break to bandage up the skin flap I created on my knuckle thanks to the gasket heat shield. All in, it was probably about 7 hours l, but I also never get in a hurry to do anything. I’m sure it could have been a little quicker, but I try not to rush so I don’t forget stuff.

 

[CheechDogg.0n37s]

You don't need to torque them much actually ....
17 ft-lbs for the actual manifold bolts; for the nuts that go over them and hold the heat shield on its 11 ft-lbs or 132 in lbs

 

[crackerjack1957]

Just about guarantee that manifold was warped, should have checked with straight edge.
Main cause of bolt breakage.......solution is to plane/mill manifold.
I hate doing same thing over because it wasn't right the 1st time.

 

[RedSRT4Me]

Question for those with the locking tabs as I've never used them.

Since they are metal will they ever cause issue with your knock sensors creating false knock and loss of ignition timing?

I like the way they look but boy does that look like a ***** to get in there.

I'm convinced if I do any major engine rebuild or cam swaps the whole front clip of the truck is coming off hood, fenders, and plastic. I like having working room.

 

[bigred90gt]

Just about guarantee that manifold was warped, should have checked with straight edge.
Main cause of bolt breakage.......solution is to plane/mill manifold.
I hate doing same thing over because it wasn't right the 1st time.

I’m certain they are. I don’t care enough to check them, as they’re not going back in. I may hang on to them for that “just in case” moment, but I have no plans to reuse them.

 

[bigred90gt]

You don't need to torque them much actually ....
17 ft-lbs for the actual manifold bolts; for the nuts that go over them and hold the heat shield on its 11 ft-lbs or 132 in lbs

I found 18 to be the spec. What I tried doing was torquing a bolt with easy access to it, then taking that tiny wrench by itself and seeing how much I force it took to move it, then the same again adding the bigger breaker bar wrench. Then tried to replicate that feel on the ones that were crowded out. But it’s such awkward hand positioning, it’s hard to get a good feel for it. I’m sure if I turned wrenches every day, it would have been much easier.

one thing that would have helped greatly is if I had a 3:8” flex head ratcheting wrench. Hell, even a regular ratcheting wrench would have helped. I realized last night my set came with 2x 7/16”, instead of a 3/8”.

 

[bigred90gt]

I just stuck my head under the front of the truck and remote started it and didn’t hear anything. I shut it off pretty quick so it wouldn’t get too hot, and I’ll remote start it again and listen before I leave in a bit. Hopefully it is all good. I really don’t want to have to tear back into it, and wouldn’t even know where to start. I felt around everything last night and didn’t feel any leaks, it you can only get so close to the headers. I damn sure didn’t want to burn my hands/arms checking.

 

[crackerjack1957]

I’m certain they are. I don’t care enough to check them, as they’re not going back in. I may hang on to them for that “just in case” moment, but I have no plans to reuse them.

**** should have read above those photos.....missed the header install......LoL