Leveling spacer long term reviews wanted

[Not_a_Prius]

So I’m looking at doing a 2” level in my 2012 sport and I’m undecided about bils or spacers. i know this forum tends to lean towards the bils but I’m still on the fence about giving up my cushy ride. I drive a lot of rough roads and back roads and the softer suspension is quite nice on them. I don’t think I’ll ever be at risk of hitting the performance limits of either leveling option. I’m just trying to get a feel for what the experience, of those of you with spacers installed, has been. Bad or good. I’m in a 2012, and I think the ball joint issue primarily affects 2013 and later. And I’m hoping with only 2”, the ucv’s wont be an issue. I’m trying to keep my costs down and some leveling options I’ve read seem to be competing with lift kits for price. Your feedback is appreciated.


TLDR: looking for long term reliability reviews of using leveling spacers.

 

[smithwessn]

I did 2" Hell Bent Steel spacers in my 12 at around 6k miles if I remember correctly. I'm at 39k now and have had zero problems with them. No control arm issues, no ball joint issues, no axle issues.

When the original shocks are shot, I'll replace them with bils. Until then, the HBS spacers are doing the job just fine.

 

[BWL]

I put a 2 front an 1 rear spacer in my truck 1st year I owned it in 2011. Only gave me 1.5 and 1 actual though. No issues for the life of the truck. Just sold it at 272,000km with the original and still tight front end except 1 tie rod.

 

[roadrnnr]

Same Here. Put a HBS 2" on at 10000 Miles and at 47000 no issues except I replaced a tie rod recently.

 

[ThunderMug95]

If the truck isnt going to seeing much more than a gravel road, you will be fine. Where the spacer gets some in trouble is at full extension of the control arms. I gave up the softer ride because I wanted the truck to handle better and it does... And lets face it, oem shocks are cheap. I couldnt believe difference in quality of the Bils vs oem.

 

[rwhjr]

If the truck isnt going to seeing much more than a gravel road, you will be fine. Where the spacer gets some in trouble is at full extension of the control arms. I gave up the softer ride because I wanted the truck to handle better and it does... And lets face it, oem shocks are cheap. I couldnt believe difference in quality of the Bils vs oem.

Really bc I have bilstein 5100 front struts (set on .7”) and don’t really feel like they’re that great. They’re not bad but I never understand the people who say 5100s are the bees knees. To me they get the job done if you’re looking for a level stance but for ride quality especially over bumps they’re just MEH....

 

[RedSRT4Me]

Really bc I have bilstein 5100 front struts (set on .7”) and don’t really feel like they’re that great. They’re not bad but I never understand the people who say 5100s are the bees knees. To me they get the job done if you’re looking for a level stance but for ride quality especially over bumps they’re just MEH....

Upgrade the control arms to get more out of your 5100's

My stock UCA's had me avoiding speed humps like the plague

 

[ThunderMug95]

yes the ride is rougher (springs preloaded)with my Bil’s (2.1) but its planted in corners. To be fair, I also have 12.5” wide tires on a 55 sidewall. The stock equip soaked up bumps better, but wallowed in corners in comparison. To each their own, my truck is tuned to my preferences etc. i have aggressive A/T tires for the dirty stuff and a stiffer/tighter suspension to handle the curves.

 

[Not_a_Prius]

Thanks for the input guys. I ended up going with spacers, and after running them over some rough construction roads and long highway drives I think I’m happy I did so. Before the level, I was 36” (the the top of the wheel arch) in the front and 39” in the back. Initially after the level, I was measuring 38.25” in the front and 38.75” in the back. Now that is settled, the back is the same but the front is sitting uneven, 37.25 on the driver side and 37.75 on the passenger side. The alignment also pulled so I’m getting some strong brake steer that wasn’t there prior and the passenger wheel has a positive camber to it. So I’m going to get the alignment fixed but I’m unsure as to why it settled so much and why it settled unevenly. I’ll be digging into that but any suggestions are appreciated. I still feel like this was the way to go as it was the most cost effective and preserved the factory ride. Surprisingly, I get similar or better mileage than before.

 

[roadrnnr]

Thanks for the input guys. I ended up going with spacers, and after running them over some rough construction roads and long highway drives I think I’m happy I did so. Before the level, I was 36” (the the top of the wheel arch) in the front and 39” in the back. Initially after the level, I was measuring 38.25” in the front and 38.75” in the back. Now that is settled, the back is the same but the front is sitting uneven, 37.25 on the driver side and 37.75 on the passenger side. The alignment also pulled so I’m getting some strong brake steer that wasn’t there prior and the passenger wheel has a positive camber to it. So I’m going to get the alignment fixed but I’m unsure as to why it settled so much and why it settled unevenly. I’ll be digging into that but any suggestions are appreciated. I still feel like this was the way to go as it was the most cost effective and preserved the factory ride. Surprisingly, I get similar or better mileage than before.

Most have a 1/2 differance from side to side due to the way the trucks are set up. Fuel Tank Driver weight etc.