Manifolds leak again, options please

[Dr. Righteous]

My passenger side rear 2 studs have sheared.... I need a fix but not a bandaid. I would like to re use my stock manifold or maybe buy a new manifold just wasn’t looking to throw headers at it

IF there is not much exposed of the broken stud a good method is to take a nut and weld it to the broken stud. This does 2 things. It gets the stud hot and give you a mechanical bond. Sometimes the weld breaks; just try it again. Usually this will work. If you don't have a welder you can get can do this with a $120 flux core wire welder. Watch some YouTUBE videos to get the methods down.
Would still be cheaper than taking it to a shop.

 

[RaptorHD]

I have Kooks headers on two cars (not trucks) and I swear by them.. second on the welding a nut to the stud if you do not have a stud puller

 

[parkerbows]

why does it seem to happen to these trucks so often? I know of other brand trucks its just not an issue whatsoever

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[Killface3]

I went with cheap, Amazon long tube headers and I love them they cost $300 and the y-pipe was around $250. It's really nice, thick stainless. Welds were decent but most importantly, they don't leak. I went with a felpro gasket because of the heat issue with long tubes. I wanted the heat Shields. You would have to get a tune though, now that I think about it. Do you have to get a tune with shorty headers?

 

[Dr. Righteous]

I went with cheap, Amazon long tube headers and I love them they cost $300 and the y-pipe was around $250. It's really nice, thick stainless. Welds were decent but most importantly, they don't leak. I went with a felpro gasket because of the heat issue with long tubes. I wanted the heat Shields. You would have to get a tune though, now that I think about it. Do you have to get a tune with shorty headers?

Cool; Details on the brands?

For the most part shorty headers do not offer much in efficiency for day to day driving. But the scavenging effect of long tube headers is proven. It can add to your MPG when properly tuned.
But the "old skool" approach was always a full dual exhaust with crossover tube before the mufflers was most efficient. I really don't know how it would work out with a single exhaust.

The last hot car I had was a '69 Dodge Coronet with a 10:1 383. I had headers and a full dual exhaust system. I don't member the exact cam specs but it was a Crane Powermax with a .488 lift and that required some overlap so at idle it has a pretty good lope. If you stood at the back of the car a few feet away the exhaust pulses would hit you and each pulse felt like a slap on the leg.

 

[jwhitebird]

Called Jegs, arp studs and bbk gaskets here tomorrow. Will try belt sander and straight edge trick. When the installing, torque everything while cold right? After a heat cycle do the studs need a retorque? Anything else to look for?

 

[jwhitebird]

Also replaced the pcv valve... hope that was the leak. thanks ram for making that $53

 

[jwhitebird]

Here goes nothin!

 

[jwhitebird]

Andddddd 1 out

 

[Killface3]

Cool; Details on the brands?

For the most part shorty headers do not offer much in efficiency for day to day driving. But the scavenging effect of long tube headers is proven. It can add to your MPG when properly tuned. I believe the long tubes were Auto Dynasty brand.
But the "old skool" approach was always a full dual exhaust with crossover tube before the mufflers was most efficient. I really don't know how it would work out with a single exhaust.

The last hot car I had was a '69 Dodge Coronet with a 10:1 383. I had headers and a full dual exhaust system. I don't member the exact cam specs but it was a Crane Powermax with a .488 lift and that required some overlap so at idle it has a pretty good lope. If you stood at the back of the car a few feet away the exhaust pulses would hit you and each pulse felt like a slap on the leg.

 

[Killface3]

I believe the brand was Auto Dynasty.