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Gary Fields

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Houston, TX
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2020
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Hemi 5.7
Regearing costs money and I doubt it would produce much additional mileage. At this point I'd keep driving as you are and try to get a diesel when finances permit or the current truck needs major work. Other than that try to drive on downhill roads and not uphill ones.
 

ZookaTx

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Wyoming
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2019
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Just as an example of how much difference wind drag makes, I have been shuttling back and forth from western Wyoming to central Texas for a year or so, 6 trips now? Towing a 16 foot long 7 feet high cargo trailer with a sort of pointed front. I'm sure you are familiar with I-80 across Wyoming, we would be on it from Laramie to just before Utah. Last trip there was a 30 to 40 MPH headwind from Laramie, I got 7 to 8 mpg on that stretch. Turned north and the wind shifted a bit, to behind me, and I got 16 mpg. Same speed, just no headwind.
 

W5RCD

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Gilmer, TX
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Hemi 6.4
I have a 2014 Ram 2500 and pull a 8200# travel trailer. The first time I pulled it, I was very disappointed in the MPA. I installed a 4" cat back AFE exhaust :
And a S&B Cold Air Intake: https://www.autoanything.com/air-intakes/sb-cold-air-intake.
My MPG jumped about the 1-1.5 you are looking for. It sounds like you are doing everything right. Keep up the good work. How is the lighter oil working out for you???
 
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Pktatum95

Pktatum95

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Ohio
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I have a 2014 Ram 2500 and pull a 8200# travel trailer. The first time I pulled it, I was very disappointed in the MPA. I installed a 4" cat back AFE exhaust :
And a S&B Cold Air Intake: https://www.autoanything.com/air-intakes/sb-cold-air-intake.
My MPG jumped about the 1-1.5 you are looking for. It sounds like you are doing everything right. Keep up the good work. How is the lighter oil working out for you???
Imma look into that brother. Thanks for that!

The lighter oil is doing great. I’ll have to get on my laptop to upload a oil report from the redline 5-30, but last time I changed my oil my redline shipment got delayed in the mail and I had to head out to Nevada, so I used PUP 5-30 in place of redline 5-30 and I have that report on my phone, as I received it yesterday.
Here it is-

The redline usually produces a little better results. I just switched to using Blackstone for reports. I’ll upload one of my older ones from redline when I get home.
 

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Pktatum95

Pktatum95

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Imma look into that brother. Thanks for that!

The lighter oil is doing great. I’ll have to get on my laptop to upload a oil report from the redline 5-30, but last time I changed my oil my redline shipment got delayed in the mail and I had to head out to Nevada, so I used PUP 5-30 in place of redline 5-30 and I have that report on my phone, as I received it yesterday.
Here it is-

The redline usually produces a little better results. I just switched to using Blackstone for reports. I’ll upload one of my older ones from redline when I get home.
That was 6,500 miles of obviously straight highway towing. I ran from Cleveland, out to Las Vegas, across I-70 and went thru Denver and the “gauntlet” on 70 there where the Eisenhower tunnel is lol. But that was out to Vegas, San Diego, LA, and the return back across 70 to wisconsin, Illinois, and last delivery made in Pa and then back home. 6,500 miles. I grossed 18k lbs headed out there, 25k lbs comin back. Oil temps stayin between 200-220 usually, topped out round 251-252 on the gauntlet. I like the 5-30 myself. As I said I prefer redline, but had to get on the road so just substituted PUP waitin on my redline since it was stuck in Pittsburgh at a shipping facility.
 

HEMIMANN

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2017 2500 Laramie Crew Cab
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6.4L HEMI
EPA allows higher Reid Vapor Pressure gas in winter, I believe across entire USA. That is gas that has less energy density. Not sure if you could / can store summer gas long enough to use year round, but it would increase your mileage in winter.

Already talked about 89 octane gas above, so I won't belabor again here except to say I use it year round (haven't run mpg numbers for 89 vs. 87).

The final thing is oxygenated gas - if you can use nonoxy gas where you are, do so. There is significant mileage reduction with oxygenated gas. My state mandates it. I don't think Feds mandate, but they allow up to 10% ethanal blends. Corn processors were lobbying for up to 15%, so far that has not been legislated.

You'd have to run the mpg numbers yourself on oxy vs. nonoxy gas to see if you save any money, or if the ethanol blenders have priced their oxygenated gas at the same $$ per mpg as nonoxy gas.

Too many entities playing too many games to get money from us!
 

Travelin Ram

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I agree with what’s been said, very unlikely to save enough money on fuel to pay for the gears. If it saves you anything at all.

With one caveat. IF you are experiencing a lot of gear changes, and a gear change enables you to cut way back on that, you might see 1/2 to 1 mpg at best. Based on my experience towing heavy all over the country. Gear shifts cause the transmission clutches to lock and unlock, engine pulls power to shift; none of that is good for economy.

When I’m driving for economy I may let the speed vary considerably just to stay locked up in one gear.
 

Snyd

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The Last Frontier
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I have a 2016 reg cab 6.4 4x4 with 4:10's. I don't tow/haul as much weight as you but when towing my TT with atv in bed, etc. I find the sweet spot for mpgs is 58mph and I don't run tow haul mode on the tranny. All that does is keep it in lower gear for longer. If I run 65 mpgs drop 1.5 or more. On flat or downhill or with a tailwind it will shift into 6th overdrive and since TowHaul mode is not on it will run on 4 cylinders. I know time is money when your'e working, but you solution might be the simplest one. Slow down, run without TowHaul mode when you can, let the tranny get into 6th on flats when it can.
 

Bigskyroadglide

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Op,

I respect what you're doing, hard work and providing for your family is important. My suggestions, take an inch or more out of front if possible and consider sometype of a roof mounted spoiler that creates more aero dynamics over the back of the trailer.

I'm no expert but seems the big rigs are low to the ground and have a device that pushes air over the trailer.

This could or could not be beneficial
 

retired

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i have not read all the posts but if nobody mentioned it put a big air dam under the front bumper. Have you seen the size of the air dams on the Ford SD? On a PW the air dam makes a bit of difference. Not enough for an average guy running around but for someone putting as many miles on as the OP every little bit helps.
 

Dean2

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I run 89 Octane in the summer as I get about 15% better mileage in hot weather. In cooler to cold weather, the 87 octane provides the same mileage as the 89 so I burn 87. Lots of advice on aero, and they are correect. Running with no trailer and scale weighed at 9,800 pounds, 2021 Ram with 6.4 and 3.73s, did a test run a few days ago. Reset the Evic each time we changed the primary direction of travel, heading east 40 mph wind out of the SW hitting on right rear corner, 19 mpg, turned south Wind now hitting right front corner and strong enough to move you around in the lane when it gusted, 14.8 mpg, then headed south SE, wind almost directly on the tailgate, 22 mpg.

Towing the kind of weight you are, minimising the impact of pushing through the air is going to give you far and away your best bang for the buck. Keeping your revs in the lower range while cruising will also help, cruise control works well for that as long as you takeover with manual food feed in hills. I would also experiment with tow versus non-tow. I know on flat ground non-tow gives me a lot better mileage. Best of luck, hope the patch comes back soon for you.
 
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Pktatum95

Pktatum95

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I run 89 Octane in the summer as I get about 15% better mileage in hot weather. In cooler to cold weather, the 87 octane provides the same mileage as the 89 so I burn 87. Lots of advice on aero, and they are correect. Running with no trailer and scale weighed at 9,800 pounds, 2021 Ram with 6.4 and 3.73s, did a test run a few days ago. Reset the Evic each time we changed the primary direction of travel, heading east 40 mph wind out of the SW hitting on right rear corner, 19 mpg, turned south Wind now hitting right front corner and strong enough to move you around in the lane when it gusted, 14.8 mpg, then headed south SE, wind almost directly on the tailgate, 22 mpg.

Towing the kind of weight you are, minimising the impact of pushing through the air is going to give you far and away your best bang for the buck. Keeping your revs in the lower range while cruising will also help, cruise control works well for that as long as you takeover with manual food feed in hills. I would also experiment with tow versus non-tow. I know on flat ground non-tow gives me a lot better mileage. Best of luck, hope the patch comes back soon for you.
Thank you brother. I appreciate it. Good info man.
 

SeppW

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I didn't see what tire size you are running, but even then, there is not much that can be done to increase MPG without substantial cash outlay and the ROI on MPG is still marginal. As a Hotshot aren't you subject to FMCSA/DOT inspections? Are they looking for mods to OE if you were ever pulled over for inspection? Do you run with tow mode activated? Choose routes that are relatively flat, I know that always doesn't work out especially when a load has a defined deliver date/time. Run a good quality oil and filter and air filter and keep the left door shut. You know it, but gassers aren't optimal for heavy, long-distance towing.
 
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I might be way off here and someone that knows should correct me, but from reading your initial post you're on stock wheels and tires. You might be giving some efficiency away with that combo.

If it was mine, I'd consider a set of 19.5's on some skinny all steel tires. Like a Goodyear endurance RSA or Kelly armorsteel. They're pricey, but for the amount of fuel you're going through they might pay the difference pretty quick. Just my .0002c.

I would also agree with the exhaust recommendation, while the stock system isn't exactly restrictive, more air in and out always helps.

Keep us in the loop. I'm pretty certain every 6.4 owner on the road wouldn't mind to pick up a mpg or even two!
 

RyckK

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Hi, 2015 - 2500, 6.4L, 4:10 gears, Air Lift 5000.
Monitor your engine temperature, cold engine = worse gas mileage.
Pulling a 13K 5th wheel mileage wasn't great but it got considerably worse in cold weather. The engine temp would slowly increase to normal operating temp and as soon as the thermostat opened, the engine temp would drop considerably staying cold for a long time before slowly heating up to repeat the cycle again. On one particularly cold run in Northern Ontario the inside of the exhaust tip was heavily coated with soot possibly due to over fueling and/or poor combustion. A cold weather front helped maintain engine temp better. Perhaps your thermostat is allowing your engine to run colder than normal.
 
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Pktatum95

Pktatum95

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Hi, 2015 - 2500, 6.4L, 4:10 gears, Air Lift 5000.
Monitor your engine temperature, cold engine = worse gas mileage.
Pulling a 13K 5th wheel mileage wasn't great but it got considerably worse in cold weather. The engine temp would slowly increase to normal operating temp and as soon as the thermostat opened, the engine temp would drop considerably staying cold for a long time before slowly heating up to repeat the cycle again. On one particularly cold run in Northern Ontario the inside of the exhaust tip was heavily coated with soot possibly due to over fueling and/or poor combustion. A cold weather front helped maintain engine temp better. Perhaps your thermostat is allowing your engine to run colder than normal.
That’s a very good point. And somethin to think about. What’s the stock operating temp/thermostat for these 6.4 trucks? 205? 185? Or do u know?
 

RyckK

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My normal/highest operating coolant temp was about 223 deg F (slightly below the Coolant Temp Gauge Mid Point on my truck). Temperatures would rarely/briefly exceed that even when towing. The 6.4 radiator has enormous cooling capacity.
Towing in below freezing weather the Coolant Temp would fall below 200 deg F and depending on ambient temperature could take well over 5 min to slowly climb back to normal before rapidly dropping again once the thermostat opened.
The winter front helped reduce the temperature cycling range and made a big difference in my towing gas mileage.
 
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Pktatum95

Pktatum95

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My normal/highest operating coolant temp was about 223 deg F (slightly below the Coolant Temp Gauge Mid Point on my truck). Temperatures would rarely/briefly exceed that even when towing. The 6.4 radiator has enormous cooling capacity.
Towing in below freezing weather the Coolant Temp would fall below 200 deg F and depending on ambient temperature could take well over 5 min to slowly climb back to normal before rapidly dropping again once the thermostat opened.
The winter front helped reduce the temperature cycling range and made a big difference in my towing gas mileage.
I guarantee you that’s hurting mine. I had a new radiator and thermostat put in at the dodge house bout 6 months ago and I recently got a scan gauge so I can monitor my **** more closely. And my coolant is always around 180 or so even when towing. I bet they put a 180 or the wrong thermostat in here. I usually do all my work myself, even big jobs. Rearend replacements and ect. But I had loads to run and used my back up truck and just put it in the shop to do it and I guarantee u they put the wrong one in here. Cuz my coolant RARELY sees 200.

I’ll be switching that out this week. Thank u for the insight brother.
 

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Pktatum95

Pktatum95

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2017
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6.4 hemi
My normal/highest operating coolant temp was about 223 deg F (slightly below the Coolant Temp Gauge Mid Point on my truck). Temperatures would rarely/briefly exceed that even when towing. The 6.4 radiator has enormous cooling capacity.
Towing in below freezing weather the Coolant Temp would fall below 200 deg F and depending on ambient temperature could take well over 5 min to slowly climb back to normal before rapidly dropping again once the thermostat opened.
The winter front helped reduce the temperature cycling range and made a big difference in my towing gas mileage.
I guarantee you that’s hurting mine. I had a new radiator and thermostat put in at the dodge house bout 6 months ago and I recently got a scan gauge so I can monitor my **** more closely. And my coolant is always around 180 or so even when towing. I bet they put a 180 or the wrong thermostat in here. I usually do all my work myself, even big jobs. Rearend replacements and ect. But I had loads to run and used my back up truck and just put it in the shop to do it and I guarantee u they put the wrong one in here. Cuz my coolant RARELY sees 200.
My normal/highest operating coolant temp was about 223 deg F (slightly below the Coolant Temp Gauge Mid Point on my truck). Temperatures would rarely/briefly exceed that even when towing. The 6.4 radiator has enormous cooling capacity.
Towing in below freezing weather the Coolant Temp would fall below 200 deg F and depending on ambient temperature could take well over 5 min to slowly climb back to normal before rapidly dropping again once the thermostat opened.
The winter front helped reduce the temperature cycling range and made a big difference in my towing gas mileage.
Just looked it up stock thermostat is 203 in these 6.4s. 20 degree difference. I bet money my mpg will improve when I get it switched out.
 

Zoe Saldana

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I actually have been considering a switch to 89 to experiment. Currently In Alabama runnin a load to PA. But I just filled up with 87 last night. Once I run these 132 gallons out, I’ll actually try that for 2/300 gallons and report back. Thank you for the suggestion.

Try 89 octaine and Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas. I tow and I noticed a small mpg gain with the MMO
 

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