MELTED STEAMING BATTERY , Dash Full Light Display , How to Diagnose ?

[oldmanram03]

Hi,
Very ODD thing happened yesterday, While waiting in a parking lot at Smokey Point yesterday, I had my truck idling for about 40 minutes, when I went to leave, I had thought 'I'll check the oil', while engine was still running I opened the hood to the smell of rotten eggs, sodium, and looked over at my passenger side battery, It was steaming, and was covered in "water" upon closer inspection, it was covered in battery fluid that was steaming hot. I quickly covered my eyes and lowered the hood, found some paper garbage bags to cover the battery, and made my way home. The volt meter was showing 8 volts, and the check gauges light was lit on the dash. As I made my way to the Stanwood exit , the truck KINDA seemed to run a little ODD, but not much, as I got closer to the exit , more and more lights started lighting up, BRAKE light, then ABS light, then Seatbelts , when I got to the exit I shifted into Neutral to coast on down the offramp, when I did, all the idiot lights went out, and I had 14 volts, HUH ???, I just kind of took it easy on the way home, engine running fine, all the time looking at the hood expecting an explosion from under the hood. But I made it home , pulled up next to my pressure washer and hosed that half of the engine compartment down for 15 minutes. When the smoke cleared , LITERALLY, I took these photos...........













Next Morning: Turned Key to on position, reading 13.75 Volts,
Continued to turn key Engine Stared , relatively quickly, NO EXTRA DASH LIGHTS on
I then turned the engine off : And hooked up my FOXWELL scanner to it .................
NO CODES !! ZERO ZILCH NADA

The question is:

Did the battery ground out causing the short in the plates ..... OR
Did the Voltage regulator get stuck causing more volage to flow to the batteries , thus causing the melt-down and subsequent Shorting of the plates .......
Hmmmmm

Batteries are 5-1/2 years old, sticker (7-2020)
SUPER START EXTREME Group 65
)
Ways to move Forward:
A) Replace Both Batteries with big type 31 wet plates (Problem could come back, fry one or both batteries again)
B) Replace both Batteries with largest AGM's available (Problem could come back causing expensive batteries to fry)
C) Replace with cheap batteries ......See how it runs for a month.........replace with good batteries .........
D) Replace the one dead battery with a dead battery brought to life from battery pile, then run diagnostics ..... hmmmmmmm
E) Take off Positive cable / Leave negative attached, start and run to Autoshop/Parts Store on one battery

F) Have truck towed to Repair Shop and have them fix it the way I want it fixed ,
Diagnosed / New HUGE AGM Batteries / New Cables / New Ends (Military) / Add a 60amp sub panel under hood to run NEW Air Horn Compressor's (Yes, Plural )

Which would you choose ?

After doing a little more poking around , it was suggested to look at the crossover cable, so I did
Photos of what I found :
This is the Driver side battery, the crossover cable end shows signs of heating, the ground bolts looks OK, the zip ties used to tie down the rubber battery covers show signs of melting, as do the covers.



As I moved the crossover cable to get a better look , I noticed the cable moved a lot easier than I rememeber from before ...Hmmmm
Possible broken cable end ?
From corrosion over 23 years ?

That's where I am now any idea's are always appreciated ............. I'll look at it some more later ..........
Maybe check the continuity in the crossover cable.
What are your idea's ?

 

[MrBonez]

Looks like the battery has a problem regardless and that one needs to be replaced.
HOWEVER - A bad voltage regulator can and will cause such to happen too because these symptoms and the visuals too indicates the battery is being slow-roasted to death and even a new battery won't fix that problem.

It could be a battery that's gone bad and forcing the alternator to mega-charge it due to battery resistance to being charged or as said, the regulator in the charging system is bad forcing the same basic condition to occur.

In your particular case:

Replace the battery first.
Then see how the charging system is treating it by letting it run and checking actual charging voltage - Don't rely on the gauge in your truck to do this checking since voltage numbers are what you need to see and know.
If it spikes above 15.5v's that's a sure sign of either a stone-cold dead battery or bad regulator, esp if you know the battery should be OK.

If the battery isn't already dead, that needs to be fixed ASAP or you may have a battery blow up on you at some point.

15v's or more isn't unheard of but only in cases of an already semi to heavily depleted battery, normal charging voltage range should be from 13.5 to about 14.5v's nominal. Note It can spike above that on occasion, based on electrical system load and actual battery charge state at the time it's checked.

Just know the system should work to keep it around that range of voltage, more or less.

Also:
Keep the fluid level in your battery filled properly.

If you let it go down that can cause a battery to cook leading to the same thing as well.


Get it to full charge first, then check and top off as needed with distilled water.

Never use tap water due to all the minerals and so on naturally dissolved in it.
If you use tap water, that can cause build up over time around the plates at the bottom, resulting in a shorted battery cell or cells.

Also:
If you fill it first then charge it the battery water level will rise and overflow from the battery, getting acid everywhere. That's because when a battery is being charged/charging it generates suphuric gas from down inside the battery and that will "Push" water up and out if the fluid level is too high.

When topping off cells, it's full when you see the water level touching the bottom of the little slotted collars in the top of the battery.

NEVER fill a battery to the tippy-top, the little slits you see down just below the surface of the battery caps need to be exposed to air so the battery can breathe and not push fluid out as it generates suphuric gas from below while it charges.
This gas naturally rises and it will push water out when it does, that's why it must have these slits exposed to atmosphere so it can release the gas without pushing water up and out.
Also make sure the vents in your caps aren't blocked so this gas can escape like it should.

Charge the battery - Check the fluid level - Don't overfill - Done.

 

[Magfan2]

I have never idled a vehicle that long, even driving a squad car that I didn't own but was assigned. Be curious - following.

 

[GeauxinUp]

Do these trucks even have an external voltage regulator? I thought they were controlled by the pcm? Either way, either something caused overcharging, or your battery had internal problems, which put it into thermal runaway. Lucky it didn't explode.

 

[huntergreen]

Is it possible your battery had frozen?

 

[Grams]

Those corroded battery terminals are the ROOT CAUSE of the problem.

Due to poor conductivity they provided the charging system erroneous low-current feedback and created an Over-Charge request from the alternators, which, in-turn, drove the electrolyte out of those O-Reilly batteries. when the battery went “dry” it fried.

You are lucky an under-hood Fire did not occur as you continued to operated it. You could have lost the entire vehicle.

Replace Both batteries and All heavy-duty battery cables and inspect for other damaged wiring and for corroded or overheated connectors to be replaced.

 

[markabby]

I have never idled a vehicle that long, even driving a squad car that I didn't own but was assigned. Be curious - following.

my thoughts too...40 minutes??

 

[Daw14]

Replace the terminals , probably cables would also be a good idea.

 

[EdGs]

Damn, you are lucky. As others have said, replace BOTH batteries and replace battery cables and clean connection points as needed.

Looks like that battery shorted, dragged the system down, and cooked until it went open-circuit. That's when your voltage recovered.

Check out your regulator circuit, too.

Wild. And scary

Good luck, post up your repairs and results.

 

[Docwagon1776]

I have never idled a vehicle that long, even driving a squad car that I didn't own but was assigned. Be curious - following.

In the CVPI with an MDT days, our SOP was to run them all shift in the winter. Keep the windows clear and keep the MDT from sapping the battery.

Even with the more recent cars and much more power efficient laptops vs the old MDTs, they'll idle blocking a crime scene or gnarly crash for hours. Yet, somehow, they just don't die in the large numbers the internet suggests idling would cause.

 

[EdGs]

At one of our local supermarkets, there's a Sheriff's Deputy stationed by the entrance weekends and evenings.

His Ford SUV sits outside idling, with the blue and red lights lit solid while he's there. At least 3-4 hours each day he's there.

 

[Grams]

And

At one of our local supermarkets, there's a Sheriff's Deputy stationed by the entrance weekends and evenings.

His Ford SUV sits outside idling, with the blue and red lights lit solid while he's there. At least 3-4 hours each day he's there.

And YOU and your neighbors are paying for that vehicle…..while the store pays the deputy doing extra security on his off-time.

A local church in my area …does the same thing… pays a deputy to sit in a county-cop-car to slow traffic down outside the sanctuary on Sundays.

 

[Docwagon1776]

And


And YOU and your neighbors are paying for that vehicle…..while the store pays the deputy doing extra security on his off-time.

A local church in my area …does the same thing… pays a deputy to sit in a county-cop-car to slow traffic down outside the sanctuary on Sundays.

That varies by jurisdiction. Some places have "Chief's overtime" / "Sheriff's overtime" and any part time off duty work is contracted through the department at a set rate. It's a better deal for officers, as you get your on duty protections vs just civilian worker's comp. The department gets reimbursed and all part time gets paid the same.

We are not one of those jurisdictions, but our general orders require anybody working private part time to also take action as required so we're getting a "free" officer for the cost of equipment use. Tourist heavy areas and bar district would be much more expensive to staff without private part time.

 

[oldmanram03]

I have never idled a vehicle that long, even driving a squad car that I didn't own but was assigned. Be curious - following.

I am in Washington, it was about 40 degrees out , and I had an hour to kill in between doctor appointments, I can't ever remember idling that long in one place either , but I wanted to do some reading and was waiting for the old lady to show up. If I ever did idle that long in one place , I'm glad I didn't run into you back in the day, I'd have probably been wearing chrome bracelets you guys carry around , but, that was long ago , a life time ago. 20 years C&S , thank you for your service

 

[Magfan2]

There is a very good Bar / Restaurant / Casino across from the clinic - I sure don't sit in the truck or SUV waiting for the Wife. Won $50 (rare) last time!

 

[oldmanram03]

Looks like the battery has a problem regardless and that one needs to be replaced.
HOWEVER - A bad voltage regulator can and will cause such to happen too because these symptoms and the visuals too indicates the battery is being slow-roasted to death and even a new battery won't fix that problem.

It could be a battery that's gone bad and forcing the alternator to mega-charge it due to battery resistance to being charged or as said, the regulator in the charging system is bad forcing the same basic condition to occur.

In your particular case:

Replace the battery first.
Then see how the charging system is treating it by letting it run and checking actual charging voltage - Don't rely on the gauge in your truck to do this checking since voltage numbers are what you need to see and know.
If it spikes above 15.5v's that's a sure sign of either a stone-cold dead battery or bad regulator, esp if you know the battery should be OK.

If the battery isn't already dead, that needs to be fixed ASAP or you may have a battery blow up on you at some point.

15v's or more isn't unheard of but only in cases of an already semi to heavily depleted battery, normal charging voltage range should be from 13.5 to about 14.5v's nominal. Note It can spike above that on occasion, based on electrical system load and actual battery charge state at the time it's checked.

Just know the system should work to keep it around that range of voltage, more or less.

Also:
Keep the fluid level in your battery filled properly.

If you let it go down that can cause a battery to cook leading to the same thing as well.


Get it to full charge first, then check and top off as needed with distilled water.

Never use tap water due to all the minerals and so on naturally dissolved in it.
If you use tap water, that can cause build up over time around the plates at the bottom, resulting in a shorted battery cell or cells.

Also:
If you fill it first then charge it the battery water level will rise and overflow from the battery, getting acid everywhere. That's because when a battery is being charged/charging it generates suphuric gas from down inside the battery and that will "Push" water up and out if the fluid level is too high.

When topping off cells, it's full when you see the water level touching the bottom of the little slotted collars in the top of the battery.

NEVER fill a battery to the tippy-top, the little slits you see down just below the surface of the battery caps need to be exposed to air so the battery can breathe and not push fluid out as it generates suphuric gas from below while it charges.
This gas naturally rises and it will push water out when it does, that's why it must have these slits exposed to atmosphere so it can release the gas without pushing water up and out.
Also make sure the vents in your caps aren't blocked so this gas can escape like it should.

Charge the battery - Check the fluid level - Don't overfill - Done.

Mr. Bonez, Very good info , thanks for all that , much appreciated , and I agree with all of it ...... In process of going through cables now , will update with results

 

[oldmanram03]

Is it possible your battery had frozen?

In Washington , it was about 40 degree's out , so I'm going with NO , but that's one I hadn't thought of

 

[oldmanram03]

Those corroded battery terminals are the ROOT CAUSE of the problem.

Due to poor conductivity they provided the charging system erroneous low-current feedback and created an Over-Charge request from the alternators, which, in-turn, drove the electrolyte out of those O-Reilly batteries. when the battery went “dry” it fried.

You are lucky an under-hood Fire did not occur as you continued to operated it. You could have lost the entire vehicle.

Replace Both batteries and All heavy-duty battery cables and inspect for other damaged wiring and for corroded or overheated connectors to be replaced.

I think the corrosion is definitely a partner in crime in the incident.

Only problem with that is that the cells were not dry, I top off every 6 month's and you can see in a couple of the cells that were less exploded that there is still electrolyte in the cell,

I am lucky though , no doubt

In process of going through every single cable .......

Thanks I'll keep you guys updated ,

 

[oldmanram03]

Damn, you are lucky. As others have said, replace BOTH batteries and replace battery cables and clean connection points as needed.

Looks like that battery shorted, dragged the system down, and cooked until it went open-circuit. That's when your voltage recovered.

Check out your regulator circuit, too.

Wild. And scary

Good luck, post up your repairs and results.

I'm thinking that's what happened , It looks like some boys in blue are following, this is a bit of a mystery , I've been around vehicles , and worked on them for over 50 years, and I have only been around one battery that exploded, 35 years ago , on a job site , a Dump truck was giving or getting a jump , we were all on the other side of the truck BS'n when BAM , it went off, got lucky that day too....

Will do on the regulator, I have too many vehicles to remember what kind of voltage regulator this rig has , but I how to look it up. thx

 

[oldmanram03]

There is a very good Bar / Restaurant / Casino across from the clinic - I sure don't sit in the truck or SUV waiting for the Wife. Won $50 (rare) last time!

I can't remember the last time I had this much law enforcement following me , ow , wait I might remember ........let's just say it was something I'm not proud of, nuff said
That was a lifetime ago .............................................
Saw the light
Glad to "Back the Blue" now
20+years C&S