Morimoto HID help.

[RedSRT4Me]

No. A member on cumminsforum used an oscilloscope on both settings (hid and led), and the led low beam setting does nothing.

I think it's purpose is to stop the bulb out warnings? Just my educated guess.

 

[RedSRT4Me]

View attachment 156827 This may be a clue, could this indicate yet another bad ballast?

I got that code the first time I installed my ballasts.

Turned out my polarity was backwards on the ballasts. Took me all of a min to see the + and -

That's the only problem I've had with my HID kit.

I did not stuff everything behind the cap. I did the dremel methond allowing the wires to exit at the bottom of the dust cap and a I dremeled out. IE no giant hole drilled in the cap.

I'll have to snap a pic the next time I get back into it

 

[CincyCuda68]

The response you got from TRS is complete BS. They call that customer service? Well stuff doesn't work because Ram sucks and it's your problem. I don't think so, cheap Ebay kits work perfectly fine so they are obviously better at making HID kits than morimoto or TRS. Oh yeah and they offer a no questions asked 2 year warranty.

Yeah and then he hung up on me because I got pissed that he kept blaming the truck and the ground. He wouldn’t accept that my ground was good, and when I told him I yanked the relay harness he had a cow telling me all about pulse width modulation, told him I turned that off in the bcm but he wouldn’t accept that. The reason I am upset is that he wouldn’t listen to me when I told him it was the factory ground point and there wasn’t paint on it. He just kept saying it over and over.

IMO if it were a ground then neither of the lights would work as the relay harness has 1 ground wire for the whole system, but I guess I’m an idiot.

Bottom line is that turning on HID in BCM and yanking the harness is working for now. Having a hard time trusting it but we will see.

Thank you for your help.

 

[CincyCuda68]

I got that code the first time I installed my ballasts.

Turned out my polarity was backwards on the ballasts. Took me all of a min to see the + and -

That's the only problem I've had with my HID kit.

I did not stuff everything behind the cap. I did the dremel methond allowing the wires to exit at the bottom of the dust cap and a I dremeled out. IE no giant hole drilled in the cap.

I'll have to snap a pic the next time I get back into it

I can guarantee the my polarity is correct. Seems I had an issue with the relay harness and the projector conversion harness, both purchased from TRS, I’ll never buy anything from them again. 3 out of 4 balalasts were bad, or the harness killed them but either way it is all parts from TRS.

 

[CincyCuda68]

I must be lucky, I’ve had my Morimoto 35W for over a year without any problems. If it does go out I think I'll try the DDM next

I will not buy anything Morimoto ever again, all of us have parts that are DOA or that have issues but the service sucks, I’ll call them back tomorrow because I want my ballasts replaced so I can keep them for spares if I loose another one.

 

[Kinetic]

I will not buy anything Morimoto ever again, all of us have parts that are DOA or that have issues but the service sucks, I’ll call them back tomorrow because I want my ballasts replaced so I can keep them for spares if I loose another one.

Not just Morimoto but more so TRS for their utter lack of customer service.

 

[RedSRT4Me]

Not just Morimoto but more so TRS for their utter lack of customer service.

Agreed. I haven't had any problems with my Morimoto gear and if you want great customer service [email protected] sells the components or kits.

 

[CincyCuda68]

Agreed. I haven't had any problems with my Morimoto gear and if you want great customer service [email protected] sells the components or kits.

I’m getting ready to buy exhaust from him, seems like a great guy!!!!

 

[Jimmy07]

Yeah and then he hung up on me because I got pissed that he kept blaming the truck and the ground. He wouldn’t accept that my ground was good, and when I told him I yanked the relay harness he had a cow telling me all about pulse width modulation, told him I turned that off in the bcm but he wouldn’t accept that. The reason I am upset is that he wouldn’t listen to me when I told him it was the factory ground point and there wasn’t paint on it. He just kept saying it over and over.

IMO if it were a ground then neither of the lights would work as the relay harness has 1 ground wire for the whole system, but I guess I’m an idiot.

Bottom line is that turning on HID in BCM and yanking the harness is working for now. Having a hard time trusting it but we will see.

Thank you for your help.

Hopefully you’re all squared away now and no more problems. As far as the ground, I know exactly which one you’re talking about, and it’s obviously a good factory grounding point. Here’s a post showing the PWM between the settings. Maybe TRS should have a look at it- https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/28825269-post18.html

 

[CincyCuda68]

I wanted to post that @TRSRalph from TRS has reached out to me to get my ballasts replaced and try to make this situation right. I personally will never use them again but I find it only fair to let everyone know that he seems to care and offered to replace my bad parts.

****edit**** @TRSRalph called me today and was great to work with. I guess every company can have a bad guy or maybe he was having an off day. Ralph is sending replacements for the bad parts and offered to send a few other parts for my bad experience. It’s refreshing when someone takes time out of their busy day to personally make things right with a customer. This is something I find severely lacking in our country today.

Thank you @TRSRalph for all of your help today.

 

[CincyCuda68]

Just an update, everything has worked well for a week now. Turning on HID in Alphaodb and eliminating the harness and replacing the ballasts has stabilized everything.
Still not sure if I was just unlucky and had 3 bad ballasts or if something in that harness was killing them.

I have to say it’s a much cleaner and easier install eliminating the harness and those huge resistors.

 

[TonyMM]

Great!!

Did you disable the LED for low beams when you set the HID for low beams in AlfaOBD, right?

 

[CincyCuda68]

Great!!

Did you disable the LED for low beams when you set the HID for low beams in AlfaOBD, right?

Not really, I originally had quads that I replaced with oem projectors and installed LED, they worked fine with the TRS conversion harness, I never touched the lights in alpha at all.

Once I started having issues with the HID conversion, the people here (on this post) helped me yank the harness and resistors and then I made that one change in alpha, I left everything else the way it was.

So right now it’s set to quads—> yes and High Intesity Discharge —> yes

 

[Lee Peterson]

Just an update, everything has worked well for a week now. Turning on HID in Alphaodb and eliminating the harness and replacing the ballasts has stabilized everything.
Still not sure if I was just unlucky and had 3 bad ballasts or if something in that harness was killing them.

I have to say it’s a much cleaner and easier install eliminating the harness and those huge resistors.

I'm starting to wonder if my Morimoto harness is bad. My passenger side Kensun ballast only lasted 4 months. I replaced them with DDM and I notice a delay in the passenger side turning on, sometimes it doesn't. I have Alfaobd and switched to HID enable. I'm going to remove my harness see if that fixes it.

 

[CincyCuda68]

I'm starting to wonder if my Morimoto harness is bad. My passenger side Kensun ballast only lasted 4 months. I replaced them with DDM and I notice a delay in the passenger side turning on, sometimes it doesn't. I have Alfaobd and switched to HID enable. I'm going to remove my harness see if that fixes it.

That is exactly what was happening to me, sometimes the passenger side would take 10-15 seconds, I’d get the light out warning then it would fire. After only a day the ballast blew. Installed new ballast and sometimes passenger light would work sometimes not. Then I replaced the igniter made no difference. 3rd day the drivers ballast blew.

I removed the harness and resistors, set HIgh Intensity Discharge to yes, left all other headlight settings as they were. I still have 1 issue, the passenger light doesn’t always fire when I unlock the doors but it does fire every time when the lights come on, auto or manual.
I’m going to replace the passenger igniter 1 more time when I get the replacement and see if that fixed the final issue.

 

[Dennis W Halstead]

Try this HID kit on and it works great. Good for 10 months now.
https://headlightrevolution.com/200...adlights-upgrade-low-beam-hid-conversion-kit/

Also youtube instructions on site

 

[TonyMM]

I have HID (with all the stuff attached to them) working fine but I just enabled HID in AlfaOBD because I think it will extend their life without any PWM. I kept however all the stiff attached to them.


Same for my leds as fog and high beam (with resistors) set to led for the same reason.

 

[Jimmy07]

I have HID (with all the stuff attached to them) working fine but I just enabled HID in AlfaOBD because I think it will extend their life without any PWM. I kept however all the stiff attached to them.


Same for my leds as fog and high beam (with resistors) set to led for the same reason.

That could probably have a negative affect. You should do one or the other. If you enable the settings, then ditch the resistors.

 

[TonyMM]

That could probably have a negative affect. You should do one or the other. If you enable the settings, then ditch the resistors.

I was assuming that the resistors would have less “stress” /“work” and that the whole system would last longer. Do I think wrong? Why?

 

[JB1]

I have HID (with all the stuff attached to them) working fine but I just enabled HID in AlfaOBD because I think it will extend their life without any PWM. I kept however all the stiff attached to them.


Same for my leds as fog and high beam (with resistors) set to led for the same reason.

That’s not causing an error?