My Prerunner Build

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ttthiel

ttthiel

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Got a quote from a shop in Michigan for a custom short course rear end and they wanted $8300 for everything and it would pull 16-18 inches. After talking with some other dodge guys with custom rear suspensions they are pulling 16 inches using stock mounting points on the control arms and custom bedcages. I will probably take this approach and save quite a bit of money that way. 16 inches should be sufficient with 13.5 in the front. Anyone disagree? I am also getting a quote for a custom 4 link rear end as well from a different shop but I assume it will be close to the $8k. I am currently doing the rear bedsides. I took the bed off and just started cutting away at the stock ones. Definitely not a bolt on project but it has not been terrible yet. Here are some pictures!

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ttthiel

ttthiel

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A little update on the truck. Finishing the bedsides tonight so hopefully I will have pics up by the weekend. In regards to the rear suspension I am going use stock mounting points for the control arms and track bar but buy the GOR extended beefier arms. I will be purchasing 2.5x16 inch IBP compression adjustable king coilovers for the rear and then have a local shop build a custom bed cage. I am hoping to take it to the shop to finish everything by july sometime. That is pretty wishful thinking seeing kings take forever to come in but that is what I am pushing for!
 
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ttthiel

ttthiel

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Quick dumb question for some suspension guys. What holds up the rear axle at full droop? Would it be the sway bar only? If so is the only way you can remove the sway bar completely is if you put a limit strap on it?
 

hodge-xj

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Quick dumb question for some suspension guys. What holds up the rear axle at full droop? Would it be the sway bar only? If so is the only way you can remove the sway bar completely is if you put a limit strap on it?
Stock setup when I did my coils.......the stock shocks limited it first, than the sway bar, than the brake lines, and eventually the bushings in the control arms were binding. But yea, as I unbolted thibgs it dropped more and more till it seemed the track bar and control arms were the only thing holding it in. With your amount of travel you'll for sure need good limit straps. Other wise your axle is gonna be free balling back there. With no sway bar and long enough shocks you can easily pop a cool out accidentally. Ram1500rsm was playing with his bump setup for a while and used big hose clamps on his rear coils.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
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ttthiel

ttthiel

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Stock setup when I did my coils.......the stock shocks limited it first, than the sway bar, than the brake lines, and eventually the bushings in the control arms were binding. But yea, as I unbolted thibgs it dropped more and more till it seemed the track bar and control arms were the only thing holding it in. With your amount of travel you'll for sure need good limit straps. Other wise your axle is gonna be free balling back there. With no sway bar and long enough shocks you can easily pop a cool out accidentally. Ram1500rsm was playing with his bump setup for a while and used big hose clamps on his rear coils.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

As of right now I am completely stock in the rear minus the bilstein 5100 shocks. I plan to go to the dunes a couple of time before my rear end suspension will be completed and was pondering the idea to remove the rear sway bar for some more fun but it sounds like I need to keep the sway bar otherwise nothing will be stopping the axle fast enough. I do not want to count on my little bilstein shocks to stop that kind of weight.
 

McBroom

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Do the custom short course rear and utilize the 16-18” of gained travel. If ya don’t you’ll definitely wanna kick yourself in the ass when ya needed it n didn’t have it. JMHO


And it’s looking really sharp!!!


I love my truck!
Blue Mule 18 Ram 4x4 C/C
Tradesman Power Wagon
 

McBroom

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Don’t forget to lengthen all of the lines n hoses to compensate for full droop. The maybe some type of bungee cords or something to hold them up while the suspension is loaded.


I love my truck!
Blue Mule 18 Ram 4x4 C/C
Tradesman Power Wagon
 
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ttthiel

ttthiel

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Don’t forget to lengthen all of the lines n hoses to compensate for full droop. The maybe some type of bungee cords or something to hold them up while the suspension is loaded.


I love my truck!
Blue Mule 18 Ram 4x4 C/C
Tradesman Power Wagon

Yes! For sure something to keep in mind with brake lines and what not! But utilizing the stock rear control arm mounting points with a bedcage and coilovers i should still be pulling 16 inches of travel. Should be plenty seeing up front I only have 13.5 or so
 

revitupmoto33

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As of right now I am completely stock in the rear minus the bilstein 5100 shocks. I plan to go to the dunes a couple of time before my rear end suspension will be completed and was pondering the idea to remove the rear sway bar for some more fun but it sounds like I need to keep the sway bar otherwise nothing will be stopping the axle fast enough. I do not want to count on my little bilstein shocks to stop that kind of weight.
When I was running without the rear sway I put some limit straps in there place. Quick and easy solution.

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ttthiel

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Well I got the bedsides installed and the bed on! Not the easiest thing I have ever done but was not the worst i guess either. I am not happy at all with the fitment of the driver side tail light but the passenger side fits great! Also I tried to eliminate my traction control and abs by pulling the abs valve relay ( i think it is J05 if i remember correctly) but I completely lost my speedometer which is not acceptable. So can anyone point me in the right direction on this? Really looking to get rid of both traction control and abs by going the easiest route so please let me know! I also had the truck out ripping around and unbeliveable the performance the dirk king kit offers. Absolute washed out roads up here in michigan and I was flying around without feeling a thing so I could not be happier with the front end at the moment. I do have a trip planned for silver lake sand dunes at the end of the month so I am hoping to get some sweet shots and fly around the dunes. I will keep this posted as well as I can! Still working on what rear shocks to run as well but not in a huge hurry to get the rear done due to funds and it being dune season.

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revitupmoto33

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Found this diagram from a fellow poster don’t recall who. Try Fuse F26. Disables abs tcs, I followed the diagram and ran a switch to bypass it. Truck handles wonderfully when bypassed. It will throw check engine light as well till you put the fuse back or turn off the switch.

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revitupmoto33

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That is an absolutely genius idea. I will probably do this for sure! thanks!
Make sure you account for the limit straps stretching, plan for 1” stretch for every 12” of strap. So 12” strap will settle out around 13”. Using that info I set them at the full stretched amount 1/2” before full shock extension.
 
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ttthiel

ttthiel

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Found this diagram from a fellow poster don’t recall who. Try Fuse F26. Disables abs tcs, I followed the diagram and ran a switch to bypass it. Truck handles wonderfully when bypassed. It will throw check engine light as well till you put the fuse back or turn off the switch.

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I will look into that fuse tonight for sure! Do you or anyone else have any information about disabling the air bags? I am making a trip this weekend and do not want the air bags going off anytime soon. Is there an srs fuse or relay?
 

revitupmoto33

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I will look into that fuse tonight for sure! Do you or anyone else have any information about disabling the air bags? I am making a trip this weekend and do not want the air bags going off anytime soon. Is there an srs fuse or relay?
I have no idea about the airbags, I’d assume there is some sort of inertia switch on these trucks and probably a fuse.
 
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ttthiel

ttthiel

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Found this diagram from a fellow poster don’t recall who. Try Fuse F26. Disables abs tcs, I followed the diagram and ran a switch to bypass it. Truck handles wonderfully when bypassed. It will throw check engine light as well till you put the fuse back or turn off the switch.

View attachment 162893

Looking at my truck right now and I don’t even have an f26. All of my fuses are j, m, or w
 

revitupmoto33

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Very interesting, maybe you’ll have one with the same description.

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ttthiel

ttthiel

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Very interesting, maybe you’ll have one with the same description.

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This is what my fuse box is under the hood on my 2010. I removed J05 abs valve and lost my speedometer. The only other one i see is J04 which is the abs pump which I will try tonight. Also I removed M44 and M45 for the airbags. I started the truck up and the air bag light is on but will this disable anything when I attempt to drive it does anyone know? Like i said I started it up and it threw the light on but no code at all. Thanks for all the help everyone!

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revitupmoto33

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I don’t have the slightest clue, I’m sure someone on this forum has done this before.
 

ram1500rsm

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I have no idea how to disable or bypass the airbags either. I think disconnecting the harness under the seat might disable them, but that might cause other unwanted issues. Perhaps try our engine/performance section and see what the tuners think about it, I’m sure the fellas doing drag racing and installing racing seats have dealt with the airbags.

For the traction control you might think investing in Hptuners, not only because you can disable the traction control with it but also because you can tune many other different things, fan settings, torque management, fueling, timing etc.
I’ve eliminated some TM from my tune and I haven’t have the need to disable my traction control in full. For traction control you can write a tune to disable it completely, or you can disable it on the fly and when you shut the engine off the feature reverts back to normal. You need a laptop with you every time you want to do it this way, or you can make TM less aggressive or not aggressive at all. I like mine in full until i choose to disable the traction control using the button.

Good luck.
 
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