Need a decent/cheap 4ohm 100-400w RMS sub amp

[adrianp89]

I am still a fan of using a LOC with gain adjustments, always running a dedicated remote wire, and using the bass knob from the manufacturer of the amp.

 

[blackbetty14]

I am still a fan of using a LOC with gain adjustments, always running a dedicated remote wire, and using the bass knob from the manufacturer of the amp.

So you run the LOC gain knob and the amp gain knob together?

 

[adrianp89]

No separate knob the LOC. I just like having the option built into the LOC incase I can't get level how I want it, it gives a little more flexibility.

 

[blackbetty14]

lol wait... I meant you run 2 knobs. 1 gain knob for the LOC and the other for the amp? I just meant you run both simultaneously.

 

[adrianp89]

No - I would only ever run one and it would be the one meant for the amplifier.

 

[blackbetty14]

Ok, gotcha. So you set the LOC to your desired level and then use the gain knob for the amp to control it after that.

Side note... what is the recommended gauge wiring from the amp to the sub? Im running 16 gauge currently. I was thinking 12 gauge would be better.

 

[adrianp89]

Also note I set the gain on the amp with the bass knob at MAX, so then I can only cut gain. This way you do not clip the amp. 16 gauge is more than enough for 300watts.

 

[baum]

Sorry i would bet to differ on the the wire size. On all subs i say nothing smaller than 12.

As for a LOC, remote wire debate. With the technology in amps now days and the signal sensing turn on via the high level inputs i would say go for that all day over using a loc and running a remote wire. If this was 10 years ago or a cheap no name amp i would say hell no.

 

[blackbetty14]

Sorry i would bet to differ on the the wire size. On all subs i say nothing smaller than 12.

As for a LOC, remote wire debate. With the technology in amps now days and the signal sensing turn on via the high level inputs i would say go for that all day over using a loc and running a remote wire. If this was 10 years ago or a cheap no name amp i would say hell no.

Yea I would think 12 gauge would be better. Going to see if I can get short amount of real pure copper. too much of the copper coated tin crap out there.

But how would I ensure I'm not going to get the speaker noise I got with the LOC by just using the speaker as the activation? It was pretty bad. It would turn on with the radio but after the key was turned off and I opened the door to kill the radio the amp stayed on for over 5 min and got static/noise and then you heard a loud crackle/pop as the LOC turned off. This was hooking the LOC to the speaker inputs and the yellow wire to a constant 12v (amp wiring), ground and blue REM wire from LOC to the amp. I had to find a switched 12v and run the wire all the way back to the amp and bypassed the LOC's amp turn on signal completely. How do I know thats not going to happen using the High level inputs in the amp?

 

[adrianp89]

I couldn't even tell you the number of LOCs I have installed - hundreds if not thousands - and I cannot recall once when the LOC create a noise.

Simply put - you don't know until you do it. It shouldn't though.

 

[Riccochet]

I use nothing but AudioControl LOC's when needed and have never had one inject any kind of noise in the signal. Not to say the signal feeding them hasn't been a problem.

Also run nothing but Alpine amps in any install I've done in the last 5 or so years. When Alpine released the PDX line that's been my go-to. They're tiny, throw off considerably less heat and can be mounted pretty much anywhere. Clean and powerful. I run a PDX-V9 and PDX-M6 in my truck. Both are mounted in the center console.

Any of those amps listed previously is going to work. I'd stick with name brand over some "rockville" or whatever p.o.s.

 

[adrianp89]

Pics of the amps in the center console?

 

[blackbetty14]

I use nothing but AudioControl LOC's when needed and have never had one inject any kind of noise in the signal. Not to say the signal feeding them hasn't been a problem.

Also run nothing but Alpine amps in any install I've done in the last 5 or so years. When Alpine released the PDX line that's been my go-to. They're tiny, throw off considerably less heat and can be mounted pretty much anywhere. Clean and powerful. I run a PDX-V9 and PDX-M6 in my truck. Both are mounted in the center console.

Any of those amps listed previously is going to work. I'd stick with name brand over some "rockville" or whatever p.o.s.

Noise is only present when the system is on but the volume is on mute or on zero. Also when the radio is off and key off and door open so everything off, the LOC is still keeping the amp on for like 5 min. The LOC is sending humming or crackling/static through the sub till u hear it cut out and turn off which u get a louder noise from the sub and then it's all off. I fixed that issue by not using the 4v amp turn on signal from the LOC to the amp and used a real key on only 12v source. I've heard that these LOCs can have this issue.

 

[blackbetty14]

I just had an idea! I have a good bit of dual 16 gauge speaker wire. If I doubled up, using both wires as one wire I can get thicker gauge from that. I found and online calculator and it said that dual 16 gauge is equal to a single 13 gauge wire. So I think that's what I'm going to do when I get the new AMP. Going to double up on the sub wires even tho it's working fine off a single 16 gauge.

 

[blackbetty14]

Well figured I would end this thread. I ended up finishing the install and got the new pioneer amp. Install wasn't that hard, annoying I had to mod the box to accept the larger DIA shallow sub. Thing hits pretty good and I removed the capacitor. I'm not running the remote bass boost to the dash yet and I'm using the LOC gain control to control the level of bass. Right now the thing is like 1/10 turned up and I'm good lol.