Need feedback on issue

[Brian1959]

Have a 2011 Ram 1500 4x4 with a 5.7 hemi, my MDS system failed so bought a complete kit from AMS Racing with a Diablo predator 2 tuner, Kit all installed without a any issues, runs great. 44 days later new issue, driving along cruising getting surging at pretty much all speeds and when coming to a stop it completely like someone shut the fuel off. At first i was thinking TPS but after dying 4 times this morning coming to a stop I'm now leaning more towards fuel pump. Truck has 200k miles on it when we got it but motor had been changed apparently, so it's possible the fuel pump has an equal 200k miles on it too. Any thoughts ?

 

[62Blazer]

No engine codes?
No reason to just try to guess what is going on. I would check the fuel pressure and see if it is fluctuating. A decent scan tool can get you some information or a fuel pressure gauge.

 

[Brian1959]

62Blazer, I just scanned and showing a P0440 evap code

 

[62Blazer]

62Blazer, I just scanned and showing a P0440 evap code

I wouldn't expect that code to cause any drivability issues. Did you have a check engine light? If no light that was probably just an old stored code.
Does your scanner have any live data capabilities?

 

[1999 White C5 Coupe]

62Blazer, I just scanned and showing a P0440 evap code

If your evaporative system purge solenoid is stuck “open” - it can allow fuel vapors to enter the intake system at idle, causing the engine to stall (such as when coming to a stop and lifting the accelerator pedal).

It can also cause a rough idle.

It can also cause the engine surging while driving at speed - but at light throttle (such as driving 50 mph with light throttle on level road and trying to maintain your speed).

 

[Brian1959]

62Blazer, whe the truck is fired up it runs like a brand new truck, it isn't until you get cruising whether it's through town here or on the backroads, when cruising the rpms surge as i noted and now since this morning stalls out and dies upon slowing to a stop. and it literally feels as if someone shut the fuel off. So my plan at the moment is fuel pump replacement, throttle body replacement and if needed i'll replace the purge valve too. I did do a throttle relearn haven't tested it yet, but we'll see. In the meantime 62Blazer i appreciate your input still kinda like the simplicity of my 78 ford lol!!

 

[RamDiver]

62Blazer, whe the truck is fired up it runs like a brand new truck, it isn't until you get cruising whether it's through town here or on the backroads, when cruising the rpms surge as i noted and now since this morning stalls out and dies upon slowing to a stop. and it literally feels as if someone shut the fuel off. So my plan at the moment is fuel pump replacement, throttle body replacement and if needed i'll replace the purge valve too. I did do a throttle relearn haven't tested it yet, but we'll see. In the meantime 62Blazer i appreciate your input still kinda like the simplicity of my 78 ford lol!!

That sounds like you're starting up the parts cannon before completing much diagnostic work that identifies anything specific.

.

 

[Brian1959]

That sounds like you're starting up the parts cannon before completing much diagnostic work that identifies anything specific.

.

Just a bit of a cannon lol!, after 45 yrs of turning wrenches on my stuff and military......patience has worn thin for diagnostics these days. Leave the diagnostics for young bucks! Now if i can find where i left my beer alls good! Lmao! have a good one

 

[GTyankee]

A code P0440 could mean one or more of the following has happened:
The gas cap is not installed or working properly , <--- very unlikely, Only use Mopar Cap, IF you truly need to replace it
The purge solenoid has failed
The canister is plugged and not working properly

Possible Solutions
With a P0440 OBD-II trouble code, diagnosis can be tricky at times. Here are some things to try:
Remove and reinstall the gas cap, clear the code, and drive for a day and see if the codes come back.
Inspect the EVAP system for cuts/holes in tubes/hoses
Inspect for damaged or disconnected hoses around the Evap purge solenoid
Check and/or replace the sensor Check and/or replace the purge valve
Have a professional use a smoke machine to detect leaks

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0440
Copyright OBD-Codes.com

 

[RamDiver]

Just a bit of a cannon lol!, after 45 yrs of turning wrenches on my stuff and military......patience has worn thin for diagnostics these days. Leave the diagnostics for young bucks! Now if i can find where i left my beer alls good! Lmao! have a good one

From what I usually see, it's mostly the young'ins that don't have the patience for analysis.

I worked in Telecommunications for about 35 years before retiring almost 10 years ago.

My brain won't allow me to not perform diagnostics, maybe, I need to change my medication.

.

 

[JW2 Innovations]

Inspect the EVAP system for cuts/holes in tubes/hoses

I've had a couple of vehicles where this one has had me chasing it for a bit....that and my kids vehicles forget to tighten the gas cap after filling....

 

[RamDiver]

to Ram Forum @Brian1959.

.

 

[Wild one]

my kids vehicles forget to tighten the gas cap after filling....

Or the wife

 

[metalchewy]

62Blazer, whe the truck is fired up it runs like a brand new truck, it isn't until you get cruising whether it's through town here or on the backroads, when cruising the rpms surge as i noted and now since this morning stalls out and dies upon slowing to a stop. and it literally feels as if someone shut the fuel off. So my plan at the moment is fuel pump replacement, throttle body replacement and if needed i'll replace the purge valve too. I did do a throttle relearn haven't tested it yet, but we'll see. In the meantime 62Blazer i appreciate your input still kinda like the simplicity of my 78 ford lol!!

Many years have passed since the simplicity of a mechanical fuel pump on your 78 fotd. A bit of work to replace an electric fuel pump that is working when you drive it and would have more stable pressure when you come to a stop and idle.

 

[GTyankee]

I am not positive, but on that year Dodge Ram ..

The purge valve might almost under the battery
If i recall correctly, it has an arrow imprinted on the housing, arrow points up.
BUT your year truck, the Purge valve may be as shown in the video below

Remove the purge valve, that is fairly simple.

Now try to blow through the purge valve hose fitting.
Without the electrical being plug in, you should NOT be able to blow through the Purge Valve, IF you can blow through it, there is a very good chance that the Purge Valve is bad

There are YouTube videos on purge valves

Causes and Fixes Dodge P0456 Code: Evaporative Emissions System - Small Leak Detected

How to fix a Dodge P0456 Code: Evaporative Emissions System - Small leak detectedVapor Canister Leak Detector on Amazon: https://amzn.to/3VPsvAUPossible Caus...

www.youtube.com

and another tidbit

Quick Easy Test For Stuck Open Evap Purge Valve

In this video I show a quick and easy way to test to see if an evaporative emissions purge valve is stuck open due to an internal mechanical fault. (The evap...

www.youtube.com

 

[Jeepwalker]

There's also a fuel pressure regulator down below the brake booster (behind engine).There's some good videos on it. Just type it in to Youtube search.

But you might be right on the fuel pump. They tend to start not pumping well when they get 'hot' ...which is around 15-20 minutes ..depending on the temp of the day/fuel. Harbor Freight used to sell a fuel pressure test kit ..I think they still do. I think Autozone and maybe OReilly Auto rents them for free. That would be the thing to zero in if it's really fuel pressure or not. You might try to swap the relay too in the engine compartment.

Replacing the fuel pump is NOT a particularly fun job with driveway tools ...esp with some gas in the tank. Or on a hot humid mosquito-y day...if you do a driveway job. The test however is not difficult to do. I would want a fairly high degree of certainty on the pump before I jumped into it. Speaking for myself there.

If you do it, I would replace it with a name brand pump ...myself. Best of luck. Let us know what you discover.

 

[Tominator223]

Diagnose 1st b4 ya throw parts at it. However my 04 5.7 got 230,000 miles out of the org. Fuel pump. I went to pass on the frwy & if kinda went slower when I stepped on it. So I stopped in town (6mi. From home) shut it off & it was done. I did pressure check 1st. Bought the pump at the parts store I’d stopped at got towed home . Changed it twice cause the gauge was off. So could be the fp. Or a leak around that plastic intake , that expands once warm. My 2cents

 

[62Blazer]

As several people already mentioned, I just can't recommend throwing a bunch of random parts at it without at least some diagnostic work. I would at least put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see what it looks like. Sometimes firing the parts cannon can make it even harder to track down the real issue.

 

[Hardracer]

There's also a fuel pressure regulator down below the brake booster (behind engine).There's some good videos on it. Just type it in to Youtube search.

But you might be right on the fuel pump. They tend to start not pumping well when they get 'hot' ...which is around 15-20 minutes ..depending on the temp of the day/fuel. Harbor Freight used to sell a fuel pressure test kit ..I think they still do. I think Autozone and maybe OReilly Auto rents them for free. That would be the thing to zero in if it's really fuel pressure or not. You might try to swap the relay too in the engine compartment.

Replacing the fuel pump is NOT a particularly fun job with driveway tools ...esp with some gas in the tank. Or on a hot humid mosquito-y day...if you do a driveway job. The test however is not difficult to do. I would want a fairly high degree of certainty on the pump before I jumped into it. Speaking for myself there.

If you do it, I would replace it with a name brand pump ...myself. Best of luck. Let us know what you discover.

Oh boy do I know about those hot humid skeeter days....every afternoon a friggin monsoon down pour for almost 2-3 weeks now....few other sw fl folks will back me on this.
Let me tell you..this just sucks coming up on the mid point of hurricane season ..friggin dirt road all flooded out and turned into a mine field of some deep pot holes that would dam near swallow gravedigger monster truck(of course I'm exaggerating) let alone my yard is a dam mosquito breeding ground approaching the millions(definitely not exaggerating) ...and the grass hitting the foot high mark that's gonna be a nightmare to mow when I finally can....ya I'm loving life here at the moment...thanks for reminding me.
This issue seems like a fairly easy fix from what everyone is sayin could be the culprit with a few simple diagnostic moves.

 

[Marshall]

years ago when I was running a couple old grain trucks with poor brakes ( and likely shot boosters) , made a power bleeder out of a gallon brake fluid can, back when we got tin cans,
a little 3/8" copper line , and a bit of solder , with air fitting at a couple pounds air pressure to power bleed the brakes ,feed into a spare cap on the master cylinder.

Same idea could be used for smoke, tin can and a air regulator , some hose and smoke material
cost would be a cheap as most would have most of it in the shop , if it is like mine use to be.