Noob needs help 6.4L possible lifter and cam

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Wild one

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Hi guys, I wanted to update you’s in where I’m at, haven’t gotten far, and I have a few questions. I took the parts that I had off up to Mike, Sonny got back to me and unfortunately he says he no longer gets involved with the internal work anymore. I wasn’t looking for him to do any work, but I respect that he doesn’t want to be involved. I had made sure he understood that I wanted to pay him but that was his decision. I had remembered that I had did a roofing replacement for a couple last summer and Mike is the lead tech at Beattie Dodge , I remebered now that he was the one to bring me in the shop years ago before I had met him. He had figured out a bad wire in the harness for me. Anyways I took my left bank head, parts to him, first thing he grabbed for was the lifters, he said they looked fine but that he would replace them since they were out anyways. After showing him the broken spring on cylinder 3 exhaust he grabbed the pushrod for cylinder 3 exhaust and rolled it and noticed it was slightly bent. He told me I would be fine replacing the spring and pushrod only, he did say to have a look at the cam with a bore scope or even a pen light. I don’t have a pen light but I do have a cheap mastercraft inspection camera. I took a look at left bank cam with the camera, only thing I could tell for sure was that the cam was refracting light evenly across the cam, I then took a screwdriver and very very lightly ran it across the cam through the lifter hole to see if I could feel any type of ridges which I couldn’t. Not highly scientific and I didn’t rotate the crank at all. I’m finding myself a little stuck as to what I should do, I know that the safest thing to do is just change everything and not have to worry but I’m also thinking there is nothing wrong with the cam and hate to do more work than I need to especially since I struggle every step of the way with this. Here’s a couple of thoughts I’m having that I could/should do? Rotate the cam while looking at it with the inspection camera? Good idea? A question about the lifters, should I be able to press and release the little button on the MDs lifters? On the mds lifters for cylinder 1 I can click the little buttons but in cylinder 7 no click on them. I’m also torn on what to do with the tight bank, I’m thinking for piece of mind I should be taking that head off to inspect the push rods, inspect the lifters/ basically replace them because if I take the right bank head off I will definitely replace those lifters no matter what they look like.
How long do you think you'll keep the truck Burt? If you plan on putting another 150,000 clics on it,i'd replace the cam / lifters / pushrods and springs while you're that far into it,but if you plan on getting rid of the truck in the next year or 2 and only putting maybe another 30,000 to 50,000 clics on the truck,then just replace the bad parts and button it back up,and drive it. I'd rotate the engine a couple times,so you can get a look at all sides of the cam lobes,i'd just use a normal flashlight/trouble light to shine a bit more light on the cam while you're using your boroscope. If you have the same cheap Crappy Tire boroscope as i have,a little extra light helps them out.
Don't worry about the length of the thread,it's good that you're asking questions,and getting another opinion from your mechanic guys.When you're venturing into unknown territory,getting all the help you can,is always a good thing.
Rick
 
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BurtShaver

BurtShaver

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How long do you think you'll keep the truck Burt? If you plan on putting another 150,000 clics on it,i'd replace the cam / lifters / pushrods and springs while you're that far into it,but if you plan on getting rid of the truck in the next year or 2 and only putting maybe another 30,000 to 50,000 clics on the truck,then just replace the bad parts and button it back up,and drive it. I'd rotate the engine a couple times,so you can get a look at all sides of the cam lobes,i'd just use a normal flashlight/trouble light to shine a bit more light on the cam while you're using your boroscope. If you have the same cheap Crappy Tire boroscope as i have,a little extra light helps them out.
Don't worry about the length of the thread,it's good that you're asking questions,and getting another opinion from your mechanic guys.When you're venturing into unknown territory,getting all the help you can,is always a good thing.
Rick
Damn, I really appreciate that ( your patience). I think I’m going to try and sell this truck if I can get my 2006 F350 6.0 liter diesel back up and running. I originally was going to try and make this Ram last for the rest of my life lol. The Ford was being driven daily when I parked it, it was leaking/loosing coolant from somewhere. I was working 80 hours a week at the time running my business doing disaster restoration so I just went out and bought this Ram ( a fool and his money are easily separated) instead of having my Ford fixed. Now at 50 I’ve slowed down a lot and was hoping to make this Ram last while I still poked at my duct cleaning and a few roofs a year but now I’m scared of it, and thinking my best course of action may be to sell this Ram while it still has some value and either fix my 06 Ford or buy a cheap old truck, something that if a major repair where needed I could simply junk the truck.
Anyways, my thinking now with this Ram is to take the other head off the right bank, that way I can inspect everything. My thinking is if the lifter rollers look good then the cam has to be good. Change all all 16 lifters almost as a preventative maintenance, change the pushrods since 1 is bent, change the broken valve spring or maybe change all the exhaust springs, button it up and keep the oil full and changed often. Those BUTTONS on the lifters, should I be able to click those? The 2 from cylinder one click but the 2 from cylinder 7 don’t and they are both the mds lifters
 
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BurtShaver

BurtShaver

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How long do you think you'll keep the truck Burt? If you plan on putting another 150,000 clics on it,i'd replace the cam / lifters / pushrods and springs while you're that far into it,but if you plan on getting rid of the truck in the next year or 2 and only putting maybe another 30,000 to 50,000 clics on the truck,then just replace the bad parts and button it back up,and drive it. I'd rotate the engine a couple times,so you can get a look at all sides of the cam lobes,i'd just use a normal flashlight/trouble light to shine a bit more light on the cam while you're using your boroscope. If you have the same cheap Crappy Tire boroscope as i have,a little extra light helps them out.
Don't worry about the length of the thread,it's good that you're asking questions,and getting another opinion from your mechanic guys.When you're venturing into unknown territory,getting all the help you can,is always a good thing.
Rick
So short answer to the question is I would like to keep it for 30,000 to 50,000 km more
 
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BurtShaver

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Had a good day today, it’s been pretty cold here for the last 3 days and going to stay cold for the foreseeable future so I work a bit and then sit in front of the fire so slow going. I got the right head off and the lifters out. They were the same as the other side, all rolled good with no flat spots but a bit of discolouration on the center part of the rollers. I had a look at the cam lobes with the bore scope while rotating the crank, I checked about 6 of them, I should have just checked them all while I was there and the fire was going. I will need to go back for peace of mind. They all looked roughly the same, smooth but with a little discolouration near the center of each lobe. I also checked them by lightly dragging an awl across them and they are all smooth. With the mds lifters should I be able to click the button n the side of them? Some will click and others won’t. I’m going to replace them all regardless but curious to know if there’s any way to know if they are good or not. Oh and I also dropped a 14mm 1/2” drive socket with the universal flex adapter attached to it on my head while taking the exhaust off the manifold, split my forehead1/4” just below my eyebrow and I cut my hand on the head gasket lol. Those babies are sharp. I think changing these lifters even if they are not damaged is a good idea as a preventative maintenance if for no other reason, what do you think?
 
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BurtShaver

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IMG_3012.jpegMy valve spring compressor tool came in last night. I ended up ordering one for 17.00 off Amazon. Worked like a charm.
 
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BurtShaver

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Good morning, I have all my parts ordered now. I just ordered new lifters and spring from mopar parts Canada, they should be delivered in roughly 4 or 5 days. In the meantime I’m going to go over the video’s that you sent @Wild one so some of the questions I’m going to ask I may find in the video’s. But here’s a list of things I need to know, some more important than others. 1. Antifreeze, what kind should I be getting? I will check again but the stuff that came out looks like it may have been orange at one time, I see Valvoline ZXEL1, at RA, I think it said orange dex cool but will have to double check. Actually I will find this information in owners manual, 2. ASSEMBLY LUBE , what kind should I get? I see engine tech Zmoly5 at RA but I hate to order from RA if that’s all I’m getting, it says molydendum disulfidr with 2500ppm Zink, or something from Napa? 3. The new lifters, should they be soaked overnight? In regular engine oil or? 4. Should I squirt a little engine oil down the holes in the pushrods? I was going to apply assembly lube to the cam lobes, lifter rollers, maybe a dab where the rocker meets the valve stem? The assembly lube from RA I mentioned comes with a brush just like antiseize so it must be thicker than the Permatex ultra slick from Napa which is more like a liquid. 5. PRIMING OIL PUMP, I will need to check this procedure if it should be done? I didn’t take oil pump off? 6. EGR SCREEN is dirty, I will get a picture of it, wondering if that’s normal and if I can clean it? 6. TORQUE ROCKER SHAFTS, I will look at the video’s again but I seen in another thread that each cylinder needs to be brought to TDC while torquing the rocker shaft? I will get to searching and reading myself and hopefully get some of these questions I have answered, 7. LOCTITE, no Loctite anywhere right? 8. CLEANING, a little debris got on the heads while taking them out, what’s the best way to clean them? I was thinking just some brake and parts cleaner and compressed air? with some new cardboard beneath while cleaning and repeat? 9. GASKETS, all gaskets go on dry? They all seemed dry when I was taking them off….?
IMG_3024.png
 
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BurtShaver

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I’ve been looking up different assembly lubes and oil additives for break in. What I’m seeeing is that ZDDP is pretty important. I’ve read it can be bad for the Cat but have also read many have said they have ran extra zinc and never an issue with cat, I didn’t read any posts that said they had an issue. I have Lucas oil additive 10063 in my cart, says it increases zinc and I have Lucas 10153 assembly line in my cart as well, says it contains zinc and moly. I was going to use a little artists brush to coat the cam lobes. I was going to get a conventional engine oil for the first 1000km. Does this sound right? Thank you
 

Wild one

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I’ve been looking up different assembly lubes and oil additives for break in. What I’m seeeing is that ZDDP is pretty important. I’ve read it can be bad for the Cat but have also read many have said they have ran extra zinc and never an issue with cat, I didn’t read any posts that said they had an issue. I have Lucas oil additive 10063 in my cart, says it increases zinc and I have Lucas 10153 assembly line in my cart as well, says it contains zinc and moly. I was going to use a little artists brush to coat the cam lobes. I was going to get a conventional engine oil for the first 1000km. Does this sound right? Thank you
Do one oil change with cheap oil/filter before you start it,then run a cheap oil/filter for about 100 clics and change it again,then switch over to good oil and filter Burt.Don't go a 1,000 clics on the first change.
Just for the record a roller cam doesn't require a break-in period like the old flat tappet cams did,as soon as it's running a roller cam is broke in.
All you need to worry about is getting all the left over crud that made it into the oilpan from doing the cam/lifters ,out of the oilpan
 
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BurtShaver

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Do one oil change with cheap oil/filter before you start it,then run a cheap oil/filter for about 100 clics and change it again,then switch over to good oil and filter Burt.Don't go a 1,000 clics on the first change.
Thank you, I will do that. Do you see any issue with me using the Lucas break in oil that has added zinc and running a mineral oil for that 100km?
 
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BurtShaver

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I was out today looking at a job, fellow I was talking to said he had a 23 or 24 Ram and that it was the last year for the Hemi, REALLY? I always thought it was there flagship engine
 
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BurtShaver

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IMG_3045.pngIMG_3042.pngParts should be all in this Monday or Tuesday, I’ve spent a bit of time this weekend going over different things so I have everything in one spot. Just have a couple of quick questions. This egr pipe, can I clean it with brake and parts cleaner or should I get some egr cleaner? And I’m a little worried about working in the garage I’m working in, even with the wood stove it never gets warm in there, basically just keeps me out of the elements and takes a bit of the chill off. Should I be worried putting everything back together in these colder temperatures as far as torque is concerned? When I’ve rebuilt snowmobile engines I have always gotten my shop to 20 degrees Celsius a day or so before I start putting it together but that’s not possible where I’m working in this.
 

Wild one

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View attachment 558459View attachment 558460Parts should be all in this Monday or Tuesday, I’ve spent a bit of time this weekend going over different things so I have everything in one spot. Just have a couple of quick questions. This egr pipe, can I clean it with brake and parts cleaner or should I get some egr cleaner? And I’m a little worried about working in the garage I’m working in, even with the wood stove it never gets warm in there, basically just keeps me out of the elements and takes a bit of the chill off. Should I be worried putting everything back together in these colder temperatures as far as torque is concerned? When I’ve rebuilt snowmobile engines I have always gotten my shop to 20 degrees Celsius a day or so before I start putting it together but that’s not possible where I’m working in this.
EGR cleaner in a spraybomb works good to soften up carbon. As long as you're not freezing to death working on the truck,you should be okay.I've had to repair trucks in the bush at -40 and as long as i can stay warm enough not to freeze to death,i've never worried about putting them back together,lol
 
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BurtShaver

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EGR cleaner in a spraybomb works good to soften up carbon. As long as you're not freezing to death working on the truck,you should be okay.I've had to repair trucks in the bush at -40 and as long as i can stay warm enough not to freeze to death,i've never worried about putting them back together,lol
Thanks Rick, I’m not worried about being cold, I was worried about torquing things down in that temperature, whether it would be accurate. I have always thought temperature should be about 20 Celsius to get a proper torque
 

Wild one

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Thanks Rick, I’m not worried about being cold, I was worried about torquing things down in that temperature, whether it would be accurate. I have always thought temperature should be about 20 Celsius to get a proper torque
It's nice to be warm,but i've never really worried about torquing things down in the cold. Is the shop above freezing,if it is,you're good to go. You could pick up one of these propane heaters or a kerosene heater to give you more heat if you're worried about the temp Burt.


 
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BurtShaver

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It's nice to be warm,but i've never really worried about torquing things down in the cold. Is the shop above freezing,if it is,you're good to go. You could pick up one of these propane heaters or a kerosene heater to give you more heat if you're worried about the temp Burt.

I’m sure it will be fine, I just wanted to check to be sure.
 
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