Noob needs help 6.4L possible lifter and cam

[BurtShaver]

I've never had any issues with the sand in my 3 Mopars,but i change thermostats twice a year,every spring and fall,and all 3 get refilled with new coolant each time,and i'm wondering if that's saving my rear

They all seem to have one issue or another. I bet your maintenance schedule is saving your butt

 

[Wild one]

They all seem to have one issue or another. I bet your maintenance schedule is saving your butt

I'm starting to think swapping thermostats between summer and winter sure isn't hurting things

 

[BurtShaver]

Things didn’t go so well today, putting the right bank cylinder head back on and a cable and a bracket at the front of the head got caught between the head and the block. I couldn’t chance just torquing the head down in case the bracket had crimped or damaged the new gasket and while taking the head back off the new gasket got completely destroyed. I find the weight and the location of the head in the engine bay difficult to deal with. Here’s a photo of myself in the right and my son in law Blake minutes before it all went wrong lol. Getting a new gasket ordered today. Next time I’m going to tie back that bracket and cable

 

[Sherman Bird]

That's not a bad price for resurfacing ,did he say if that also included a cleaning and magnaflux job to check for cracks.
Use Remflex 6022 exhaust gaskets.
Use an impact gun to pull the exhaust bolts,if they break,they break and you'll have to deal with them then,but you might get lucky and they all come out

If you have a brick and mortar speed shop close,odds are they'll have the Remflex gaskets in stock,if not gouge and screw Canuck amazon has them.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Things didn’t go so well today, putting the right bank cylinder head back on and a cable and a bracket at the front of the head got caught between the head and the block. I couldn’t chance just torquing the head down in case the bracket had crimped or damaged the new gasket and while taking the head back off the new gasket got completely destroyed. I find the weight and the location of the head in the engine bay difficult to deal with. View attachment 559337Here’s a photo of myself in the right and my son in law Blake minutes before it all went wrong lol. Getting a new gasket ordered today. Next time I’m going to tie back that bracket and cable

I use my engine hoist for engines AND cylinder heads! That getting old crap, dontcha know!

 

[Wild one]

Sometimes all these engines need is few choice words, usually they straighten up and fly right after that.

I swear you gotta treat them like a women,touch/rub them /tell them how good they are ,and you love them etc.
I'm not above rubbing their dashes and telling them they did a good job today

 

[BurtShaver]

I swear you gotta treat them like a women,touch/rub them /tell them how good they are ,and you love them etc.
I'm not above rubbing their dashes and telling them they did a good job today

I’m going to give that a try, she’s probably pretty upset with me now, I had some choice words for her but I will see if I can smooth things over

 

[Wild one]

I’m going to give that a try, she’s probably pretty upset with me now, I had some choice words for her but I will see if I can smooth things over

I swear you pile enough steel and plastic together and it develops a personality that you gotta stay on the good side of,if you want them to treat you good

 

[BurtShaver]

While you're that far into the engine,nows the time to flush the heater core Burt,it's easy to do now ,and with that amount of crud in the cooling passages it's probably wise to flush the heater core

Do you have any recommendations on products to flush the heater core with? Online I see a lot of people using CLR. I just want to be sure that’s there’s no chance of damaging anything with whatever product I use

 

[GTyankee]

With CLR, you do not want to leave it in the system for very long.
You also want to really flush the system, to dilute the CLR down to close to zero.

Personally, i think that i would only have the CLR going through the HVAC Heater Core.
I would not want it in the Radiator, but that is just my thoughts

 

[Wild one]

Do you have any recommendations on products to flush the heater core with? Online I see a lot of people using CLR. I just want to be sure that’s there’s no chance of damaging anything with whatever product I use

CLR seems to be the go to for cleaning a heater core these days,as GT states make sure you do a flush with water afterwards to dilute any residual CLR left in the core.

 

[Sherman Bird]

CLR seems to be the go to for cleaning a heater core these days,as GT states make sure you do a flush with water afterwards to dilute any residual CLR left in the core.

I just used CLR for the heater core in this 2002 Ram 1500 4.7L which I've rebuilt the 45RFE and am on the downhill slope of the engine replacement. I wanted to perform the flush BEFORE installing the reman engine.

I let the CLR soak inside the core for about 45 minutes to an hour and then douched the core with clean water. I repeated this 3 times total. The amount of particulate and oil coming out was remarkable. Interestingly, I left the worst (initial) of this nastiness in it's own bucket to show the customer when he would be by to check the progress. Funny phenomena, though, most of the crap, including the oil, had been emulsified/ dissolved! I then rigged up my R134 A/C gauges to the hoses and pulled a vacuum.... and that vacuum held overnight.

 

[BurtShaver]

I use my engine hoist for engines AND cylinder heads! That getting old crap, dontcha know!

I’m considering using the engine hoist to put the heads in, there’s just to many variables trying to put them in and take them out without damaging anything, I find the mls gasket always seems to grab into both the head and the block causing havoc. How do you secure the head to the hoist?

 

[BurtShaver]

I’ve just been wasting a little time looking online here tonight and I’m coming across a lot of conflicting information on whether TTY head bolts can be re used or not, but I’ve definitely seen enough posts saying absolutely not to reuse them so my question is, would these Fel-Pro ones from Rock Auto be ok to use? I’ve seen lots using ARP but they are like 500.00 which is way more than I want to spend. One thing I notice about the Fel-Pro ones is that the smaller bolts are all bolts where as the original smaller bolts 3 on one bank and 2 on the right bank are studs and not bolts. Could I just reuse the smaller ones along with the new Fel-Pro larger head bolts? I don’t believe the smaller ones are TTY,

 

[BurtShaver]

5.7 Hemi Head Bolts, Can They be Reused? - Mongrels Garage

5.7 Hemi Head Bolts, can they be reused? In this video we answer that question. #mopar #hemi #dodge #ram #ramtrucks Mongrel's Garage - https://www.instagram...

www.youtube.com

 

[BurtShaver]

I went ahead and ordered the new cylinder head bolts for peace of mind. I was doing some research trying to figure out this torque to yield business,I definitely don’t completely understand it, but I believe it’s basically if a bolt has been torqued to its maximum yield to a point it will not return to its original length then it has been torqued to yield. No difference in TTY bolts and torque to angle bolts, or bolts that are just torqued, basically just if a bolt is torqued to its maximum and doesn’t return to shape then it’s been torqued to yield. That’s my basic understanding of it anyways and I would have difficulty with the fact of losing a head gasket if I hadn’t purchased the new bolts.

 

[BurtShaver]

This is getting embarrassing, I continue not to notice things until after I’ve placed an order. Went out to my shop tonight to make sure the exhaust manifold heat shields were correct t and noticed a broken manifold stud so I ordered those Remflex 6022 gaskets you posted the link to and new Dorman manifold studs. When it comes to removing that broken stud, any advice? I know you had mentioned using the impact which I will. But on the broken one, what would you recommend? I was thinking of welding a head to the stud? Should I use heat on any of the studs or no?

 

[Wild one]

This is getting embarrassing, I continue not to notice things until after I’ve placed an order. Went out to my shop tonight to make sure the exhaust manifold heat shields were correct t and noticed a broken manifold stud so I ordered those Remflex 6022 gaskets you posted the link to and new Dorman manifold studs. When it comes to removing that broken stud, any advice? I know you had mentioned using the impact which I will. But on the broken one, what would you recommend? I was thinking of welding a head to the stud? Should I use heat on any of the studs or no?

Weld a washer and nut to the broken bolt Burt,the heads aluminium and you won't hurt it by welding to a steel stud.Try and wire brush the end of the stud if possible so your weld sticks to it better

 

[BurtShaver]

Weld a washer and nut to the broken bolt Burt,the heads aluminium and you won't hurt it by welding to a steel stud.Try and wire brush the end of the stud if possible so your weld sticks to it better

Stupid question Rick, what is the washer for? Also would buying some of that freeze stuff in a can help? Maybe heat the head up around the stud with a hair dryer or heat gun and freeze the bolt?

 

[Wild one]

Stupid question Rick, what is the washer for? Also would buying some of that freeze stuff in a can help? Maybe heat the head up around the stud with a hair dryer or heat gun and freeze the bolt?

Easier to get the initial weld build-up to stick to a washer,then you weld the nut to the washer.Usually the heat from welding is all you need,as once the studs broke there's no tension on the threads and they usually back out pretty easy.
If there's any part of the stud sticking out of the head you can try grabbing onto it with a set of vise grips, i've removed a few studs that broke off above the surface with just a pair of vise grips,if it's broke flush or below proud of the head,then you need to weld a washer/nut to it