Noob needs help 6.4L possible lifter and cam

[BurtShaver]

I keep forgetting your truck is a 3/4 ton,lol.If you don't have any extra hoses laying around it might just be capped off.Look the rubber cap over close,if it's been on the engine for almost 10 years,you should be able to tell,just by squeezing it and looking for cracks,a new rubber cap will be soft and pliable and when you squeeze it,there won't be any weather check cracking

Thank you, I will start from the brake booster but I’m almost positive now that it was capped. I will have a good look though

 

[BurtShaver]

Going to be starting it tomorrow, just need to fill it with oil and coolant, do u need to bleed the cooling system or can I fill the radiator, fill the overflow jug and then add coolant once the thermostat has opened. Also I’ve seen posted on other threads that by pushing the gas pedal to the floor it will disable the fuel pump allowing the oil pump to circulate oil before initial start, I didn’t have the oil pump so not sure if it’s necessary and also wondering if it actually matters whether you crank the motor over at lower rpm’s without starting it or if you just start it, wouldn’t it still be running dry both ways? I’m thinking it you crank it over without starting at 500 rpm’s for 3 minutes or start it within 2 minute at 1500 rpm’s wouldn’t it being doing the same number of revolutions until the oil was circulated? Anything else I’m forgetting?

 

[Wild one]

Going to be starting it tomorrow, just need to fill it with oil and coolant, do u need to bleed the cooling system or can I fill the radiator, fill the overflow jug and then add coolant once the thermostat has opened. Also I’ve seen posted on other threads that by pushing the gas pedal to the floor it will disable the fuel pump allowing the oil pump to circulate oil before initial start, I didn’t have the oil pump so not sure if it’s necessary and also wondering if it actually matters whether you crank the motor over at lower rpm’s without starting it or if you just start it, wouldn’t it still be running dry both ways? I’m thinking it you crank it over without starting at 500 rpm’s for 3 minutes or start it within 2 minute at 1500 rpm’s wouldn’t it being doing the same number of revolutions until the oil was circulated? Anything else I’m forgetting?

If you haven't installed the thermostat yet,just fill it up till it starts to run out the thermostat hole,quite often i put the thermostat in place,and hold it there,then top it up some more till antifreeze runs out the bleed hole on the thermostat.Then finish topping it off once the thermostat opens.It helps to have the front up on ramps when you're filling it up with coolant.
Make sure you turn it over by hand several revolutions before you attempt to turn it over on the starter,that way if anything is binding,you'll feel it,before it bends anything.
I've never seen any advantage to spinning it over on the starter to build oil pressure,to me it's going to make oil pressure faster if it starts

 

[BurtShaver]

If you haven't installed the thermostat yet,just fill it up till it starts to run out the thermostat hole,quite often i put the thermostat in place,and hold it there,then top it up some more till antifreeze runs out the bleed hole on the thermostat.Then finish topping it off once the thermostat opens.It helps to have the front up on ramps when you're filling it up with coolant.
Make sure you turn it over by hand several revolutions before you attempt to turn it over on the starter,that way if anything is binding,you'll feel it,before it bends anything.
I've never seen any advantage to spinning it over on the starter to build oil pressure,to me it's going to make oil pressure faster if it starts

I turned it over by hand after the rocker shafts were installed, turn d smoothly, I never had the thermostat off, am I ok to just fill up the rad and coolant bottle, start it and add coolant once the thermostat opens or is there a bleed screw somewhere that I should open till coolant comes out of it?

 

[Wild one]

I turned it over by hand after the rocker shafts were installed, turn d smoothly, I never had the thermostat off, am I ok to just fill up the rad and coolant bottle, start it and add coolant once the thermostat opens or is there a bleed screw somewhere that I should open till coolant comes out of it?

Post a pic of your timing cover Burt,as some 6.4's have a bleed screw and some have a hose installed where the earlier 6.4's had a bleed screw,so a pic of your timing cover will help

 

[BurtShaver]

Post a pic of your timing cover Burt,as some 6.4's have a bleed screw and some have a hose installed where the earlier 6.4's had a bleed screw,so a pic of your timing cover will help

I will have a Quick Look through my pis tonight but may have to wait till tomorrow to grab that picture, if I can, pretty tight again in there with everything back together, can I do any damage by only filling the rad and overflow jug and then adding more after thermostat opens? I can park the truck in an incline, but will need to drive it to one if it in fact runs.

 

[Wild one]

I will have a Quick Look through my pis tonight but may have to wait till tomorrow to grab that picture, if I can, pretty tight again in there with everything back together, can I do any damage by only filling the rad and overflow jug and then adding more after thermostat opens? I can park the truck in an incline, but will need to drive it to one if it in fact runs.

Loosen the 2 13mm bolts on the thermostat housing ,when coolant starts to run out,tighten them back up,and you'll be okay to start it and drive it where your ramps are

 

[BurtShaver]

Well I have good news and bad news, the bad news is it’s leaking oil, the good news is it runs, it runs beautifully, no tick even upon initial start up and the oil leak is coming from the left bank valve cover, so I’m pretty happy overall. In hindsight I wouldn’t have changed the valve cover gaskets, the new one’s fall out when you turn them upside down and there was nothing wrong with the old one’s but yeah overall I’m pretty darn happy. I’m going to loosen that left bank valve cover off now, just need to give the garage a bit for the fumes to go away first

 

[BurtShaver]

All seems to be well, I brought the truck home, runs great, I would say quieter than before, probably due to the broken exhaust manifold bolts. A little bit of smoke but thats form the valve cover leaking, it leaked out about a quarter of a litre and it ran over the exhaust manifold. Just going to keep an eye on the coolant over the next few days and if it holds its level then I’m home free. Can’t thank everyone who helped me out here enough . Big thank you to @Wild one, couldn’t have done it without out your help, I see I forgot to put the center hub cap on.

 

[huntergreen]

Great to hear !

 

[White six four]

Awesome!! Great job man!

 

[BurtShaver]

Thanks guys

 

[Wild one]

Awright way to go Burt,it's nice to actually see a pic of the truck,lol.
Hopefully the oil leak is nothing serious.

 

[BurtShaver]

Awright way to go Burt,it's nice to actually see a pic of the truck,lol.
Hopefully the oil leak is nothing serious.

Thanks Rick, the oil was leaking from the valve cover, I took the coil packs off, took the bolts out of the valve cover and was able to lift the cover up an inch or so and get the gasket back in place, it’s not leaking now.

 

[BurtShaver]

I’ve earned a day out on the snowmobile tomorrow. lol. I’m going to really enjoy myself tomorrow

 

[UncleGunns]

It seems to be more of an issue with the later coils that use the resistors,personally it makes me wonder if the resistors are creating more heat,but you'd think if so the heat should create less corrosion,but it's all i can come up with.But then again i've probably done more of the later coils then i have the earlier coils,as i only started cleaning up the contact points about 8 years ago,when i stumbled into a badly corroded coil on my truck
The earlier coils didn't use the resistors,and employed a longer spring ,so i'm not sure there's much basis to your theory about coil ringing.
I switched both the truck and Challenger back to the earlier boots,but i also run a copper plug in both,and i have to admit,i haven't ran into any downsides to the earlier boots on the later coils.i'd almost think the earlier boots might work even better with irridium plugs then they do with copper plugs

Resisters are there for a reason. That's what the MFG spent millions on engineering for. Pulling the resistors introduces extra current to the plugs - shorter lifespan. Excessive heat buildup (from overdriving current because of removed resistors) can break down the coils earlier, and don't forget that the coils are wired directly back to the PCM. The PCM is designed to run with coils with a certain primary-side resistance. That resistance can change when you change the load on the secondary winding. Worst case - you cook coils and PCM, and maybe even other sensors that share the 5VDC and ground loops.

Dissimilar metals - inside the coil and the resistor tips and springs and spark plug tips... Galvanic reaction can cause accelerated corrosion. Green = copper. Use dielectric grease on all the contact points and it can greatly reduce exposure to electrolytes (humidity/ water) and will reduce the corrosive effects.

 

[Wild one]

Resisters are there for a reason. That's what the MFG spent millions on engineering for. Pulling the resistors introduces extra current to the plugs - shorter lifespan. Excessive heat buildup (from overdriving current because of removed resistors) can break down the coils earlier, and don't forget that the coils are wired directly back to the PCM. The PCM is designed to run with coils with a certain primary-side resistance. That resistance can change when you change the load on the secondary winding. Worst case - you cook coils and PCM, and maybe even other sensors that share the 5VDC and ground loops.

Dissimilar metals - inside the coil and the resistor tips and springs and spark plug tips... Galvanic reaction can cause accelerated corrosion. Green = copper. Use dielectric grease on all the contact points and it can greatly reduce exposure to electrolytes (humidity/ water) and will reduce the corrosive effects.

So much wrong info in your post .They didn't start using the resistors until 2016,so how do you explain the fact coils didn't die prior to 16. The resistors are there to reduce rfi,and alot of plugs are already a resistor plug,so all your doing is putting more load on the coil.If you buy new boots and springs alot of the NGK / AC Delco boots have done away with the resistors,as it's just another contact point to corrode.
The purpose of the capacitors on both engine banks is to reduce the upwards of 10,000+ instantious voltage spike when the field in the coils collapses
Explain how reducing the load on the coils causes them to break down faster or cooks the pcm.When the secondary windings are taking longer to charge due to the resistors,they also create more internal heat,which breaks down the windings insulation that much faster
If you're using off the shelf dielectric grease it's an insulator,and isn't doing your ignition system any benefit.Yes you can buy electrically condusive greases,but the good ones aren't cheap. No automotive coil has ever used dielectric grease from a manufacture'r,not sure where you heard that one
The corrosion that shows up inside the boots between the spring and coil contact isn't due to dissimiliar metal corrosion.The screw head and spring are both steel,there is no copper or aluminium between the coil and spring or on the sparkplugs contact point.



"What is dielectric grease? Despite the fact it has "electric" right there in the name, it's a fairly common misconception that dielectric grease is capable of conducting electricity. In actual fact, dielectric grease is an insulator and doesn't conduct electricity.Mar 19, 2021"