Oil Filter Thread

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Burla

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well I guess I will add transmsion filters to the thread.

Number One, I do recomend the metal thread upgrade, it is a little loose until tight which is worrysome, but when tightened to transmsion it aint going nowhere. The plastic is garbage.

46961674101_35f70c459d_c.jpg


The sump filter is the star of the show, synthetic and can possibly last a lifetime, I wish they didn't even have a spin on filter. The sump filter does have a seal, make sure it is in place when you put sump filter back, it fits in very tight.

46256419055_1988541e45_c.jpg

The spin on filter is garbage, but you need it installed for line pressure. I'd say 20k miles at best, eventhough transmsions don't get as hot, the heat cycles still kill this filter. We have not found a synthetic replacement as of yet, but we worry about putting a painted filter here. Even the wrong pan could cause paint flakes and kill the trans. A lot of this post was collective info, rlk, h395 and u&a. Corey and Kyle seam less sure of the metal thread, but I tell you mine is gorilla tight and I have no worries.

47118549492_bdecc27466_c.jpg
 
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We all suggest Mopar filters at this point, if you dont have a bypass, line pressure will suffer when that spin on filter goes stiff. Corey just changed filters in his, and it shifts better, he reused same fluid, so figure that out.
 

ripping r

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well I guess I will add transmsion filters to the thread.

Number One, I do recomend the metal thread upgrade, it is a little loose until tight which is worrysome, but when tightened to transmsion it aint going nowhere. The plastic is garbage.

46961674101_35f70c459d_c.jpg


The sump filter is the star of the show, synthetic and can possibly last a lifetime, I wish they didn't even have a spin on filter. The sump filter does have a seal, make sure it is in place when you put sump filter back, it fits in very tight.

46256419055_1988541e45_c.jpg

The spin on filter is garbage, but you need it installed for line pressure. I'd say 20k miles at best, eventhough transmsions don't get as hot, the heat cycles still kill this filter. We have not found a synthetic replacement as of yet, but we worry about putting a painted filter here. Even the wrong pan could cause paint flakes and kill the trans. A lot of this post was collective info, rlk, h395 and u&a. Corey and Kyle seam less sure of the metal thread, but I tell you mine is gorilla tight and I have no worries.

47118549492_bdecc27466_c.jpg
where does one get the metal part?
 
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where does one get the metal part?

ebay 19 bucks.

The problem with the plastic one is if you over tighten and don't back check it, your transmsion is done, as a member here knows. Or under tighten the fluid leaves the top of the filter, I believe that is what the dealer said caused the tranny to fail. With the metal you can tighten the F out of it and have no worries, except maybe removal :)

I just used this for filter removal.

SetRatioSize600550-PWP10_.jpg
 

ripping r

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ebay 19 bucks.

The problem with the plastic one is if you over tighten and don't back check it, your transmsion is done, as a member here knows. Or under tighten the fluid leaves the top of the filter, I believe that is what the dealer said caused the tranny to fail. With the metal you can tighten the F out of it and have no worries, except maybe removal :)

I just used this for filter removal.

SetRatioSize600550-PWP10_.jpg
Thank you. I only have 4100 miles. but ill buy this for when i do the first service.I did not know the spin on is inside either. been looking for it everytime im under the truck.
 
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dont loose it :)
 

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well I guess I will add transmsion filters to the thread.

Number One, I do recomend the metal thread upgrade, it is a little loose until tight which is worrysome, but when tightened to transmsion it aint going nowhere. The plastic is garbage.

46961674101_35f70c459d_c.jpg


The sump filter is the star of the show, synthetic and can possibly last a lifetime, I wish they didn't even have a spin on filter. The sump filter does have a seal, make sure it is in place when you put sump filter back, it fits in very tight.

46256419055_1988541e45_c.jpg

The spin on filter is garbage, but you need it installed for line pressure. I'd say 20k miles at best, eventhough transmsions don't get as hot, the heat cycles still kill this filter. We have not found a synthetic replacement as of yet, but we worry about putting a painted filter here. Even the wrong pan could cause paint flakes and kill the trans. A lot of this post was collective info, rlk, h395 and u&a. Corey and Kyle seam less sure of the metal thread, but I tell you mine is gorilla tight and I have no worries.

47118549492_bdecc27466_c.jpg

Wait wut? I thought the wix, royal purple, etc synthetic spin on filters for the transmission were good to go? I must have missed something.


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The thread upgrades are loose, but tight at the end. However, u&a bought a bunch of threads for forum members but all sold out. The transmision threads comes with the filters, you need a thread upgrade to use them. PM u&a or read syn thread last 50 pages for more info. research 45RFE, 545RFE, 66RFE, 68RFE DNJ Billet Steel Thread Adapter with a hex drive in the middle, almost a necesary item for the rfe anyway you look at it. u&a (kyle) has more info, I lost the link.

we have a list if filters that will work if you knock off the paint, but you need a thread adapter.
 

JasonK94Z

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The thread upgrades are loose, but tight at the end. However, u&a bought a bunch of threads for forum members but all sold out. The transmision threads comes with the filters, you need a thread upgrade to use them. PM u&a or read syn thread last 50 pages for more info. research 45RFE, 545RFE, 66RFE, 68RFE DNJ Billet Steel Thread Adapter with a hex drive in the middle, almost a necesary item for the rfe anyway you look at it. u&a (kyle) has more info, I lost the link.

we have a list if filters that will work if you knock off the paint, but you need a thread adapter.

Thank you for the clarification.


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For the First time I seen the Champion oil filter in stores. PepBoys had an entire wall of them. Check out the 12 (yes 12) inlet holes on this oil filter. This one is the smaller oil filter for the 6.4 and 5.7 Hemi. Internally it has the cheese grader center tube and the plunger style bypass valve. Base plate is the good one piece design. Paid $7.94 out the door. This looks promising!

9FDE08CE-49C1-4A02-8736-4D95CA393923.jpeg

33C37D71-74DE-4E6A-B8C5-1B650C498B92.jpeg

D098217B-01B9-4B68-9ABA-9AE4964769A6.jpeg

https://www.championautoparts.com/Products/Car-Filters.html
 
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Looks great, maybe we are starting to understand why RP is getting away from the business, something is going on with Champ that will **** off some folks. If Champ sells the same filter much cheaper, that would **** of all the people who use them to build their filters.

I don't like this from description...
  • High-strength filter media for harsh driving conditions and longer change intervals
So Champ needs to clarify, it is either spun microglass or it isn't. I don't care who sells me the filter, if that is spun micro glass that would be badass. If it isn't spun micro glass maybe it will be in the future, would be nice. I like the packaging, lol. The champion is here. I assumed champ labs, maybe it isn't?
 

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Looks great, maybe we are starting to understand why RP is getting away from the business, something is going on with Champ that will **** off some folks. If Champ sells the same filter much cheaper, that would **** of all the people who use them to build their filters.

I don't like this from description...
  • High-strength filter media for harsh driving conditions and longer change intervals
So Champ needs to clarify, it is either spun microglass or it isn't. I don't care who sells me the filter, if that is spun micro glass that would be badass. If it isn't spun micro glass maybe it will be in the future, would be nice.
It a blended filter media!

https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/pa...d=CH&pNum=COS10060&partType=Engine Oil Filter
 
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