Oil temp waaaay to high

[Wild one]

Interesting .. who doesn't run a synthetic oil?
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/engine-oil-temperature/

I think in a Hemi those oil temps would lead to more cam/lifter issues Crash,maybe in a small block Chevy they're okay,but running oil at those temps means the oil film between moving parts is getting mighty thin,and a Hemi already stresses the oil enough as it is,let alone raising the oil temp to a constant 230.Remember if it's not a small block Chevy or LS motor Hotrod knows squat about an engine,lol. That article has been around for years,didn't really believe it back in 13 when they had it in the magazine,don't really believe it much 7 years later,lol

 

[pacofortacos]

Oil temps over 212 are needed, 220 is optimum. You do need to flash that moisture off.
I see low 220's under normal driving and 240-250 towing my boat at 70 mph - esp. through the hills.

 

[Wild one]

Oil temps over 212 are needed, 220 is optimum. You do need to flash that moisture off.
I see low 220's under normal driving and 240-250 towing my boat at 70 mph - esp. through the hills.

Moisture evaporates at a lot lower temp then 212,boiling point at 3,000 ft altitude is more around 200f.That's a myth about needing oil temps of 212 to get rid of moisture.Prime example being that puddle of water on your driveway after a rain,it sure as hell doesn't need 212F to disappear does it,lol

 

[pacofortacos]

That's evaporation, not boiling it off. Water doesn't evaporate in the oil pan quite as easily since the oil floats on top of the water.
And yes it is being mixed around when the engine is running, but it still needs to be in the vapor stage to be removed by the PCV system.

That's one reason why short trips are hard on the oil, it allows acids to build up vs. getting rid of the moisture. Acids are cause by condensation as well as oil oxidation and combustion by products - of which water is one.

The altitude does help, but what about the sea level folks?

 

[Wild one]

That's evaporation, not boiling it off. Water doesn't evaporate in the oil pan quite as easily since the oil floats on top of the water.
And yes it is being mixed around when the engine is running, but it still needs to be in the vapor stage to be removed by the PCV system.

That's one reason why short trips are hard on the oil, it allows acids to build up vs. getting rid of the moisture. As well as oil oxidation and combustion by products - of which water is one.

The altitude does help, but what about the sea level folks?

Hate to say anything,but boiling it off and evaporation are one and the same. I like my cam and lifters to have a bit thicker oil film in my Hemi,you run your oil temps up there if you want,me i'll run them a bit lower if I can,and i'll lay money the cam and lifters live longer with the cooler oil temps.All those tests are done on a small block Chevy or LS motor,i've yet to see one done on a hemi,or done for a long term stretch of time of a 100,000 miles or more to see if it affects cam/lifter or bearing life adversely.

 

[crazykid1994]

The reason the cars use 0w40 vs the 5w20 is to maintain a thicker oil when the oil reaches a higher temp. I’m on a few FB pages and there are some issues in the cars but not as many failures as trucks. Running a thicker oil or running your oil at a lower temp to keep the oil slightly thicker does not seem like a bad idea. And mds still kicks on in my truck with the 5w30 oil and running 195° oil temps. My pressure sits around 55psi cruising around town and 43-45 psi idle. Stock I had 37psi idle and 50psi cruising with 5w30 and at this point I can’t even remember what my oil psi was with 5w20 stock. I know it was lower than the 5w30.
Edit: and I’ve had my oil tested by black stone after 1 year/7500 miles and they told me everything looked good. Acid was low. Water was low. Oil life was still between 2 and 3. I live in south Florida where it’s always humid and muggy out and constantly raining this time of year. My catch can is always half full after 2000 miles. Same as when I was stock.

 

[69GWC]

..

 

[RedSRT4Me]

I'll weigh in on my experience. Hottest my oil temps have hit loaded towing was 260-270. That definitely had me nervous but I was towing a full loaded moving trailer/truck 2000 miles from WA to AZ.

It was up to 110 outside when we got into Neveda/Arizona areas.

I've never removed my grill shutters and don't plan to unless an intercooler occupies the space. FCA put them there for a reason. I use that reason to bring the truck up to temp quickly. I avoid just idling the truck if I can help it.

I've never switched from 5w20 mobil 1. I also started using Ceratec which is a moly additive when I first learned of Hemi lifters having a problem. Once in a blue moon the lifters will let me know they are still there but 99% the engine is as quiet as can be.

Hopefully my experience will help out the next guy or girl. Enjoy the mods!

 

[pacofortacos]

Hate to say anything,but boiling it off and evaporation are one and the same. I like my cam and lifters to have a bit thicker oil film in my Hemi,you run your oil temps up there if you want,me i'll run them a bit lower if I can,and i'll lay money the cam and lifters live longer with the cooler oil temps.All those tests are done on a small block Chevy or LS motor,i've yet to see one done on a hemi,or done for a long term stretch of time of a 100,000 miles or more to see if it affects cam/lifter or bearing life adversely.

They really aren't the same thing but that is neither here nor there.

The factory has to take into account people who do not drive their truck long or hard - many are just run very short distances and very low rpm. The only way to get rid of the condensation under those circumstances is to run the oil nice and warm whenever you can.
We have all seen the posts where people complain they only are getting 10 mpg, then you find out that they drive 3 miles to work at slow speeds and shut the engine off.

For high performance longevity, keeping the oil cooler (so it stays a bit thicker) or running a bit thicker oil is not a bad idea. Especially if your driving conditions take advantage of it.

 

[Michael Jones]

My current temp on oil is 220 when my coolant is 202

 

[Wild one]

They really aren't the same thing but that is neither here nor there.

The factory has to take into account people who do not drive their truck long or hard - many are just run very short distances and very low rpm. The only way to get rid of the condensation under those circumstances is to run the oil nice and warm whenever you can.
We have all seen the posts where people complain they only are getting 10 mpg, then you find out that they drive 3 miles to work at slow speeds and shut the engine off.

For high performance longevity, keeping the oil cooler (so it stays a bit thicker) or running a bit thicker oil is not a bad idea. Especially if your driving conditions take advantage of it.

Just by paying attention to the cam/lifter issues,it seems hot oil and a light oil ,like 5W-20 contribute to cam and lifter failures way more then a cooler oil temp and thicker oil do.Gonna have to say I disagree with your oil temp theories,you run your oil temps high if you want,me i'll try and keep my oil temps under 200F,and i'll lay odds the cam in my truck lives a happier life then your cam,plus the fact I like a thicker oil film between the upper half of the rod bearings and crank to offset the loads imparted to the upper rod bearings every time the plug fires and forces the piston down. You're not taking into account the loads imparted to the crank and rod bearings with a thinner oil film.So we'll have to agree to disagree on this,as I don't follow the theory of hot oil temps being beneficial to a hemi's longevity.You can bypass the acids and condensation in the crankcase with shorter oil change intervals,you can't offset the wear and tear on the cam/lifters or rod bearings that a hotter oil temp imparts by doing shorter oil change intervals,especially if you're working the hell out of the motor towing,or you like to push the skinny pedal to the floor every once inawhile and hear that hemi roar

 

[stevenram]

Newbie question, are you guys reading these numbers from the steering wheel buttons? I only get a gauge, must be doing something wrong

 

[69GWC]

Newbie question, are you guys reading these numbers from the steering wheel buttons? I only get a gauge, must be doing something wrong

Yes scroll through the list.

 

[RedSRT4Me]

Tried to snap a pic of my temps before coming home. My efan has taken a crap on my. I have a new one I'm installing tomorrow. Don't buy the TYC fan. Mine didn't last a year.

Dorman is up next.

 

[crackerjack1957]

Tried to snap a pic of my temps before coming home. My efan has taken a crap on my. I have a new one I'm installing tomorrow. Don't buy the TYC fan. Mine didn't last a year.

Dorman is up next.

View attachment 211692

Factory fan motor will work on that TYC fan if you still have original.

 

[RedSRT4Me]

I already purchased another from Dorman. Only $100 but I do have my factory fan if this one goes bad.

 

[pacofortacos]

Just by paying attention to the cam/lifter issues,it seems hot oil and a light oil ,like 5W-20 contribute to cam and lifter failures way more then a cooler oil temp and thicker oil do.Gonna have to say I disagree with your oil temp theories,you run your oil temps high if you want,me i'll try and keep my oil temps under 200F,and i'll lay odds the cam in my truck lives a happier life then your cam,plus the fact I like a thicker oil film between the upper half of the rod bearings and crank to offset the loads imparted to the upper rod bearings every time the plug fires and forces the piston down. You're not taking into account the loads imparted to the crank and rod bearings with a thinner oil film.So we'll have to agree to disagree on this,as I don't follow the theory of hot oil temps being beneficial to a hemi's longevity.You can bypass the acids and condensation in the crankcase with shorter oil change intervals,you can't offset the wear and tear on the cam/lifters or rod bearings that a hotter oil temp imparts by doing shorter oil change intervals,especially if you're working the hell out of the motor towing,or you like to push the skinny pedal to the floor every once inawhile and hear that hemi roar

I really don't disagree with this, esp. the last part, which is why I run a combo of oil.
I can't run pure 5w-30, my truck just doesn't like it on startup. Even at 3 qts of 5w-30 & the rest 5w-20 it isn't happy.

A decent percentage of Ram 1500 owners aren't enthusiasts, they run short trips often and go by the factory OCI to change the oil. Neither of which are good for longevity IMO . Under these conditions, you have to get rid of the moisture to keep acids under control AND get every mpg for CAFE that you can.
But the long OCI isn't meant to achieve longevity and it seems many don't grasp that - it is meant to surpass the factory warranty (by a little) and satisfy JD Powers low cost of ownership metric.

I am actually surprised they haven't gone with European spec oil and 15k-20k mile oil changes yet.
Unless the cost of the better filters and oil are more than the cost of the paper filter and blend oil at 2 changes vs. 1 change.

 

[blackbetty14]

If your running decent synthetic oil 240 isn't too much to worry about, but just know whatever that sensor is picking up is not what the components are seeing inside the engine (its a global temp) like a temp sensor in the pan of a trans vs what the temp is actually going through the clutches and coming out of the converter. In an engine the oil is being compressed and heated everywhere like the lifters, rods, mains etc before it comes back to the pan and sits before being sucked up by the pump and filtered/reused over and over again. 240 on that gauge is probably closer to 280 or 300 elsewhere inside the actual engine. The temp your seeing (like pan temp) is the "general" temp of the engine oil and more than likely the coolest temp that oil is seeing unless your running an external oil cooler. Normal oil temp should be 215-220*F to evaporate moisture out of the oil, 240 is elevated but can be considered normal depending on load and ambient temps, personally a full synthetic should handle that temp fine but doesn't meant I would want to see more than that.

 

[Wild one]

If your running decent synthetic oil 240 isn't too much to worry about, but just know whatever that sensor is picking up is not what the components are seeing inside the engine (its a global temp) like a temp sensor in the pan of a trans vs what the temp is actually going through the clutches and coming out of the converter. In an engine the oil is being compressed and heated everywhere like the lifters, rods, mains etc before it comes back to the pan and sits before being sucked up by the pump and filtered/reused over and over again. 240 on that gauge is probably closer to 280 or 300 elsewhere inside the actual engine. The temp your seeing (like pan temp) is the "general" temp of the engine oil and more than likely the coolest temp that oil is seeing unless your running an external oil cooler. Normal oil temp should be 215-220*F to evaporate moisture out of the oil, 240 is elevated but can be considered normal depending on load and ambient temps, personally a full synthetic should handle that temp fine but doesn't meant I would want to see more than that.

The oil handling the temp isn't an issue,it's the difference in the thickness of the oil film and strength of that oil film to handle the shock loads applied to the upper bearing halves. The hotter the oil the thinner the oil film and the strength it has to handle shock loads. Shorter oil change intervals combats moisture build up,but they don't combat the issues concerning the oils film strength

 

[eddie046]

need a lil help Pls... I have 18 ram 5.7l my engine oil is always higher than coolant and trans oil yesterday i did a lil wot it shot up to 240deg.. cruising normal rpm stays at around 220-225deg

Its hot out here already deleted the louvers infront of the rad and deleted the thermostat..

Is there another thermostat somewhere????

These engines run hot by design. I'd definitely reinstall the thermostat. You are likely to generate a whole host of error codes by removing it and if you are still under warranty they will probably use that as an excuse to not repair something.