392 Swap - High Oil Temps - What Would You Do?

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1SLwLS1

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So I got it hooked up this past Friday and I got it done with two wrenches but probably won't try that again given the choice. I had 8 fittings to install, 2 60-degrees and 6 straight fittings. The 60-degree fittings were pretty easy due to the larger landing but I rounded 2 of the first straight fittings until I contorted my body in a more efficient/stable manner. The straight fittings have such a small, narrow landing, it made it a bit difficult. Either way, she is hooked up now.

I didn't have to remove the deflectors on the grill as positioning with my brackets was fairly limited but I can always move it later and chose the easy route for now. I wanted to see how well it performs with the sport grill before opting for the honeycomb grill. This morning, a bit warmer than previous mornings, I peaked at 210F on the 90MPH cruise on the freeway, probably would've been 220F+ with old cooler setup, but with the RP filter, pressure cruising was 59-60 PSI at that temperature, compared to around 53-54 PSI with the previous cooler setup. Idle once warm never fell below 48-49 PSI, and the temperature fell much quicker once I moved away from freeway speeds/RPM. She was hovering around 195F before reaching the freeway on the country backroads (60ish MPH) and once on the FM roads after the freeway (60-65 MPH with traffic lights), she was around 200F. I didn't go WOT at all but at one point I did reach about 4800 RPM and had 68 PSI of oil pressure so I am much happier with the RP filters and larger AN lines, much less pressure drop at RPM. Before at WOT I had about 63 PSI when hot with the cooler. I will see how it is this afternoon with higher temperatures, more traffic, and typically heavier load for the real comparison results - I will make a new table tomorrow.

I also ran the lines and mounted the cooler in a position where I could relatively easily lower it for accurate oil level measurement. Since the cooler is mounted with the inlet/outlet on it's side, the cooler slowly drains back to the pan and I was able to fill the cooler by running it for 5 minutes, lower the oil cooler below the pan, shut off the truck, make sure the dipstick was full to the normal indicated mark, then re-install the cooler, wait a while and find the new level. It's at the first bend in the factory dipstick about an inch or so above the factory full mark.

As for the filter, I had 3 more 20-820 oil filters so I bought both threads (M22x1.5 & 3/4"-16) for the remote filter mount and started with the M22x1.5 to use up existing inventory. I have 2 30-8A filters and the 3/4"-16 filter mount ready to install once I exhaust the existing inventory.

I am really impressed with the -10AN lines and RP filters as the pressure is so much better with these items, the small fram filter just had too much pressure drop and at WOT I think the -8AN lines were just too small. I don't want to count my chickens before they hatch but if these pressures continue and probably improve slightly with the larger filter, I will forgo the hellcat oil pump and stick with this setup as-is. I usually pay more for quality products but have been frugal lately as we are building and its so stupid how much we are paying now vs what we could've been paying before had everything gone to plan. Anyhow, buy once, cry once, don't forget, even though I sometimes do. I am also excited for the amount of shop towels that will be saved with the new filter location and how clean the top of the rack and crossmember will stay.

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danielmid

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That looks killer, and that is a huge cooler! Those are good results, I'm happy to see them. Interesting about the drain back also, I guess I had assumed the thermostat unit would keep the cooler from draining.

Only thing I might suggest is to add some AN clamps for the lines running up to the cooler to keep them from being floppy, even if you can only get 1 or 2 on, something like these:
61lK3zE50oL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
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That looks killer, and that is a huge cooler! Those are good results, I'm happy to see them. Interesting about the drain back also, I guess I had assumed the thermostat unit would keep the cooler from draining.

Only thing I might suggest is to add some AN clamps for the lines running up to the cooler to keep them from being floppy, even if you can only get 1 or 2 on, something like these:
View attachment 517867
That's not a bad suggestion, they are quite heavy and can put a load on the o-ring adapter fittings into the cooler, already had hell tightening those and trying to keep them from un-tightening the flare-oring adapters.
 
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That looks killer, and that is a huge cooler! Those are good results, I'm happy to see them. Interesting about the drain back also, I guess I had assumed the thermostat unit would keep the cooler from draining.

Only thing I might suggest is to add some AN clamps for the lines running up to the cooler to keep them from being floppy, even if you can only get 1 or 2 on, something like these:
View attachment 517867
For the drain back, since thermostat allows around 10% flow all the time, it will drain back in the this position.

I have considered something like this but I wanted one I could temporarily open to allow drain back during oil changes, or I could have simply mounted the cooler with both connections on top and never get drain back either. That is a problem for down the road, haha.
 

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That's not a bad suggestion, they are quite heavy and can put a load on the o-ring adapter fittings into the cooler, already had hell tightening those and trying to keep them from un-tightening the flare-oring adapters.
Might be tough with the way you have the lines run, but you could also do a longer bolt through the clamp to secure the lines to the shroud or the frame or whatever also.
 
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Might be tough with the way you have the lines run, but you could also do a longer bolt through the clamp to secure the lines to the shroud or the frame or whatever also.

I have riddled that radiator support with rivnuts, I could probably find one and make good use of it.
 

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So I got it hooked up this past Friday and I got it done with two wrenches but probably won't try that again given the choice. I had 8 fittings to install, 2 60-degrees and 6 straight fittings. The 60-degree fittings were pretty easy due to the larger landing but I rounded 2 of the first straight fittings until I contorted my body in a more efficient/stable manner. The straight fittings have such a small, narrow landing, it made it a bit difficult. Either way, she is hooked up now.

I didn't have to remove the deflectors on the grill as positioning with my brackets was fairly limited but I can always move it later and chose the easy route for now. I wanted to see how well it performs with the sport grill before opting for the honeycomb grill. This morning, a bit warmer than previous mornings, I peaked at 210F on the 90MPH cruise on the freeway, probably would've been 220F+ with old cooler setup, but with the RP filter, pressure cruising was 59-60 PSI at that temperature, compared to around 53-54 PSI with the previous cooler setup. Idle once warm never fell below 48-49 PSI, and the temperature fell much quicker once I moved away from freeway speeds/RPM. She was hovering around 195F before reaching the freeway on the country backroads (60ish MPH) and once on the FM roads after the freeway (60-65 MPH with traffic lights), she was around 200F. I didn't go WOT at all but at one point I did reach about 4800 RPM and had 68 PSI of oil pressure so I am much happier with the RP filters and larger AN lines, much less pressure drop at RPM. Before at WOT I had about 63 PSI when hot with the cooler. I will see how it is this afternoon with higher temperatures, more traffic, and typically heavier load for the real comparison results - I will make a new table tomorrow.

I also ran the lines and mounted the cooler in a position where I could relatively easily lower it for accurate oil level measurement. Since the cooler is mounted with the inlet/outlet on it's side, the cooler slowly drains back to the pan and I was able to fill the cooler by running it for 5 minutes, lower the oil cooler below the pan, shut off the truck, make sure the dipstick was full to the normal indicated mark, then re-install the cooler, wait a while and find the new level. It's at the first bend in the factory dipstick about an inch or so above the factory full mark.

As for the filter, I had 3 more 20-820 oil filters so I bought both threads (M22x1.5 & 3/4"-16) for the remote filter mount and started with the M22x1.5 to use up existing inventory. I have 2 30-8A filters and the 3/4"-16 filter mount ready to install once I exhaust the existing inventory.

I am really impressed with the -10AN lines and RP filters as the pressure is so much better with these items, the small fram filter just had too much pressure drop and at WOT I think the -8AN lines were just too small. I don't want to count my chickens before they hatch but if these pressures continue and probably improve slightly with the larger filter, I will forgo the hellcat oil pump and stick with this setup as-is. I usually pay more for quality products but have been frugal lately as we are building and its so stupid how much we are paying now vs what we could've been paying before had everything gone to plan. Anyhow, buy once, cry once, don't forget, even though I sometimes do. I am also excited for the amount of shop towels that will be saved with the new filter location and how clean the top of the rack and crossmember will stay.

View attachment 517860
View attachment 517861
View attachment 517862
View attachment 517863
View attachment 517864
View attachment 517865
View attachment 517866
That looks really good. I've never had much luck building lines on the floor either,i'm impressed with how good they turned out though.
 
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That looks really good. I've never had much luck building lines on the floor either,i'm impressed with how good they turned out though.
Thanks, I’m honestly very surprised. It’s been like 10 years since I’ve built AN lines, much less without my typical shop setup. Very relieved.

Definitely going to have to find the honeycomb grill setup, the radiator did not like the giant HEX heating up the air even further and taking over 1/2 of the main air flow. ECT was up to around 203F while EOT stayed under 215F with much warmer ambient of 90+F. I’ll review the log in the AM and make a table.
 
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Thanks, I’m honestly very surprised. It’s been like 10 years since I’ve built AN lines, much less without my typical shop setup. Very relieved.

Definitely going to have to find the honeycomb grill setup, the radiator did not like the giant HEX heating up the air even further and taking over 1/2 of the main air flow. ECT was up to around 203F while EOT stayed under 215F with much Warner ambient of 90+F. I’ll review the log in the AM and make a table.
At one point in time,i was seriously thinking of opening the holes up in the sport grill by slotting a bunch of them together,but then found somebody who wanted to swap their honeycomb inserts instead. I wasn't a big fan of the chrome slats,so i was more then happy to make the trade.
 
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Yea I’m using this as an excuse for some aesthetic change as well, the chrome has not aged well.
 

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Yea I’m using this as an excuse for some aesthetic change as well, the chrome has not aged well.
If you have a local Ram facebook page,try putting an ad up,and see if you can find somebody who'll swap you inserts.If the sport grills are hard to come by in your area,you might even be able to negotiate some cash to,lol
 
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I just found a brand new mopar one on eBay for $184 plus free shipping. Maybe I’ll post the sport inserts for sale on the hipo Ram FB pages afterwards to recoup.
 
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Here is my table below, mind you previous results have been with ambient highs in the 80-85 range while yesterday the ambient high was over 90F.

The no cooler setup utilized a RP 20-820 (large) oil filter. The old cooler setup utilized a Derale sandwich plate with Fram XG10060 (small) oil filter. The new cooler setup utilizes a remote mount thermostatic single filter housing (180-185F) with a RP 20-820 (large) oil filter. In about 4-5 months and 10,000 miles, I will update with the 30-8A (jumbo) oil filter.

The two tables below contain the same data, I just grouped setups in the first table and grouped attributes in the second table.

Condition (Ambient 60-80F)​
EOT w/out Cooler (F)​
OP w/out Cooler (PSIG)​
ECT w/out Cooler (F)​
EOT w/old Cooler (F)​
OP w/old Cooler (PSIG)​
ECT w/old Cooler (F)​
EOT w/new Cooler (F)​
OP w/new Cooler (PSIG)​
ECT w/new Cooler (F)​
Cold Idle (1000+ RPM)​
Ambient​
67​
Ambient​
Ambient​
63​
Ambient​
Ambient​
63​
Ambient​
Cold Cruise (1500-2000 RPM)​
<140​
65​
<185​
<140​
59​
<185​
<140​
65​
<185​
Warm Idle (800-850 RPM)​
185​
55​
185​
185​
49​
185​
185​
52​
185​
Warm Cruise (1500-2500 RPM)​
185-215​
62​
185-200​
185-200​
53​
185​
185-200​
59​
185-190​
Warm WOT (6500+RPM)​
185-215​
75​
185​
185-200​
67​
185​
185-200​
68​
185-195​
Hot Idle (800-900 RPM)​
240-250​
45​
195-205​
220-230​
45​
185-190​
200-215​
49​
190-200​
Hot Cruise (2000-2500 RPM)​
240-250​
59​
195-205​
220-230​
52​
185-190​
200-215​
58​
205​
Hot WOT (6500+RPM)​
240-250​
72​
200+​
235​
60-62​
185-190​
215​
67​
200-205​

Condition (Ambient 60-80F)​
EOT w/out Cooler (F)​
EOT w/old Cooler (F)​
EOT w/new Cooler (F)​
OP w/out Cooler (PSIG)​
OP w/old Cooler (PSIG)​
OP w/new Cooler (PSIG)​
ECT w/out Cooler (F)​
ECT w/old Cooler (F)​
ECT w/new Cooler (F)​
Cold Idle (1000+ RPM)​
Ambient​
Ambient​
Ambient​
67​
63​
63​
Ambient​
Ambient​
Ambient​
Cold Cruise (1500-2000 RPM)​
<140​
<140​
<140​
65​
59​
65​
<185​
<185​
<185​
Warm Idle (800-850 RPM)​
185​
185​
185​
55​
49​
52​
185​
185​
185​
Warm Cruise (1500-2500 RPM)​
185-215​
185-200​
185-200​
62​
53​
59​
185-200​
185​
185-190​
Warm WOT (6500+RPM)​
185-215​
185-200​
185-200​
75​
67​
68​
185​
185​
185-195​
Hot Idle (800-900 RPM)​
240-250​
220-230​
200-215​
45​
45​
49​
195-205​
185-190​
190-200​
Hot Cruise (2000-2500 RPM)​
240-250​
220-230​
200-215​
59​
52​
58​
195-205​
185-190​
205​
Hot WOT (6500+RPM)​
240-250​
235​
215​
72​
60-62​
67​
200+​
185-190​
200-205​
 

danielmid

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Here is my table below, mind you previous results have been with ambient highs in the 80-85 range while yesterday the ambient high was over 90F.

The no cooler setup utilized a RP 20-820 (large) oil filter. The old cooler setup utilized a Derale sandwich plate with Fram XG10060 (small) oil filter. The new cooler setup utilizes a remote mount thermostatic single filter housing (180-185F) with a RP 20-820 (large) oil filter. In about 4-5 months and 10,000 miles, I will update with the 30-8A (jumbo) oil filter.

The two tables below contain the same data, I just grouped setups in the first table and grouped attributes in the second table.

Condition (Ambient 60-80F)​
EOT w/out Cooler (F)​
OP w/out Cooler (PSIG)​
ECT w/out Cooler (F)​
EOT w/old Cooler (F)​
OP w/old Cooler (PSIG)​
ECT w/old Cooler (F)​
EOT w/new Cooler (F)​
OP w/new Cooler (PSIG)​
ECT w/new Cooler (F)​
Cold Idle (1000+ RPM)​
Ambient​
67​
Ambient​
Ambient​
63​
Ambient​
Ambient​
63​
Ambient​
Cold Cruise (1500-2000 RPM)​
<140​
65​
<185​
<140​
59​
<185​
<140​
65​
<185​
Warm Idle (800-850 RPM)​
185​
55​
185​
185​
49​
185​
185​
52​
185​
Warm Cruise (1500-2500 RPM)​
185-215​
62​
185-200​
185-200​
53​
185​
185-200​
59​
185-190​
Warm WOT (6500+RPM)​
185-215​
75​
185​
185-200​
67​
185​
185-200​
68​
185-195​
Hot Idle (800-900 RPM)​
240-250​
45​
195-205​
220-230​
45​
185-190​
200-215​
49​
190-200​
Hot Cruise (2000-2500 RPM)​
240-250​
59​
195-205​
220-230​
52​
185-190​
200-215​
58​
205​
Hot WOT (6500+RPM)​
240-250​
72​
200+​
235​
60-62​
185-190​
215​
67​
200-205​

Condition (Ambient 60-80F)​
EOT w/out Cooler (F)​
EOT w/old Cooler (F)​
EOT w/new Cooler (F)​
OP w/out Cooler (PSIG)​
OP w/old Cooler (PSIG)​
OP w/new Cooler (PSIG)​
ECT w/out Cooler (F)​
ECT w/old Cooler (F)​
ECT w/new Cooler (F)​
Cold Idle (1000+ RPM)​
Ambient​
Ambient​
Ambient​
67​
63​
63​
Ambient​
Ambient​
Ambient​
Cold Cruise (1500-2000 RPM)​
<140​
<140​
<140​
65​
59​
65​
<185​
<185​
<185​
Warm Idle (800-850 RPM)​
185​
185​
185​
55​
49​
52​
185​
185​
185​
Warm Cruise (1500-2500 RPM)​
185-215​
185-200​
185-200​
62​
53​
59​
185-200​
185​
185-190​
Warm WOT (6500+RPM)​
185-215​
185-200​
185-200​
75​
67​
68​
185​
185​
185-195​
Hot Idle (800-900 RPM)​
240-250​
220-230​
200-215​
45​
45​
49​
195-205​
185-190​
190-200​
Hot Cruise (2000-2500 RPM)​
240-250​
220-230​
200-215​
59​
52​
58​
195-205​
185-190​
205​
Hot WOT (6500+RPM)​
240-250​
235​
215​
72​
60-62​
67​
200+​
185-190​
200-205​
I think you're right on about the airflow being the next hurdle. For a test you could always do a back to back test run with grill/no grill and see how the temps react to more air.

I just did the same swap from Sport chrome to black honeycomb, watch the Boosted Motorsport video on the grill swap, heat gun and a trim tool and it was super fast and easy.

 
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I think you're right on about the airflow being the next hurdle. For a test you could always do a back to back test run with grill/no grill and see how the temps react to more air.

I just did the same swap from Sport chrome to black honeycomb, watch the Boosted Motorsport video on the grill swap, heat gun and a trim tool and it was super fast and easy.


I may do that and just take the sport inserts out while leaving the main grill in place with the new position, especially since the eBay vendor just pulled the bait and switch on the grill. The listing shows 10 available but they messaged me saying they don't know when it will come in to their distribution center and offered a non-OE at a discount. The next cheapest option is another $75 through Rock Auto. So I will probably try and pull the sport inserts out and see how it goes.
 

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I may do that and just take the sport inserts out while leaving the main grill in place with the new position, especially since the eBay vendor just pulled the bait and switch on the grill. The listing shows 10 available but they messaged me saying they don't know when it will come in to their distribution center and offered a non-OE at a discount. The next cheapest option is another $75 through Rock Auto. So I will probably try and pull the sport inserts out and see how it goes.
If you watch John's video (Boosted) once you pop a grill clip,use a plastic trim tool or a thin piece of plastic pushed between the grill shell and insert,so it doesn't try to re-latch itself when you move over to the next clip
 
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If you watch John's video (Boosted) once you pop a grill clip,use a plastic trim tool or a thin piece of plastic pushed between the grill shell and insert,so it doesn't try to re-latch itself when you move over to the next clip

Yes sir, these are almost magnetic. I remember struggling at first when I had to have my grill repainted a few years ago.

What is yall's thoughts about removing the side deflectors? I know you suggested removing them earlier but is there some unforeseen benefit that I am overlooking? As it stands now, the inside width of both deflectors seems to be about the width of the condenser/radiator so if I removed them, I would be losing airflow as that previously covered area would just flow over the radiator overflow and/or washer fluid tank instead of being directed through the radiator. If I left them, then I would be channeling all of the grill area through the radiator, right? Or is just aesthetics with the much more visible honeycombs? I don't have a legmaker intake or anything.
 

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Yes sir, these are almost magnetic. I remember struggling at first when I had to have my grill repainted a few years ago.

What is yall's thoughts about removing the side deflectors? I know you suggested removing them earlier but is there some unforeseen benefit that I am overlooking? As it stands now, the inside width of both deflectors seems to be about the width of the condenser/radiator so if I removed them, I would be losing airflow as that previously covered area would just flow over the radiator overflow and/or washer fluid tank instead of being directed through the radiator. If I left them, then I would be channeling all of the grill area through the radiator, right? Or is just aesthetics with the much more visible honeycombs? I don't have a legmaker intake or anything.
I left my deflectors on when I switched to the honeycomb, I didn't see an advantage to removing them and losing that air focus.
 

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Yes sir, these are almost magnetic. I remember struggling at first when I had to have my grill repainted a few years ago.

What is yall's thoughts about removing the side deflectors? I know you suggested removing them earlier but is there some unforeseen benefit that I am overlooking? As it stands now, the inside width of both deflectors seems to be about the width of the condenser/radiator so if I removed them, I would be losing airflow as that previously covered area would just flow over the radiator overflow and/or washer fluid tank instead of being directed through the radiator. If I left them, then I would be channeling all of the grill area through the radiator, right? Or is just aesthetics with the much more visible honeycombs? I don't have a legmaker intake or anything.
I originally took them out,and then put them back in,i didn't notice any differance in temp with or with-out them.But in your case,if you do decide to move your oil cooler over,i'd probably remove the one on the side you move your cooler to.
 
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Engine
Hemi 6.4
I finally ordered and installed the new honeycomb grille inserts this past week. The results at first seemed not all that great, other than aesthetics as the stock sport grille has not aged well. But after truly looking at the numbers and pushing it this morning, the results are a bit better than they initially appeared. When cruising on the highway in the AM with cooler temperatures, the ECT always ran at 185F while the EOT got up to maybe 206-210F after the strenuous 90MPH cruise. In the afternoons, ECT would be anywhere from 192-200+F and EOT usually 208-212F range, maybe a bit warmer if I had some road rage. Now with the honeycomb grille, the mornings only change was a few degrees drop of EOT, maybe in the 203F range, ECT was and is constant at 185F. In the afternoons though, I noticed a greater change. My ECT now doesn't go above 188F and my EOT is around 206F, maybe 208F briefly if I have to WOT pass someone camping in the left lane. These peak numbers are always quoted during/after the strenuous 90MPH cruise portion, everything always cools down once I get on the back roads with 65MPH average speeds. This brick, with these piston squirters, and these 3.92 rear gears, is a chore running at sustained speeds in this Texas heat.

Even more impressive was this morning's commute. This morning was a morning for assholes, myself included. Everyone felt the need to be extremely aggressive, myself included, and I was driving the wheels off of this thing, doing things I wouldn't do in my much newer and much more advanced-handling mustang. I am talking several WOT stints of winding out several gears, well over a dozen in a short period of time with no cool down times and the ECT never got above 190F and even then it was only momentarily, the EOT was running 208-212F and peaked momentarily at 216F, which for how I was driving, is a testament to the setup of these heat exchangers. Hell even the 8HP70's fluid reached 135F, which runs full time to the standard 6 speed condenser cooler, which usually doesn't ever get above 120F.

Anyhow, this is another testimony for how great the honeycomb grille flows over the more restrictive sport grille.
 
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