Opinions

[thumperpa]

Need some opinions I have chosen to buy my oil at local Wally World and mine doesn't carry PUP just PP so my personal choices are PP, mobile1, RP I'm not interested any other brands Wally carries and at this point I don't want to be ordering redline i have to make a trip to summit in the following months and if redline is the be all end all I'll buy a case or two when I'm there. So with that info what do you guys think is my best choice Wally World oil oh and I already have a couple RP 10-48 filters so I have the filter figured out I'm only asking opinions cause I'm tired of reading all the garbage out there and trying to weed through the BS and the real world experience input so I figure there are some very intelligent individuals on here (and patient) that have been helping me out with all my ?'s
Thanks to all who keep helping me out

 

[Hootbro]

Those are all good brands, just pick one and run with it. 99% of oil selection is just picking one that meets the needed specifications, the rest is just ancillary anecdotal opinion.

 

[Tray Burge]

Mobil 1

 

[Etroze86]

Bang for buck and keeping under 5k oil change intervals PYB would be best bang for buck. If you have a local amsoil dealer I would also go check out the XL series as it is a heck of a good oil for I think like a buck more than the PYB. That's my 2 cents.

 

[clh1220]

Pennzoil platinum is recommended. I get mine at advance auto parts, and it comes with a filter And rebate. I have got it at Wal-Mart TOO.

 

[jon0m0berry]

I use Valvoline in all my cars for the past 7 years and no issues. there are better oils out there but in my opinion Valvoline will get the job done just as well and cost less then most name brand oils

 

[Burla]

5 different answers

I suggest using PQIA UOA's to find an oil that has additives that are good for your hemi, and find out what those additives are by doing your own research. Anything else is just taking someone's opinion on it and everyone has a different opinion. What do I think may be good for the Hemi, Low Noack, High Calcium, Maybe high zinc, Moly, maybe group 4 or 5 base stocks, etc. I am not specifically talking to your thumper as we already spoke on it, but anyone selecting an oil. I never want to hear I buy this because my daddy and his daddy used it and that is good enough for me. The thing is now at this time there are incredible resources for guys to select the best oil for them, trade journals, oil websites, and the newest player is PQIA. Most oils are very good and you will never know the difference, but if you want one that has everything you may want in an oil, there are only a few. Even though I run some top dog **** in my truck, it is hard for me to pass up the costco deal on Mobil 1. Maybe it doesn't have everything I want, but it is good enough to run in any truck. I wonder if I couldn't have similar results as I get just by using 30 weight mobil 1, if so I could have saved 50 bucks or more an oil change.

 

[SlowRoller]

Ahhhh, another oil thread seeking a singular answer,,,

FWIW, given your 3 candidates, I'd say use whichever one makes you warm and fuzzy. You truck certainly won't know the difference.

 

[Sillygoose]

i ordered 2 five quart jugs of the ultra plat off walmart.com
2 jugs, free shipping, came to $60.
i already have a stockpile of RP filters

 

[thumperpa]

Hey thanks man great advice do you have anymore great words of wisdom to pass down of wise one

 

[Burla]

Once you pick an oil, consider doing a UOA for 35 bucks at the 7500 mark to gauge how long the tbn is holding up, and to see how the fuel level is doing. Those two things will tell you how your oil is doing, minus some crazy wear numbers or something badly wrong with an engine. If you want a long oil change like 15k, consider Redline or Amsoil, it will pay for itself. More important then any oil is making sure your pcv is working, and a catch can will likely be the best way to make sure it is working. That is all the free info I have, the rest I'll charge you a fair hourly rate

 

[thumperpa]

Once you pick an oil, consider doing a UOA for 35 bucks at the 7500 mark to gauge how long the tbn is holding up, and to see how the fuel level is doing. Those two things will tell you how your oil is doing, minus some crazy wear numbers or something badly wrong with an engine. If you want a long oil change like 15k, consider Redline or Amsoil, it will pay for itself. More important then any oil is making sure your pcv is working, and a catch can will likely be the best way to make sure it is working. That is all the free info I have, the rest I'll charge you a fair hourly rate

Thank you sir I much appreciate the info I've been reading up on everything you pointed me to your a stand up guy my friend. And I checked into the blackstone labs I'm all over it can't wait to see the info I'm going with mobile one extended performance with the RP filter

 

[blackbetty14]

My advice. Run what u can afford. I don't care about oils that last 10-15k. Last thing u want is oil floating around longer than it should be. Run the yellow PP as it has a pretty high moly count and run a decent filter (purolator pure 1, Bosch, Mobil etc) change it at 3-5k and repeat. I'm a believer of more frequent changes vs longer intervals as if anything is in the oil or filter I want it out sooner than later.

That being said I'm about to do a Mobil 1 syn and mobil M1-113 5w20 oil change (it was on sale) and I'll change it in 7k. I run synthetics for 7k and non syntethics for 3-5k. Also depends on the driving habits.

One of the best investments I have ever done is run a magnetic filter wrap/guard on my oil filters and use a $30 oil filter cutter to peak inside to see ways going on with the motor. U'd be surprised how much **** gets past the filter and the magnet catches and holds to the side of the filter case. That **** floats around in the oil which is why I change my oil frequently.

 

[SlowRoller]

Women fret over purses, shoes, and what color to paint their nails. Men fret over oil and filters.

I drive a bone stock truck. My oil and filter cost just under $14 total. I change when the OLM indicator reach's 20%.

No 'hemi tick'. No oil consumption. Just miles of smiles.

As always,,,,,,,,,, YMMV.

 

[Burla]

And when your engine fails someday, it will have failed just because it was it's time, it is an argument that can't win, you can always argue the other side. But one thing is for sure, if you use the best oil you can and your engine fails, you at least know it is not an oil related early failure. Run a cheap oil like many guys here have and have an engine fail at 70k like a few guys here have, you will always wonder what if I ran that Penzoil or Redline with a Royal Purple filter.

The old saying, the cheap comes out expensive.

 

[SyN]

Short and Sweet-->PP & follow the OLM...

 

[Hootbro]

And when your engine fails someday, it will have failed just because it was it's time, it is an argument that can't win, you can always argue the other side. But one thing is for sure, if you use the best oil you can and your engine fails, you at least know it is not an oil related early failure. Run a cheap oil like many guys here have and have an engine fail at 70k like a few guys here have, you will always wonder what if I ran that Penzoil or Redline with a Royal Purple filter.

The old saying, the cheap comes out expensive.

Got any links to these so called failures and use of "cheap oil"?

 

[Burla]

Got any links to these so called failures and use of "cheap oil"?

So Called, lol. The forum has examples of early engine failure, if you ran a top shelf oil, you would know it was something other then oil quality. That is what I was trying to say. If you were running a top shelf oil and your engine fails, it isn't like you are going to say maybe if I was running the cheapest conventional oil I can find, maybe this wouldn't have happened. But visa versa is true, many additives and other benefits from top shelf oil can possibly save you from early engine failure, but there is no tangible benefit from running cheapy conventional oil other then cost.

My truck is a perfect example, with factory fill oil my truck knocked like hell, horrible Hemi tick, I switch oils and now it purrs. It is very possible I could end up with a smoothed cam just like many others here have, but if that happens I know it isn't because of the oil but rather something else, as the oil has benefited the engine unless you think engine knock is a wonderful thing. Now if I wasn't running good oil and my engine knocked til the cam smoother, then I would have wondered, what if I just ran a top shelf oil. All I have to say on the matter.

I don't save a bunch of links, but you can search for the smoothed cams some guys been having, I'm not searching all night but I'll try and find one.

 

[thumperpa]

Pup

Well I thought I had it all figured out and was going to use mobile1 extended performance. Wrong I had to take the truck to the dealer for some service and recalls I've been putting off as they were just not super important. My local dealer is a joke and I have a good friend that is a manager at the dealer I bought the truck from and it's about 45 minutes from my place. While I was there I stopped at local Autozone to grab a few things and they had the PUP that nobody local has and they had it on clearance for $6 a quart plus $2 per quart mail in rebate so I bought the last 14 quarts they had there and they had it on clearance cause they are no longer going to stock it so I've got 2 oil changes to get to summit and get my redline. So I finally made my mind up and got myself oil

 

[Burla]

Here you go Hoot, a smoothed Cam from a guy who ran a oil without Moly and a Fram filter as Burla has been saying is so important from day one.

I wonder if that was you, if you would have regretted not running high moly redline like I've been saying from day one. Is it still possible he would have had a smoothed cam with Redline, of course it is. But he'll never know if it could have been avoided because when the oil stops running the cam sits there dry. When you start your truck the cam hits the lifter roller, and it is reasonable to think this happens many times before the oil has had a chance to get there. Moly is the element that "could" have prevented this. Coats the cam and any other metal when the oil isn't there. Also, ester based oil hyper cleans, and it also could have cleaned any possible junk that was in the roller, it is possible sludge stopped that roller as well. Could have been the lifter was sticking at startup because it has no moly as well, cam hits the roller but the lifter doesn't lift, cam smashes roller and begins smoothing cam. This is the environment our trucks live in, I for one would rather face this environment with my best tools, IE my best oil. One with all of the additives that are designed to combat this, as opposed to companies who skimp.

Valvoline was always the number one oil on my chitlist as far and mass marketed oils. Never any moly and flat out dangerous to run next gen in any vehicle if you believe PQIA. Now lessened to an advisory, but PQIA had a warning against this Valvoline product at one time. Doesn't surprise me one bit this is what the guy was running when his cam smoothed, in fact it would have been my first guess w/o even knowing.

The Cheap comes out Expensive.