P305 code is driving me crazy

[Jdennis1989]

Since I’m at it should I replace all lifters or just the bad one. Also where are yall buying these parts from? Up to now I bought from Oreilly for all my parts needs. Everyone keeps saying OEM for lifters and cam shaft. Where would you recommend and what’s the pricing? What I see on Oreilly is $350 for a cam shaft and around $215 per set of lifters.

 

[Wild one]

Since I’m at it should I replace all lifters or just the bad one. Also where are yall buying these parts from? Up to now I bought from Oreilly for all my parts needs. Everyone keeps saying OEM for lifters and cam shaft. Where would you recommend and what’s the pricing? What I see on Oreilly is $350 for a cam shaft and around $215 per set of lifters.

MMX sells a no tune required mds delete cam,and you can get them to put it together with OEM hellcat lifters/cam bolt etc.
Suck it up,it's not gonna be cheap,as you still need head gaskets/head bolts/timing cover gasket /coolant/oil and filter etc. With 175,000 on the truck,you should probably replace the timing chain and it's components to.
You aren't really going to be much under the cost of a brand new crate engine to do the job right,so you might want to consider swapping a brand new engine into it.

5.7 VVT HEMI NO TUNE REQUIRED NSR MDS Performance NA Camshaft 2009-2024 Challenger / Charger / Chrysler / 300c / RAM Truck / Jeep Grand Cherokee / Durango by MMX

5.7 VVT HEMI Performance Camshaft Kit - NA No Tune Required Non MDS by MMX

www.modernmusclextreme.com

5.7L HEMI TRUCK Crate Engine

5.7L HEMI TRUCK Crate Engine

www.modernmusclextreme.com

 

[EdGs]

OE on lifters, absolutely, and yes, replace them all. Besides, the lifter trays are gonna be worn, too, guaranteed.

On mine, in addition to #5 intake lobe being worn more than Fido's butt (thank you for that analogy, @Ken226, I almost choked on my coffee...lol), I also had wear just through the heat treat on BOTH cam lobes for #8 cylinder.


Both lifters for #8 looked and felt good, but after seeing my cam, I'd bet a years pay that they wouldn't have lasted very long.

You're already in there, no sense having to do it again if you choose to repair rather than replace the engine.

I dropped very close to $6k on my repair, including shipping on several orders (I could've probably saved about $800 if I could've gotten everything in one shot and not ordered a couple things I may not have needed).

I did go OE on parts I felt were critical, and I also needed several tools I didn't have, YMMV.

That no-tune setup from MMX looks interesting, not sure what else you have to do with that kit.

You are in the right place for help, the members here are top-notch. They all helped me tremendously.

Wishing you a smooth repair or replace.

 

[04fxdwgi]

Getting rid of the MDS lifters and cam are just one part of it. You could leave the MDS solenoids plugged in (with plugs in galley holes), but not installed in oil galley to fake it out thinking it's still active. But, changing the ECU programming to stop the computer from dropping out the fuel injectors in MDS mode is as important as the other stuff and must be dealt with via a tune.

 

[Jdennis1989]

After much trouble getting the harmonic balancer off, I finally have that off. Having trouble getting both this next piece off and the oil pan. Am I over thinking this in terms of just putting a pry bar to both? I don’t want to warp either on accident

 

[EdGs]

You might have to pry a little (gently) to get the timing cover and oil pan loose (once ALL their associated bolts are removed, of course).

Make sure to remove the dog bone that connects to top of the timing cover to the driver side head.

Once the water pump is off, there should only be like 5 bolts holding the timing cover to the front of the block.

You need to remove the crossmember under the oil pan to remove the oil pan. Two bolts on each side.

My oil pan was stuck on pretty good. Be careful prying so you don't bend anything.

The hamonic balancer should have come off easy with the proper removal tool. What issues did you have and how did you get it off?

 

[Jdennis1989]

You might have to pry a little (gently) to get the timing cover and oil pan loose (once ALL their associated bolts are removed, of course).

Make sure to remove the dog bone that connects to top of the timing cover to the driver side head.

Once the water pump is off, there should only be like 5 bolts holding the timing cover to the front of the block.

You need to remove the crossmember under the oil pan to remove the oil pan. Two bolts on each side.

My oil pan was stuck on pretty good. Be careful prying so you don't bend anything.

The hamonic balancer should have come off easy with the proper removal tool. What issues did you have and how did you get it off?

After a little bit of prying I have the oil pan off. I guess I’m just overthinking it. I’m always afraid I’m gonna damage this stuff. Everything I seem to take off is just stuck and sealed on so hard.

For the harmonic balancer, I rented two different loaner pullers from oreillys and neither would fit the holes. So I ordered this one off Amazon. Still didn’t work, but since I own this one now, I grinded the feet down until I could easily get them in the holes.

 

[Jdennis1989]

Nevermind, I was missing one bolt.

 

[EdGs]

Glad you got it. It is easier with all the pertinent bolts removed......lol. We've all been there.

Being a little afraid is a good thing. It helps one to be careful. Like working with anything dangerous, when you get comfortable, you can get careless.

This is the puller I got. I had to turn the jaws backwards and go in the smaller openings on the balancer

Amazon.com: Harmonic Balancer Damper Pulley Remove Extractor Kit Compatible with Ford, GM, Chrysler, Cadillac, Chevy Trucks, Mitsubishi, Upgraded Version 3 Jaw Puller : Automotive

Amazon.com: Harmonic Balancer Damper Pulley Remove Extractor Kit Compatible with Ford, GM, Chrysler, Cadillac, Chevy Trucks, Mitsubishi, Upgraded Version 3 Jaw Puller : Automotive

www.amazon.com

 

[GeauxinUp]

If I were in your shoes, this is the direction I’d go…

 

[Wild one]

Glad you got it. It is easier with all the pertinent bolts removed......lol. We've all been there.

Being a little afraid is a good thing. It helps one to be careful. Like working with anything dangerous, when you get comfortable, you can get careless.

This is the puller I got. I had to turn the jaws backwards and go in the smaller openings on the balancer

Amazon.com: Harmonic Balancer Damper Pulley Remove Extractor Kit Compatible with Ford, GM, Chrysler, Cadillac, Chevy Trucks, Mitsubishi, Upgraded Version 3 Jaw Puller : Automotive

Amazon.com: Harmonic Balancer Damper Pulley Remove Extractor Kit Compatible with Ford, GM, Chrysler, Cadillac, Chevy Trucks, Mitsubishi, Upgraded Version 3 Jaw Puller : Automotive

www.amazon.com

I just ordered that one Ed,as it's differant then my old puller,and looks like it might be better on the 5.7 balancers.
Damn you,now you got me spending money,i prefer spending other guys money instead of my own

 

[04fxdwgi]

at least at $33 US, it aint much of your money.

 

[EdGs]

I just ordered that one Ed,as it's differant then my old puller,and looks like it might be better on the 5.7 balancers.
Damn you,now you got me spending money,i prefer spending other guys money instead of my own

You're welcome! Glad I could help.

It was @Ken226 that suggested that puller to me, Rick.

Since I'm helping you spend your money, I also have this from years ago when I did the head gaskets on our '02 1500 4.7 Magnum.

I used one of the long studs in the kit when I installed the cam on the Hemi, it gave me something better to hang on to.

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-27306-Harmonic-Balancer-Installer/dp/B01N22CYOE/ref=mp_s_a_1_19?crid=2EYV4D0QPDGKB&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ojaLoOA-vZTuWYOJESNHmg-k8oKYUSV-CUiw59nts87MuQO1FRgKy8hfHlFiCfTYa6DJgQBkdmNkTdAMxe-k62ytfP5g3iUYhrKvzKMxgNUI_eOYlznYBtS3n2gHtDm0rsiqCB5MAmfWaiX1PNkT8PzehBEHT9WdNTep3fp4FDpiuWDe4PkT_WhCyr3AVgQHbdqJeSVmKsDZbbGHkWPYJQ.HcKF38xkVi774wpKKarrVGjpldSdYC_iS7QX2f7aqq8&dib_tag=se&keywords=harmonic+balancer+installer+kit&qid=1765013471&sprefix=harmonic+balancer+installee%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-19

 

[Wild one]

at least at $33 US, it aint much of your money.

Yea but i'm a Canuck,so you basically double that price,aarrgghh

 

[Jdennis1989]

There she is, looks nasty

 

[EdGs]

There she is, looks nasty


View attachment 576723

Damn, that does look nasty.

I think that's #5 exhaust lobe.

Any wear starting on other lobes?

I'm really surprised you didnt have lots of metal on your VVT solenoid screens.

 

[Jdennis1989]

Damn, that does look nasty.

I think that's #5 exhaust lobe.

Any wear starting on other lobes?

first lob on cylinder 5

 

[EdGs]

first lob on cylinder 5

Bet that lifter looks like hell, too.

 

[Jdennis1989]

Ok I am going to attempt putting the new camshaft in tonight along with a new oil pump while I am at it. When I took the timing chain off, I made sure I was at top dead center and I was careful in keeping the chain and these two sprockets in the exact position it was in as I took it off. Now watching someone’s YouTube video, they are saying the marks on the chain need to be where the top and bottom at. That is NOT how it came off my engine though…. So am I overthinking this?

 

[EdGs]

Yes.

Hemi Tech: How to time your VVT Hemi!

Shop MMX: https://modernmusclextreme.com/c-398-mmx-hemi-camshaft-kits.aspx

youtu.be

The chain is longer on the tensioner side.

When the #1 piston is at TDC the crank sprocket mark will be at ~5:30


The mark on the cam sprocket needs to be at 12:00

The crank sprocket mark is at ~5:30